Hakeem’s BMW 530i

[mattmar1]

i usually use the pierburg pump, got my last one from fcpeuro, was under $100

[AusE39er]

Man if I lived in the states I'd get everything from FCP. Even being in Australia, they are the best as far as postage goes. Can't beat that lifetime warranty either.

Piersburg is the way to go for sure.

[Hakeem530i]

Rockauto not a great supplier unfortunately. Some nightmare stories about CS / returns with them. They don't have a phone number anymore for one.

What pump did you buy? There's another thread talking about possibly bad replacement pumps fro 540's but what I see on Rockauto for a 530 is either a Uro (UGGGGH NO) or a Delphi (..mmmmmaybe....) or a Bosch (good... IF its really a Bosch and not some rebranding thing)

Rechecking my order I see it was supposedly a Bosch pump. Looks like it was rebranded which I wasn’t expecting. Hopefully my return experience will be better.

The picture above looks like the Bosch pump from the picture on Rock Auto.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...383274&jsn=391

Yup that’s the one.

i usually use the pierburg pump, got my last one from fcpeuro, was under $100

Think I paid close to the same for the Bosch pump. Couldn’t find it on fcpeuro for some reason but it looks like they have it back in stock now.

Man if I lived in the states I'd get everything from FCP. Even being in Australia, they are the best as far as postage goes. Can't beat that lifetime warranty either.

Piersburg is the way to go for sure.

Same here. Bought all my other parts from there and never had a bad experience with them. Shipping always arrives early too.

[bjornk]

Do you have a sucky jet pump thing on your engine ? Isn’t that contraption in the general vicinity you are talking about searching for a vacuum leak?rear engine driver side...coming off the booster...


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[geargrinder]

Rechecking my order I see it was supposedly a Bosch pump. Looks like it was rebranded which I wasn’t expecting.

Yeah. I've had loads of Bosch pumps in my hands ("044", "040", etc.) and that looks about as NOT A BOSCH OEM PUMP as I can imagine. Some racey "Automotive" stamp on the side? Sketchy.

FWIW in that other thread where 540i fuel pumps are being discussed, I posted up that ECS has a "Huco" pump on sale for like $33. An ECS rep rang in to sing the praises of the Huco pump after I said something about "who knows how long that will last". You could give one of those a try at pretty low risk.

Oddly the other day FCP wasn't showing the Pierburg but now its there. $100.

[Hakeem530i]

Yeah. I've had loads of Bosch pumps in my hands ("044", "040", etc.) and that looks about as NOT A BOSCH OEM PUMP as I can imagine. Some racey "Automotive" stamp on the side? Sketchy.

FWIW in that other thread where 540i fuel pumps are being discussed, I posted up that ECS has a "Huco" pump on sale for like $33. An ECS rep rang in to sing the praises of the Huco pump after I said something about "who knows how long that will last". You could give one of those a try at pretty low risk.

Oddly the other day FCP wasn't showing the Pierburg but now its there. $100.

Thanks. Think I’ll stick to the OEM pump for now to avoid having to do this twice again.

I’ll buy it in coming days but will try figuring out my electrical issues until then since it’s getting cold. Still having issues with my driver side headlight coming on. Have to flick the switch or keep the lights on and switch it on and off for it to come on. Tried replacing the LCM, bulbs and ballasts. Checked grounds on the side of the fenders as well. Does anyone know if the headlights are connected to ground anywhere else in the car (under the seats for example)? If not then I’m guessing it might be inside the housing.

[Hakeem530i]

I have some good news and bad news.

Seems I figured out the issue with my lights. It was a bad battery. The car would always start fine but I realised that the lights started to “fade on” On cold start or not come on at all so I expected it to be the battery. Changed and it’s turned on every time since then.

The bad news is I think My m56 valve cover has a bad CCV which is the cause of the p0171 and p0174 codes.

Tried testing it before work with a plastic bag to show how strong vacuum is but kinda hard to do with one hand. Oil cap is also hard to remove which confirms my suspicion. You can also hear how drastic the idle changes.

https://youtu.be/3OZebkIo5LY



The ccv “membrane” in the m56 valve cover is under a cap on the top as shown above. Problem is the cap is impossible to remove without breaking. The membrane is also takes a month to be delivered from Russia so that’ll take a while.

I got my Vc from 50skid from a junkyard so I’m not sure of its condition but I do have an extra m56 valve cover that I can install that was said to be running prior to removing it.

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[öILBüRNER]

Awesome work so far Hakeem.

It's interesting that the M56 valve cover has a membrane? What is that for exactly? It seems odd that it would have anything to do with the CCV. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

When I did my OEM CCV delete, I kept the M54 valve cover, ran a vacuum hose from the valve cover to a catch can, and from the catch can to a PCV, then a vacuum hose back to the air distribution pipe on the intake manifold. I also plugged the oil return on the dipstick tube.

[Hakeem530i]

Awesome work so far Hakeem.

