Clutch problem?

[gixxerss]

Have a 93 850ci 6speed and drove about 50 miles with no issues. Waiting at a long stoplight with the clutch not engaged and in neutral. Put it in gear and had an almost total loss of power. Gave it gas in first and it was just creeping forward. Gave it tons of gas but it took a long time to accelerate. Shifting through the gears was fine but again really low on power. In neutral with the clutch not engaged I can hear and feel what seems to be the throw out bearing chattering. Wasn’t doing this before. Depress the clutch and no noise.
Im not very familiar with the clutch components on the 8. Made it the 50 miles back home because it was mostly freeway thank goodness.
Any one face similar symptoms? Any advice is appreciated.

[cartoonz]

Clutch time. New disk, pressure plate, bearings and rear seal.

[gixxerss]

Started it today and it’s just seems low on power. Takes longer than normal for the engine to accelerate and it’s parked in neutral. I’ve had plenty of clutches go bad in my time but none like this.

[cartoonz]

so it isn't just the clutch slipping then?
You opined that it was clutch related in the original post...
try this...
get car moving, then put it from 1st to 3rd and let out the clutch and rev the engine.
Does the tach rev but car doesn't pull? New clutch.

Or are you saying the engine just doesn't rev when you hit the gas?

[gixxerss]

so it isn't just the clutch slipping then?
You opined that it was clutch related in the original post...
try this...
get car moving, then put it from 1st to 3rd and let out the clutch and rev the engine.
Does the tach rev but car doesn't pull? New clutch.

Or are you saying the engine just doesn't rev when you hit the gas?

for sure there is a serious chattering with the clutch not engaged. As soon as I press the clutch the chatter is gone. As for the the power, the car idles lower than normal and is slow to accelerate. First to third the car falls on its face. No power and no revving like the clutch is not holding. No idiot lights are on and it’s not missing. Today the chatter was much less. Car was cold. It could be two separate problems but they did occur at the same time. Long 50 mile drive. Driving home last night I had to go back in 4th for the slightest grade and lug the engine just to keep the speed up.

[cartoonz]

sounds like you have multiple issues.
Are there any stored codes?

[gixxerss]

sounds like you have multiple issues.
Are there any stored codes?

havent checked the stored codes but will in the AM

[gixxerss]

sounds like you have multiple issues.
Are there any stored codes?

read the codes. Showing a 10, crankshaft sensor. Would this cause the loss of power?

[cartoonz]

yes, it definitely would.
what are you using to pull the codes?

[gixxerss]

yes, it definitely would.
what are you using to pull the codes?

a peake scan tool. Rs5 I believe.

[lloydsss]

I have a different problem my pedal doesn’t want to come all the way up unless I pull it up it does snap up but slowly by itself
The clutch does disengage but I only seem to have about 3 inches of travel on the pedal
to my memory it seem like it was more originally
suggestions please

[lloydsss]

I just went back a few pages I see this issue was just addressed
so my question is do I just cut to the chase and do a new clutch slave slave cylinder?

[ByMW]

Gixxerss: the manual transmission normally makes a lot of rattling noise in neutral with clutch pedal out. It is especially noticeable inside the garage. Noise goes away when clutch is depressed. I think your problem is “limp home mode” (one half of engine shut down). The “crankshaft sensor” code from the Peake tool is not specific. There is a crank sensor which reads the teeth at the front of the crankshaft (one for each side) and a cylinder ID sensor that reads ignition spark in wires #6 and #12 (one each side). Either of these can cause limp mode. If it is the cylinder ID sensor, the root cause can be anything ignition related (not usually the sensor itself). Search for all these terms and you will find lots of advice (but no simple solution – the car is ambiguous about its engine management). You will probably need to determine which side is out (exhaust cooler), then start swapping parts to find the culprit. For example, if you suspect the crank sensor, trace the wires from the sensors to the plugs just below the oil filler and change right and left. If the cool exhaust changes sides, you have the answer.

[razman850]

I did not know you can switch over the crank sensor plugs, i thought that will stop the motor from running if you have them mixed up, unless it was meant to switch the sensor itself but again that is not an easy swap.

[gixxerss]

Thanks very much. You confirmed what I’ve been discovering over these past days trying to figure it out. Passenger side bank is not working. Pulled the mass airflow sensor connector when on and no change. Pulled the drivers and it shut off. I’ll start swapping parts and hopefully find it. I did notice a connector floating around the bottom of the oil filter. Not connected to anything etc. Don’t know where it goes but I’ll have to look harder. Don’t remember seeing it before.

[ByMW]

razman850 - yes, you would need to swap and move the entire sensor to evaluate it - don't just switch connections!

[cartoonz]

Thanks very much. You confirmed what I’ve been discovering over these past days trying to figure it out. Passenger side bank is not working. Pulled the mass airflow sensor connector when on and no change. Pulled the drivers and it shut off. I’ll start swapping parts and hopefully find it. I did notice a connector floating around the bottom of the oil filter. Not connected to anything etc. Don’t know where it goes but I’ll have to look harder. Don’t remember seeing it before.

Keep in mind the MAF on the driver side is for the passenger side bank, and vice versa...

[gixxerss]

Keep in mind the MAF on the driver side is for the passenger side bank, and vice versa...

thanks for reminding me of that. One at a time I swapped the MAF’s and coils, checked the distributor caps, wires, connections and nothing. It’s the drivers side bank not firing.(passenger MAF etc.) Does sound like the “limp home mode” described earlier. More research and last resort are the crank sensors. I didn’t swap connectors but may do that since if I have to change one I’m changing both along with the cylinder ID sensors.

[cartoonz]

thanks for reminding me of that. One at a time I swapped the MAF’s and coils, checked the distributor caps, wires, connections and nothing. It’s the drivers side bank not firing.(passenger MAF etc.) Does sound like the “limp home mode” described earlier. More research and last resort are the crank sensors. I didn’t swap connectors but may do that since if I have to change one I’m changing both along with the cylinder ID sensors.

Sure both fuel pumps are good?

[gixxerss]

Sure both fuel pumps are good?

have’nt checked those. Is there an easy way? I do smell a hint of fuel. I attributed it to the one side not firing but unturned fuel present.

[razman850]

to check the fuel pumps i take out the cabin air filter housing in front of windshield to get access to the two rubber hoses that connect to the fuel rails,
i open one at a time and use a wire to jump the fuel pump relay which are in the ecu box. the two relays that are toward the front of the car are the fuel pump relays , the forward or first one runs the drivers side pump.
i did this yesterday, jump the top middle and left middle slot and it will also make the ecu box fan run .

[gixxerss]

checked the pumps. The drivers side bank is the side that isn’t firing. Pulled the front relay and car wouldn’t start. Pulled the one behind and it ran as before, drivers side down etc. jumped as directed and pump wouldn’t run. I may not have done it correctly. I’ll have to research a bit more before I assume it’s the crank sensor. Good thing I like the car because it’s trying my patience!

[TedBobo]

If you're in Irvine, there's quite a few good wrenchers in SoCalEights that could lend a hand.

[gixxerss]

If you're in Irvine, there's quite a few good wrenchers in SoCalEights that could lend a hand.

that would be awesome. I’ve learned tons from this car but clearly not enough. At this point I’ll be ordering the crank sensors and install but not knowing 100% that it will fix the issue. At least I’ll have new sensors for what it’s worth. If anyone has a little time in the next week or two to help me diagnose it’s appreciated.