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Thread: Air Conditioner Condenser

  1. #1
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    Air Conditioner Condenser

    I am replacing my AC Condenser. Can I recharge the system using an over the counter refrigerant recharge bottle, or do I need to have the system professionally recharged?

  2. #2
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    You need the machine to do it correctly

  3. #3
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    bmw 850
    You will need to vacuum all the air out after you change the condenser. You will need to also change the air drier once the system has been opened to air so it is not something you can do at home unless you have the right equipment.

  4. #4
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    Although strictly you should change the drier - I've changed my compressor once and condenser twice now without doing so - and in super-hot UK today I'm still cool as a cucumber!

    https://www.meeknet.co.uk/E31/timms_...eplacement.htm

    I always take the car to one of those 'A/C service for £45' places and get it cleared out, vacuum-tested and re-gassed with an automatic machine - they hate me as they always lose money due to the 1.5Kg of R132a needed!

    https://www.meeknet.co.uk/gen_bmw/BM...nditioning.pdf
    Last edited by Timm; 08-03-2018 at 11:47 AM.
    Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i


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  5. #5
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    If you open the system, you should always replace the Dryer/Accumulator. It is also a good time to flush out the evaporator and replace the expansion valve that is mounted to it. I just did this last weekend and the A/C is super cold now.
    Also, replace all of the O-rings at all junction points. These cars are at the age where everything rubber is failing. You can purchase a box of various green O-rings at Harbor Freight for literally less than $10 (money well spent). I also used A/C flush on all the pipes (do NOT put the flush through the compressor.

    I vacuumed down the system for 1-1/2 hours to remove ALL traces of moisture and then charged everything with fresh Freon. Do NOT forget to add the correct oil in the correct amount, or else failure will be imminent.
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  6. #6
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    I don't want to recharge the system twice if the dryer turns out to be bad. But I did replace the dryer three or four years ago, and the shop charged quite a bit to replace it. I believe it is tucked under the dash and not a job I can likely do myself. I replaced the condenser with a new one rather than repair the brackets that hold the auxiliary fan in place. Otherwise the A/C was working just fine. Do I need to replace the dryer simply because removing the condenser opened the system to air and moisture, or is it because when the condenser is replaced, both the condenser and dryer are likely original twenty year old parts? My dryer is only four years old at most, and since replacing it, I have not logged more than 500 miles on the car which only has 77,000 original miles.

    Do i still need to replace the dryer and if anyone has tackled the job themselves, I would be interested in learning how it is done. Thanks again

    Jolo

  7. #7
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    From the manual. Should download this.

    Dryer removal.JPG

    Also a view of the dryer from above with some items removed in this link.

    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ighlight=dryer

    I did this some time ago and remembering the dryer to not be too much. The job was not that difficult. I need to replace the dryer since the system leaked. You should also add oil to the system to compensate for the oil that is in the items that you replace.

  8. #8
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    Thanks Mike

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jolo3361 View Post
    I don't want to recharge the system twice if the dryer turns out to be bad. But I did replace the dryer three or four years ago, and the shop charged quite a bit to replace it. I believe it is tucked under the dash and not a job I can likely do myself. I replaced the condenser with a new one rather than repair the brackets that hold the auxiliary fan in place. Otherwise the A/C was working just fine. Do I need to replace the dryer simply because removing the condenser opened the system to air and moisture, or is it because when the condenser is replaced, both the condenser and dryer are likely original twenty year old parts? My dryer is only four years old at most, and since replacing it, I have not logged more than 500 miles on the car which only has 77,000 original miles.

    Do i still need to replace the dryer and if anyone has tackled the job themselves, I would be interested in learning how it is done. Thanks again

    Jolo
    I just bought a dryer for under $50, and it took literally 5 minutes to take the old one off and put the new one in. Remove right front tire and fender liner in the front. The dryer is right there. Replace both O-rings. Just because you had it replaced 3-4 years ago, doesn’t mean anything if your system has been compromised, do it once right, and not worry about doing it again for quite a while.
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  10. #10
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    Dryer Replacement

    Quote Originally Posted by TxGR8White View Post
    I just bought a dryer for under $50, and it took literally 5 minutes to take the old one off and put the new one in. Remove right front tire and fender liner in the front. The dryer is right there. Replace both O-rings. Just because you had it replaced 3-4 years ago, doesn’t mean anything if your system has been compromised, do it once right, and not worry about doing it again for quite a while.
    Because the rear allen head bolt is very difficult to reach, I must admit it did not take this amateur 5 minutes or even 30, so the fact that I used the incorrect sized green o-ring has me removing the dryer once again. I used a size comparable to what I removed and of course a little thicker than the worn o-rings, but it still flunked the leak test. Can anyone advise the correct o-ring size for:
    • the dryer-both appear to be the same size
    • the condenser has two sizes
    • the compressor. I replaced the one accessible from the top. Guess I should attempt to replace the other as well if I can find it.


