Eaton M122h 3L m50

[Greenday694]

Hello again. Been a while been very busy with the superchargers with Hyde.
Good news and bad news. 258000 MI and a little over 13 pounds of boost finally took its toll on my original engine. Started with quite a bit of blow by followed by a James Bond smokescreen out the back.
So in between working on SC 14 project and the m122h set up, I built a 3 l m 50 Stroker motor. All ARP Hardware, Tri metal bearings, 140 head gasket. And all the good stuff. All clearances checked and rechecked and Rings gapped.
For the first couple thousand miles I drove it with the bypass valve wide open. Took it fairly easy at first and little by little started bringing the RPM's up. Downshifting to a stop to bring the engine vacuum up to help seat the Rings. Not sure if taking it easy on it and the downshifting helped or not. I've read numerous times in different forms of probably a hundred different ways to break in an engine. But right now the engine has 4000 miles on it and I've been pushing 16 pounds of boost for the last 2000 miles. Not even the slightest hint of blow by and just last weekend pulled a compression test. I have about a 5 PSI difference in all six cylinders. 149 to 154.
It runs very smooth and steady from day one. But once I close the bypass valve and start it pushing maxboost I realize that I was barely hitting 12 PSI. With the stock pulley the supercharger is under driven because of the fairly small diameter of the crank pulley. And since I raised my displacement .5 l, I need it to spin the supercharger a little faster. So I installed a 2.6 Hub and pulley. that brought the boost up to 16 PSI.
from the initial firing of the new engine to this day I am still working on the tuning. Still running the Bosch 413 and ostrich 2 emulator with tunerpro Bin definition. As soon as I started pushing the engine a little I was maxing out 89 mm Mas. I know the Porsche unit can flow more. but from what I've read, I might Max that out as well. So I decided to try PMass hpx-e.
After entering all 256 values, I started the long process of retuning all of fuel Maps and the Vanos switching. I know a lot of people like to lock the Vanos out, for boosting, because it simplifies tuning. But what they don't understand is that the Vanos unit can actually help build even more power with the same boost level, while maintaining good driveability and dare I say it good fuel economy.
But once again just like my previous builds, I'm in uncharted waters. with an outdated temperamental ECU. but that is part of the fun. :-)

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[medik212]

Subscribed!

[spyderg0d]

Winning

[Greenday694]

Hello everybody. I figured take a little time to update everybody on my build. I did have the car running fairly well to a point. Unfortunately 42lb injectors pretty much max out the range that the DME drivers can support. Even then I had to use every trick in the tuning book dial them back enough to idle, and still give me the fuel I need under boost. I even spent almost 300 on a PMas extended range sensor. And restyled the m a s map. Was still running out of injector on the top end. So I switched over to the link ECU G4 Plus, and 60 lb Deka injectors. The built-in map sensor is nice, and I don't have to worry about a maxing out m a s. Because it does not use it. Then I had to learn how to tune a speed density ECU. Once again I have it running pretty good. But I know I have to get it on the dyno, to get the time in dialed in right. It's really difficult to do a 3rd gear pull on public roads. Unless I want flashing lights behind me. Been there before, :-)
And I am still running the original M1 22h prototype. With the epoxied together M50 manifold. Once me and Hyde are all caught up our clients, then I will put the official kit on my car. Not that there's anything wrong with the Prototype. But the official kit it looks a lot nicer, and has a Aluminum Intake.

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[Greenday694]

About a month ago I finally put my Explorer on the road for everyday driving duties. Up till then I drove my supercharged BMW back and forth to work, 5 days a week, snow ice and rain. Have put almost 20,000 miles on the new engine, that's about 15 months old. I should have done this a while ago. Last year when I weld it in the rear subframe reinforcement and reinforce the subframe and upper control arms, I did notice quite a bit of rust in the floor pans, and a couple other places. I have since replace them. But realize that even though I love driving the car, that it's not going to last if I keep driving it everyday in bad weather. Latest example, the end of this past winter I was the Third vehicle that hit the same deer, at night in the rain. By the time I hit it, it went up under the left front of my car and bust it up my bumper cover and fender liner. I recently repaired all the damage. And I started repairing some of the Bodywork that the body shop screwed up a couple years back. The front edge of my hood has some small pits when I took it in for repair and paint. Since then and started rusting and bubbling the paint up. And they really messed up the side skirts and rear spoiler. They were both wavy. And while I was at the hood, I decided to try to cut my own vents. I figured why not. The hood was already a little messed up. I'm actually very surprised that it turned out so good. Still have to clean up the edges then prep it for paint and clear coat.

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[Greenday694]

The other modifications has been to the suspension. M3 Bilstein B8 shocks and struts, H&R sport Springs, reverse Mount M3 upper strut mount, offset front lower control arm bushings, metal outer ball joint, polyurethane rear subframe mounts, polyurethane trailing arm bushings and differential bushings. Needless to say, handling is very tight and crisp. Especially with 255 35-18. I still have the E46 330i larger vented brakes all the way around. Braided stainless steel hoses and super Dot 4 high temp brake fluid. They seem to do very well for now, I will see how they handle the track soon.

