'99 328is battery has been draining overnight, used the multimeter to find a 12.33 amp draw. pulled every fuse under the hood and whatever i could find behind the glove box, nothing changed. put it all back together and the battery held at 12.41 over night, started this am, ran it while a couple mins, turned it off. when I tried starting it again to leave for work, the battery was showing 10 amps on the meter. after charging her up, she started, while running that battery was showing 13.6-14 amps. when I got to work and turned off the ignition, the meter showed a drain of about .01 amps every 10 seconds. mechanic says it could be a bad negative cable but would have to scan to find this..
what could be causing such a heavy drain?
Have you messed with the alternator recently? I removed mine and put it back and accidentally had the small ring terminal touching the large one. It caused a large drain and I found it right away but likely would have still been there if all fuses were removed.
'94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
'93 325is Coupe, Schwarz, work beater 299k
'89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped. Sold
'04 Toyota Sienna XLE Limited AWD, In progress swapping to M50/G250, http://www.wibimmers.com/board/index...nna-25i-build/
'05 Volvo V70 R, 6mt, mostly stock, kid hauler 200k Sold
'85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
How are you hooking up the meter. And when you say you started the car and it was showing 13.6 to 14 Amps (did you mean to say volts?) Because the battery should be in a charging state when you start the car, so for it to be taking on that ~14A that would be normal.
When you got to work and saw that it was draining 10mA that is normal, that's for the computer and clock.
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hook battery up to a battery charger for a few days. If amps don't go to zero your battery should probably be replaced. How old is it? Also check for frayed wires that lead to current draws on the battery. The trunk loom is a good place to start.
I hook up the meter as follows: red lead to the negative battery cable, the black lead to the negative battery terminal on the battery. The meter reads, 12.33 when set to DCV at 20
when the car is running i am getting roughly between 13.6-14V to the battery, but the second I turn the car off the 12.33 V drain begins, so I have been disconnecting the neg battery line from the battery after i turn the car off and putting it back on when I start the car, with the assist of a jumper pack while I trouble shoot the issue. I am about to replace the neg battery cable, I have checked mostly everything else aside from the stock radio amp for draws and nothing comes up. Even took out the ECU/ TCU and the multimeter still showed 12.33.
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I hook up the meter as follows: red lead to the negative battery cable, the black lead to the negative battery terminal on the battery. The meter reads, 12.33 when set to DCV at 20
when the car is running i am getting roughly between 13.6-14V to the battery, but the second I turn the car off the 12.33 V drain begins, so I have been disconnecting the neg battery line from the battery after i turn the car off and putting it back on when I start the car, with the assist of a jumper pack while I trouble shoot the issue. I am about to replace the neg battery cable, I have checked mostly everything else aside from the stock radio amp for draws and nothing comes up. Even took out the ECU/ TCU and the multimeter still showed 12.33.
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battery is good, it was purchased I think in march or feb.
Really sounds like you are just measuring voltage across the battery...
A lot of cheap common multimeters only measure up to 10 amps before blowing its internal fuse.
Also, you should not be on the DCV setting, thats for voltage.
You should be using a clamp type current measurement.
While we could give you instructions on how to test for a parasitic draw, it would be easier for you to educate yourself and watch a bunch of youtube videos till you get a basic understanding.
https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...+battery+drain
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You are not checking for a current drain correctly. I could try to explain it but a video on youtube will be much better. Try that and report back.
'94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
'93 325is Coupe, Schwarz, work beater 299k
'89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped. Sold
'04 Toyota Sienna XLE Limited AWD, In progress swapping to M50/G250, http://www.wibimmers.com/board/index...nna-25i-build/
'05 Volvo V70 R, 6mt, mostly stock, kid hauler 200k Sold
'85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
Dude, you're measuring voltage, not current. A voltage reading will not tell you that there's a drain on the battery in the way you're thinking. If you measure it after some time and it's below 12V something is draining it, but it does not have a "12.33V drain". And based on what I could gather, everything seems fine. Your battery is 12V. While the alternator is running it's providing ~14V to recharge the battery. Which is what you're measuring.
What is the actual problem you're dealing with? Problems starting? Or are you just poking the battery with your meter and not understanding what you're reading and thinking there's a problem?
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Dude, you're measuring voltage, not current. A voltage reading will not tell you that there's a drain on the battery in the way you're thinking. If you measure it after some time and it's below 12V something is draining it, but it does not have a "12.33V drain". And based on what I could gather, everything seems fine. Your battery is 12V. While the alternator is running it's providing ~14V to recharge the battery. Which is what you're measuring.
What is the actual problem you're dealing with? Problems starting? Or are you just poking the battery with your meter and not understanding what you're reading and thinking there's a problem?
2.3 what? Amps, milliamps?
Sent from the dark side of the Moon
So one thing to be sure about is that when you turn off the car then hook up the meter you have to leave it hooked up for a certain amount of time (5 or 10 minutes) because the computer will run for a while before it goes to sleep. Also if you leave the trunk open then the light bulb in the trunk will run, so you should unplug it to get a better reading.
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Also be aware that when you are testing you must have the trunk open and the light will be on. Remove the trunk illumination bulb to make your testing accurate.
'94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
'93 325is Coupe, Schwarz, work beater 299k
'89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped. Sold
'04 Toyota Sienna XLE Limited AWD, In progress swapping to M50/G250, http://www.wibimmers.com/board/index...nna-25i-build/
'05 Volvo V70 R, 6mt, mostly stock, kid hauler 200k Sold
'85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k
I agree with everything above.
Does the trunk locking solenoid remain powered when the trunk is open? If so just removing the bulb won't be enough. Best perhaps to simply disconnect and bridge the trunk switch.
An E36 takes about 12 mins to go to sleep although some aftermarket alarms never properly sleep. You need to start your testing after 12 mins and remove any alarm fuses first (disable the siren if you have battery backup for the alarm).
As above, run your mm in A (first) and then mA mode with your mm in serial between the negative terminal and the ground (black) lead.
You will get some draw all of the time, perhaps 0.15 amps but 2+ amps is massive.
Finally, if your battery has already drained and been left like that for a few days it's probably dead irrespective of how new it is. Some smart chargers have a regeneration mode that may bring it back to life but it will never be how it was when new.
'96 M3, S50B32, 6MT
+ good stuff
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