Eaton M122h 3L m50

[spyderg0d]

I looked on your website, but it kept relaying back to the kits page.

[spyderg0d]

Indeed, it doesnt list prices, individual parts, like the other setups.

[MisterM52]

Have you checked the official hmw shop? I see them here fine
https://hydemotorworks.com/shop/prod...ercharger-kit/

[spyderg0d]

Wierd. When i click the link on the home page for superchargers, it only goes to the brief explanations of all the kits. Some parts are listed, but this page never pops up. Thanks for the link.

[Greenday694]

Track day was awesome I am completely hooked. It was on a Friday, and I'm glad I took the day off from work. Wednesday night when I got home from work my O2 sensor was here. So the only tuning was on my way back and forth to work and the morning of track day on my way there.
After my first session on the track , the guy that was behind me came over to let me know that my car was blowing a puff of black smoke now and then. Said it seemed to do it mostly coming out of a very tight turn. I did notice that my AFR dropping in the 9s at wot and Below 2500 RPMs. I trimmed a little fuel and the next three sessions were smoke-free.
The smooth low-end torque was awesome on the track. And the mid-range came in just right. I never felt a need to drop it down an extra gear and bring the RPMs up near 5000 , just to have good power going into the straights. I had absolutely no problem sticking to the back bumper of a C63 AMG that was in front of me, on every part of the track. If we were allowed to pass I would have.
This was my very first track day. And I definitely have a lot to learn. Keeping both hands on the wheel in the right position is one of those. And I have quite a ways to go before I can say that I take the corners smooth. I started out making a lot of Corrections mid turn. By the fourth session, not as much. I have to really upgrade the brakes. My E 46 330i breaks I'm using, started to really fade by the third lap. Especially slowing down going into turn one from over 130 mph. And I had quite a bit more body roll then I would like. So I'm looking into better sway bars. And I'm going to upgrade to a good set of track tires. The 255 35-18 street tires did okay. All four would start to let lose at the same time. No oversteer or understeer. Except with driver error. I did get a little too hard on the throttle a couple times and did a little drifting. And understeer when I tried to make to quick of a correction.
The whole time the engine ran great. Especially for a quickie Street tune. The power was always very controllable, and right on point.
And I have to admit, it felt good getting compliments from the other drivers, and how surprised they were about how an old E36 did on the track. Not stripped or gutted Streetcar at that.

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[GG///M3]

Sounds like this kit will be in my future come the spring


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[pbonsalb]

Try track brake pads and track tires.

[GG///M3]

Try track brake pads and track tires.

And stainless steel lines


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[Greenday694]

I'm still on the fence a little, between going to 9 inch wide front wheels and 9.5 in rear 18in diameter. Or going to 17s? Trying to get as much rubber down on the track as possible without wheel flares. From what I read, 9 inch wide 18 and 255 35 tires with the right offset will fit in the front, without any rubbing issues. 9.5 in the rear with 265 35, we'll fit in the rear. Lips are rolled front and back, and the rear is stretched slightly.
And I'm seriously considering going to stoptech Big brakes. I already have braided stainless lines front and rear. And I'm using super Dot 4 high temp fluid. On the track I didn't just start getting some fade, I was also getting a slight vibration going from 130 down to 50, going into turn one. It would go away around the rest of the track. But every time I went down the front straightaway and over 130 and hit the brakes hard, by the time I got near the corner I could feel a front end shaking and steering wheel. Definitely made me a little nervous. Especially when I had $100,000 car right in front of me.
I also want to swap my 315 gears for 293. As it stands right now first gear is completely useless. Except maybe parallel parking. I was in fourth and 5th around the whole track, except one turn I went down to 3rd.