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[Greenday694]

One problem has been plaguing me for a while. Trying to find a tuner within a reasonable distance that will tune my car, and knows there way around PC link software. And will not charge me a small fortune. I already got one quote of $2,500.

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[pbonsalb]

You can run 60, 80, even 100 lb injectors on a stock obd1 or obd2 ECU. The record is over 1000 rwhp from a factory ECU. I don’t know the details, but it is done all the time for forced induction use. I have run 42s and 60s and am changing to 80s. A higher capacity HFM is required and tuners have used a few different ones in both draw through and blow through configuration.

Hello everybody. I figured take a little time to update everybody on my build. I did have the car running fairly well to a point. Unfortunately 42lb injectors pretty much max out the range that the DME drivers can support.

[Greenday694]

Yes you are absolutely right. You can run larger injectors with the 413 and the 506 DME. And the pmass extended range is capable of flowing over 2000 kg per hour . The problem is everyday drivability will suffer. I can be very stubborn. I set out determined to use the stock ECU, and make my car run as close to perfect as possible. Despite all of the professional tuners that I've talked with telling me it won't work. The later OBD2 Siemens units, have a faster CPU, and higher speed transistors to drive the injectors. The Bosch motronic will work for track use and drag racing. By simply tuning the limp mode / Alpha n. I used the 89 m m m a s , and once it maxed out , I tuned the alpha n m a s map 2 simulate from that point on up. I have done it. And the car ran okay. But it still had its little glitches here and there at different temperatures, altitude, engine load, and so on.

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[pbonsalb]

Driveability is fine. I have been driving on 60s for 9 years. Zero problems — 95F in summer with AC on in heavy traffic, -15F winter, trapping 130+ mph at the dragstrip, on a highway trip, on secondary roads, at 6000’ altitude, at 10’ altitude, around town, etc. And I know of many others. And there are many tuners doing this.

I am getting an 80lb tune in a few weeks. I don’t expect any issues. I have drive a couple of local turbo E36 with 80s and they seemed fine to me.

[stache]

What’s your honest review on the kit how much whp/tq are you making ? Do you have any videos and pictures. I got in contact with Hyde about the kit i just want to see more reviews on it. It looks amazing thou

[Greenday694]

Driveability is fine. I have been driving on 60s for 9 years. Zero problems — 95F in summer with AC on in heavy traffic, -15F winter, trapping 130+ mph at the dragstrip, on a highway trip, on secondary roads, at 6000’ altitude, at 10’ altitude, around town, etc. And I know of many others. And there are many tuners doing this.

I am getting an 80lb tune in a few weeks. I don’t expect any issues. I have drive a couple of local turbo E36 with 80s and they seemed fine to me.

You are right. 96 to 99, use the Siemens ms-41. They are very tunable, by way of a reflash.
The 93 to 95 single Vanos used the Bosch motronic 413, is a chiptune.

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[Greenday694]

What’s your honest review on the kit how much whp/tq are you making ? Do you have any videos and pictures. I got in contact with Hyde about the kit i just want to see more reviews on it. It looks amazing thou

I might not be the best person to answer this. Considering I'm the one who designed the kit. But if you're asking my opinion on the difference between the Prototype and the final product, the final product is a lot neater and looks good with the powder coat.
Within the next couple weeks I will be installing the official kit on my own car. I'm going to shoot lots of pictures and video of the installation process. I'm also doing a few more upgrades to my car while I'm doing this. I will be installing a larger aftermarket throttle body, 3 in. And wire my electric fan relays into my link ECU. And will most likely wire in one of my front wheel sensors into the ECU as well , so I can set up the traction control. This would be helpful if I got caught out in the rain.
Other than that, the kit is a do-it-yourself supercharger setup. And does not require any cutting the body of your car or engine. And could easily be removed years later if you wanted to restore back to stock. It can also be upgraded, using the Eaton TVS supercharger or the twin screw.
A proper tune is extremely important. Tuning these types of superchargers is completely different than a turbo or centrifugal supercharger. Turbos and centrifugal superchargers build boost. This supercharger is instantaneous. Cruising along at 2600 RPMs and around 20 square in of vacuum, then smack the pedal to the floor and you have instant 16 lb of boost.
Hope this answers some of your questions. If you have any more , you can reach me or Hyde, at HydeMotorworks.com

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[pbonsalb]

You are right. 96 to 99, use the Siemens ms-41. They are very tunable, by way of a reflash.
The 93 to 95 single Vanos used the Bosch motronic 413, is a chiptune.

Many have tuned the 413 for 60s and 80s (maybe beyond) without issue. Again, it’s done all the time by turbo E36 owners/tuners.

Certainly resolution cannot be as good with big injectors at idle but this has not been a problem. You should run a higher idle speed with the supercharger. A few hundred rpm might help make it smoother. Most of us with forced induction run 850-900 rpm idle.

[Greenday694]

I wish I knew your tuner before I switched over to a standalone.

