Can you remove the chain tensioner without temporary device

[spaceavenger]

Need to remove my chain tensioner to help diagnose rattle on startup. Q: Can you just take it out without fear of the chain jumping a tooth on the crank gear? When doing the timing recently after guide replacement, they made a big deal of keeping a wire or tie-wrap around the guide and chain to keep the tension until the tensioner was reinstalled. Is this still the case to take out the tensioner now??

Also is the redesigned tensioner with longer spring etc worth getting?

[Timm]

Don't run the engine without the tensioner - the chain will slap about like a ferret in a shoebox. If you have an original tensioner change it!

[spaceavenger]

So just to take it out is OK? I was thinking I would have to remove the valve cover to get to the chain to hold it tight?

[Timm]

Old one out - new one in with no fiddling inbetween:

https://www.meeknet.co.uk/e31/E31_Ti..._Tensioner.htm

[spaceavenger]

I looked at your procedure and photos- Mine looked just like that, but some posts talk about an Oring, is there one on the M62TU or doesn't use an oring? The spring looks pretty wimpy.

[Timm]

Just a crush washer for sealing (it will come with the tensioner).

[spaceavenger]

How can you be sure you're getting the improved version with stiffer/longer spring and not one like I already have? Is there a certain part number?

[kouks]

If you purchase one new, it will be the updated version.

[spaceavenger]

Hey kouks, good to see you again. You replied to my previous post. Got the 2001 740iL running, but dealing with some issues. Engine runs great with no engine light but have rattle (1-2 sec) at startup and DSC, Brake and ABS lights all on, plus I think the tires are deformed from car sitting a year.

[Jamos]

If you don't precharge it with oil, you'll hear a pretty freaky rattle for the first few seconds, ie:

[spaceavenger]

Got the new tensioner coming and will prefill with oil

[kouks]

If the tensioner does not fix the rattle within a few drives, then you most likely have bad VANOS solenoids. A bit more complicated but nothing out of a typical DIY job.

As as far as the ABS lights, you’ll need to get the codes on that, otherwise you can chase your tail replacing everything. Out of round tires my cause it, but it would have to be extreme.

[kouks]

Got the new tensioner coming and will prefill with oil

If you do that you will never get it in. The piston will be too rigid. Add some oil to get it pre lubed, but make sure you can compress the piston before you try to install it. Otherwise you'll be there all day trying to get the threads to catch. Yes, it will rattle for about a second or two, but then it will be smooth. I'd also remove the air filter housing to make it easier access, your choice.

[spaceavenger]

I got the new tensioner and put it in, seems to have reduced the noise considerably, will see how it trends...

Waiting for a round adapter for the code reader. The inside OBD port only connects to engine and trans.

[georgebest]

If you do that you will never get it in. The piston will be too rigid. Add some oil to get it pre lubed, but make sure you can compress the piston before you try to install it. Otherwise you'll be there all day trying to get the threads to catch. Yes, it will rattle for about a second or two, but then it will be smooth. I'd also remove the air filter housing to make it easier access, your choice.

I could never figure how to keep it compressed when you are putting it in. It arrives compressed but for me always somehow expands when trying to put in. Would be so much easier to put in compressed. Has to be an easy trick that I missed somehow.

[kouks]

I could never figure how to keep it compressed when you are putting it in. It arrives compressed but for me always somehow expands when trying to put in. Would be so much easier to put in compressed. Has to be an easy trick that I missed somehow.

lube all the parts but drain the piston before you install. I compress it several times to make sure before I install. One day I slipped and the spring shot off the piston. Had to go find it in the garage and clean and re lube. Spring shot out too. Good thing it didn’t wack my head.

[georgebest]

lube all the parts but drain the piston before you install. I compress it several times to make sure before I install. One day I slipped and the spring shot off the piston. Had to go find it in the garage and clean and re lube. Spring shot out too. Good thing it didn’t wack my head.

I got that, what I meant is that when you receive it in a box it IS compressed. Much easier to screw in when compressed, but somehow I could never managed to keep it that way before putting it in. I think there is a trick to keep it compressed while you are putting it in, I just could never figured what it was. Maybe you need to turn the piston a certain way or similar.

[Timm]

It's easy to keep it compressed, you just need to push the wire ring downwards as you push the piston in. Takes a couple of goes but it does work!



Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[georgebest]

It's easy to keep it compressed, you just need to push the wire ring downwards as you push the piston in. Takes a couple of goes but it does work! Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Thanks, I figured there has to be a way

[spaceavenger]

I have started the car several times now, once 24 hours after new tensioner installation, and the let it sit 48 hours after that and pleased to report the rattle is all but gone. Replaced the original short spring version with an aftermarket INA 551 0004 100. Funny thing is the spring in the new one is about 1/3 longer but spring pressure seemed about the same. I wonder if the redesign had to do with the travel, and not so much the pressure?


Also received the round adapter that plugs into the port in the engine bay. Hooked my code reader up and it indicated a bad left front wheel sensor. I had removed each sensor one by one and cleaned, lubed and electrically checked. Each one reads approx. 2000 ohms, and all were consistent but yet the reader says it was bad. My understanding of these is vague, only knowing that they generate an AC voltage and may need a diode check to properly test them?

[georgebest]

I have started the car several times now, once 24 hours after new tensioner installation, and the let it sit 48 hours after that and pleased to report the rattle is all but gone. Replaced the original short spring version with an aftermarket INA 551 0004 100. Funny thing is the spring in the new one is about 1/3 longer but spring pressure seemed about the same. I wonder if the redesign had to do with the travel, and not so much the pressure?

Not to rain on the parade...but my chain guides broke a month after I installed the new tensioner. I guess they were about to brake anyway and the higher tension on the chain just accelerated it.

[spaceavenger]

Well guides were just done and beside, I think it has to do more with farther travel rather than more tension...

[georgebest]

Well guides were just done and beside, I think it has to do more with farther travel rather than more tension...

No issues then!

[spaceavenger]

One day I slipped and the spring shot off the piston. Had to go find it in the garage and clean and re lube. Spring shot out too. Good thing it didn’t wack my head.

Once I had an old style 392 Hemi that had some valves rusted into the guides. I was hitting the top of the valve stems with a hammer to get them to move and one that had nearly corroded in half shot out right past my head at about 300 mph. A little off topic but good shop safety message.