Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: need advice for a build gone horribly wrong

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    central WI, USA
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    1995 M3

    Question need advice for a build gone horribly wrong

    I'll keep this as succinct as I can. I need to know the next steps to help me reach my dream with my E36 //M3.

    THE STORY: bought all the right drivetrain stuff for a I-Prepared build. 24lbs injectors, head work, new valves and seats, Schrick 276/270, VAC high-perf valve springs / new hydraulic lifters / steel alloy, VANOS shim, Turner chip custom spec: Conforti timing mod w/ 7400RPM ceiling +100 idle RPM, .5mm bore w/ bottom end rebuild, all new ARP fasteners over stock for head as well as mains, pan baffles, new VANOS, new timing chains / guards / tensioners, aFe CAI, Bimmerworld Magnaflow 3" race exhaust, new Sachs stock clutch, Stewart high-perf water pump, stock radiator for now, fan-delete (lower t-stat, additive, temp switch).

    car has been to THREE SEPARATE HORRIBLE charlatan "mechanics". Had to bounce from each due to weird circumstances in each instance. car has been cosmetically abused by each, engine is not put together correctly (valve tick?!, leaks terribly). I blame myself for the troubles as I trusted ignorant people. At this point, the rings are not yet seated as I am uncomfortable revving the engine at all. The engine wants to quit without my foot on the pedal. I am unsure about their vacuum plumbing, their gasket sealing, their handling of the brittle ignition / management wiring along the top of the engine, and basically that this thing could even be buttoned up properly to run. I do not know what to do.

    I am not even angry anymore. I am more or less feeling empty that there are all good pieces and care put to ASSEMBLING the correct mixture of parts for this, but that nothing is put together solid. The bottom end of the engine is what it is. I am willing to continue knowing that a dunce did that work to some sort of general standard when it comes to machine work and torque wrenches. If something lets go there, so be it at this point.....
    The biggest concern is with the intake, ignition, and head / valvetrain. I want it to all be stupendous when it is put together correctly. My question to all of you:

    IS IT REASONABLE TO HAVE THE RIGHT MECHANIC LEAVE THE ENGINE IN, PULL THE HEAD FOR INSPECTION, DROP THE PAN FOR INSPECTION, AND PUT IT TOGETHER AGAIN AS NEW FOR MY TRACK ENJOYMENT?? I realize I need new gaskets and fasteners along the way despite the ones that are there never really being used...

    I am trying to avoid an even larger bill moving forward, but realize that the right job takes more work at this point to essentially undo potential trouble before just starting over. This build has not even had a chance yet, and it's been 3.5 years. Please help. What would you do? Where would you start? I can provide more info as needed. Thanks; I hope a good discussion can start from this.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Deer Park wa.
    Posts
    32
    My Cars
    PRO3
    First off I feel for you. We have seen a few builds like this that come in after going from shop to shop. I'll tell you what I would if I was taking on the job. First thing is pulling the engine down to see how it was put together it may need to come out and start over but as it comes apart we may be able to understand that the bottom end is OK. We would need to take it as it comes. For us to put our name on it we would make the call on how far down to pull it. There is no easy or cheap way to do it right and you just need to find a shop you can trust that dose good work. Find builds that they have done so you can see there work. I'm sorry that there is no easy way to know how far down you need to go.
    Hank Moore
    Advanced Auto Fabrication
    11911E. Empire Bld E1
    Spokane Valley wa. 99206
    509-924-7006

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    MD
    Posts
    7,222
    My Cars
    996, S13, E46 E36, C4
    Man, sorry to hear about your situation. It's tough to go through this, I am sure. This is actually the very reason why I prefer to buy built cars when I am looking for a modified car. Many times it is cheaper and much less headache. The other cars I buy are junk. Check out leftfordeadcars on Instagram to see what I mean. lol

    My advise given these assumptions:
    -You can do some of the work yourself
    -You can hopefully pull the engine yourself or with someone local's help.
    -You can partially disassemble the current engine yourself, or with someone's help
    -You aren't planning to run any races for the rest of this year.
    -Since you are extremely worried about the people who have touched your car in the past, the engine must come out.

    First thing I would do is advertise the longblock to see if someone might be interested in the whole thing. By longblock, I mean everything between the valvecover and oil pan. No injectors, intake manifold, throttle body, etc. You might be surprised someone might be interested in it for a decent price. I have sold a lot of parts and have been surprised a few times.

    While you wait for potential buyers for the longblock, check with a reputable builder to see how much labor would be required to disassemble the shortblock, check it over and reassemble. If the cost is close to the cost of rebuilding another shortblock, just have another shortblock built and sell off your current one. Extra labor hours can likely be needed when working with another builder's mistakes. Probably just best to start fresh. There are buyers who would be interested in your current one just for the parts and bore.

    Once you know for sure the cost of rebuilding your current shortblock vs. building a new one, then decide which route to go. If building a new shortblock makes sense, advertise your shortblock for sale immediately.

    While you wait for potential buyers, I would pull the engine and transmission. Take off all of the parts that are somewhat easy to remove and set them aside for the future rebuild. Reuse your built head. Once the shortblock is rectified, then have the builder put it all back together.

    Hope that helps you make a decision. I know it's not an easy one. Just so many variables.
    Last edited by Andy; 08-27-2018 at 01:54 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Cinci
    Posts
    114
    My Cars
    1998 M3/4/5
    If I were you I would pull the motor and go through it yourself. Assembling a motor is not hard if you take your time, as questions and research as you go. I currently have my engine out for a refresh after getting some external head gasket leaking. There are lots of youtube videos showing each task and this way you know that YOU have done it right.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Location
    Posts
    7,440
    My Cars
    F150, Suburban, M3
    Since when is a Conforti tune relevant?

    "It's not the people who vote that count, it's the people who count the votes."
    -DNC

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Bolton
    Posts
    636
    My Cars
    98' Z3M, 02' 911 C4S
    I would not want to be on the track with an engine that could let go for my or my track mates safety if I knew what you just described. That's just not safe for anyone. This has much less to do with cost of an engine or dealing with the knowledge of the bottom end being poorly assembled. Think about the fluids and other issues you can introduce at high speeds when a rod lets go because some idiot didn't do something properly resulting in you or someone else ending up in a wall. Just wouldn't want to do that so I'd advise you send it to a proper shop and have them break down the engine as far as necessary to ensure it was done correctly, or do it yourself.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Springfield, IL
    Posts
    2,491
    My Cars
    '95m3(Avus)/996tt/4.8is
    First, I would find a GOOD mechanic. Call/research/ask for rec's/etc. Be willing to TRAVEL! Once you find one that you can TRUST, talk through the project with them and get their opinion.

    After that is settled decide which option you want to go through -> DIY and learn (spend time) or Hire the shop (spend $$$).

    Also, consider doing ANYTHING you can to get the car started, even swapping in a known good engine for the time being if you are willing to do it yourself. Can always part out your race motor and reset, or have it looked over by being patient. Once you have a running/driving/fun track car, the rest can be patiently sorted through as time and money allows.

    Can always sell your backup motor for most/all of your money back once the race engine is sorted. And will have been able to spend many weekends thrashing the rest of the car in the meantime!

Similar Threads

  1. weekend adventure gone horribly wrong
    By kopaczjm in forum 1988 - 1996 (E34)
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 10-15-2012, 10:28 PM
  2. fitting heated interior gone horribly wrong
    By Raf555 in forum 2006 - 2012 (E90, E91, E92, E93)
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 12-31-2010, 12:21 PM
  3. Late night project (B16 tranny into a DA) - GONE HORRIBLY WRONG
    By n00bjabi in forum Pacific Northwest - US
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 01-08-2008, 08:02 AM
  4. Replies: 38
    Last Post: 02-21-2007, 10:29 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •