Need some help or info on our dash. I was pulling out my gauge cluster and the plastic that holds the gauge cluster and surrounds it disintegrated - plastic was so brittle it couldn't really take any flex or pressure before just falling apart. Its a FL car, and my guess from other work around the dash is that it just stood in the sun for long periods of time and dry-rotted. I have a spare dash that's in better shape, but really dred the idea of swapping them. Can that plastic trim be reinstalled without pulling the entire dash?
I wonder specifically how much effect the weather here in FL has on the BMW plastics. Plastics are super brittle in my car too. I am in NE FL. The trim cover by the windshield on my car ( I don't think your M has this) literally came out in about 50 or so pieces. I need to pull my dash to replace it properly, but I think it may snowball into major cost replacing plastics by the time I have the dash out.
Stubbornness is a virtue....
Mine was built in 10/96 and the plastics are OK. It has been garaged when not driven.
BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405
Exactly. It does not matter if the part was exposed to the sun or not, it crumbles or at least cracks if you try to do anything with it. It is not confidence inspiring when it comes to considering any interior work. It almost seems easier to learn to work with carbon fiber and replace everything with that.
Stubbornness is a virtue....
I keep my 98 covered to try and avoid this issue.
Also in N Florida.
The summer sun is a killer on these 20 yeR old plastic parts.
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1st photo is back side of Roadster dashboard. 2nd photo is back side of Coupe dashboard. The Coupe doesn't have that trim cover. The 3rd photo is the dashboard removed. I replaced my Roadster dashboard with the Coupe dashboard. Note that the 6 screws holding the dashboard cover piece that can only be accessed from underneath. However, there are some forum members who think differently. The trim cover piece (#21) in the diagram https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_4082 can be purchased from ecsturning.com
https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/51458410975/
Last edited by MORRIE; 08-07-2018 at 12:35 PM.
I suppose once I get this other car out of my shop I can tear mine down and not be in a hurry to get it back together. I might run some cables while I have it apart. I am itching for a new head unit, etc, but can't afford all of it right now. I have a brand new trim cover ready to go in, but need to order the plugs that go in the holes. Morrie, I appreciate the pics. When it comes to pulling the steering wheel, is there a special one for these or will a universal steering wheel puller work?
I am considering spraying this trim cover with some no sheen UV resistant clear. Is there a reason why this might be a poorly thought out idea?
Stubbornness is a virtue....
You don't need a steering wheel puller. The airbag comes out with two Torx bolts, and the wheel comes off with a standard socket. The size alludes me, but probably 17mm or 19mm.
Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
The 2 torx bolts are in the rear of the steering wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock. Be sure you get them secure when removing - they're at an odd angle and they can be tricky if you're not careful. Then as stated above, 17 or 19mm to remove the steering wheel bolt and the wheel just pulls out.
This thread is what I used to help me pull the dashboard....very detailed with photos. Note that I did NOT remove any of the column switches. Hope this helps. https://www.zroadster.net/forum/view...360432#p360432
Wow, very detailed. Bookmarked. Many thanks Morrie.
- - - Updated - - -
Great to hear there is no special tool required for removing the steering wheel as well. Thanks guys.
Stubbornness is a virtue....
Thanks - I reviewed that earlier - great write up. I didn't need to pull the center console out as long as the screws were removed. I pulled the old dash out last night, and will try to pull the newer one out of my M tonight before I make some cosmetic changes so that it matches the center console and gauge panel.
Maybe take some photos and share with us along with details. It could help others who are considering replacing their trim cover.
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They're not at an odd angle if you turn your steering wheel 90 degrees each way when removing. After the bolts are out (they stay put in the wheel IIRC), I turn the wheel back to center, remove the key to lock the wheel, and take the airbag out. Then I mark the steering wheel and hub with a punch or a marker for alignment. When removing the wheel, use your muscle as counter force so you're not stressing anything (that link says not necessary but I still brace the wheel). Easy peasy. Oh, and sounds like the nut is 16mm.
2nd photo shows the bolt protruding through the wheel.
20170118_145706.jpg20160527_144054.jpg
Last edited by s8ilver; 08-21-2018 at 03:07 PM.
Nathan in Denver
1999 M Roadster, VFE V3 S/C, Randy Forbes Reinforced, Hardtop, H&R/Bilstein, Apex PS-7, Supersprint
1999 Z3 2.8 Coupe, Headers, 3.46, Manual Swap, H&R/Koni, M Geometry/Brakes, M54B30 Manifold, Style 42
Its not the orientation of the steering wheel that's odd, its the head of the screws that aren't as easy to engage as it would be if they weren't embedded in the back of the wheel. I've removed multiple steering wheels from BMWs and they all have the same setup, and they always seem to be hard to get the head of the screw engaged with the driver.
When you rotate the wheel, you can fit a ratchet with a small extension into the hole that is on the bottom very easily, and unscrew it. It's exceptionally difficult if you try to unscrew it without rotating the wheel
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Back to the original topic - dash replaced and ready to put the rest of the interior back (not much going back in though).20180829_185358.jpg
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