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Thread: Back in the game!

  1. #1
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    Back in the game!

    Hey everybody, I'm back with what is now my 4th E32 735i. I purchased from a fellow forum member (name will remain undisclosed), but it got a little hot on the highway.....nearly overheated but I caught it before it went to red. Turned out to be a stuck thermostat, lucky I had a spare I brought with my in my spare parts kit for just the occasion. Anyway, I'm back home! Overall a very clean example, but automatic, oh well! Some things that need addressing, and would like your assistance:

    1. Parts of the dash and OBC are dim, such as gear selection display on the dash (ED/SD is visible only with a flash light held to it), the odometer, and half of the dash OBC is dark/dim. Are these just requiring bulb replacements, or is there something more sinister going on? Has anybody experimented with LEDs?

    2. Passenger seat is crooked, and I'm not talking about the typical seat twist. Damn seat looks like the rail is crooked? Anybody experience this before?

    3. Air conditioning works, but sometimes appears to be overwhelmed in hot weather. I'm assuming this is the original R12 specification, as I couldn't find a R134a sticker anywhere. Is there a way to improve AC performance short of the typical drain AC, convert to R134a + parallel flow condenser?

    4. Brakes feel hard to push, not sure if this is vacuum related or just worn brakes/rotors. I have replacements on hand anyhow. Has anybody used SS brake lines in the E32, and what were your experiences?

    5. Car has difficulty starting when hot sometimes after driving...assuming this could be the check valve failed in the fuel pump similar to my old car, will probably splice in a fuel check valve inline in the outlet hose.

    6. FIRE PREVENTION! What do I need to do to prevent my current car from burning down like my other one......

    7. Not really a problem so to speak, but being used to the manual 735, the auto feels....a little sluggish. Can anything be done short of a turbocharger to make her more lively? I'm debating going the volvo efan route + MAF instead of AFM.

    8. Headliner is ratty.....really ratty. I don't think I'm brave enough to tackle this myself, but maybe I'll recruit a friend to help.

    9. Does the auto trans have a flex disc/guibo and center bearing? I hear a slight "clunk" when I let go of the gas pedal and press it again.

    Overall, a very clean car! Build date 12/87, I love that these old 88s had actual wood trim, not laminated wood like later production. Pics to come later

  2. #2
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    I'm so glad you are back in the game! Fantastic news and really good you were able to source one from another member. Would be my first choice too.

    So here is a couple of answers/solutions

    1. The darkened cluster is due to the backlight bulbs going bad. They require removal of the steering wheel and gauge cluster, but once removed they are removable from the rear of the cluster without having to open it up. They typically have a brown bulb holder and are much larger than any of the other "indication" bulbs. Takes 15 min or so to do.

    2. Is the passenger sit uneven on the bottom? Where it doesn't sit flat anymore, or is either the left or right side of the seat farther forward the the other side? If it's the former its most likely a failed cable just like the seat twist, if it's the latter, it's possible the rod that connects one side of the rail to the other side with the motor may have been damaged or come out of place. Only real way is to remove the seat and inspect out of the car. I had a similar issue but due to the back seat twist. The previous owner had kept adjusting the seat while it twisted so hard, it caused the buttom to twist too, I eventually straightened it out and repaired the back seat twist.

    3. Check the fitting on the low side, you can tell if it has been converted because there will be an adapter fitting over the original R12 fitting that was part of the actual pipe. Also if you have an R134 gauge, you can try and fit it over this.
    I'd alak recommend cleaning the condenser up front with coil cleaner and a good clean between the fins. Also try and cycle the recirculation setting, feel for the slight pause in air flow as the flaps move around, it's possible you have a stuck recirc flap, allowing outside air in all the time. You could also just be low on r12/r134

    4. Hard brakes could be a booster or a vacuum leak on that booster to engine vacuum line. My old 735 had developed a leak on the check valve and grommet for that line. Heard SS lines do wonders for pedal feel too. Worn or cheap pads will give the same sensation.

    5..... Not sure just yet.

