Eaton M122h 3L m50

[Greenday694]

I thought it would be too. But as it turns out, it's pretty much the same pain in the ass as it was stock. Fill it up running with heater on, bleeder valve open, warm up engine, close bleeder valve, top off, let it cool, top off again, open bleeder valve, run engine till warm, rev engine, top off, close bleeder valve, let cool down, restart engine, open bleeder valve, add more, and that's before you even drive it down the road. LOL because you will have to add more after that.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

[GG///M3]

I thought it would be too. But as it turns out, it's pretty much the same pain in the ass as it was stock. Fill it up running with heater on, bleeder valve open, warm up engine, close bleeder valve, top off, let it cool, top off again, open bleeder valve, run engine till warm, rev engine, top off, close bleeder valve, let cool down, restart engine, open bleeder valve, add more, and that's before you even drive it down the road. LOL because you will have to add more after that.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

Switch to the euro overflow coolant tank.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[XnWarden]

FWIW my stock m3 rotors with EBC pads are phenomenal. They suck the speed right out even at +120mph. I dont do track duty, but I do repeated hard laps on the local canyon runs. And I do mean hard.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

[pbonsalb]

Most racers don’t use fancy rotors. Just quality blanks — nondrilled nonslotted — from brembo or Zimmerman since they seem to use higher grade metal than the cheapest rotors. And track pads.

If you really get into the track stuff and want some bling, look for a used 4 or 6 piston front BBK. You can fit larger 2 piece rotors for better heat dissipation and the fixed multi piston calipers have better feel. Most braking force is in front so adding rear multipiston fixed calipers and 2 piece rotors does not do much more but costs a lot more. And you probably should not go drifting using your ebrake if you have delicate 2 piece rear rotors.

[GG///M3]

Most racers don’t use fancy rotors. Just quality blanks — nondrilled nonslotted — from brembo or Zimmerman since they seem to use higher grade metal than the cheapest rotors. And track pads.

If you really get into the track stuff and want some bling, look for a used 4 or 6 piston front BBK. You can fit larger 2 piece rotors for better heat dissipation and the fixed multi piston calipers have better feel. Most braking force is in front so adding rear multipiston fixed calipers and 2 piece rotors does not do much more but costs a lot more. And you probably should not go drifting using your ebrake if you have delicate 2 piece rear rotors.

This.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[pumpkin eater]

How about bleeding the cooling system? It's a pain in the butt even on a stock e36, the way that upper radiator hose loops over the snout of the blower looks from the pictures like it's a new high point in the system. Does it not trap a bunch of air?

In no way should this be taken as negative (I'm here because turbo-ing the M52B28 in RHD E36s is an expensive pain in the rear an I'm exploring options).

But// I reckon this looks like an issue too. If the intake manifold were more like the factory design in how the intake piping connects perpendicular to the motor this would potentially eliminate the need for the vacuum cleaner style radiator hose. Looking at the pictures in car, this flexible hose solution is only needed because of how the charge pipe is feeding into the intake manifold. If you can get this out of the way it'll look a lot cleaner too.

Why can't you use the factory manifold again?

[Greenday694]

I started out trying to use the M50 manifold. Not even close to having enough room. The supercharger can't go any lower, and can't be pushed out any further. Even as it sits right now, the supercharger sets at a slight angle, for clearance. Strut Tower, Hood, ABS unit, alternator, oil filter housing, master cylinder. The charge pipe could be brought up from the right side of the car. You would have to relocate expansion tank, and delete your air conditioning. Back when I was younger I would delete the AC from the beginning. The horsepower gain and weight reduction did not weigh out sitting in traffic sweating my butt off. So for my car, the AC stays.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

[pbonsalb]

On a USA LHD car, would a custom motor mount arm allow the blower to sit lower? Relocating the PS reservoir is easy. Nothing you can do about the PS pump or the steering shaft if they are also in the way.

[Greenday694]

The motor mount arm is not in the way. The alternator is. A supercharger intake is in the rear of the housing on the side. The discharge from the supercharger itself is in the front, directly over top of where the alternator is. By angling the supercharger, the discharge pan has the opposite angle. The bottom of the discharge pan sits horizontal with the top of the alternator. It collects the air from a rectangle discharge Port from the bottom of the supercharger. Then directs it to the output. It's open all the way back to the bypass valve.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

[Greenday694]

I'm about to for a fresh set of plugs. Any suggestions? I've been using the Bosch two-prong copper core, one heat range colder than stock.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

[pbonsalb]

Maybe NGK 2668 for iridium or 4554 for copper. You should reduce the gap to maybe 0.022 for 15 psi. Both are single electrode. These work on turbo motors running 15-25 psi and making 500-750 rwhp. Some people have to reduce the gap further to avoid misfires, like down as far as 0.015. For around 15 psi, a 7 heat range works fine. For around 25 psi, a 9 heat range works. Those are NGK heat ranges; Bosch goes down in number for increased coldness.

