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Thread: Eaton M122h 3L m50

  1. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greenday694 View Post
    I just received the NGK 2668 plugs in the mail yesterday. And oil and filter. Have to order those, no place around me sells liqui Molly.
    Now back to the search of finding somebody who can tune my link G4 ECU.


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    RK tunes is some what local.

    Text me later today when you have time .


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  2. #77
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    Even better would be to get rid of the Link and tune the factory ECU, which powers many centrifugal, positive displacement and turbo E36 without issue at power levels exceeding that of the OP.

    Aftermarket ECU are worthwhile for those who need things the stock ECU cannot do and don’t want add on boxes. Traction control, wastegate control, flex fuel, methanol control, high AFR under boost safety shutdown, etc.

  3. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by carcrazyethan View Post
    I wonder if a VMP Performance 2.65l blower would be an option if you wanted to strive for even bigger power on this kit?

    Our kit was designed with the TVS Eaton 2650 in mind, as well as twin screw blowers upto 3L. Remember, if it fits the new Mustang, our kit will support it. You will however have to provide your own blower and send it to our R&D house for some customization to the original kit for the car you want it in, apart from that prices remain the same.

    our biggest thing is still the tuning, we being engineers, not tuners. So tuning is something that is left out to the clients, we have some base maps but again, if someone is putting some of the largest roots blower on to these cars ever designed... a tune is something not far out of sight.
    Last edited by MisterM52; 11-13-2019 at 08:51 PM.

  4. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
    But it was also $7k to $10k for a complete kit with tuning. I think the goal of the M122 kit is to be a budget partial kit. I don’t know how much it would cost to get a kit running perfectly, assuming diy install. Obviously the blower will be used.
    A good point. And don't get me wrong, I really like the basic idea of this kit. These kinds of assessments are a bit relative and there are lots of perspectives on $ per hp value comparisons.
    I was thinking more about the actual design of this kit. Some power figures would help to see what the function vs price comparison actually looks like.

  5. #80
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    Some very good points. I have not ruled out tuning the stock ECU. I still have two or three of them laying around. As well as an ostrich 2 emulator. Since my car is OBD1, and uses the 413 Bosch DME. I would either have to use the emulator or start swapping in chips. And that's only after installing a MAS that can handle 1900 kg per hour or more, with precision and high resolution. Then reduce it down to 256 points.

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  6. #81
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    And I will be more than happy to get my car on a dyno, see what it's making right now, and see what a real tuner can crank it up to.

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  7. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greenday694 View Post
    Some very good points. I have not ruled out tuning the stock ECU. I still have two or three of them laying around. As well as an ostrich 2 emulator. Since my car is OBD1, and uses the 413 Bosch DME. I would either have to use the emulator or start swapping in chips. And that's only after installing a MAS that can handle 1900 kg per hour or more, with precision and high resolution. Then reduce it down to 256 points.

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    The obd1 ECU has been tuned to much more power than you have. A positive displacement blower may be even harder to tune than a turbo but it can be done. The tuners use different hfm, some aftermarket, some ford. My obd2 turbo tune uses a ford hfm and 86 lb injectors, and is good for 750 rwhp on 93 pump plus meth or more with race gas.

  8. #83
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    Jeesh. I should just copy bobs build and be done with it. Lols

  9. #84
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    Any updates on this car?

  10. #85
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    Yepper I believe I finally found a tuner. He mainly does LMP cars, with motec ECU. But might be willing to do mine. Should know something by February. Fingers crossed.

    After weighing out all the pros and cons, I bought the ECS Tuning 6 piston big brake kit for the front. Comes with 325 mm rotors and Brembo, BMW performance 6-piston calipers. Braided stainless steel lines and all the brackets. The only downside is the stock ceramic brake pads. But I can always swap them out for the track. I also picked up a set H&R sway bars. And adjustable links.

    And I also the bought a new driveshaft. I was getting some strange vibrations from the one I have in there. I used the front section from a z3m, onto the stock rear half. After shopping around about getting my driveshaft rebuilt and rebalance, it was going to cost more then buying a new one. Plus I wasn't a big fan of them cutting grooves and to the rear flange to put in a serviceable universal joint.

    Since I decided to use the big brake kit, I got a new set of 18-inch wheels. This time 9 inch wide instead of the 8 I have on there. And so far I bought 2 265 35-18 Nitto nt05 for the rear.

    I just receive all these parts in the last 3 days. First thing I'm going to do is test fit one of the rims on the front and back. The offset is 34. I might need spacers. Then I plan on mounting the 265, and test with them on the front and back. I would really like it if I could use that size on all four corners. But I'm not sure how they will fit in the front.

    After I do the test fit of the wheels, and see if I need spacers or not. I'm going to install the new driveshaft, and a friend of mine is going to weld up brackets so I can add a safety loop in the front and rear. While I'm in there, also going to install the new short throw shifter.

