It has an issue though. You cam drive it fine, if you drive grandma like. If you drive sporty, it seems very sluggish. Checked the codes and all are for what seem like small things. Other than that, it has been in a rear end accident but looks fine for a car to use and back and forth to work and for autocrossing.
Its got m rims and m door sills. Its a two door with the auto/sport trans.
What are normal trans issues?
No e30s again.
Lack of fluid/filter changes.
Can you post a list of all the codes displayed?
They may seem minor, but may point to the cause of your sluggishness issue.
yes, I will do a screen shot once I go pick the car up. I am going to be baby sitting it for two weeks while the owners are out of town. I get to decide if I want it or not during that time.
No e30s again.
If it's anything like the 02 330xi we just picked up, it needs the fuel filter/regulator replaced(at a minimum). Ours was still on the original after 60+k and 16 years. After a major service(filters, plugs, oil service, etc..), it really woke the car up. The fuel filter might be worth a check. Our car had no codes or DTC's in the computer.
Regards
getting the car home to work on it (owners let me take it to work on it for a few weeks while they are out of town). it is really only about a 1k dollar car. since I drove it last, a few months ago, it has gone down hill.
misfires horribly.
sounds like miles of vacuum leaks (anyone have a vacuum diagram of the engine)
won't rev passed 3500ish
mirrors don't work
door locks don't work
has a salvaged title from a rear ending back who knows when
it looks awesome but god dang, it is disheartening to think of all the stuff it needs.
pros
ac works good
has fat "m" rims
interior is nice
glass sunroof
No e30s again.
Intake leaks are the most common, due to deterioration of rubber intake boots,hoses, leading to cracks.
Remove airbox to access and remove rubber intake boots,
squeeze boots to reveal cracks(#3+#6):https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=13_0905
Misfires can also be caused by sparkplugs.
Peer inside the sparkplug wells, should be clean,dry,bright,
not dark with oil intrusion, if so you'll be purchasing a VCGasket set.
An examination of the sparkplugs condition can reveal things about the engines running conditions.
A common cause of the symptom where the engine won't rev past 3k~4k rpms is clogged cats.
a backpressure test will confirm this.
The mirrors and doorlocks are hopefully just fuses and not actuators or module.
This is just a quick little checklist I put together,
that may help you to quickly assess the immediately needed repairs.
I have ordered new intake boots. I saw someone tried to hide they were all torn up by putting rtv on the insides. I also noticed some rotted smaller rubber hoses that are just hanging and I cannot see where they hook up because of how tight the area is around this engine versus an m20 in an e30. its definitely going to be a learner process on this car.
I have all new coil packs and spark plugs and I did notice one of the old coils had burst and leaked some kind of sticky fluid into the tube leading to the plug.
I did not check the fuses on the door locks so hopefully it is that.
when I first messed with it, part of the engine harness had dropped onto the exhaust and melted. I guess it effected lots of stuff because I had to change a bunch of fuses that controlled the transmission. all the fuses a re staying now that we got a junkyard replacement harness in place though.
I have the codes that popped up when I hooked up so I will list them for yall but I am in class for an ndt refresher and have hardly any time on breaks to get online so hopefully next break
No e30s again.
p0050
p0057
p0037
p0306
p0300
p0305
p0304
p0152
that's what came up on torque when I checked them
No e30s again.
p0050-HO2S B2-S1 Heater Control Circuit
p0057-HO2S B2-S2 Heater Control Circuit Low
p0037-HO2S B1-S2 Heater Control Circuit Low
p0306-Misfire Cylinder 6
p0300-Combustion Misfires Several Cylinders
p0305-Misfire Cylinder 5
p0304-Misfire Cylinder 4
p0152-O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage Bank 2 Sensor 1
Based on those codes, I would replace burnt fuses found in the RELAY BOX fuse block.
Look here:http://fusesdiagram.com/bmw/fuse-box...bmw-3-e46.html
Then clear codes and reset adaptations if possible,
followed by a short drive cycle or idle in place till warmed up to operating temperature.
Perform a scan for fresh codes.
Last edited by MIKYZZ4; 08-09-2018 at 04:02 PM.
I will give it a shot and let you guys know what happens
No e30s again.
I finally fixed every e46 problem that was plaguing me - I got smart, dumped it Monday, and bought a Camaro SS.
I’m done with BMWs and their problems. They have successfully alienated another old long time enthusiast with their junk.
To each their own,
I'm sure you'll enjoy wrenching on your Camaro,
just as much as you have enjoyed wrenching on your e46.
To point - that’s why I got tired of the E46 routine, I want to drive a car not work on it all the time!
dang, hope this ends up being ok. well, if it doesn't, at least my kids have e30s so we only work on those for timing belts and mods we want to do.
but, as far as the fuses, not a single blown one. have to check relays today. I will try swapping the ones I can with the e30s to test and the rest, I guess see if I can apply power/ground to the incoming/ground poles and jump the switch leg and see if I get the 12v on the other leg. other than that, I am not sure how to test relays but listen for the click.
another question. how do you check the trans fluid in this car? there is no dipstick, other than the engine oil level?
No e30s again.
Automatic transmissions in most BMW models from the mid/late ’90s-on do not have fluid level dipsticks. The fluid level is checked (and fluid added) via a fill plug on the transmission fluid pan or just above the pan on the transmission body.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7YPP3L__VjQ
Different BMW models will have different fill plug locations, but the procedures for checking the fluid are the same. It is important to note that all final level checking is to be done with the transmission warm and the engine running. DO NOT remove the fill plug unless the engine is running. Doing so will allow about a quart of fluid to drain out.
got it, on the fluid checking. I am glad about the note about running and warm.
I did indeed visually check those, but not with a meter. I pulled them and held them up to the light but I can easily put the meter on them after work today.
thanks for the help so far. hopefully this car gets back up and on the road soon. its a beautiful body style
No e30s again.
one more question, while I am at work and unable to check anything, what is the zhp model? how do I tell if this is one? any particular vin code or something like that?
No e30s again.
ZHP-Available end of 2003-06,
Visuals + a VIN# check will confirm.
like in realoem or something? what should I look for on the vin that it will let me know? I googled what the visual stuff is and, to my limited little knowledge, it seems to have that stuff on it. but the vin check is the one I need
No e30s again.
Here:http://bimmer.work/
I tried that about 5 times and it errors out.
No e30s again.
I understand, it's been intermittent lately.
here's another:https://www.bmwvin.com/
Btw, did you solve the captcha before you attempted to submit?
I just tested it, works fine!
That second one worked.
VIN WBABD53424PL12999
Type Code BD53
E Series E46 (2FL)
Series 3
Type COUPE
Model 330CI (USA)
Steering LL
Doors 2
Engine M54
Displacement 3.00
Power 170
Drive HECK
Transmission AUT
Colour MYSTICBLAU METALLIC (A07)
Upholstery STANDARDLEDER/HELLBEIGE 2 (ARBEITSN (N6HC)
Prod. Date 2003-12-05
All those fuses were good by the computers. I let it warm up and took it to the little store up the road. It is ok till i hit 1/3 of a pedal and then it bogs and is like its not getting gas. Like a throttle position sensor and the fuel pressure is messed up. Oh well, more fun for tomorrow. At least i can get on the highway now.
It as one spot in the pedal throw whete everything is perfect and the car just wants to rocket away. At that hair thin area, the trans shifts perfect and the engine is smooth.
Also, i founf some loose lines and stuck on the nipples they seemed to go to. Now, if i pull the oil cap, the engine dies like it should. Dipstick causes no change in engine idle speed though so must need an o-ring, or something
No e30s again.
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