It's interesting that the M56 valve cover has a membrane? What is that for exactly? It seems odd that it would have anything to do with the CCV. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

When I did my OEM CCV delete, I kept the M54 valve cover, ran a vacuum hose from the valve cover to a catch can, and from the catch can to a PCV, then a vacuum hose back to the air distribution pipe on the intake manifold. I also plugged the oil return on the dipstick tube.

Thanks, IIRC, The m56 membrane is the same as the membrane that’s inside the separator under the manifold. Not exactly sure what it does but I heard it had something to do with vacuum? Not exactly sure.

And You’re correct, it wasn’t the VC after all. After some more testing I found out that it was my MAF sensor causing the codes and the issues on cold start. I disconnected it and the codes went away and it idles perfectly on cold start.

Also noticed the car ran really rough if I removed the dipstick but Issue stopped after I swapped the MAF from my moms car.

Waiting on a used MAF, after that I should have a codeless car.

Changed a few things since I last updated.

I tore the intake boot


Replacement


Changed my Throttle Body gasket as well while I was there



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[geargrinder]

Just a couple terminology tips that might help when searching for other references/threads...

Thanks, IIRC, The m56 membrane is the same as the membrane that’s inside the separator under the manifold.

Yeah more often thats called a "diaphragm". Technically 'membrane' isn't exactly a bad word for it either, but its not what guys generally call it: "the CCV diaphragm".
Yes its supposed to moderate the vacuum to some degree and also act as a check valve (aka one way valve) so worst case if there's a backfire in the intake it can't blow into the crankcase.

I tore a vacuum hose

Yeah and that's normally called an "intake boot" (and the part that tore is the ICV side...) whereas a 'vacuum hose' usually refers to something smaller that is not part of the the main intake tube system. More like the little small diameter side hoses.

[Hakeem530i]

Just a couple terminology tips that might help when searching for other references/threads...



Yeah more often thats called a "diaphragm". Technically 'membrane' isn't exactly a bad word for it either, but its not what guys generally call it: "the CCV diaphragm".
Yes its supposed to moderate the vacuum to some degree and also act as a check valve (aka one way valve) so worst case if there's a backfire in the intake it can't blow into the crankcase.



Yeah and that's normally called an "intake boot" (and the part that tore is the ICV side...) whereas a 'vacuum hose' usually refers to something smaller that is not part of the the main intake tube system. More like the little small diameter side hoses.

Thanks for the clarification. I now feel like a little embarrassed after rereading my post lol. I typed this when I was at work on night shift so I was a bit tired when I posted this. I don’t know how I called it a “vacuum hose” when I literally had to search “Intake boot” to buy it on FCPEuro.

I was thinking of the vacuum hoses at the back of the intake that runs to the air injection valve that I also need to replace. Part #3 and #4

[Hakeem530i]

Finally got rid of my check engine light and all codes after swapping my MAF sensor.





I’m also still running an m56 valve cover on my pre 09/02 car so I can confirm now that swapping covers and harness from a later car won’t trigger the light and that my code was unrelated.


Next is :
fuel pump
Finding the source of my car vibration at 75-80mph - Need to check my tires and the CSB Mounting to recheck if the shop remounted it correctly after removing my driveshaft
OFHG
Cooling system
Lighting upgrade


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[Hakeem530i]

It really sucks that the pierburg pumps are no longer available.

Almost every aftermarket fuel pump I try doesn’t have a check valve, which means I have to prime the car every time the car sits to get it to start.

I replaced my pump with a Quantum Fuel pump (due to the $60 cost). Works fine except for the issue mentioned the above.



To try to fix the issue, I installed an in-line check valve that’s been working for a few weeks but began acting up.


I’ll try replacing the check valve. This would be a lot easier if we had an Pierburg pumps back .


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[itsbrokeagain]

Nice to see you figured out the lean codes. Mine was throwing a p0174 and turned out to be the disa valve o-ring was shot.

[Hakeem530i]

Nice to see you figured out the lean codes. Mine was throwing a p0174 and turned out to be the disa valve o-ring was shot.

Yup. It took me a min to figure out. Now my car is throwing a P0420 code which I'm assuming is the cats because I already replaced all my O2 sensors. I'm hoping I can clear the code and get it to pass emissions because I don't feel like going through all that hassle to replace it.

[Hakeem530i]

After owning my car for almost a year I decided to overhaul the cooling system. I even pulled the manifold to replace the heater pipes.

Also replaced the brake booster vacuum pump.


Did the oil filter housing gasket and vanos oil line while I was there.

Manifold gaskets were done as well as ccv delete since I have the m56 manifold.


This is how my engine bay looks now.


I've had to disconnect my maf sensor due to a vacuum leak but found it was due to a missing vacuum cap. Car runs fine with the maf connected now.

Only thing I have left to replace is my cats and I will be done with all maintenance. I just passed emissions so I have a year to take care of it.

