Member
Even if it is, the valve is almost certainly bent by now.Originally Posted by sharadn
I can't think of a fix that doesn't require pulling the head at this point.
Anyone else have any ideas?
Member
At this point I am planning on pulling the head. Manifold is removed, waiting for tools to take head apart. I have looked around quite a bit on DIY for head removal and replacement. Anyone with some additional gotchas is appreciated
Last edited by sharadn; 09-11-2018 at 07:29 PM.
Member
The camshaft timing tool is backordered at Bavauto until the end of October. Do I need this for removing the head? If it is cracked it is going to the machine shop anyways and they will just take it off.
Member
You do not need to remove the cams to take the head off. As long as the machine shop is familiar with BMW heads they should have no problem. If they are not familiar then I would not be taking it there. The cams can be cracked if not removed properly. I have done it with no special tools but it has to be done a certain way.
'94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
'93 325is Coupe, Schwarz, work beater 299k
'89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped. Sold
'04 Toyota Sienna XLE Limited AWD, In progress swapping to M50/G250, http://www.wibimmers.com/board/index...nna-25i-build/
'05 Volvo V70 R, 6mt, mostly stock, kid hauler 200k Sold
'85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
Member
Well, I pulled the head and it looks like a sticking lifter. See the photo. This is at TDC and the valves should be closed. The one that is open is kind of squishy. I guess that the head will make a trip to the shop since it is out already, but if I had been able to figure it out I could have fixed it from the top.
intake valve e36.jpg
Member
You can refurb all your lifters, watch YouTube.
Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".
Member
Eris93se: thanks for all your input. I
appreciate it.
Member
These two look good. Is there anything else I need to know
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rk1a0Sx-8WM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wRnqy-7dT28
Member
Do I have to replace all the lifters as a set or only the ones with problems? Can I intall used ones and mix and match with my good ones?
Member
I would replace the damaged ones with new, here is link for a good price.
There is no need for overpriced engine timing tools, what I linked to ebay was fine.
https://www.rmeuropean.com/Make/BMW/...?search=lifter
- - - Updated - - -
There are very detailed youtube videos on how to properly tear down the head without damaging valves etc.
Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".
Member
I removed the cams and found a broken spring. Also have some scoring on my cam shaft but the bearings seem to be better. Not sure if this warrants attention or not. See the photos
camshaft 1 e36.jpgbroken spring e36.jpg.camshaft 2 e36.jpg
Member
Rebuilding out style lifters, this guy does a good job but he goes overboard with chemicals.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sIyI6zWWbiI
Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".
Member
I would recommend considering buying a whole head that's been gone through or rebuilt. They are like $600 on ebay. You can't reuse that camshaft, I guess you could buy a used head and take parts off it, that would be the cheapest option.
Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".
Member
Most ebay heads don't include cams it seems. I would not jump to buy parts, you should take some time to weigh your options and check local car part lots.
Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".
Member
http://www.car-part.com/
has 4 engines with heads for sale in your area. You should read up on the M52 and what cars have it and also what casting numbers are good for you to use. In case you didn't know, M52tu is dual vanos and you cannot use that.
Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".
Member
I could probably get a loaded one from this vendor in Florida. I will take mine to a machine shop and see what they say and then compare.
https://m.ebay.com/itm/BMW-325i-328i...cAAMXQcVNQ7trM
Member
I know about the m52tu. I am thinking I should get my head redone or get a refurbished one. If I buy a used one it may also has its own problems. With all the work involved in swapping out a head, I don't want to do it again right away.
Member
Is the scoring coming from the head or the tray? (just an outside chance to not have to replace the whole head).
Also, Riot Racing has some relatively inexpensive cams - if you have to buy some new ones anyway. https://westcoastriots.com/shop/auto...ind-camshafts/
Another option is getting some M3 cams. You've done the hard part - you've got them out. Might as well get an upgrade while you're at it.
-Josh: 1998 S54 E36 M3/4/6 with most of the easy stuff and most of the hard stuff. At least twice. 271k miles. 1994 E32 740il with nothing but some MPars. 93k miles.
Member
I have bought a couple heads from them. They do good work. They send you a shipping label to return your old head in the same box with. They come ready to bolt on and go. I have chatted with them on the phone and they are quite familiar with BMW heads even though they do lots of different heads. They go by Oddessa or Clearwater Cylinder Heads. I think they have a couple locations. Make sure to call them to verify you are getting the right one.
Yours is an M52 right? The head castings are the same for m50, m52, S50, S52. The M50 and S50 have 3 tapped holes instead of two which is nice for adding an aftermarket coolant temp sender. The cams have the same profile between M50 and M52 but the OBD2 cams are thicker between the journals for better balancing. It really doesn't matter. The 24V head I got from them for one of my cars has 3 ports because it's OBD1 and it had late style cams in it. I also got an M20 head a few years back for a customer's car and they had trouble sourcing a good camshaft and instead of making me wait they bought one straight from BMW to install so they probably didn't even make any money on it.
Last edited by jc43089; 09-17-2018 at 03:30 PM. Reason: I missed that it was an M52
'94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
'93 325is Coupe, Schwarz, work beater 299k
'89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped. Sold
'04 Toyota Sienna XLE Limited AWD, In progress swapping to M50/G250, http://www.wibimmers.com/board/index...nna-25i-build/
'05 Volvo V70 R, 6mt, mostly stock, kid hauler 200k Sold
'85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
Member
Lots of good information here. Two new cams for that price looks very reasonable. Will the new profile or if I use M3 cams have any affect on the way the DME manages the motor? I can just pop them in there and go with no retune or anything?
Member
Mine is an M52 single vanos-1998 vert 328i. I don't quite understand why the cam is scored and the journals seem to be OK. I would imagine that with the broken spring replaced and valves seats and guides checked along with dropping in new camshafts that all should be good. I don't think the head is cracked as the broken spring is obviously the issue and there is not water in the oil and it has never overheated since I had it. I think that the casting is good. The lifters might need to be inspected and cleaned but I never had any issue until the spring broke, no ticking or noisy lifters.
Member
I could just source a refurbished head and be done with it. I am wondering if there is any value in keeping the original head casting with the car. It seems to have the correct build date on it and I think everything else is how it cam from the factory. Also if I would keep my casting and replace the cams, I guess I need to source cams, trays and lifters together correct?
Member
Trays and lifters should stay together unless new lifters, the cam shouldn't really matter.
'94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
'93 325is Coupe, Schwarz, work beater 299k
'89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped. Sold
'04 Toyota Sienna XLE Limited AWD, In progress swapping to M50/G250, http://www.wibimmers.com/board/index...nna-25i-build/
'05 Volvo V70 R, 6mt, mostly stock, kid hauler 200k Sold
'85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
Member
how about the caps on the trays? Do these stay with the trays?
Member
In an M3 you can just pop in cams. You get more benefit with some tuning, but they're plug and play. It SHOULD be the same for you, but I'm not 100% certain.
Most machine shops are pretty friendly. You should be able to take the head, cam, and cam trays in, tell them what happened, and ask them to look at them for you before you have everything done. They will usually look at them and tell you if they're bad and not fixable / worth fixing when you take them in.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks