Steering Tightness While Wheels Are In The Air

[drewusmaximus]

Hi all, 1995 525i 5 SPD 279k

I recently replaced the thrust arms and tie rods (recent post). I think I stripped the tie rod adjuster because I didn’t tighten the fastener tight enough. So, I bought a new tie rod and adjuster for the passenger side, aligned the wheel as best as I can and took it for a test drive. The steering is tight when I make turns and it doesn’t self return so, I read a post about troubleshooting and jacked up the front two wheels. I started the car and turned the steering both directions. The steering is tight, even with the wheels in the air. I pulled off the strut cap to inspect the bearings and they were a bit dry. I lathered then with grease and re-tested. I turned the steering several times to work in the grease but, it still feels a bit tight. The steering does feel a bit better when adding the grease but, just a bit.

Is there something else I can look at that might be causing resistance? Power steering fluid looks good. I replace the serpentine belt about 200 miles ago.

Thanks in advance!

[moroza]

Does it get much tighter in the center? Was the center link or idler arm replaced recently?

[drewusmaximus]

Does it get much tighter in the center? Was the center link or idler arm replaced recently?

It does feel as if it tighter in the center, while turning but, none of those parts were replaced.

[moroza]

The main lash adjustment on the steerbox (the grub screw surrounded by a 17mm bolt on top of the box) should be set such that you feel a *slight* increase in tightness as the wheel passes through center, with the front wheels raised.

Either your steerbox is too tight or something is binding. With brand new parts, everything connected, wheels raised, and engine off, you should be able to turn the steering by grabbing a (road) wheel with both hands, and pivoting it with what I'd describe as a High-Medium amount of force. If you can't do that, isolate the binding part by a "divide-n-conquer" search method: split the steering into two groups by disconnecting somewhere, perhaps the tierods (at their sleeves; no need to pop loose joints), and move by hand the two assemblies on either side of the split. Whichever sub-assembly is too tight, disassemble further until you're down to one individual component. It might get unclear at some point what's too tight and what's not, but it's a start.

[drewusmaximus]

The main lash adjustment on the steerbox (the grub screw surrounded by a 17mm bolt on top of the box) should be set such that you feel a *slight* increase in tightness as the wheel passes through center, with the front wheels raised.

Either your steerbox is too tight or something is binding. With brand new parts, everything connected, wheels raised, and engine off, you should be able to turn the steering by grabbing a (road) wheel with both hands, and pivoting it with what I'd describe as a High-Medium amount of force. If you can't do that, isolate the binding part by a "divide-n-conquer" search method: split the steering into two groups by disconnecting somewhere, perhaps the tierods (at their sleeves; no need to pop loose joints), and move by hand the two assemblies on either side of the split. Whichever sub-assembly is too tight, disassemble further until you're down to one individual component. It might get unclear at some point what's too tight and what's not, but it's a start.

Thanks for the suggestions. I did not try turning the wheels while in the air with the car off. Only with the car on. I will give it a try after I take care of the caliper issue. I need to get the bolt on the caliper so I can get the car home.