dead starter?

[325bob]

she groaned but started last coupla tries, but now nothing, thought battery quit, nope 12.65 volts, bump starts fine, no power to either side of the clutch safety switch when starter is tried?, this means ignition switch,correct? also checked fuse 31 and switched light green relays,wasn't sure which, if any, are starter relay?which color wire should go hot from switch when starter mode is tried?Just trying to avoid the dreded starter removal,at all costs. just checked the black/yellow ig.switch wire is going hot when starter is tried.

[bmwdirtracer]

Check fuse 45. It feeds the clutch safety switch.

[325bob]

Check fuse 45. It feeds the clutch safety switch.

ok, bit the bullet and tore the starter out in 40 min., cheated on the manifold left fuel hooked up,pulled it forward just enough to get starter out, seems weak on the 400 amp charger//booster...!

[bmwdirtracer]

Yeah, but....you said you had no power to the clutch safety switch. If you don't have power there, it really doesn't matter whether the starter's bad or good.

[WELSCH325i]

Check the ground on it. I tore mine all apart, replaced the starter and it still didn't work. Got a brilliant idea to check the ground, and it was almost rusted completely apart.

[325bob]

Check the ground on it. I tore mine all apart, replaced the starter and it still didn't work. Got a brilliant idea to check the ground, and it was almost rusted completely apart.

I tore the end plate off, the brushes are burnt,and it smells bad,waiting for my internet starter from Cal.

[bmwdirtracer]

http://wedophones.com/Manuals/BMW/19...g%20Manual.pdf

Hi Bob,

Bad starter or not, if you do not have power to the clutch safety switch (aka starter immobilization switch), it isn't going to start. You said you had no power there.

See page 121 of the adobe document (BMW page 1240.0-00)

Power from fuse 45 goes through the switch, only when the clutch is depressed and fuse 45 is hot, and this activates the EWS, allowing starter activation.

[325bob]

http://wedophones.com/Manuals/BMW/19...g%20Manual.pdf

Hi Bob,

Bad starter or not, if you do not have power to the clutch safety switch (aka starter immobilization switch), it isn't going to start. You said you had no power there.

See page 121 of the adobe document (BMW page 1240.0-00)

Power from fuse 45 goes through the switch, only when the clutch is depressed and fuse 45 is hot, and this activates the EWS, allowing starter activation.

I'll check that out, but my new bosch starter arrived, but its missing the smaller solenoid wire stud, the inside one? is that important? The sellers photo shows a correct solenoid, waiting for their reply.

[325bob]

http://wedophones.com/Manuals/BMW/19...g%20Manual.pdf

Hi Bob,

Bad starter or not, if you do not have power to the clutch safety switch (aka starter immobilization switch), it isn't going to start. You said you had no power there.

See page 121 of the adobe document (BMW page 1240.0-00)

Power from fuse 45 goes through the switch, only when the clutch is depressed and fuse 45 is hot, and this activates the EWS, allowing starter activation.

I'll check that out, but my new bosch starter arrived, but its missing the smaller solenoid wire stud, the inside one? is that important? The sellers photo shows a correct solenoid, waiting for their reply. I tried swapping solenoids ,but of course, the pistons are different diameters, I guess i could swap the whole fulcrum unit.

[bmwdirtracer]

One small stud is the activation wire; the other is the "unloader relay" connection, which is an output.

Personally, I'd want the correct starter, and I wouldn't mess with swapping pieces.

[325bob]

One small stud is the activation wire; the other is the "unloader relay" connection, which is an output.

Personally, I'd want the correct starter, and I wouldn't mess with swapping pieces.

I hear ya, but after waiting 4DAYS for it to travel the last 40 miles, I got impatient,since it went 3000 miles in the previous 4 days, what does the "unloader" unload?

[bmwdirtracer]

To the best of my knowledge, the unloader relay temporarily shuts off certain high-draw items while the starter is being activated. In my years as a tech, I've never actually had to question it, I've just hooked it up....so if anyone out there understands this function better, I will appreciate the wisdom.

I would, however, strongly question the wisdom of installing a starter that's not correct. If the wiring connections are wrong....so might the gear spacing be incorrect. I always insist on returning a part that's obviously wrong, because installation of said part most often causes financial pain.

Just between you and I (and other viewers here), my boss often tries to buy cheap e-bay parts - for his OWN cars, not customer cars. Then when they come in, he insists I "make them work". He's my boss....I try....but at least 75% of the time, it's a really bad decision, and I end up doing the job more than once. Hey, I get paid, but nobody's happy.

When I buy parts for my own car, I buy the best, because I really don't like working on my own cars, after working on other people's cars all day.

Just my 2 cents.

[325bob]

I'm not cheap, just frugal, the solenoid swap worked, the reply from seller was barely intelligible English, as usual, but the part did say bosch,made in Australia?, Every Chinese part I get is a little off, but the price is so outrageously low I think its worth the headaches, although the ICV never worked, they promised to replace it, never saw another one 2yrs.ago. My ABS sensors were 82% cheaper than BMW,and are going strong after 15k..

[bmwdirtracer]

Since you mentioned ABS sensors, it just so happens that I diagnosed a bad sensor on a Mercedes last week, ordered a brand new Ate part, in Ate box, and installed it....and still had the same fault, and no reading on that corner. So I swapped sensors from the other side, and voila, the code move to the other corner. (Brand new OEM part from Germany, bad, right out of the box.) Hey, it had a warranty, and I had a new one the next day)

I was not suggesting you were cheap, by the way.... just saying that I'm basically lazy.

[325bob]

Since you mentioned ABS sensors, it just so happens that I diagnosed a bad sensor on a Mercedes last week, ordered a brand new Ate part, in Ate box, and installed it....and still had the same fault, and no reading on that corner. So I swapped sensors from the other side, and voila, the code move to the other corner. (Brand new OEM part from Germany, bad, right out of the box.) Hey, it had a warranty, and I had a new one the next day)

I was not suggesting you were cheap, by the way.... just saying that I'm basically lazy.

No problem, I'm cheap and lazy!, on a related note, my boy ordered a 300Z fender,and got an Acura part, they refunded it, and said just keep it!

[325bob]

Yeah, but....you said you had no power to the clutch safety switch. If you don't have power there, it really doesn't matter whether the starter's bad or good.

update; Chris, I had the wrong switch, didn't see the one hidd
en behind the lever, I guess the one I was checking is cruise control unloader?

[bmwdirtracer]

On my '01 M5, there's only one switch for both purposes. I see that there are, apparently, two switches on your clutch pedal, and one is indeed for the cruise, which runs a two-switch layout with the brake pedal, to disconnect the cruise if either pedal is used.

Just to confuse the issue further, the clutch / starter switch uses a brown wire with a black stripe which MUST get hot, to make the starter work.....and the cruise control switch runs a BLACK WIRE WITH A BROWN STRIPE, , which must NOT get hot if you want your cruise to work. Thanks, BMW......