    6. There is a whole thread dedicated to this after what happened to your car below. Seems to be the diagnostic cap no being fused, solution below. Also check for the wires below the diagnostic port for any rubbing on the body of the car. The plastic nuts holding the ports go bad over time and cause the cable bundle to rub on the body, eventually leading to the insulation wearing away and shorting out.

    7. I'd probably go for the manual swap if I were you. Cheaper than a turbo, less work and parts are very easy to swap in, in your case since you have the model that came from factory with a manual. Many have used the turbo setup from the old E23 745 on their E32 M30s with good success. Not Sure of how much power output, but the system worked well as the engines were the same M30.

    8. Some good info on Johan and Sean's website for this, I believe Erich has it as well (shogun)

    9. Center bearing always went bad but more noticeable on a start from standstill. I have the same clunk when letting off the gas and my center bearing is in good shape, I have no guibo on my 750. I think that may be due to bad rear subframe bushings allowing the diff and all to slap around when letting off the throttle. At least on mine I hear it in the back end of the car, only really happens at highway speeds.


    Again glad to hear your back in an E32. Looking forward to some photos!

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

    BMW 7er Website www.7er.com
    1989 BMW 735i Schwarz (sadly, sold) // 1989 BMW 750iL Cirrusblau Metallic // 1998 BMW 740iL Oxfordgrün Metallic // 2000 M5 Carbon Schwarz ///

  3. #3
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    3. Have you checked that the aux fan kicks on when the AC is on? It could be getting overwhelmed and shutting down when you're at a stop if the aux fan isn't running. If you have records for the car, they might also list if it has been converted. Sometimes those stickers can peel off.

    6. A big cause has been the blower resistor and blower motor causing fires. There was a time period a while back when suddenly a lot of E34s and E32s went up in flames. It would be a good idea to take out the blower motor and clear the area of the build up of leaves and dirt from over the decades, as using the heater with all that crap in there has been the cause of many fires. Either the fan will draw too much power to fight the leaves, jam and ignite itself or the blower resistor is gunked up with leaves and does the same thing.

    I recently cleaned out my blower motor and the amount of leaves in there was ridiculous. It was starting to jam the fan so I high recommend you give clean the area.

  4. #4
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    +1 on that aux fan, can't believe I completely forgot about that. They all eventually fail so wouldn't doubt yours failed too. The resistor can be purchased on Amazon for $5, equivalent rating and tolerance to the original one. Report back.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

    BMW 7er Website www.7er.com
    1989 BMW 735i Schwarz (sadly, sold) // 1989 BMW 750iL Cirrusblau Metallic // 1998 BMW 740iL Oxfordgrün Metallic // 2000 M5 Carbon Schwarz ///

  5. #5
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    I've still got a bunch of parts that you might need....and I'm within driving distance. (southern MD)

    Brian 301-247-9353

  6. #6
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    Thank you for all the input, I have ordered the bulbs. I checked the fittings on the AC, they are indeed R134a, however I had scary situation today..... I hooked up my AC gauge manifold to high and low lines, turned on the car and enabled AC + max fan speed, not even 5 minutes into testing, I see smoke from engine bay, around AC compressor area. I saw AC compressor was turning very slowly, accompanied by horrible noise that went away after I disabled AC. I was scared my car was going to catch fire again! Is my compressor toast, or just the clutch? Regardless based on this terrible noise, I may just go ahead and change the compressor.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Thank you for all the input, I have ordered the bulbs. I checked the fittings on the AC, they are indeed R134a, however I had scary situation today..... I hooked up my AC gauge manifold to high and low lines, turned on the car and enabled AC + max fan speed, not even 5 minutes into testing, I see smoke from engine bay, around AC compressor area. I saw AC compressor was turning very slowly, accompanied by horrible noise that went away after I disabled AC. I was scared my car was going to catch fire again! Is my compressor toast, or just the clutch? Regardless based on this terrible noise, I may just go ahead and change the compressor.

