1. It needs a linkage rod that drives top up/down that connects to the top's steel frame on the drivers side. Its missing. And all the Part stores on internet exploded parts diagrams dont show it.
2. Clunk sound from rear end upon stopping.
3. Shocks are so wasted, they dont control the Springs
4. Springs are so wasted the wasted shocks dont have any spring movement to control.
5. The Brake lights and the rear running lights are not working. I cleaned the bulb connections, which got the turn signals working.Still no Brake and rear running lights.
6. Radio missing, I bought a single din pioneer flip up head unit. Still havent installed.
7. When I drove it home on the freeway, at 60MPH, on a big left hand curve, the front end shook violently, as if a wheel in the front was coming loose.. stopped and checked it with a lug wrench, it was tight, ckd the other 3 wheels ,tight also.. and tires all around, had apx 30 PSI . I didnt see anything wrong, drove it home crossing my fingers.
Im 68 years old and This car has got me all stoked up.. My retirement project.
How many miles on it?
Manual or Automatic?
I am not an expert, so take this as a pure spitball that is founded on very limited knowledge of these cars...
1. It needs a linkage rod that drives top up/down that connects to the top's steel frame on the drivers side. Its missing. And all the Part stores on internet exploded parts diagrams dont show it.I would check subframe bushing/s first. From the state of the rest of the suspension they may not have ever been replaced.
That could have been removed because the top motor was broken etc. If you can manually lower the top fine you might leave it alone unless you are deat set on pushing that button to drop the top.
2. Clunk sound from rear end upon stopping.
3. Shocks are so wasted, they dont control the SpringsIt could be lower control arm bushings. Complete lower control arms with bushings are pretty cheap and easy to replace, as I understand it. I haven't done mine, but I did replace one on my daughter 740i and they are very similar.
4. Springs are so wasted the wasted shocks dont have any spring movement to control.
5. The Brake lights and the rear running lights are not working. I cleaned the bulb connections, which got the turn signals working.Still no Brake and rear running lights.
6. Radio missing, I bought a single din pioneer flip up head unit. Still havent installed.
7. When I drove it home on the freeway, at 60MPH, on a big left hand curve, the front end shook violently, as if a wheel in the front was coming loose.. stopped and checked it with a lug wrench, it was tight, ckd the other 3 wheels ,tight also.. and tires all around, had apx 30 PSI . I didnt see anything wrong, drove it home crossing my fingers.
Congrats on retirement. Sounds like this car will keep you from getting bored and will keep you flexible
Last edited by blkwpnz; 08-16-2018 at 08:33 PM.
Stubbornness is a virtue....
Here are some links you might find useful
Factory Service Manual: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/
Parts Diagrams (you need to select the engine and date of manufacture): https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sel...a&model=Z3+2.8
Parts: I usually go with FCP Euro, ECS Tuning, or the BMW Dealer
If you have electrohydraulic top (check if you have button on console for raising/lowering top), then it's part #54348410307 in following diagram.
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...01#54348410307
- - - Updated - - -
Check the fuses?
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Could be just old tires. Had something similar, car started to shake at speeds over 50mph. Not sure if I can describe that as violently though.
Here's a diagram and DIY on it:
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=54_0201
https://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/bmwz3removalguide.pdf
Look up your car's build data, equipment and options at bimmer.work.
Find your car in realoem.com and bookmark it.
Last edited by Vintage42; 08-17-2018 at 05:35 PM.
BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405
The brake light switch is a very common failure point. It not only doesn’t light up your tail lights, but it will make an automatic top not function and will give you a transmission warning light if you have an automatic transmission.
1999 M Coupe Boston Green, Beige, H&R/Bilsteins, Underdrive Pulleys, Euro 6 speed, UUC SSK and Randy Forbes in the back
2002 2.5 Z3 roadster Oxford Green, auto, all stock
2013 Ram 3500 Crew Cab Dually 385 HP, 850 ft lbs torque at 1600 rpm, all stock and staying that way
2004 Mini Cooper Chili Red, daily driver, modified almost daily
Rear end clunk: Could be the dreaded subframe failure. Look at parked thread on this topic at top of this forum, “Subframe / trunk floor / differential mount failure”
Also typical failure point that can cause a clunk are the rear shock mounts. But as the previous poster mentioned, definitely check out the rear subframe area.
If your rear lights aren't working it could be just your bulb assembly is old and crapped out.
Sounds like the previous owner didn't take very good care of car. Be prepared to fork out $'s trying to take care of all the little stuff. My advice, don't cheap out. Do it right and you'll be happier in the long run.
I'm working on a Z3 M Roadster that the previous owner cheaped out on nearly every job and I'm working to fix things. As an example the antenna broke off so the mechanic decided to install an aftermarket mount and antenna so that cosmetically it'd look okay. Problem was that the mechanic didn't do anything about reconnecting the antenna cable so the owner had no radio reception! WTF! But he spent some time getting in there to install the antenna mount. Go figure.
At least you have the resource of this forum to post questions and get advice.
Have to disagree with you there.
I listen to the radio all the time and I know the previous owner also listened to the radio or he wouldn't have commented about the crappy reception.
In fact, nearly everyone I know, still listens to the radio even though they have bluetooth connectivity.
Sounds like that car will definitely keep you busy!!
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