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Thread: Recommendations for suspension overhaul for 1998 328i?

  1. #1
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    Recommendations for suspension overhaul for 1998 328i?

    Hi guys,

    I'm hitting 160k miles on my car and the suspension is loose af. Car is extremely jumpy and loose when cornering especially at higher speeds.

    I'm not a suspension expert. But I've worked extensively on my car. I would like to know what options are available to upgrade my suspension to get the best bang for buck to improve my car's performance on the street?

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Recommendations for suspension overhaul for 1998 328i?

    Quote Originally Posted by bonoz View Post
    Hi guys,

    I'm hitting 160k miles on my car and the suspension is loose af. Car is extremely jumpy and loose when cornering especially at higher speeds I would like to know what options are available to upgrade my suspension to get the best bang for buck to improve my car's performance on the street?

    Thanks
    At 160K miles you stock dampers have been toast for ~ 130K miles!!!
    Some of your choices will be limited by what part of country/what condition the roads are in your area.

    Koni and Bilstein both offer great packages that range from OE replacement to Race.
    There will be some other items to look at such as Rear Shock Mounts (RSM), Rear Trailing Arm Bushings (RTAB), Forward Lower Control Arms (FLCA), Forward Lower Control Arm Bushings (FLCAB), Tie Rods, and Guide Supports/Strut Mounts.
    Buy Lemforder replacement parts for those items, except some folks recommend Meyle HD (solid outer ball joint) FLCA.
    For the FLCABushings, use the 1996+M3 Centered FLCABushing, but if you want some added Caster, use the 1995M3 Offset FLCABushing.
    For RSMs, use the E46M3/Convertible pieces.
    Get the paper body gaskets for both the RSMs and the front Strut mounts.

    Avoid polyurethane RTBs, use stock style RTABushings with Toe Limiters. ‘Poly’ RTABs restrict motion to one plane or axis of rotation. The Rear Trailing Arm moves/rotates in at least two planes.

    Bilstein Sports typically come with accordion dust shields and bump stops, however other brands require the use of stock style dustshields/bump stops - Rein, Bilstein/Febi, Koni, and Lemforder is your friend.
    Steer clear of URO and other low cost brands.


    This overview is E36M3 centric, but 328 is very similar. And you may use some E36 M3 Bushings and/or components.
    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...n-Overhaul-FAQ

    Images are from realoem.com

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by bluptgm3; 08-09-2018 at 06:26 PM.

  3. #3
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    Shop here for lifetime warranty on all OE or OEM Quality parts:https://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/32...998&m=20&e=179

  4. #4
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    1998 BMW 328i
    Quote Originally Posted by bluptgm3 View Post
    At 160K miles you stock dampers have been toast for ~ 130K miles!!!
    Some of your choices will be limited by what part of country/what condition the roads are in your area.

    Koni and Bilstein both offer great packages that range from OE replacement to Race.
    There will be some other items to look at such as Rear Shock Mounts (RSM), Rear Trailing Arm Bushings (RTAB), Forward Lower Control Arms (FLCA), Forward Lower Control Arm Bushings (FLCAB), Tie Rods, and Guide Supports/Strut Mounts.
    Buy Lemforder replacement parts for those items, except some folks recommend Meyle HD (solid outer ball joint) FLCA.
    For the FLCABushings, use the 1996+M3 Centered FLCABushing, but if you want some added Caster, use the 1995M3 Offset FLCABushing.
    For RSMs, use the E46M3/Convertible pieces.
    Get the paper body gaskets for both the RSMs and the front Strut mounts.

    Avoid polyurethane RTBs, use stock style RTABushings with Toe Limiters. ‘Poly’ RTABs restrict motion to one plane or axis of rotation. The Rear Trailing Arm moves/rotates in at least two planes.

    Bilstein Sports typically come with accordion dust shields and bump stops, however other brands require the use of stock style dustshields/bump stops - Rein, Bilstein/Febi, Koni, and Lemforder is your friend.
    Steer clear of URO and other low cost brands.