  7. #7
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    Congrats!! Good to see you rebound so quick as a player.
    On my 1991 735i the best mods it had was a chip and 4.27 diff; which was the automatic diff ratio in 1991, but would be an upgrade for your 3.64. If you can find an LSD it would be a plus.

    With that setup the car consistently clocked a 7.2sec 0-60, which isn’t bad all things considered.
    Last edited by whiteghost1; 08-09-2018 at 11:35 AM.

  8. #8
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    I might have another compressor laying around... yours might be different than my v12 one though,,,not sure

  9. #9
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    Smoke sounds like a bit more damage than a clutch. If you can get a decently priced compressor, get a new one. I managed to pick up a refurbished compressor for about $400 which isn't too bad. I was quoted at $1500 for a new one.

  10. #10
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    Fcpeuro should have them for $250, at least for the V12. I doubt the 735 version is more expensive.

    The system may also be overcharged causing the compressor not to move too easily. Worth a check. If it was the clutch it would do this regardless of the AC being on or off.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

    BMW 7er Website www.7er.com
    1989 BMW 735i Schwarz (sadly, sold) // 1989 BMW 750iL Cirrusblau Metallic // 1998 BMW 740iL Oxfordgrün Metallic // 2000 M5 Carbon Schwarz ///

  11. #11
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    Is the compressor v-belt loose? It might be turning in the pulley, while smoking and squealing.

  12. #12
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    belt is tight. I think compressor may be shot.....it stops blowing cold after the car warms up. Somebody on ebay is selling rebuilt seiki/bosch compressors for 180$, think I could gamble with that?

  13. #13
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    Following this!

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by vwleadfoot View Post
    I might have another compressor laying around... yours might be different than my v12 one though,,,not sure
    I’m not 100% certain, but I’m pretty confident that the compressors for the 3x engine families that came in the e32, are not interchangeable with each other. Can someone prove otherwise?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by whiteghost1 View Post
    I’m not 100% certain, but I’m pretty confident that the compressors for the 3x engine families that came in the e32, are not interchangeable with each other. Can someone prove otherwise?
    You are correct, the 735, 740, 750 compressors are all different.

  16. #16
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    Could he use a compressor from an E34? The 535 uses the same M30 like the 735 so I'd have to assume most of the things around it would be the same too.

  17. #17
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    Welcome back Youngster. Glad to see you back in the E32 game. I thought I would chime in here and settle up all the guessing going on with the M30 air conditioning system. I hope this will help you and others here that have questions. I always start my longer posts with "I'm not a mechanic" but for the past almost 29 years this car has not only been my only car, but because my BMW mechanic is also my best friend I've watched every repair from start to finish since 1994 when the warranty ended. My guy worked for BMW for 33 years total and knows my car better then he knows his wife. He's older now and I'm using the guy who worked in the bay next to him at BMW who also has his own little shop. Serge can certainly vouch for Peter and his knowledge of these cars.

    I find myself wanting to post this now, because I'm going through all of it this week. So, my car is an untouched 1990 735I M30 Auto with a build date of 12/89. That makes a difference with lots of parts as in July of 90 there were many changes. Right down to the wiper arms that will not accept an OEM blade from an earlier version nor will my car accept a blade geared for a car manufactured after July of that year. Living in South Florida, my car is never running without the A/C on. Summer, Winter, no matter the month......the A/C is always running. Being so, expansion valves seem to go about every three or four years. That's usually the main repair when not holding gas. Once you've seen it done, it's not that hard to do. It's a matter of loosening up both A/C pipes under the hood, dropping out the glove box and knee kick panel on the passenger's side and pulling the evaporator through. You change the valve and put things back together. About every ten years things go haywire. Holes in the Evaporator, compressor noises (like you're having now) etc. Sometimes you just need to change everything. Back in the day these parts were really expensive. The evaporator could cost you close to 600 dollars and the condenser the same. The compressor has gone from 500 to 750 to now 1050 over the years. My car refuses to hold refrigerant now and I'm sick of buying cans of A/C pro every three months to replace the 20 or so ounces that leak out. So, I went on a search for parts last week and found things much less expensive than they were years ago. This will be the second time I'm replacing just about everything since I bought the car new. Once at about 10 years old, once about 10 years ago at it's 20th birthday and again now. Luckily for me, the compressor is still holding up from 10 years ago and that won't be replaced this time around. My condenser is almost 29 years old and I have no reason to believe that there is a leak in it, but since it's original and I'm doing this job I decided to go ahead with it.

