530i die after 1km + start back after cooling down - solved, fusible link replaced

[boy2nd]

ok guys , this red whale causing some problem again , i only drive 1km and she dies in front of my house . after cooling it down 15-30min she's start again . what problem causing this ?
anybody have recomended some cheap scanner compatible with 530i m60 euro spec e34 ? my e34 doesn't have check engine light even i swap bulb from srs light

[shogun]

check the fusible links https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...=fusible+links
one goes from battery to the e-box where the main relay is.
Stomp test does not work on EU E34.
Is the fuel pump running? Check the fuel line for pressure when engine dies.

[boy2nd]

fuelpump running , i'll check my fusible link in front of battrey ,but in engine compartement there is nothing.
car still can cranking after die .

Edit : Sorry ,ii'll check that 2 fusible link , 1 in black box another in heatshrink

[shogun]

for engine running the one in heatshrink is important, the other one goes to the fuse box under the rear seat.
here some more details https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...=fusible+links
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...link-with-pics

[zubbie]

Note that a bad fusible link may visually look fine. Hairline cracks are hard to see but work when cold but fail when heated up (and expand)

[moroza]

Fusible link won't make it die randomly. That's most likely fuel pressure or intake leaks.

[shogun]

I know many cases where a fusible link made the engine die randomly. Best example is the E32 750 of my wrenching buddy. It sometimes worked perfect, then it could for example happen that he drove shopping, wanted to start the engine at the shopping center, no start. He had many such cases, sometimes it worked, sometimes not. When we finally found the problem, it was a hairline crack in the fusible link. As zubbie mentioned: "Hairline cracks are hard to see but work when cold but fail when heated up (and expand)".
another one solved with fusible link probs
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http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/648482 735i died, no start on side of road. Hey guys, I've lent my 735i to a friend, and it's died on the side of the road and won't start. It cranks fine, but doesn't try to fire. He said that twice in the last two days it has just quit on him, and then re-started after lengthy cranking. This time, he couldn't get it to re-start. He said that each time there was no indication that it was going to die, one moment it was running, the next, dead. I'll go and check for fuel and spark, but by the symptoms given to me I assume it's a spark issue. What are some simple things that I can try on the side of the road to possibly get it running and/or diagnosed?
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Thanks shogun, It was the fusible link. I had the car started within 5 minutes of getting there.
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Of course the problem could be also something else, but better to check the fusible link too.

[ross1]

My guess is unmetered air, vacuum leak, probably a big one, that causes it to die right after the cold running enrichment ceases.
Check for torn rubber intake "boot" between the air meter and the throttle body. The PCV plate at the back of the intake manifold is a notorious leaker, sometimes one of the hoses connect to it come off too.

- - - Updated - - -

[Sir Montalbon]

causes it to die right after the cold running enrichment ceases.

This reminded me that I once had a guibo explode and take out an o2 sensor's wiring, creating a short. The car would start fine cold, but instantly die a few minutes later when the DME went to check the o2 signal. DIS confirmed the short and a wiring repair and new sensor got the car relieable again.

I also have had a case where the car randomly bucked and threw TRANS PROGRAM randomly, then one day just died (luckily in my driveway). That was the "second" fusible link, under the rear passenger carpet.

Hope one of these expales can help you out, good luck.

[ross1]

This reminded me that I once had a guibo explode and take out an o2 sensor's wiring, creating a short. The car would start fine cold, but instantly die a few minutes later when the DME went to check the o2 signal. DIS confirmed the short and a wiring repair and new sensor got the car relieable again.

I also have had a case where the car randomly bucked and threw TRANS PROGRAM randomly, then one day just died (luckily in my driveway). That was the "second" fusible link, under the rear passenger carpet.

Hope one of these expales can help you out, good luck.

Wonky O2 sensor is an excellent suggestion and fits the scenario better than my suggestion of unmetered air, can most definitely cause the described symptoms.
Will unplugging the temp sensor cause it to go full rich or the other way?

[Avec]

Wonky O2 sensor is an excellent suggestion and fits the scenario better than my suggestion of unmetered air, can most definitely cause the described symptoms.
Will unplugging the temp sensor cause it to go full rich or the other way?

Any fault or lack of input causes it go to full rich.

[moroza]

Hm. The fusible links are between the battery and the rest of the electrical system, so a bad fusible link could cause a no/low-voltage situation when attempting to start the car, but it shouldn't kill one that's running, if the alternator is doing its job. The DME and everything else in the front power distribution circuit are connected to the alternator without a fuse. However, anything in the rear power distribution circuit is powered through both fusible links at all times. This includes the GM and the wipers, OBC, some lights, radio, windows, locks, and more.

