Changing my Breaks for the 1st Time on my 525i

[nelsonjmbf]

so i am planning on changing my break pads on both the back and the front today but before i do i wanted to ask a few things, 1st being making sure i have everything i need, i have new pads, new sensors, break fluid, jack stands, 7mm hex bit, and the lube for the pads, sound like everything i need correct? the next question would be if there is any order i need to stick to when changing them or if its ok to start in back,front,left, or right, followed by wondering if when i change pads i need to unscrew the break fluid resivor as well as bleed the breaks when i am all done or if bleeding the breaks only needs to be done when doing work to calipers/rotors? o i also have the clamps for holding the calipers apart, my final question is how important is a torque wrench when it comes to this job? i know it is very important when doing other things to the car but should i make a trip to find one before taking the wheels off my car? i drive a 2004 525i if it makes any difference.

[zipman35]

There is a sensor for flushing the fluid. If you don’t expose the lines to air there is no need to bleed them. I have changed rotors and pads on mine and never bled the brakes


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2005 RHD TJ Sport
2010 BMW 528xi

[nelsonjmbf]

ok, thats what i had seen on the videos i watched an the two guides i read but wanted to ask to be sure, if you dont mind me asking what do you mean by sensor for flushing the fluid? do u mean that if air does get into the line or i need to flush the system for some other reason a sensor will go off an tell me, or should i say throw a code? im in the process of learning everything i can about the car so i am trying to learn how to use inpa as well as ediabas to at least be able to read my own codes

[zipman35]

Ohhh yours is an 04. I’m not 100% on the brake fluid change for yours. My 2010 has a alert that goes off on screen on the dash when I need to have the fluid vacuumed out, flushed, and replaced

As for the bleed. As long as you don’t blow a brake line or open a bleeder valve is get air in the system you should be fine just using a c clamp to compress the caliper back out during the install.

I never opened the reservoir and upon cranking the car back I might have to pump the brake once or twice and the pedal firms back up no problem


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2005 RHD TJ Sport
2010 BMW 528xi

[nelsonjmbf]

ok so i did the front and the pedal seems fine, if anything it is a lil softer than it used to be but from what i could feel it didnt stop any slower, but i had a buddy helping me an he said he may have forgottem to place the lil cover over the bleeder nipple when putting the tire bACk on, do u think this could cause the softer break pedal feel or maybe just the new pads since my old ones were kind of beat looking lol

[zipman35]

I changed my front pads out months before changing the rear.

I didn’t really notice the car stopping any better or a difference in the pedal just no longer a brake light on the dash. Plus non noise from the front.

I might suggest pumping them up once before cranking the car to see if that helps if your concerned but from what you describe it sounds normal


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2005 RHD TJ Sport
2010 BMW 528xi