    To your question about the compressor. The original on my car (from the factory) was made by Seiko. When I replaced it 10 years ago I was able to find it and still know where they are to be found but as I said they are expensive today. This time around I decided to go with BEHR for the condenser and REIN for the evaporator. In researching here for my Blower motor a couple of months ago I was told by experienced people on this board that BEHR makes OEM parts for BMW. So I went with it and could not be happier with the purchase. To have my original blower motor last almost 29 years I guess is a blessing. The REIN Evaporator actually comes with the expansion valve attached, so one less purchase, and the BEHR dryer was under thirty dollars. It's important to remember that the evaporator for our car came in both copper and aluminum coil versions. The copper does not do well with R134a, so if you've converted find one made of aluminum. I decided to buy a new temperature control switch as it was only 17 dollars and I'm not sure if my compressor is clicking on and off while driving as it should. I also bought a packet of O rings for my guy so he has whatever he needs to put things back together.

    The expense for this was really low. A little over 325 bucks for everything. Years ago, this would have been a 1500 dollar parts buy. So I'm posting some pictures below of the parts that are on their way to me now as well as the green label (correct) compressor for your car. I recommend it because it held up for 20 years from the factory and with 10 years on this one it's still going strong. There is one from the people I bought my parts from called OMEGA. I never heard the name before but if you look at the picture of it, it seems to be the same. And......it's just over 500 instead of just over 1050. I know you can find things on Ebay for less money and there will be those who will say my car is "Overly Maintained". Very true. But it's a lifer. I hope this has helped a bit. I'll let you know at the end of next week how the install turns out. And, by the way, the people I purchased these parts from guarantee everything for life. So other than labor I'll never have to purchase these parts again. They've been around since around 2001 I believe, so they'll probably out live me.
    Jeff







    Last edited by CroughtonE32; 08-12-2018 at 09:04 PM.
    1990 735I (Auto) E32 Feb 1990 to Present
    1996 Z3 Roadster (5 Speed) E36/7 Jan 1999 to Dec 1999
    1983 733I (5 Speed) E23 April 1983 to Feb 1990
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2d4tHoHGaJo
    https://1drv.ms/v/s!Av20xCMMocSsyEpl...h_oOk?e=ekIcAT







  18. #18
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    Glad to have you back! Are you going to be switching it over to a manual?

  19. #19
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    Croughten, thanks for the great AC information, I'm amassing funds to do an overhaul eventually (a part list with FCP part numbers would be even better)

    Only thing I would have done differently from parts list, is gamble on an ebay condenser that is parallel flow style instead of the old tube-fin configuration, as R134a performs leaps and bounds better with a parallel flow condenser (as per the E24 guys).

    Quote Originally Posted by NE32 View Post
    Glad to have you back! Are you going to be switching it over to a manual?
    Unfortunately, no. I gave my old car away to a friend as I was going out of the country the day after it caught on fire, and he's already stuffed the engine and trans into some of his other projects, but at least he's compensating me with lots of free labor to come

    This car is such a nice example of E32, I'd really rather not hacked it up with a swap and just enjoy it for what it is.

    Things have been hectic here lately, I've started a new (real) job and still getting settled in with that, but when the money starts coming in, I'm going to be doing some preventative mechanical things like water pump, radiator, valve adjustment, etc. and then tackle the ratty headliner.

    Other issue I've noticed:

    1. driver's mirror works sometimes, passenger mirror not at all. What could be the cause of this?

    2. radio is displaying "code", how do I properly input the code to unlock the radio function?

    3. I've heard from some Mercedes-benz people of this vintage, that even though the original fluid called for power steering is ATF, it may be too corrosive now for the steering box, and that I should just use power steering fluid instead. Is there any truth in this? I was going to remove the old fluid and replace with synthetic ATF.

    4. Windows are slow/struggling, I'm assuming the gear needs to be cleaned and relubed. Is there a procedure for this?

    5. PO probably was too late to replace the door lock gasket....I'm almost certain the driver door bracket is fubar as the lock doesn't go up/down.

    Sorry for the delay, picture as promised:


    IMG_1996.jpg
    IMG_2196.jpg

    And with my old black euro smiley replicas installed, existing headlights had a crack in one of theme, and an actual hole in another light. I have a set of original lights someplace I need to dig up and refinish ....

    IMG_2197.jpg
    Last edited by youngbimmer; 08-27-2018 at 12:48 AM.

  20. #20
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    3. I haven't heard about this or heard of anyone having issues with their power steering. It's best to continue using whatever it came with, in this case ATF as long as it's Dex II (Dex III is also compatible with II).

    4. Lubing up your window tracks can really help with movement as they've probably dried up over time. Most people use silicone spray but there's also dry graphite powder too.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ax60oNhnh0A

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by youngbimmer View Post
    1. driver's mirror works sometimes, passenger mirror not at all. What could be the cause of this?
    On my car the driver's side was just clicking, but not moving. I replaced the drive, and then it was fine. The passenger side did nothing. The reason was that one of the previous owners had the wrong mirror installed. Cars with seat memory and without have completely different mirrors. The drive is different (two motors with seat memory, one without), the number of bolts used to attach the drive to the frame is different and the wiring is completely different. However, the plug is the same except that the pins don't match (ten pins with seat memory, only four without). You can install the wrong mirror but it will have no function. If you need a passenger-side mirror for a black car without seat memory, please let me know. I have one that I don't need anymore.

    Quote Originally Posted by youngbimmer View Post
    2. radio is displaying "code", how do I properly input the code to unlock the radio function?
    Which radio do you have? On my Pioneer KE-81 (BMW 88 88 1 600 155) I have to punch in the code using the station buttons. This radio will beep after receiving five digits. It then either works or, if the number was wrong, it will stay on "code." If I enter three wrong codes, then my radio needs to be kept on with the ignition on for one hour.

  22. #22
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    Only thing I would have done differently from parts list, is gamble on an ebay condenser that is parallel flow style instead of the old tube-fin configuration, as R134a performs leaps and bounds better with a parallel flow condenser (as per the E24 guys).

    You see, I learn something new every day. Had no idea there was a different condenser to be had. Anyway, I'll give you the part numbers you need. My car would have been ready for pick up today, but when all was done my guy found a nice size leak in the A/C discharge hose. That's the one that goes from the compressor to the condenser. All else is good now. So I ordered it from FCP, and when ordering it they saw that the BMW computer said there were only two in the country. Both were on the east coast and the price was good. Like a hundred and forty bucks. So my mechanic will have it tomorrow drop shipped from BMW and hopefully I'll have the car by end of day. The garage is very empty and I really miss the thing.
    1990 735I (Auto) E32 Feb 1990 to Present
    1996 Z3 Roadster (5 Speed) E36/7 Jan 1999 to Dec 1999
    1983 733I (5 Speed) E23 April 1983 to Feb 1990
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2d4tHoHGaJo
    https://1drv.ms/v/s!Av20xCMMocSsyEpl...h_oOk?e=ekIcAT







  23. #23
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    [QUOTE=youngbimmer;30093489]Croughten, thanks for the great AC information, I'm amassing funds to do an overhaul eventually (a part list with FCP part numbers would be even better)

    Only thing I would have done differently from parts list, is gamble on an ebay condenser that is parallel flow style instead of the old tube-fin configuration, as R134a performs leaps and bounds better with a parallel flow condenser (as per the E24 guys).

