My 1996 Z3 had the clutch replaced in 2009. Paid $900. Just had the clutch go out and my uncle replaced the slave cylinder this morning. Still not working like it should. He thinks if he bleeds the clutch properly again, it should be fine. I have my doubts. Shouldn't a full clutch last longer than 9 years? I have barely put any miles on the car since 2009, as I work from home and the furthest I drive is 10 city blocks away.
I am curious about this also. I have 108k on my Z3M and clutch seems okay. I doubt it's been replaced. If I will need a clutch in the next couple of years, I'd rather do it now, because I have a lightweight flywheel I'd like to install. How many miles is "barely"?
There is a special bleeding procedure for the slave cylinder. It's very easy to mess up.
-Abel
- E36 328is ~210-220whp: Lots of Mods.
- 2000 Z3: Many Mods.
- 2003 VW Jetta TDI Manual 47-50mpg
- 1999 S52 Estoril M Coupe
- 2014 328d Wagon, self-tuned, 270hp/430ft-lbs
- 2019 M2 Competition, self-tuned, 504whp
- 2016 Mini Cooper S
The slave apparently can trap air unless removed and inverted. Here posts all giving that tip:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...80&postcount=5
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...4#post26602674
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...2#post16538542
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d-clutch-fluid
BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405
Did the 2009 clutch wear out? What were the symptoms? Was the clutch then removed and replaced? What did the clutch look like then -- truly worn? Z3 clutches last well over 100,000 miles in normal driving.
Or are you saying the clutch began to not disengage, and your uncle diagnosed and replaced its slave cylinder? And that repair has been the problem, not the clutch itself?
When replacing the clutch slave cylinder, it is a good idea to replace the line to it. The old rubber line becomes soft with age, and swells when the clutch is depressed, reducing the fluid available to work the slave cylinder, which causes clutch drag and hard shifting. The UUC stainless steel clutch line is a popular replacement.
http://store.uucmotorwerks.com/stain...t-z3-p318.aspx
Last edited by Vintage42; 08-28-2018 at 03:15 PM.
BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405
If you go to the trouble of pulling the transmission at 100,000+ miles to change the flywheel, it’s a no brainer to replace the clutch and related parts at the same time. This is not the time to save a few bucks.
1999 M Coupe Boston Green, Beige, H&R/Bilsteins, Underdrive Pulleys, Euro 6 speed, UUC SSK and Randy Forbes in the back
2002 2.5 Z3 roadster Oxford Green, auto, all stock
2013 Ram 3500 Crew Cab Dually 385 HP, 850 ft lbs torque at 1600 rpm, all stock and staying that way
2004 Mini Cooper Chili Red, daily driver, modified almost daily
Right. That was my point. If I take it apart, I'll do everything, but I don't want to if this clutch will last another 30 or 40k miles. On the other hand, if it's inevitable in the next 10 to 20k miles, I might as well do it now and enjoy the lighter flywheel sooner. I know, it's all speculation.
- - - Updated - - -
And, what does "not working like it should" mean? It is doing what (not engaging/disengaging fully), under what conditions (hot/cold? high speed/idling?) It's not reasonable that your clutch wore out in 15k miles, unless it was improperly adjusted and slipping all the time. You would notice that.
Your clutch could last another 100,000 miles. Clutches are a wear item and some people can roast a clutch in 10,000 miles and others can make them last 250,000 miles. Having done plenty of clutch jobs, I’d rather spend the money on a new clutch and waste 40,000 miles than go back in 40,000 miles and replace the clutch. Plus, I’d really want a new clutch on a new flywheel so they mate together correctly.
1999 M Coupe Boston Green, Beige, H&R/Bilsteins, Underdrive Pulleys, Euro 6 speed, UUC SSK and Randy Forbes in the back
2002 2.5 Z3 roadster Oxford Green, auto, all stock
2013 Ram 3500 Crew Cab Dually 385 HP, 850 ft lbs torque at 1600 rpm, all stock and staying that way
2004 Mini Cooper Chili Red, daily driver, modified almost daily
I guess I wasn't clear. I would NEVER change out the flywheel without putting in a new clutch. That makes no sense. So the options are: put in a new clutch/flywheel/other parts now, or do nothing and wait. I am gentle on my clutches, so if it can last another 100k miles, I'll do nothing and wait.
The Bavarain bleeding tool (currently out of stock) and Motive power bleeder go a loooooong way. https://www.bavauto.com/bmw-clutch-s...d-tool-cbttool
• Built S52 w/Dinan ISR-3 kit, NickG Stage 2+ Tune, Dinan Vortech V2 Supercharger, Dinan Air to Air Intercooler, Dinan CAI, Porsche 803 HFM, Buldogge 6" crank pulley, Griptec 2.90" blower pulley, Eurosport UD pulleys, Dinan 3.38 Diff, Dinan front/rear Swaybars, Dinan springs, Koni Yellow Sport Struts, Ground Control end links, South Bend Clutch Stage 3 Organic, AASCO Light Weight Flywheel 18.5#, Zionsville Radiator & Oil Cooler, Riot Racing BBTB, Schrick Intake Manifold, 42# Injectors, Schrick cams 264/256, Forged Wiseco pistons 9.0 comp., Forged Eagle rods, Supertech dual valve springs & valves, VAC crank & bearings, Supersprint mufflers, Euro Z3 midpipe, Raceland euro headers, Walbro 255, Bevauto ignition coils, Vortech Mondo bypass, Bailey Diverter DV30, Ireland Rear Subframe Bushings, Mason Engineering Strut Brace, Mason Engineering Clutch Petal, Apex 18" EC-7 Wheels, Full Custom Sound System, two trunk lids (with & without OE spoiler), Hardtop, Trunk full of AK's...
I have got 18 years, and about 156k on my original clutch, who's got more?
I don't think the clutch slave on Non-M's are as difficult to bleed as the Ms? - I don't use any special tools - and bleeding does help clutch feel/engagement.
“Great wisdom is generous; petty wisdom is contentious.” 无为
How do you determine the clutch is bad? Does it slip? You can't go by "at what point of pedal travel does it grab" on those clutches, they re-adjust continously (LuK SAC). There is a special tool that is supposed to be put into the slave cylinder hole that measures clutch disk wear.
I can tell you that a new E36 clutch has (what feels like) the same pickup point as a worn clutch. They grab high all the time, part of that is due to the clutch delay valve.
Last edited by me77; 08-29-2018 at 03:40 PM.
96 320i Touring
98 Z3 2.8 Roadster
01 PY M Coupe
96 Z3 1.9 - DASC
95 318ti Clubsport
94 Miata M-Edition
13 smart fortwo
I'm at 135k,autocrossing since 84K, she's starting to slip in 2nd at full chat, and is very hard to get in 1st after racing all morning, but is fine the next day
until the next AX.
I just changed my clutch, I has 147K and I had 1mm left on top of the rivets, which is the minimum for normal, below that and the clutch should be changed. There is a specialty tool (probe) that tells you the clutch pad thickness, but not worth the money for me.
• Built S52 w/Dinan ISR-3 kit, NickG Stage 2+ Tune, Dinan Vortech V2 Supercharger, Dinan Air to Air Intercooler, Dinan CAI, Porsche 803 HFM, Buldogge 6" crank pulley, Griptec 2.90" blower pulley, Eurosport UD pulleys, Dinan 3.38 Diff, Dinan front/rear Swaybars, Dinan springs, Koni Yellow Sport Struts, Ground Control end links, South Bend Clutch Stage 3 Organic, AASCO Light Weight Flywheel 18.5#, Zionsville Radiator & Oil Cooler, Riot Racing BBTB, Schrick Intake Manifold, 42# Injectors, Schrick cams 264/256, Forged Wiseco pistons 9.0 comp., Forged Eagle rods, Supertech dual valve springs & valves, VAC crank & bearings, Supersprint mufflers, Euro Z3 midpipe, Raceland euro headers, Walbro 255, Bevauto ignition coils, Vortech Mondo bypass, Bailey Diverter DV30, Ireland Rear Subframe Bushings, Mason Engineering Strut Brace, Mason Engineering Clutch Petal, Apex 18" EC-7 Wheels, Full Custom Sound System, two trunk lids (with & without OE spoiler), Hardtop, Trunk full of AK's...
I have a customer that had 170 k on his 2002 m5 when it was replaced. Now the car has 260k it has the original engine never been apart, other than coolant work, valve cover gaskets. .its all about how you drive the car and maintain it.
Last edited by jclausen; 08-31-2018 at 09:04 AM.
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