But maybe the wiring diagrams are not that trustworthy. For 1994 M60 cars they show no fusible links at all.

[shogun]

quote DUDMD: To prove some you wrong, a 9/93 540i M60 has two fusible links. One that is attached to the body right next to the battery(80amp), and another in a smaller power cable (looks like 8gauge) that runs together to the front with the main power cable. Its the 50amp fusible link that is hidden under the heatshrink wrap. https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...=fusible+links

On my website there are the details (pics and excerpts from ETM) for E32 and probably the same applies for the E34:
Fusible link A: X6400 is the power post inside the E box. It feeds only DME loads. Fusible Link A is 50 Amps. E32: Page 1361-01 for M30 and 1367-00 for M70.
Fusible link B: Fusible B is 80 Amps. It feeds all the Rear Power Box loads, Page 0670-10

[moroza]

My 4/93 530iT had at least one fusible link in a black plastic housing near the battery under the seat (I never checked for the shrink-wrapped other one). My point was that the schematics suggest DME issues due to fusible link issues are impossible, but because the diagrams are wrong about M60 links, they could be wrong about other things too. You're saying the power post is a fusible link? Of course that could explain sudden dying. Is it prone to the same cracking as the normal ones by the battery?

[shogun]

you are right, ETMs are not always correct. The power post in e-box is not the fusible link, the inline fusible link which powers the e-box/DME loads is in the red cable/line (the shrink wrapped one) from battery towards engine bay, close to the battery. see the pics posted before. Here again from E32 , first 2 pics are fusible link A http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/377728/
E32 Fusible link A = X6400 is the power post inside the E box. It feeds only DME loads in e-box. E-box E32: http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/e_box/fuse_box.html see the red wire and the power post.
Here in the 1989 E34 ETM that power post is called X1540 B+ Junction box for e-box , page 7100-0-13 http://shark.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/BMW/e34/e34_89.pdf
double check it, I just rushed thru the ETM

[moroza]

Those are the diagrams I have. They show no fusible links between the alternator and the DME in an M60 E34.

The power post in e-box is not the fusible link

E32 Fusible link A = X6400 is the power post inside the E box.

??

[shogun]

I know, but DUDMD showed on his 9/93 E34 540 the 2 fusible links with pics. That is all I can say, I do not have an E34 here to check. So maybe you check on your E34.
copied a comment from E32Fan, which is the electronic expert on the E32 forum: If your Fusible Link A is intermittent, then the voltage at post X1540 will be low and fluctuating. This is easy to measure, at D100 Diagnostic Connector, pin 14. Pin numbers are shown on page 8500.0.20 X1532. And the numbers are molded into the connector. This is shown on page 1360-01 in the ETM. http://shark.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/BMW/e32/e32_89.pdf
Pin 14 is battery power, see here the pinout http://pinoutguide.com/CarElectronic...g_pinout.shtml

[bimmernub]

Fuel injectors stick when they get hot, and your fuel trims negative max and starve the engine. Or maybe dying fuel pump? I'd check the fuel trims. If they max positive, fuel pump dying. If they re going hard negative may be fuel injector. This assuming it's not a catalytic converter clogged or messed up EGR valve or somethi ng

[boy2nd]

Hello , very busy week in here , i still didn't have time to check my e34 + fusible link , in here hard to find 50A fuse , it's safe upgrade to 60A ones?

2nd question : my car seems don't have a oxygen sensor , ill give you photo next day (+7 GMT) in here . the 2 ports its in there but no wire / sensor connected
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[shogun]

Not a good idea to use a higher A fuse, stay with 50A. google for 50 Amp In-Line Circuit Breaker Stereo/Audio/Car/RV 50A/50AMP Fuse 12V

please post the VIN.

[moroza]

it's safe upgrade to 60A ones?

No. Never replace a fuse with a higher-rated one.

[boy2nd]

Ill post my chasis number and engine number , in Indonesia doesn't have a VIN , i already search in windshield , all 4 doors
It's safe using a tube type fuse ? Or must be a mini ANL fuse ?, before it die the tachometer is jumping around

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[ross1]

Ostensibly, your chassis #, BH25096 would be the last seven digits of the VIN but it will not decode
You have the fusible links circled correctly. I do not think either is your problem but it would sure be an easy fix if so.
It is easy enough, next time the car dies, to TEMPORARILY jump them to see if the fault remains.

[boy2nd]

fusible link is in tight place , maybe i should remove the front seat and side trim ?
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IMG_9585.JPG

[shogun]

yes, if necessary remove the seat to have a good check of the fusible link. As ross1 says, TEMPORARILY jump/bridge the fuse to test.