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[GG///M3]

I'm still on the fence a little, between going to 9 inch wide front wheels and 9.5 in rear 18in diameter. Or going to 17s? Trying to get as much rubber down on the track as possible without wheel flares. From what I read, 9 inch wide 18 and 255 35 tires with the right offset will fit in the front, without any rubbing issues. 9.5 in the rear with 265 35, we'll fit in the rear. Lips are rolled front and back, and the rear is stretched slightly.
And I'm seriously considering going to stoptech Big brakes. I already have braided stainless lines front and rear. And I'm using super Dot 4 high temp fluid. On the track I didn't just start getting some fade, I was also getting a slight vibration going from 130 down to 50, going into turn one. It would go away around the rest of the track. But every time I went down the front straightaway and over 130 and hit the brakes hard, by the time I got near the corner I could feel a front end shaking and steering wheel. Definitely made me a little nervous. Especially when I had $100,000 car right in front of me.
I also want to swap my 315 gears for 293. As it stands right now first gear is completely useless. Except maybe parallel parking. I was in fourth and 5th around the whole track, except one turn I went down to 3rd.

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I’d say go 17’s, but you will want to make sure they have clearance for a bbk you maybe interested in.

I’d also look into maybe just going with building the diff for more clutches, and 40% lock. The factory diff when new was 25%, and that maybe a lot less now.


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[spyderg0d]

Yeah. I seen. Its still for the rare m90 not the standard found everywhere m90. Oh well.

[Greenday694]

I’d say go 17’s, but you will want to make sure they have clearance for a bbk you maybe interested in.

I’d also look into maybe just going with building the diff for more clutches, and 40% lock. The factory diff when new was 25%, and that maybe a lot less now.


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I'll have to see on the brakes. If they'll fit in the 17 I might do that.

I don't have any problems with one rear breaking loose. The problem is, first gear is only good for less than a second before I have to shift. And I'm almost maxing out 5th gear on this track. And I'm only in the beginner class. Once I get a little smoother and can carry more speed out of the last turn, I have a feeling I'm going to run out of gear before the next Breaking Point. The other option I thought of, is finding a solid 6-speed. So I can keep the engine in The Sweet Spot, between 3000 and 6200 RPMs. It will Rev to over 7500, but the power is really dropping off at that. The stock cams don't like it. And I really don't want to give up the low-end torque, and mid-range power, just to have more on the top end.

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[spyderg0d]

6 speeds dont handle the power too well and the main gearing 1 through 5 is actually shorter gears than a zf 5 spd. Best bet is to get better rear end ratio.

[pbonsalb]

A GS6-53 6 speed will handle the power. 22RPD sells a conversion kit. A few people have fitted Tremec Magnum, which is even stronger but also more expensive. The 420g is certainly a much easier and more common swap but the trans can have issues and are not rated for as much power.

1st will be comparable among the stock, GS6-53 and 420G. The Tremec may be different — I can’t remember. Even if you think 1st is short, it’s not an issue on the track since you are in 1st only to get off the line. I would not overthink 1st. Many of us have been running 500-600-700 rwhp for years with stock gearing and going fast.

I do agree that an OD would be nice on a street car. And that a 2.93 might be as quick as a 3.15 or 3.23 on a high power car on street tires that don’t give the traction you need.

[Greenday694]

So far the ZF 320z is holding up very well. The getrag 250g did not. Went through two of them 3 months. 320z is a little closer ratio then the 250g was. I will probably keep the 320z, and swap the gears for 293. I believe they will work nicely with all of the low end torque I have now.

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[pbonsalb]

If you have big power, you will break 3rd gear on the ZF320. We don’t know what sort of power you have, so maybe you aren’t making enough to break the trans. That makes your life simpler.

There were no 2.93 188 mm LSD sold in the US. You will have to make one. It requires a different LSD unit since the one in the USA E36 won’t take a 2.93 gear. If you have big power and launch with a 188mm diff on tires that give you traction (R compounds), you will break the 188mm diff output stubs. You will also break the driveshaft. Since you have done neither yet, you don’t have big power or aren’t launching on tires with traction. That also makes your life simpler.

