ar all modells e36 have 12 pins connectors??? I hav 318 is and I didn't find it.help help help!where is it????? HELP
i dont have a CL box like the pic i have a 325is and i cant figure out how to get the lock and unlock to work also my alm goes off if i disarm it after a couple minutes maybe feedback could someone pm me some help thanks
wait! rather new alarms could plug-in to your 12-pin alarm connector behind your glovebox, without doing any splicing of the car wiring! just need minor work (such as diodes in the alarm wiring, for the windows and maybe sunroof), and female connectors for the harness and that's it!
Are the people who can't find it struggling as it is on the other side? (RHD)
Looked at my 92 320 today and only saw one box behind the glove box... assuming I was looking on the wrong side....doh!
Also the wiring for the siren, is it always attached to the loom in the engine bay? looked on both sides to no avail
Cheers
Phil
Hey I Had The Same Problem To Find Out If It Is Still Activated Unlock All The Doors Open The Trunk Get In Close The Drivers Door And Leave The Truck Open Turn The Car To The On Position 5 Times (do Not Start The Car) After You Cycle Thru The Process You Should See Your Led Stay Lit Or Hear The Siren If Not Try Again After About Three Attempts And No Results You Will Be Able To Assume That Your Alarm Is Not Functioning If It Does Show You Have An Alarm Then Your In The Same Boat As Me Trying Top Find A New Key Fob If You Know Where To Get One Besides The Dealer Let Me Know Thanks
hi can some one show me which wires go where.i bouht an after market remote engine start alarm off ebay and having problems wiring it in to the central locking and getting it working with the central locking
do i need a switch in the engine bay?
cheers dave
HELP PLEASE --92 325is---I have the same window problem, with the exception that sometimes, it get stuck in the down or up position for days or it goes down when you press the button to go up. Could it this be caused by the same magnet ring...
THIS IS KILLING ME...I FREEZE MY FACE WITH BAD SNOW STORM BECAUSE OF THIS WINDOW TROUBLE...THE ONLY GOOD PART I GUESS WITH THIS is that I no longer go Drive thru at any fast food place...
can you help car has been off road for 20 months and battery flat, single button key with new battery and new 12v car battery, alarm has been triggered by fitting new battery hazards are flashing and siren screaming until battery disconnected, siren can be disconnected from circuit board inside horn case and hazard fuse can be pulled. car key has been able to central lock car from both front doors but not able to arm or disarm system.
behind glovebox looks like alarm module has been cut out previously as there are 5 wire end with no volts on any all wires are black 4 of heavy and 1 light gauge have tried to synch key with instructions to no avail.
How can i deactivate hazards and siren please any help much appreciated
Good post.. OP mentioned that the "comfort signal must be POSITIVE"... What does this comfort signal do? Is this pin 12 on the pre-wired alarm connector plug?
Just wondering if this is the wire I need to get my alarm to roll up my windows as an aux channel.
[quote=patrick S;3707318]let me explain central locking once again as this seems to be the most difficult part:
did you notice that you have to cut lock wire?
it works this way: you apply +12v to deadlock wire( white /red), doors deadlock. then you open lock wire (white/gray)with relay( by doing this you cut +12v from door lock to central unit) that way cl unit understands that you are starting to open door lock. now you apply this +12v from that lock wire end that comes from door side to unlock wire( white /brown/ yellow stripes) which completes unlocking process.
look at chemes in this post, if you examine closer then you see word "cut" at the left bottom of scheme:
there are no pictures to see i cant make head or tail of this as u refer to the pics witch arnt there
Last edited by happyreaper; 06-22-2008 at 07:57 AM. Reason: missed a word out
I'm having trouble as well I can get the central locking to lock just fine but I CANNOT unlock it I have tried all of the recommended ways (diodes and what have you) and cannot get the car to unlock! is there something I am missing? also should I be using NO or NC signals for the alarm any help would be awesome thanks! (using a clifford concept 60 btw)
Thanks to Patrick S, my inching window problem is solved. the instruction was very clear. but now i have another problem with my other door ( passenger window ) , sometime when i push the botton it will not roll up. it just stays still, othertime push up botton, it will just roll down !!! Please help !!!!!!
note: i have checked the roll as per instruction and the roll stays in right position.
thanks in advance.
Are the instructions that easy to follow on the first page? Is it one of the things where you have to take it apart to understand it?
After reading the instructions on the first page I was kinda lost...
yeah has anyone got the window magnet pics can they upload them again?
also my alarm locks the doors and trunck but not the fuel cap??
does only the fuel cap lock when dead locked??
DON"T you dare cut NOTHING! there is no need. just map the factory harness connector and figure the connection with the instructions form the aftermarket alarm and that's it! At most, you may need a diode and some VERY MINOR splicing (to multily ends, ie for windows/sunroof, etc) at the end of the harness...
In case you have not sorted it out, you want to pulse the BMWNA/Alpine alarm connector unlock input with +12V to unlock the car, and the alarm connector unlock and lock inputs (through diodes) with +12V to double-lock the car. If you continue to apply +12V to both those inputs, you can also close the windows, and the sunroof on 9/95-onward cars.
Hi ,i'm trying to install this keyless entry on my e36 316i 1994.Can someone help me with this were to connect every wire of this module,to wich wire color on the car,could i connect this to prewired 12pin plug under glovebox to wich pins?Thanks.
The scheme of the module is found here "4freeimagehost.com/show.php?i=7873117bb1d6.jpg"
Hi guys sorry to bring this post up i know it's really old....
I have an issue with the alarm which i just newly installed It's a Portman alarm made by maplins(UK) The problem i have is once i arm the alarm it locks the doors and unlocks within 45 seconds but this time period after that it refuses to unlock the doors.
I dont think theres a problem with the wiring to the central locks as it locks and unlocks in 45 seconds after that time i wont unlock/lock.
I have a 318 IS 92' eg
My question is : I cant seem to get the alarm into the valet mode can it be the ignition wires ? i couldnt figure out what the key-on cabe was on the steering harness so i just connected it to the acc is this correct?
Maybe the alarm thinks the car is running thats why it wont unlock?
I have the picture diagram for the alarm and can take picture of my wiring so you guys can double check for me?
I know this is a really old post and i would be really happy if you guys can advice me.
Thanks
hey i have the keyless entry box that comes with the e36 the one that is supposed to go under the glove box do i need anything else i have a 1997 model
Hi
Fantastic forum! you've got me started on my first project.
Currently my car has central locking and I am trying to add Remote facility to it. I have bought RIGHTCLICK's KEYLESS ENTRY SYSTEM, but have no idea where to start, I have images of the car 'brain' (under the glove box).
image 1 - xxx.masmediauk.com/images/BMW-brain1a.JPG
image 2 - xxx.masmediauk.com/images/BMW-brain2a.JPG
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance
hoping someone may help- Patrick S you know your stuff, and have helpd me heaps, though I only just joined forum.
Have 93 e36 325is with factory alarm. under bonnet siren part -which also has key on/off and remote sensors -malfunctioned a few years back. removed it (after turning key to off) to fix, and found car still ran!!! so left it out.
However recently dis-connected battery for other work and upon re-copnnection found alarm is now reactivated. - Hazards flash and engine immobilised. anyone know how to de activate alarm given under bonnet part is removed?
if it helps anyone, the motor cover can be removed in situ - but access to the top, door-side torx screw is tight. I managed it using a flexible handle + 1/4" socket + torx bit using small rotations & patience. Ring magnet can be moved and function tested (by refitting cover with 2 or 3 screws) without removing whole mechanism.
on my 93 325i, i have a problem with my drivers side window, when i push to up botton it will roll up but it seems to be off track can anyone help.
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