I got new cams so I am selling the two out of my car. The intake cam is an S52 and the exhaust cam is an M50 non vanos intake cam. The non vanos cam has the exact same duration and lift profile as the factory S52 exhaust cam, but you have to time it manually as the blocks on the back of the cam will not sit in the blocks. I can show you two easy ways to set the timing on it. The factory block will still work on the intake cam. So save yourself about $200 with about 20 minutes of extra work.
$250 shipped
Last edited by someguy2800; 09-05-2018 at 01:28 PM.
Good price, but I am genuinely interested in the procedure for setting timing without the block. Would you mind sharing?
CURRENT:
Racecar: '81 e21 320i Group2. GT28 @ 25psi, MS2, e28 M5 suspension/brakes underneath, forged, cammed, 400bhp, 2190lbs, etc, etc...
Daily: '95 e34 540/6. DUDMD tuned, vogtland/koni, Schnitzers, other minor touches.
Project: '94 525iT. S50 swapped, supercharger in the works, manual swapped, Airlift supsension, Mpars, Brembo's, clean machine.
New daily: e60 530i sport package. Stock.
There are 3 ways to do it
The Scandinavian way to do it is to set the motor to TDC and rotate the exhaust cam till the lifter moves 1mm. This takes a dial indicator and a magnetic base. Possibly even a digital caliper would work
The easier way is to set the angle of the cam block with an angle finder against the top of the head with one of these
https://www.homedepot.com/p/General-...FUezTwodxfkGwA
You can see in this picture the approximate angle the cam needs to be at. I have is saved on my computer but I will send the exact angle that is needed.
The third option is I just send the fixture I made above with it to keep. I guess I really don't need it anymore.
Mic, calipers and loose rod lend credibility**; I'd have probably moved the hammer out of the picture...
** Not that YOU need it!
Seriously, did you make that fixture? I'm looking at the printing on it in an effort to find one! Three-D printed; doesn't look machined?
If nothing else, consider this a complimentary post bump. Good luck with sale.
excuse my complete lack of knowledge here, but I'm somewhat interested but have some questions.
I don't understand how the whole cam tray/caps/lifters deal works when swapping cams, like i know that the trays are different and you need the correct trays but i didnt know if had to make the m50 cam work with the m/s52 trays when it comes to this setup or vice versa?
I also read a thread about the m50nv cam being slightly longer and causing issues and that the fix for that was shaving the cam down 1.6mm but that's the only time I read that and I'm unsure if that's actually true.
Like I said, not too familiar when it comes to anything engine related but was looking into s5x cam swap and came across this so I figured I would ask, thanks
Last edited by mcfilmwerks; 08-29-2018 at 02:46 PM.
Just sent you a PM..
2001 Z3M S52 OBX T4 Top Mount, GTX3582R T4 1.06, 66MM Compressor, 3 Inch IC Pipes,HPX, Wiseco 8-1, Ported Head, Carrillo Pro Rods, CES Cut Ring, 3.5 Exhaust, ARP, Big FMI, Turbonetics Gate Fender Exit, 2 Walbro Pumps, UUC 6 Puck Ceramic, Aluminum Flywheel. With working A/C.
I don't remember on the cam tray clearance. I think you have to clearance OBD1 trays if using OBD2 cams, so in this case you would only have to do the intake tray since the exhaust cam is an OBD1 cam. I know I had to do it on mine some years ago but I don't remember what cams it was for. Or you can just use OBD2 trays and lifters. They interchange.
The thread you read about the NV cam being longer was probably my build thread. This cam has been machined already to correct the chain alignment.
So much want and so tempting if only i had enough moneys at this current point in time!!
I just sent you a pm
PM’d
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
“If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.”
― George Orwell
Did these ever sell?
I wish I would have seen this before I spent the coin on a full set of S52 cams,
Bummer.
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