[GG///M3]

The e30 my friend had a 2.93 lsd


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[pbonsalb]

I meant E36 diffs. You can get older ones and swap internals, but you have to reset the diff.

[GG///M3]

Yes it works


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[Greenday694]

I definitely do not want to break anyting. After my bad experiences with a couple 250 g Transmissions, I take it very easy on the 320z. I shifted smooth and do not just dump the clutch in the next gear. I never smacked a pedal to the floor. Especially in first and second. 255 35-18, would just go up in smoke as soon as I hit about 2500 rpm. Tires are not cheap. So I avoid doing that.
I'm not real concerned about launching. I'm not into drag racing. The reason for wanting to change the gear ratio, is so that I do not run out of gear on the top end. I'm a beginner, and not anywhere near Race speed. Yet I am almost out of gear at speeds that I'm going. As I learn more, get smoother, and can carry more speed exiting a corner, I will run out of engine and end up bouncing off the rev-limiter before I get to the next Breaking Point.
I did consider switching to s50 cams, or something like that from the aftermarket. But I don't believe that will help much, with the roots supercharger that is most efficient in the mid-range. I designed the brackets so that I could upgrade to the TVS, and the twin screw. The better cams would work nicely with the twin screw. But I would have to build a much stronger bottom end to handle it.
Sticking with the engine setup as is, I just want to get a little more on the top end.

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[pbonsalb]

S52 cams are great, with no real downside. I probably would not rev to 7500 with M52 cams since they are not efficient at that rpm. I am not sure I would rev to 7500 with a blower dragging in the crank. The stock dampers don’t really like that rpm, either. The M52 seems to handle it better than the S52, though. Fitting a 2.93 LSD would drop rpm and you have the torque to give good acceleration with it—maybe even better if you are smoking the tires now. Better tires would help. R compounds. They wear faster and cost more but stick much better. There are also 2.79 LSD out there. I forget the application, but they would also require setting up the diff again.

[Greenday694]

Thanks for everybody's input on everything above. Now I'm starting to get confused with the brakes. There's so many different big brake kits on the market. I don't have a ton of money to spend on it. So I'm looking to get the best brakes for the price. I still have the E46 330i brakes front and rear. I thought about throwing a set of good pads on there, but I have a feeling that's not going to give me the stopping power I'm looking for.? Any suggestions?
The other problem I noticed while on the track is that I have quite a bit of body roll. The Bilstein B8 and H&R sport Springs seem to work very well together. But the stock sway bars are a little too soft. Any suggestions on front and rear sway bar combinations? As it stands now even with the car rolling quite a bit, it's very well balanced front and rear. No understeer or oversteer. So of course any sway bars I put on I would like to keep the balance that I already have if possible. Thanks

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[5speed300]

You might be surprised, a lot of people race with stock brakes and good pads. Certainly cheaper to start there than dropping money on a bbk, especially if you are relatively new to DE. PFC08 are great pads, DTC60 as well.

How was the heat soak on the track? I'm interested in the kit but run in the advanced groups and push the car pretty hard for 25 to 30 minutes. Did you notice any loss in power?

[Greenday694]

Thanks for the info. That was one option I was seriously looking at. Good set of pads and good rotors.
The only time I had any heat soak and loss of power, was after sitting there idling in pit Lane for about 15 minutes. One guy clipped one of the curb stops. So we all had to come in to have his car checked over to make sure he didn't crack a rim or anything. Pulling back out on the track, and the first couple turns, power was down a little. But once we were back up to speed everything was good. Air-to-air intercooler have there good and bad. Without air flow intake temp will climb pretty quickly. With airflow, it drops right back down again.

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[5speed300]

How about bleeding the cooling system? It's a pain in the butt even on a stock e36, the way that upper radiator hose loops over the snout of the blower looks from the pictures like it's a new high point in the system. Does it not trap a bunch of air?