What are some of the most cost effective fuel tank replacements for the E21? Is it more cost effective to just have whats there cleaned and "made new" again or is there a replacement tank that can be bought and installed to minimize total labor/restoration costs? All advice greatly appreciated!
Last edited by EconomicHustle; 08-17-2018 at 04:25 PM. Reason: grammar and stuff.
Pulling and resealing the tanks is more economical,
POR-15 Fuel Tank Repair Kit - 49239~$72----, DIY save a lot,,left and right fuel tanks are like $660 each new plus shipping ect.
Includes:
- Cleaner Degreaser - to remove gum, sludge, varnish
- Metal Prep - to remove rust & prepare tank for sealer
- Fuel Tank Sealer - to permanently seal tank
- Will prep and coat up to a 25 gallon tank
- ABTM part number: POR-49239
Randy
Last edited by 320iAman; 08-18-2018 at 02:32 AM.
In almost all instances, it's going to be cheaper to fix the old ones than buy new. If they are rusted to the point pinholes are starting and they need to have patches put in, then it will probably be better to buy new. I recently had the petrol tank for my '56 Healey repaired. It had no rust but had to be opened and the baffles welded back up. That fairly simple repair was a $600 deal.
My e21 tanks had surface rust inside from sitting with gas in for many years when I first bought the car. I pulled the tanks, bought a couple gallons of evapo-rust, poured it in one tank, plugged the holes, let it sit on the bottom for a day or so, tipped it up on one end, let it set for 8 hours, tipped it up on the other end, let it set for 8 hours and so on. It took a freakin' LONG time to do this to both tanks as you can imagine as in a week or so. They came out pretty much spotless inside.
I did not apply any coatings. I have been using that sta-bil 360 stuff in the gas (got suckered in by the "vapor technology" ads). I started to get nervous about the no coating thing, so I pulled the pump/level sender assembly out end of last year to look in there. Three years later it is still spotless inside. Obviously, I can't see over into the driver's side tank but the passenger tank is mint inside.
I guess it all depends on how bad they are...
Last edited by wally509; 08-18-2018 at 07:06 AM.
"Wally" Casten - 1956 Austin-Healey 100, 1985 M-B 300SD, 1987 911 Carrera, 1997 Triumph T509
"The more things change, the more they SUCK" -Butt-Head (Mike Judge)
I'd add one more step to gas tank resealing, after degreasing the inside,put some steel marbles "steelies" inside the tank , larger the better 1/2 or 3/4" and turn the tanks over and over-this knocks out the flakes, then wash out with favorite solvent,then acid etch and seal the tanks with your chosen sealer. If you did nothing but marbles and wash out--not all tanks require degreasing and then reinstalled the tanks( not leakers) your fuel filter would be much cleaner for many moons, I know there is no need to mention count the steelies going in and coming out,,,lol..
Randy
Last edited by 320iAman; 08-20-2018 at 11:52 AM.
i used nails. count them going in and out. nasty filthy job but it worked great. good luck.
If you decide to go with the POR-15 let me know. I bought a kit last year to do my tanks, but I never ended up using it since I found some other tanks instead. The kit has never been used and has a shelf life of 2 years, so it is still good. I'll give you a good deal. Either way, good luck!
-Juan
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