    Finally got my car back today. So here's the story. The 28 year old condenser may or may not have been leaking. For sure there was a lot of rust at the bottom where the two connections are. The front of the condenser that faces forward, was well worn and I'm glad I replaced it with the BEHR model. My mechanic showed me the difference between the OEM that came on my car in 1990 and the one he installed for me. The BEHR is for the 134a does look different as far as the flow direction. My aluminum evaporator looked pretty good considering I installed it 12 years ago. Much less wear and tear than the original copper one I pulled out of there after the cars first 15 years. It was leaking in a couple of places. Saw dye with blue light and the expansion valve was so so, considering it's South Florida. The Dryer really looked like an old piece of junk. Really needed replacing, and he installed the new pressure safety switch and the evaporator temp sensor. The bad high pressure hose that goes from the compressor to the condenser was the worst part of this leaking. He took the old hose and put one end in a bucket of water and hooked up his compressor to the other end, like he was putting air in a tire. So many bubbles coming out of the end in the water. He said "and that's with 50 pounds of pressure". Imagine how much it was leaking with the 200 lbs of pressure the compressor puts out. So.....all done.....Ice cold.....and very happy ending. He threw a little dye in the charge, so if anything comes along down the road we'll see it. But really the only thing left is the compressor and that's less than 10 years old and going strong. Oh, while he was down there doing the evaporator, he did my SWORD. I had bought one on sale from Programa about six months ago on sale at $115.00 instead of around $175.00. It was laying in the trunk and he saw it. I knew I'd need it soon enough, and since installing the evaporator you're right at the sword, he just put the new one in. For everything, parts and his nominal labor charge for around $950.00, Total. Best money spent on my E32 in years.
    Jeff

    P.S. Let me know if you need part numbers and I'l just PM you a copy of my bill from FPC Euro. It's all on there.
    Last edited by CroughtonE32; 09-01-2018 at 09:54 PM.
    1990 735I (Auto) E32 Feb 1990 to Present
    1996 Z3 Roadster (5 Speed) E36/7 Jan 1999 to Dec 1999
    1983 733I (5 Speed) E23 April 1983 to Feb 1990
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2d4tHoHGaJo
    https://1drv.ms/v/s!Av20xCMMocSsyEpl...h_oOk?e=ekIcAT







  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by youngbimmer View Post
    Other issue I've noticed:

    1. driver's mirror works sometimes, passenger mirror not at all. What could be the cause of this?

    2. radio is displaying "code", how do I properly input the code to unlock the radio function?

    3. I've heard from some Mercedes-benz people of this vintage, that even though the original fluid called for power steering is ATF, it may be too corrosive now for the steering box, and that I should just use power steering fluid instead. Is there any truth in this? I was going to remove the old fluid and replace with synthetic ATF.

    4. Windows are slow/struggling, I'm assuming the gear needs to be cleaned and relubed. Is there a procedure for this?

    5. PO probably was too late to replace the door lock gasket....I'm almost certain the driver door bracket is fubar as the lock doesn't go up/down.
    1. What Year is your car? Do you have the Memory Mirrors and Memory Seat feature? The schematics are located in section 5119 of the ETM. The Computing Brain is A21 Seat/Mirror Steering Column Memory Control module located under the drivers seat (if you have this feature fitted).

    2. If your radio is Original, then any BMW Dealer can give you the 4-digit code for your VIN. Possibly for free, now that we are Antiques.

    3. A master mechanic advised that he always uses "mineral oil" in old cars, because it does not degrade the shaft seals.

    4. I will try the Silicone spray on my slow windows. (But shogun has advised to remove and renew the grease, as I recall.)

    5. I hate working on the door locks, because the clearances are so tight! An extra 2 mm would make all the difference!

  25. #25
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    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    Quote Originally Posted by E32FAN View Post
    4. I will try the Silicone spray on my slow windows. (But shogun has advised to remove and renew the grease, as I recall.)
    Not sure what is better. In case of my car I found a lot of old hardened grease in the rail. That I removed and added new grease, worked for me, but maybe silicone spray is even better.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

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