[Greenday694]

From what I read and talking to a couple of tuner, they strongly recommend against iridium or platinum plugs for fi engines. And do recommend single ground standard type plug, 1 to 2 heat range colder, and reduce the gap. I typically stay with Bosch, but I've heard good things about NGK. So I would like to find a NGK single prong plug one heat range colder.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

[Greenday694]

And I would like to stay with a resistor type plug, because I'm not sure how my ECU would like the interference from non resistor plug.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

[pbonsalb]

I have personally run both my recommendations to over 20 psi on a tuned obd2 E36M3 ECU and know of people who have done the same with an obd1 ECU. Again, many of us have been running what I recommended for many years at high power levels on these cars with these ECU.

[MisterM52]

Whos seen Keith here take it to the track?

[pumpkin eater]

Have you checked the official hmw shop? I see them here fine
https://hydemotorworks.com/shop/prod...ercharger-kit/

I'm keen to see some more info about the V3 Eaton kit, specifically for fitment of an M90 to the M52B28 in an E36. Can we get any in-car or at least on-motor pictures? I would like to see what the clearance issues are for the M90 on the stock manifold. Do these issues exist if you forgo an intercooler?

[carcrazyethan]

I wonder if a VMP Performance 2.65l blower would be an option if you wanted to strive for even bigger power on this kit?

[pbonsalb]

I’d first like to see an M122 tuned and run on a dyno. The old AA 1.6L kits were good for 400 rwhp and the Eurosport 1.7L kits for maybe a little more. Tanks95 is running a 2.1L and making about 500 rwhp. The M122 is a 1.9L unit.

[GG///M3]

I’d first like to see an M122 tuned and run on a dyno. The old AA 1.6L kits were good for 400 rwhp and the Eurosport 1.7L kits for maybe a little more. Tanks95 is running a 2.1L and making about 500 rwhp. The M122 is a 1.9L unit.

I will most likely be picking up a kit in the spring Phil


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[pumpkin eater]

I’d first like to see an M122 tuned and run on a dyno. The old AA 1.6L kits were good for 400 rwhp and the Eurosport 1.7L kits for maybe a little more. Tanks95 is running a 2.1L and making about 500 rwhp. The M122 is a 1.9L unit.

The Eurosport kit looked awesome and I reckon it nailed the manifold issue.

[spyderg0d]

I'm keen to see some more info about the V3 Eaton kit, specifically for fitment of an M90 to the M52B28 in an E36. Can we get any in-car or at least on-motor pictures? I would like to see what the clearance issues are for the M90 on the stock manifold. Do these issues exist if you forgo an intercooler?

Keep in mind, its for the m90 that was short snout, rear vertical intake. Not the regular ole m90 you get off of anything model 3800. Although they are wayyyyy more available, they require the rare short snout or custom snout, and the back of the charger case to be machined. .. The snout alone ends up costing as much as just getting a better charger for this application.

[pumpkin eater]

Keep in mind, its for the m90 that was short snout, rear vertical intake. Not the regular ole m90 you get off of anything model 3800. Although they are wayyyyy more available, they require the rare short snout or custom snout, and the back of the charger case to be machined. .. The snout alone ends up costing as much as just getting a better charger for this application.

For sure, thanks man. I don't actually reckon I'd go with this under manifold design anyway.

SInce I saw this thread I've been contemplating trying to weld up a custom intake manifold airbox that the long snout M90 would sit on and blow directly into the motor thru short runners welded to the box like the ones you can get from PPF (link). Need to get my hands on one of these M90s and do some measurements.

[pbonsalb]

The Eurosport kit looked awesome and I reckon it nailed the manifold issue.

But it was also $7k to $10k for a complete kit with tuning. I think the goal of the M122 kit is to be a budget partial kit. I don’t know how much it would cost to get a kit running perfectly, assuming diy install. Obviously the blower will be used.

[Greenday694]

Maybe NGK 2668 for iridium or 4554 for copper. You should reduce the gap to maybe 0.022 for 15 psi. Both are single electrode. These work on turbo motors running 15-25 psi and making 500-750 rwhp. Some people have to reduce the gap further to avoid misfires, like down as far as 0.015. For around 15 psi, a 7 heat range works fine. For around 25 psi, a 9 heat range works. Those are NGK heat ranges; Bosch goes down in number for increased coldness.

I just received the NGK 2668 plugs in the mail yesterday. And oil and filter. Have to order those, no place around me sells liqui Molly.
Now back to the search of finding somebody who can tune my link G4 ECU.


Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

[Greenday694]

But it was also $7k to $10k for a complete kit with tuning. I think the goal of the M122 kit is to be a budget partial kit. I don’t know how much it would cost to get a kit running perfectly, assuming diy install. Obviously the blower will be used.

You are absolutely right. I have designed some very complex intakes , discharged pans, and every other part in the kit. That requires a lot of Machining. Unfortunately doing it that way more than triples the price. So I had to redesign it, sacrificing some form for function and price. And still be very durable and withstand the test of time. Me and Hyde both, want this to be something that everybody can afford.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk