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Thread: Rear camber arms- What does everyone use?

  1. #26
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    On topic: Rogue http://www.rogueengineering.com/Rogu...ARCA_p_55.html

    I have a rear camber&toe experience.
    e46rear2.jpg
    Expensive right rear collision. Air bag, wheel, ARCA; all busted.
    Replaced broken parts.
    RR toe super toe'd out. No amount of raising ride height and adjusting camber got RR anywhere close to 0 toe.
    At suggestion of a racer, replaced Trailing Arm (swing arm).
    Car now aligns and 0 toe in right rear.

    My takeaway: I want a soft ARCA. I want it to act like a fuse. Better to bend a $100 easily replacable part than to tweak something more expensive and labor intensive.
    Last edited by satakal; 10-22-2018 at 11:41 AM.
    none

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by satakal View Post
    On topic: Rogue http://www.rogueengineering.com/Rogu...ARCA_p_55.html

    I have a rear camber&toe experience.
    e46rear2.jpg
    Expensive right rear collision. Air bag, wheel, ARCA; all busted.
    Replaced broken parts.
    RR toe super toe'd out. No amount of raising ride height and adjusting camber got RR anywhere close to 0 toe.
    At suggestion of a racer, replaced Trailing Arm (swing arm).
    Car now aligns and 0 toe in right rear.

    My takeaway: I want a soft ARCA. I want it to act like a fuse. Better to bend a $100 easily replacable part than to tweak something more expensive and labor intensive.
    yep, the turners are hollow so they'll give first. They also sell replacement sleeves for around $40

  3. #28
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    I like how the Turner arms fail. A+
    2016juneTurner.png

    I hate how the cheap steel parts fail. F
    2015febSteel.png

  4. #29
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    My main worry is to be able to have 0 toe out- I'm down for a tad bit of toe in, but it's still not clear to me whether I'll be able to 0 out toe/ prevent toe out when I get rid of my camber.
    Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit

  5. #30
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    delrin offset RTABs are cheap, or go nerptech offset bearings if you're feeling fancy.

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by awp235 View Post
    My main worry is to be able to have 0 toe out- I'm down for a tad bit of toe in, but it's still not clear to me whether I'll be able to 0 out toe/ prevent toe out when I get rid of my camber.
    Has nothing to do with the camber arms. You can buy the cheapest ones or the most expensive ones - you're still gonna have the same issue. Modifying the RTAB's and/or the mounts is the only way to address toe.

  7. #32
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    So, as an update, I ordered the turner arms, which should be here tomorrow. I've got about .15* of tow in right now, with no more adjust-ability to bring it any farther out. Lots of inwards adjustment though. I'm really not that low at all, I think rear ride height is 22.5" from ground to fender at the top. I'm going to try to go as close to 0 with my camber as possible, while keeping toe to 0. Under compression, which way does toe go? With compression, I know that camber goes more negative, and with that logic, I believe toe would be going farther in?

    Just trying to figure out the most appropriate alignment. right now, my rear camber is around -2.5, and my rear is toe'd in .18* on each side for a total of .36*. My tire wear has been awful, with the outside 3" of my tires looking brand new, and the inside being slick/ detreaded/ corded.
    Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit

  8. #33
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    it toes in on compression. In my experience (which is mostly 350hp+) you want a small bit of toe in. How stiff are your rear springs?

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Novablue454 View Post
    it toes in on compression. In my experience (which is mostly 350hp+) you want a small bit of toe in. How stiff are your rear springs?
    I believe my BC's are 7k front/ 8k rear, I don't think they were custom ordered, just off the shelf e46 BC BR's. I bought them second hand, but they had never been installed and everything was still in their factory sealed bags and packaging.
    I don't have anymore than stock power, and I think I'd be lucky to think that I've got all of that still... Really just trying to 0 everything for wear. My buddy drives a v8 mustang, putting down around 220 hp at the wheels, and his wheel speed is the same as mine. He goes through a single set of tires in a whole drift day, and his car makes more power and weighs more than mine, so I'm just trying to even out my tire wear and see if I can cut costs a bit. I've been going through at least one set a session.
    Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit

  10. #35
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    It only goes toe-in under compression when at stock ride height. When you start lowering the car excessively, it goes toe-out and that is the problem everyone tries to compensate for when they’re slammed because you run out of adjustment very quickly and the toe-out is pretty excessive.

  11. #36
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    Its not hard to get the toe back in spec, I am stupid low with no rear camber and I have a touch of toe in at the back of my car. Modded RTAB brackets, toe correction RTAB and camber arms are all I have done
    Grimegang_cody on instagram if you want to follow my progress
    Quote Originally Posted by Timing View Post
    I heard you like fenders, yo. So I screwed some fenders on your fenders.

  12. #37
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    Yeah exactly, you need either need to break out your fab shop and modify your brackets and bushings or you need to spend hundreds of dollars on more parts. The vast majority of people building E36’s don’t have those resources just readily available.

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Liquidity View Post
    Yeah exactly, you need either need to break out your fab shop and modify your brackets and bushings or you need to spend hundreds of dollars on more parts. The vast majority of people building E36’s don’t have those resources just readily available.
    It was like $150 in parts and paying a buddy to weld the brackets so it wasnt very expensive, but I agree, most folks dont want to do that much work
    Grimegang_cody on instagram if you want to follow my progress
    Quote Originally Posted by Timing View Post
    I heard you like fenders, yo. So I screwed some fenders on your fenders.

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Liquidity View Post
    It only goes toe-in under compression when at stock ride height. When you start lowering the car excessively, it goes toe-out and that is the problem everyone tries to compensate for when they’re slammed because you run out of adjustment very quickly and the toe-out is pretty excessive.
    I guess it’s good that I repeatedly said how I wasn’t that low!

    Put on the Turner arms, I’m 0 camber and 0 toe without any issue.
    Keep it simple: half gutted '01 330i, welded diff, BC coils, SLR Super kit

  15. #40
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    Do adjustable upper control arms make toe adjustment easier without having to do RTAB modifications? I already have true coilovers in the rear, so I'm looking for whichever is the easier solution to correct for toe with minimal rear camber.


  16. #41
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    Going to put on Megan arms with uni-ball ends this weekend along with new ball joints at all four spots in the rear knuckle, hoping this fixes the last little bit of vagueness from the rear
    Grimegang_cody on instagram if you want to follow my progress
    Quote Originally Posted by Timing View Post
    I heard you like fenders, yo. So I screwed some fenders on your fenders.

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Digitalwave View Post
    Do adjustable upper control arms make toe adjustment easier without having to do RTAB modifications? I already have true coilovers in the rear, so I'm looking for whichever is the easier solution to correct for toe with minimal rear camber.
    No one makes an adjustable upper arm that is even remotely the same shape as the stock arm. You lose a ton of suspension travel and the car will not be able to go anywhere near as low as you can with stock arms.

    If you have the ability to fabricate at all, moving the pivot point on the subframe is your best bet and I recommend this over wasting time modding the RTAB’s; it’s better for suspension geometry and easier on your CV boots. FD rules last I checked will allow them to be moved within a 2-1/2” diameter from stock location.

    I actually just recently did this on mine - I moved them up 1/2” and out 1/2” and the change was dramatic. Now my modded RTAB’s are toe’d in and I need to put normal ones back in if I want to go back to zero. My CV boots also no longer rub on my control arms.

  18. #43
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    Just checked, FD rules state 2” radius for relocation of pivot points.

  19. #44
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    Thanks for the info!


  20. #45
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    Somebody gave me the rear camber arms a while ago and first thing I noticed is they have rose joint(?) instead of bushing. I had to derust them and luckily managed to salvage them but if I have to go buy some right now, I can't seem to find any other than with the bushing. Which design is better? I might have to cover the ball joint with a blop of grease to prevent dirt getting there and seizing up.

  21. #46
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    Rose/heim joints are better for racing because they have no give, your geometry will stay true to your adjustments no matter how much force is against them.

    Problem is what you’ve just experienced- they’re exposed to the elements which cause them to fail quite easily and need replacement very often.

    They also send a lot of noise and vibration into the chassis - so if this is your nice daily driver and you enjoy that soft quiet ride that a luxury car offers - kiss that good bye.

  22. #47
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    It's not a total solution but they do sell rubber sleeves to put over your heim joints to keep them from getting grime and dirt in there.

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  23. #48
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    Just throwing this out there, we have some rear Upper control arms in the works. They are very similar profile / clearance to E46 rear uppers and they are adjustable length. They can be fitted with a spring cup if you don't want to run the spring on the shock and these can be used with factory sway links. Oh and did I mention they don't break when your car bottoms

    51626443_2183485478397624_8848893937100783616_n.jpg


    The catch is if you want a set, You all need to call Sean's number (the number at the top of SLRspeed.com) and hound him about this , I don't know about price yet, Sean hasn't set one yet.

  24. #49
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    Hound Sean? I've NEVER had to do that lol. What's weight compared to stock?

    Status: Someone put glitter in my oil. Wait. Why's all my oil outside the engine? What's that knocking?

  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Piner View Post
    Just throwing this out there, we have some rear Upper control arms in the works. They are very similar profile / clearance to E46 rear uppers and they are adjustable length. They can be fitted with a spring cup if you don't want to run the spring on the shock and these can be used with factory sway links. Oh and did I mention they don't break when your car bottoms

    51626443_2183485478397624_8848893937100783616_n.jpg


    The catch is if you want a set, You all need to call Sean's number (the number at the top of SLRspeed.com) and hound him about this , I don't know about price yet, Sean hasn't set one yet.
    My body is ready. I'm so moist. Is the spring cup at OEM height or will this lower/raise
    Last edited by Press22; 08-15-2019 at 01:00 PM.
    instagram @andyitslit

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