installing alarm and solving e36 common problems

[thundercat]

On my compustar alarm there is a white wire called (accesory) wire.
How do i use that wire to roll down my windows with my remote?
what do i connect it to? the window switches?

[M3C]

This is long thread with very helpful info. Thanks.

[QUOTE=patrick S;2637622]famous window problem:
many people have window problems with e36 when their windows roll up or down by half an inch at one time.
the window motor has motion sensor inside which takes info from magnetic ring that is on motor shaft. for some reason this ring dislocates and sensor gets no info so motor drive circuit thinks its stuck.
all you have to do is to open motor and relocate this ring. on sedan it can be done without taking window mechanism apart ( and drill rivets) on coupe you have to take mechanism on table.
magnet ring is marked red and red arrow points toward its place where its have to be






I can't see the pictures, can you please help.

Thanks

[koteles]

anyone has installed an alarm unit that works with the windows regulator ... because when I lock my car I want the windows to close automatically ... the problem seems to come from the Comfort Computer that lowers and raises the window 5 mm when the door is opened/shut .... so ? did someone managed to solve this problem ? I am talking about e36 coupes only of course Thank you ...

[akora]

Hello

I have a BMW e36 from 1994 and I am trying to install my alarm system (Not BMW orginal) by using this guide. But I do not succed to install the cables for the central lock. In my car I have a green and a yellow connector (behind the glovedepartment).

I am trying to find the "lock" and the "unlock" cables, because thats what my alarm system needs. But I am out of luck. I have searched the web and find this information, also the electic schedule at the12volt dot com
The pictures in this thread does not work any more, so I do not have anyting to go from.

Does anyone know the colors of the "lock" and "unlock" cable?

What my alarm does is to send out a 12 +/- (+ or - depending on settings), for about 1 second, I just need to know where to connect the cables.

Thanks in advanced

rswebb.se/fileadmin/templates/rswebb/bmw_cable.jpeg
In the image (url above) you can see my connectors, I have understand that the "big" white cable on the black connector (on the right top) sends a signal when locking the car, but when I connect the alarm lockcable to it, the fuse burns.

[Balthazarr]

if it helps anyone, the motor cover can be removed in situ - but access to the top, door-side torx screw is tight. I managed it using a flexible handle + 1/4" socket + torx bit using small rotations & patience. Ring magnet can be moved and function tested (by refitting cover with 2 or 3 screws) without removing whole mechanism.

I've had the motor off some years ago to fix a problem, but recently, I've pulled only the cover off due to time constraints and no place to work on it that's covered to protect from all the rain we've been having.

So how to locate this ring with only the cover off?

[phebert27]

hi,
thanks for such a great "how to"
i am a little confused though.
if i use this scheme (quoted above) i do not need to use diodes?
i take it that the above is conected to a relay.

any help would be great.
thanks

So I made the connection the way the scheme I receive from the alarm installer said to make it. Which is to take PIN 24 and PIN 25 from the white clip on the module. I had to run my own wires to these PINS, the doors lock fine, when I unlock the doors immediately lock again and then I try a secon time and they unlock. Second problem is the the driver's side door will lock, but will not unlock with the rest of the doors even when done a secone time.

Anyone know what I can do to correct this?

[coolx7]

hi read quite a bit and i still dont seem to understand what causes my window to go up then jerk down and i have to tap the switch to get it all the way up . cleaned all rails and sliding pieces and lubed with silicone lubricant. i even had the glass out and cleaned that part too. still does the same is my motor dying? or something else? goes down fine its jsut going up is the issue and regulator is riveted onto door 1993 325is coupe. no bolts.

[Marknhl]

what about the sliding pieces that window slides up through on the top? Sounds like the regulator is going bad?

[Marknhl]

regulator seems fine all the teeth are still there and what sliding pieces are you talking about that are on the top? i only saw the pieces on the side rail and the pieces below the glass that i have cleaned.

nothing special I was just thinking of the rubber window seal parts that the window glass has to slide up through as it makes its way to the top and then the window is closed. Is there anything slowing the window down there? There is an issue somewhere, you just need to find it. Or the regulator needs to be replaced.

[Marknhl]

i cleaned all the rubber parts too and even had the side view mirror off to take the rubber off to clean. it worked great without any rubber seals or guides , but once i put all that stuff back it just went back to go up then jerk back down so i'm starting to think maybe motor? or is something else wrong? passenger side is all clean and works great and rubbers same age too with no issues just driver side .

hey sorry to not get back to you sooner. It sounds like you're on track though. I would add back piece by piece until you find the exact culprit of the problem. If it works with all those components removed then one of those components is the problem I would expect. Something not allowing it to slide properly - or something that is providing just enough force to cause the regulator to think, "I'm sensing resistance, I must have reached the top of the window."

[M3C]

I am noticing that after instaling a new battery the window open-close problem described above is gone.
Can someone explain this, it has to do with the voltage.