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[pbonsalb]

Standalones can do some cool stuff, like drop boost or lower the rpm limiter as a fail safe, data log, run a hotter ignition system, incorporate water/meth into the tune with failsafe, etc. Some people love playing with them. If I was going to get one, I would find one that someone I knew was an expert with so I would not have to figure everything out since computers and tuning are not really an area of natural interest for me.

Another advantage of the chip tune is that once you have done it, it is easier for others to copy. No need to buy the standalone. Just the fuel injection hardware. Plus, for areas with OBD2 plug in inspection, you can still pass. I have not had an obd1 car in 20 years so I have forgotten how inspection works for them, but maybe a stand-alone is not an issue.

[stache]

I was talking with this guy at a car meet I’m currently still N/A planning on boosting it soon has had a big turbo 700hp M3 we were talking about his kit in particular and he was saying in general that our engines don’t respond well to superchargers but I have never owned a boosted car turbo/supercharged so I can’t really argue with him but I’m still really interested in this kit the price is unbeatable and it’s just so sick !! How does it drive and how do you love it ?

[Greenday694]

Good questions :-). It is awesome the Boost and power is instantaneous. No pre-spooling , anti lag, and no drama. You smacked the pedal to the floor, the Boost comes up, and you go! All within a tenth of a second. I have 255-18 on my car, and 315 LSD. At 1200 RPMs, second gear, I punch it and Blaze the rear tires. The low end torque and mid-range power is ridiculous. And still pull strong all the way up to 7500. On the daily driver side, the power is very manageable and controllable. You will never get any unexpected burst of power when you don't want it. It drives very well on tight technical tracks, autocross, and give you plenty of power for longer wide open tracks. And still maintain very BMW like driving qualities on the street. I still get 24 miles to the gallon on the highway at over 70.
I'm not going to ignore or act like parasitic drag is a myth. it does take some horsepower from the engine to turn the supercharger. You will lose more horsepower from driving a supercharger then you do from the back pressure created by a turbo. But in my opinion and apparently the top fuel drag racers opinion, the benefits far outweigh the deficits. not to mention Ford GM and Chrysler all using superchargers on there High horsepower V8s. Plus superchargers are a set it and forget it.
I have built turbo cars, big block supercharged cars and owned a couple. But after getting really involved with superchargers, I will never go back.
I hope this answers your question

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[Greenday694]

Figure I will do a quick little update. I finally got around to putting one of the official kits on my car. Even though the Prototype serve me well, the official kit is more refined and powder-coated. Went on with no problems. I also upgraded the injectors to Deka 80lb. I was pushing over 80% DC with the 60 lb injectors. The larger injectors also give me a little Headroom if I decide to run E85.
Then finally after 2 years of running the larger E46 330i brakes all around, I decided to get my e-brake working. I had some custom-made rear shoes that would fit the E36 backing plate and the E46 larger drum diameter. But notice that my backing plates had quite a bit of rust, and the retaining pins started to pull through. I did replace both e brake cables, about a year ago when I redid my subframe, welded in reinforcement plates, reinforced new subframe, reinforced upper control arms, polyurethane bushings and replaced everything else.
This past weekend I replaced the backing plates wheel bearings spindles and both axles. E brake works perfect.
The reason for all of these reinforcements has partly been because of the increased torque. The main reason for the entire build is to get out on the track. The only thing that's been holding me back is myself. I kept finding little problems here and there and telling myself the car is not 100% ready. In reality the car will never be 100%. So I finally signed up 4 track day at New Jersey State motor park, this Friday October 11th. This will be my first track day, and my car's first track day. This should be interesting . I think we both will do just fine. Even though having a very good deep understanding of physics and engineering, can be very helpful in a lot of areas in life. On the track it's not so great. I can easily come up with a thousand different things that can go wrong. From metal fatigue to a weak spot weld, to a defect in one of the many new parts. Maybe once I get out on the track, I will be able to focus on driving, and be confident that my car will perform as expected.
I would also like to be able to prove that a 26 year old E36 can perform very well. I saw the list of cars that will be there. None of them are older than 2006. Quite a few Corvettes Mustangs, and I believe one Subaru STI. From my street fun, I know I can keep up with and beat quite a few of them in a straight line. That might be my advantage on the track. Cornering and braking, not so confident. Any words of advice from some of the more seasoned track veterans? Thanks.

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[Greenday694]

Complete kit0916191743.jpg

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[thenjnick]

Very clean. I would like to come out to see that car if my schedule would allow it.


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[Smoky540i]

very cool!

[Greenday694]

Thanks guys. A lot of work went into it so far. Still have a few more things to straighten out. Tuning is at the top of the list right now.
Couple weeks ago my O2 sensor went out for my wideband, that also supplies the signal to the link G4 plus ECU. The first sensor I received turned out to be damaged. Just got a new one today that works good. Put it in after I got home from work, wanted to log some data. Unfortunately it's been raining off and on all day. So tomorrow I will log data going back and forth to work, and hopefully get the tune dialed in right with the 80lb injectors. Or at least close enough for track day.

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[spyderg0d]

Shux.. Im still hopeing for the m90 thing. I still find m90 all over the place cheap. What ever happened to that?

[MisterM52]

We released the V3 M90/M62 kits last month..