How to install subframe mount bushings?

[Spaceturtle917]

I bought new subframe bushings and I know how to remove them. But I don’t know how to install them without a special tool. I just don’t want to remove them and now be able to install them.


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[katit2]

I bought new subframe bushings and I know how to remove them. But I don’t know how to install them without a special tool. I just don’t want to remove them and now be able to install them.


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I have special tool(used) I can sell

Some people install new ones by lowering car onto them so they get pressed in under car weight..

- - - Updated - - -

I bought new subframe bushings and I know how to remove them. But I don’t know how to install them without a special tool. I just don’t want to remove them and now be able to install them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have special tool(used) I can sell

Some people install new ones by lowering car onto them so they get pressed in under car weight..

[demetk]

Usually the weight of the car is not sufficient to press them in so I use a jack and chain as a press.

[bigsixe34]

With these cars getting the toasted ones out is the bigger PITA. Installation is straightforward long as you got a press of some sort.
Another option is to go with a non-OE replacement. Polyurethane bushings, while stiff by comparison typically come in two pieces that you lube up and shove into place from above and below with much more ease. A softer poly variant will get you close to stock rubber comfort levels. Harder formulas make for a bumpy ride. In either case, they're longitudinal stabilizers rather than shock absorbers so the material they're is made of isn't something that will impact the ride in a way as noticeable as, say, switching to poly control arm bushings.

[whiskychaser]

Usually the weight of the car is not sufficient to press them in so I use a jack and chain as a press.

I found that the trick is to put the bushes in the freezer for 24 hours before use. Apply a little washing up liquid to the bore. Lower car quickly and jump on the rear door sill if required.

[moroza]

I installed mine with a floor jack, some dish soap, and the weight of the car. The tool for removal should be reversible, though perhaps with not enough room if this is done on the car.

[eddycooper]

Same here - I put them in a the freezer overnight and then put some dish soap on before installing and they went in fairly smoothly under the weight of the car.

[BleedsBlue]

We (Angry Ass Solutions) have a really nice tool we can rent out via deposit, so you don't have to buy anything. It's never been used (as far as we know) with the subframe still installed, however.

Getting the old ones out is cake - you just need to apply the same hack mechanic principles as described above

I used steel pipe caps (fun fact: same ones I drilled to create a perfect E36 RTAB puller tool) in between the chassis and the old bushing. One fits at first; then use the weight of the car to compress. Hit the old bushing (from below) with a torch. It will start to slide out and soon you can add a second pipe cap.

Substitute any hard disc for the pipe cap, I've even heard of wood but YMMV. With this method I had both sides out and the new poly ones in in 30min, on jackstands in my old apartment garage.

I think polyurethane replacements are a superior option in this case, but have heard the freezer + dish soap with the same method (in reverse) is pretty reliable for installing fresh OEM-style cans.

[bigsixe34]

You can also drill the center pin sleeve and it's surroundings out with a hole saw and then use brute force to fold the outer can until it falls out.
It's also worth mentioning something which is that when the center rubber in the bushing is worn beyond a certain point it will never have enough mojo to pull the cylinder out with it when using a proper tool.

[south42]

I did a write-up on this on a few years ago. If you search you can find it. It used a floor jack with chains to get the bushings back in.

Andy

[fo3]

Are you fitting rubber or aftermarket polyurethane ones?
Polyurethane ones can be installed easily but rubber ones need a press/tool and lots of lube (I think some people use kerosene or something that will dry out eventually so the rubber seats permanently later)
I was going to do my own so I looked up a lot of tech how-tos and vids but eventually ended up losing my garage, needing to move out etc so I just got it done at a shop with the rear wheel bearings.
But here's a vid I did still have book marked (it's the easier 2 peice polyurethane though) :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-HGUVzokpjM

When you get to the stage of installing OEM rubber ones (if that's what your are using and don't have a tool), you'll need some metal plates, spacers and threaded rod to act as a press as well as mineral turps or kerosene for a lube.
Some people use freezing the day before, others use soap but I remember reading about this ages ago - there's some brand name lubricant I forget the name of and it was used by proper shops and mentioned when I researched it, seen a vid with a mechanic installing it just using turps or kero so that was what I was going to use.

E: I looked up in the workshop manual and if using OEM rubber bushes it says lube with 'circolight'. And found a thread here that suggests using ipc 'p80' temporary rubber lubricant as an alternative.

[BleedsBlue]

Good info, folks.

temporary rubber lubricant

What a novel concept.

[Spaceturtle917]

Thank you all. Might return the OE ones and buy polys.


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