    This overview is E36M3 centric, but 328 is very similar. And you may use some E36 M3 Bushings and/or components.
    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...n-Overhaul-FAQ

    Images are from realoem.com

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Thank you so much my dude. It's pretty involved stuff. I need to do so much research on it now! I feel like I don't want to spend more than like $500 on a 20 year old car. You're right tho... my stock dampers are totally toast.

  5. #5
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    What?
    $500 in total for a front and rear suspension refresh?
    Your kidding, unless it's a total salvage parts upgrade.

  6. #6
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    Recommendations for suspension overhaul for 1998 328i?

    Quote Originally Posted by MIKYZZ4 View Post
    What?
    $500 in total for a front and rear suspension refresh?
    Your kidding, unless it's a total salvage parts upgrade.
    Ya, potentially you could find some low mileage well cared for takeoffs on this board or on several others including your local Craig’s List…but even then for more than $500 for struts/shocks/springs.
    Then there is ALL the ‘other stuff’ mentioned above.


    Bilstein B4 Struts and Rear Shocks appears to fall within you budget, as I see on Ebay right now.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by bluptgm3; 08-11-2018 at 08:19 AM.

  7. #7
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    If you do all the labor yourself you can probably do the following for around $1000-1500 in parts. $500 is unrealistic.

    New OEM/Koni/Bilstein shocks all around (will likely want new springs too if going aftermarket)
    New RSM's
    New OEM bushings: FCAB's, differential, rear subframe, RTAB's (with limiters), and inner upper/lower rear control arm bushings (as necessary)
    New front control arms or press in new Lemforder ball joints (four total)
    New tie rod ends
    New rear outer Lemforder ball joints (four total)
    New OEM motor and transmission mounts
    Front shock tower reinforcement plates (or camber plates)
    New sway bar bushings (or new aftermarket sway bars)
    Optionally, front and rear subframe reinforcements while you have them out (probably not necessary on a street car with OEM parts)

    Having just done this and more on my M3, I can tell you this is a major job and will likely have your car sitting on jackstands for at least 2-3 straight weeks/weekends unless you can work on it uninterrupted and have help. As you can see, it's more than just new shocks. Shocks will help the ride, but there's likely a lot more worn out or broken parts in your suspension which are contributing to the loose feeling. Also, get a quality alignment once you do all this.
    Last edited by TostitoBandito; 08-12-2018 at 01:25 PM.
    1999 M3/2/5 - Titanium Silver - Track/Weekend Toy


  8. #8
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    My estimate would be more around $1500~$2000
    so an avg. of $1500!
    BMW coupled with the term "cheap overhaul" doesn't really exist, lol.

  9. #9
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    Do it all. Make sure you check your rear springs, my rear springs were broken on my vert. However, new "QUALITY" suspension and tires make a huge difference. 20 years or not, these cars drive sweet when the suspension is right and you're missing out on some pleasurable driving experiences with shot suspension.
    If you have access to a garage I may be able to help you out with a wrench if you're trying to do this yourself. I would recommend poly front CABs as they are easier to install. The rest of the front end stuff can be done with hand tools [well, the front struts require a spring compressor and I use an electric impact to loosen the top-hat ..]. After you replace the bushings and get an alignment you may find toasted wheel bearings also. Don't be surprised if some of the handling issues are wheel bearings. But, if your car is in reasonably reliable 'good' shape I would go ahead bite the bullet and get another 40-75k miles of good handling. When you price it out per mile it's cost effective to do it all at once.
    Good luck , PM me if you want to discuss I've done this on my E36 when I purchased it and it made my dad nickname the vert 'Sticky Kitty'
    http://www.bmwmregistry.com/detail.php?id=13792
    * E39 M5 SterlingGray -RIP 11/2018
    * E36 328 vert Schwarz - ~TurboProject underway
    * E90 335i Sedan MonocoBlau - Daily ToddlerTaxi

  10. #10
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    Also, if you do it right it will add significant value to the car. Being able to tell a prospective buyer that all the rubber and wear parts in the suspension of a 20+ year old car have been refreshed/replaced recently helps a lot, since it's a massive job. Especially if the rest of the car is in fairly good shape, it's worth doing right. Nice E36's, like E30's before, are becoming increasingly rare and even non-M cars are increasing in value.
    1999 M3/2/5 - Titanium Silver - Track/Weekend Toy


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