[DEAC0NFR0ST]

sorry for digging up an old thread, I found the wire for deadlock without using diodes from lock to unlock wire, its pin 13 on block in the middle, you can tape the lock wire on to it together, the signal wire to trigger lock and unlock are also on it, I forgot the pin number or colour but I can check if needed.

anyway, I have a little problem with the boot/trunk lock motor, all locks working, driver/passinger/gas filler, except boot/trunk won't respond, tested the 3 wire signal connector on boot/trunk lock motor, its sending lock singal no problem, but the 2 wires connector that actually give groiund and +12v are not getting anything at any giving time, the should be both ground when idle, lock wire switches to +12v when locking, but there is no power going to either of the wire lock or unlock, wire colour are blue/grey and white, same one as the wires on the bloack connector on the Module, and they are getting the right +12v/ground at the right time when locking and unlocking, anyone have any idea why the trunk/boot lock motor is not getting power? I looked at the diagram and they are looped around so its all coming from the same feed.

thanks

[josebaez1]

Thanks for the 411. I just finish fixing the window inch problem on my '92 325IS. a cut piece of a staw that will fit over the shaft will work wonders for keeping Magnetic wheel in palce. By the way, Patrick....Where the heck is Estonia?

[csecse]

sorry for digging up an old thread, I found the wire for deadlock without using diodes from lock to unlock wire, its pin 13 on block in the middle, you can tape the lock wire on to it together, the signal wire to trigger lock and unlock are also on it, I forgot the pin number or colour but I can check if needed.

anyway, I have a little problem with the boot/trunk lock motor, all locks working, driver/passinger/gas filler, except boot/trunk won't respond, tested the 3 wire signal connector on boot/trunk lock motor, its sending lock singal no problem, but the 2 wires connector that actually give groiund and +12v are not getting anything at any giving time, the should be both ground when idle, lock wire switches to +12v when locking, but there is no power going to either of the wire lock or unlock, wire colour are blue/grey and white, same one as the wires on the bloack connector on the Module, and they are getting the right +12v/ground at the right time when locking and unlocking, anyone have any idea why the trunk/boot lock motor is not getting power? I looked at the diagram and they are looped around so its all coming from the same feed.

thanks

It sounds like the wiring harness to your trunk lid has probably gone bad. This is a very common problem. See:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?t=79896
http://www.bmwpugetsound.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=42623

When I inspected the wiring harness on my E36 after having license plate light problems, I found that all but 3 of the wires were either broken or had bare wire completely exposed. This also caused the central locking to completely go out on my car for a few days.

I recommend inspecting the length of the trunk wiring harness (by pulling the rubber wire cover out from the trunk lid and car body and pushing it back to expose the wires) as soon as possible. Frayed wires in this harness can cause serious issues for your car.

[Ian B]

HELP SOMEONE PLEASE, I've purchased an alarm online mananged to install Alarm and immob without any probs, however I can't work out the remote central locking, the instructions that came with alarm are not very clear, it gives me 6 different ways of wiring up central locking but I'm unsure which way is right for my car i don't want to go cutting wrong wires by mistake. I have a E36 325i coupe, right hand drive. Any help with what wires goes where would be a great help, wires on alarm are as follows

Orange = spare
Orange/black = spare or ground on -Neg setup
White = Door open
white/Black = Door close
Yellow = +12v
Yellow/black = +12v

rest of wires I've connected as instructions ie perm live/ ign live / ground etc

[itsmeonbmw]

I've got a 1993 E36 Coupe model (325 engine) and I've spent today installing a Scorpion alarm. This comes with remote control of the central locking using a couple of N/O N/C relays installed within the brains of the unit. So here I am trawling about the internet looking for someone else whos already gone through the pain of figuring out the cars central locking wires.

Why has this sticky got 7 pages? Looks like I came to the same conclusion as lots of others, where I didn't understand the text without pictures.......

In summary, find your Central Locking module, and please remember this post only applies to those with a 1993 E36. The wiring diagrams changed after this year so I can't guarantee that this will work for you but it should.

Look for the nice white plug, and locate coloured wires White/Red, White/Grey and White/Brown/Yellow.
Cut White/Grey but not too close to the original plug.
Strip White/Red so you can solder another wire onto it
Strip White/Brown/Yellow so you can solder another wire onto it.

Okay so far?

To lock the car, your alarm brain/relay will have to have a N/O contact available. Wire +12V on one side and wire the White/Red onto the other. When you tell the brain to lock, it will send +12V to the CL module and all doors will lock.

To unlock the car, your alarm brain/relay (second relay) will have to have a changeover contact where you have a common with N/C and N/O contacts. Take the White/Grey wire that is still connected to the CL module (remember you cut this one) and connect it to the N/C contact. Take the other side of the White/Grey wire and connect it to the Common. And lastly, take the White/Brown/Yellow and connect it to the N/O contact side.

Connect everything up and test.

It worked for me and I'm very pleased with it.

Keith

[LincolnW]

Can someone please re-host the pictures!!!

[froggy47]

Inching problem,

need pics.

[knickfan5745]

Inching problem,

need pics.

Could use this too.

[froggy47]

Here is what I found.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ajUL8qQAfMI&feature=plcp[/ame]

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtFVovR6NDI&feature=plcp[/ame]

Bottom line is I need motors.

[Hun73rdk]

Cry the pictures a gone :/

[froggy47]

Cry the pictures a gone :/

Videos are still working fine, must be an issue at your end. Sorry.

Try youtube and search on froggy, bmw inching

[mywidebody02]

since this in a old post that probably explains why the pictures are gone. Does anyone have them? I installed an after market alarm and i cant get the double lock to work.

[whitby1]

please make pics so they can be seen again would be a great help

[98M3rt]

Does anyone know the color of the wire that attaches to the white wire that has a molex connector on it? I can't find it.

Also, I need to find the 4-pin square molex connector. I have the male attached to the harness, but I can't find the female end.

Searched on the threads on pretty much every page

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