    The sway bars won't arrive until Monday. But we are going to come up with a plan on how to reinforce the sway bar mounting points. I don't want the stiffer bars to pull free from the rear subframe or front frame rail.

    At some point in the middle of this I will install the front brakes. Those will be pretty much a direct swap. I already have the 325 mm, E46 330i brakes on the car.

    Other than that the car is still running very strong. I'm not going to put the new plugs in till the day before the dyno. At which point I plan on doing a compression test, hot and cold. I have over 10,000 miles on this engine. Would like to see how everything is going.

    Also started working on a different routing of the upper radiator hose. Haven't had any coolant problems the way it is, but I never really liked the way it looked. It's functional but not aesthetically pleasing.

    I still have over a month before the local track open up again. So I'm going to take my time and make sure everything is right.

    Keith

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  11. #86
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    Adding spacers won’t help the offset problem in the rear. Spacers will just push the wheel further into the fender, which is already the limiting factor with 41mm offset and any tire bigger than a 255. You will have to either run a lot of negative camber to tilt the tops if the wheels in or heavily roll the rear fenders or both. The fronts have the opposite problem — typically with any tire bigger than 245, you need spacers to get the rim and or tire off the strut. You are starting with 34 offset which is like a 7mm spacer on an ET41 wheel, so you may need none or only a small spacer. You could also cut your arches out and run flares from Hard or another company. What seems to work on the street often rubs on the track.

    You could do remote tuning through someone in the US who knows these ECU and has done positive displacement supercharger tuning for them before and probably get the job done faster and cheaper.

  12. #87
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    Keith I would get in contact with RK tunes.


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  13. #88
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    Or Markert, 22RPD or TRM. TRM has probably the most experience tuning positive displacement superchargers on these motors. Your system might be closer to the last Eurosport kits that used 2.1L units, I think. Member Tanks95 might also have info since he was one of the first to go from the 1.7L to the 2.1L.

  14. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
    Adding spacers won’t help the offset problem in the rear. Spacers will just push the wheel further into the fender, which is already the limiting factor with 41mm offset and any tire bigger than a 255. You will have to either run a lot of negative camber to tilt the tops if the wheels in or heavily roll the rear fenders or both. The fronts have the opposite problem — typically with any tire bigger than 245, you need spacers to get the rim and or tire off the strut. You are starting with 34 offset which is like a 7mm spacer on an ET41 wheel, so you may need none or only a small spacer. You could also cut your arches out and run flares from Hard or another company. What seems to work on the street often rubs on the track.

    You could do remote tuning through someone in the US who knows these ECU and has done positive displacement supercharger tuning for them before and probably get the job done faster and cheaper.
    Right now my wheels are 8 inch wide 255 35-18. 38 offset . Square. This is what I ran on the track. 1.5 degrees negative camber in the rear, 2.2 degrees negative camber in the front.
    I'm honestly not sure if I can get any more rubber in the front. The rear I have over an inch clearance inside and out.
    I haven't tried it, but I'm almost certain that the front tires would rub if I hit a really serious bump at full lock.


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  15. #90
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    I wouldn't run any larger than 255 on an 8 inch wide wheel anyways. My old setup was 8 inch wide and 245 already looked like too much

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  16. #91
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    I’d say roll the front fenders. That should give you a decent amount of clearance


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  17. #92
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    Tires too wide or wheels to thin. Waste of un used tread.

  18. #93
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    I agree. 255 are too much for 8 inch wheels. And I rolled all four a few years ago.

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  19. #94
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    I did test back my new 9 X 18 34 offset Wheels today. Good and bad. They fit perfect on the rear, even have a little room to go out more. They do fit on the front but could use a little more clearance from the strut. The bad part is, there's very little clearance between the spokes on rim and the stock brake calipers. So they definitely will not fit with the 6 piston Brembo calipers. Luckily I never put tires on any of the rims, and only unboxed the one, and was very careful not to make any marks in it. So I will be returning them.

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  20. #95
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    I really didn't care for the gold rivets anyway.

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  21. #96
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    Rear

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  22. #97
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    Run a stickier 245


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  23. #98
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    Buy apex arc8. Light and good clearance for BBK. I have 3 sets.

  24. #99
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    Quick update. By 18 by 9 with 34 offset, look like they would fit very well. Unfortunately the rim design, face of the rim to be exact, set back too far. The backside of the spokes are about 2 mm away from a stock calipers. That is way too close. And since I also bought the 6-piston caliper Brembo kit, they will definitely not fit. Luckily I only unboxed the one wheel and was very careful when test fitting.
    So now I'm back to searching for the right wheel for my car. I would really like to get 265 in the rear and 255 up front. From the measurement I've taken the tires will fit, and have some wiggle room. It's a matter of finding the right wheel width and offset.

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  25. #100
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    I’d give Apex a call see which combo would work best, or go with an over fender/ fender flare setup


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    “If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.”
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