According to my list, so far I've done :

Thermostat - 7/18
Oxygen sensor - 7/18
Oil - 7/18
Top Power steering reservoir/lines - 8/18
Brake pads/rotor/sensors -9/18
Water Pump - 11/18
Spark plugs - 11/18
Thermostat - 12/18
Idler/ hydraulic tensioner - 12/18
HID bulbs - 12/18
PS/Idler/WP Pulleys - 12/18
Driveshaft - 11/18
Guibo - 11/18
Transmission mount - 11/18
Flywheel/Flex Disc - 12/18
Oil - 12/18
CCV - 1/19
VC Gasket - 1/19
Spark Plug Gasket - 1/19
M56 VC - 1/19
Battery - 2/19
Tires - 3/19
OFHG - 5/19
Vanos oil line - 5/19
Oil change - 5/19 - 220000
Radiator
Coolant pipes
Coolant hoses
Brake booster vacuum pump

Almost there

[ctrout]

Nice work, and a great thread. I just picked up a 2001 530i/5 a little over a month ago, so I've been doing some similar work. Mine only had a few minor issues though. Oh, and I paid twice as much for my car initially. I wonder if you total everything up, including the purchase price, if we would have similar expenses. I'm into mine for a total of $4661 right now. That doesn't include the Dinan CAI that I installed just because I wanted to. It does include cosmetic bodywork though. Here's everything that I've done so far. http://www.motorlogbook.com/ctrout/530i

[Hakeem530i]

Nice work, and a great thread. I just picked up a 2001 530i/5 a little over a month ago, so I've been doing some similar work. Mine only had a few minor issues though. Oh, and I paid twice as much for my car initially. I wonder if you total everything up, including the purchase price, if we would have similar expenses. I'm into mine for a total of $4661 right now. That doesn't include the Dinan CAI that I installed just because I wanted to. It does include cosmetic bodywork though. Here's everything that I've done so far. http://www.motorlogbook.com/ctrout/530i

That's fair. I just calculated and if I were to add everything up (including car cost) I'd be at $5,683. $2000 of that was emergency maintenance. $1800 for the car, the rest is for preventative maintenance. I do have brand new brakes, reman driveshaft, ccv (m56 valve cover) and had to take my car to the shop to replace a cracked flywheel and pay for labor so those weren't cheap. I also replaced everything in my engine bay except for cps. O2 sensors, vacuum hoses etc are all new.

My car also needs cats so I'll be up to $6400 when done assuming I wont pay for labor(Going with schmeidmann or cheaper if I go pre-facelift cats). Honestly I could have a running car for 1/4 of what I paid but after bad experiences with badly maintained BMWs in the family I'm very OCD when it comes to maintenance. When buying this car I kinda decided I'll take the hit and do whatever it takes to have a "perfect" car and not half-ass anything or have to replace twice.

So far, I've been locked inside a car, had one catch on fire, have the hood fly open at 50mph, had the sunroof fly off lol, had the muffler fall off, had gas leak, had car overheat on my first day of college etc, so I'm pulling my scanner out as soon as the SES light, airbag light or any light comes on and popping the hood if I ever hear a peep lol. I still don't regret my purchase though and would gladly do it again.

[ctrout]

Oh, I agree completely with your reasoning. When I got mine, I was looking for one with the 5 speed manual, exceptional body and interior, and preferably below 50k miles. I was trying to keep my purchase price to $3500. There were two that I found in the U.S. One was in Maryland, the other in Portland, OR. The one in Portland was close enough to drive home in one day, so I flew out and picked it up on a Sunday. I broke my budget by $200. I just got lucky that it had been very well cared for and there was very little that it needed. I enjoy spending time maintaining my BMW, so I look for things to fix, maintain, or upgrade constantly.

[Hakeem530i]

The lens took 2 months to get delivered. Finally threw them on the car.




Looks alot better than the Depot ones. I tried wiring up the quads with relays but they flicker on cold start when I turn them on. I talked to TRS and they said I need a capacitor so I have them wired as bixenons for now until I wire up the capacitor.


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[98OrientBlue]

I just posted this on a separate thread. I get around the flicker by using standard automotive relays. The coil turn-on time is long enough to suppress the LCM test probes.

[Hakeem530i]

I just posted this on a separate thread. I get around the flicker by using standard automotive relays. The coil turn-on time is long enough to suppress the LCM test probes.

Thanks for the tip. Do you have a link to the specific relay you used?


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[98OrientBlue]

Thanks for the tip. Do you have a link to the specific relay you used?

Any automotive relay will work. I think I got mine at RadioShack

[Hakeem530i]

Any automotive relay will work. I think I got mine at RadioShack

Got it to work by coding off xenons. Only downside is it also disabled the angel eyes. I'm not worried about it now since I plan on eventually running it from the ignition.



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[itsbrokeagain]

Looking good buddy. My 0171 and 0174 codes on my X5 were due to a crappy DISA O ring. The whole unit was acting up anyway so I just replaced it.

Sucks to hear about the fuel pump, mine was crapping out after sitting for months so I ordered a cheap one off amazon just to freshen it up. Guess I'm going to have fun with losing prime lol