    Thanks much, I want to finally get this right.

    Joe

  11. #11
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    The condenser uses 11.1mm x 1.75 section and 14mm x 1.75 section. Part numbers 64508390602 and 64508390603.

    This diagram shows that the dryer size is two of 14mm x 1.75 section, the compressor uses 11.1mm x 1.75 section and 14mm x 1.75 section

    P.S. Never use an o-ring from one of those assortments, you won't find the right size - just look at the dimensions BMW used!
    Last edited by Timm; 09-08-2018 at 03:31 PM.
    Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i


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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timm View Post
    The condenser uses 11.1mm x 1.75 section and 14mm x 1.75 section. Part numbers 64508390602 and 64508390603.

    This diagram shows that the dryer size is two of 14mm x 1.75 section, the compressor uses 11.1mm x 1.75 section and 14mm x 1.75 section

    P.S. Never use an o-ring from one of those assortments, you won't find the right size - just look at the dimensions BMW used!


    Thanks Timm much appreciated. I'll head to the BMW Parts counter.

    Joe

  13. #13
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    Well I installed the correct ORings in the Condensor, Dryer and Compressor. Did a pressure test and the system was fine until it suddenly popped and lost pressure. My guess is I blew a hose. Any thoughts on where the weak link may be. I surely hope it is not the evaporator. It sounds like it is coming from the passenger side under the hood not under the dash, but I just can't pin point it. Anyone have a similar experience?

  14. #14
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    You either need a sniffer, or add dye to the refrigerant and use an UV torch
    Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i


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  15. #15
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    Check the dryer to make sure it actually fits. I ordered an OEM one made by ACM and it didn’t fit worth a crap. The bracket to bolt it to the car was off by about a 1/4 inch and the holes for the hose fitting to bolt in to the dryer itself were drilled a couple mm to close together so it wouldn’t ever sit completely flush.

    It was subtle but enough to leak.
    Last edited by killian665; 10-11-2018 at 09:26 PM.

  16. #16
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    When I brought it back to have the ac recharged, after replacing the o rings, the dryer leaked again and the culprit was exactly as you describe. The allen head bolts were too long and bottomed out so the O rings were not seating. Sometimes you do get what you pay for. The price was too good to be true. If I ever find the remaining leak in the system, I hope this dryer works.

  17. #17
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    When the a/c mechanic put shorter bolts in the drier, he must have stripped the threads on the connection closest to the fender well. Either he did not realize it or he did not want to tell me when the system leaked. There must be a reason he did not charge me. I ran dye in the system and the leak was apparent at that connection. I took the Drier out and ran the bolt all the way in and it kept turning. It should not have stripped so easily, so I can't blame the mechanic. I chalk this up to a very cheap, poor quality Drier from ROCKAUTO.COM It is often difficult to identify a true OEM supplier, so can anyone give me a good quality Drier that is truly up to OEM standards. I have checked everywhere including EBAY and you can find Driers in abundance. I know I can drop by my BMW dealer, but I don't want to pay dealer prices. GETBMWPARTSONLINE.COM has a pretty expensive OEM drier which I would purchase, but after you place your order with them and pay for it, they advise the part is backordered and they have no idea when they will get it imported from Germany. I need the part asap. Any ideas what brand is a good quality OEM replacement?

  18. #18
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    I put a rockauto dryer in our 840 several months ago. The mounting block is not any different than the OEM one. If the connection is not 100% lined up and parallel to each side, you will strip the threads (on both OEM and aftermarket), almost certain your mechanic messed it up by himself.
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by TxGR8White View Post
    I put a rockauto dryer in our 840 several months ago. The mounting block is not any different than the OEM one. If the connection is not 100% lined up and parallel to each side, you will strip the threads (on both OEM and aftermarket), almost certain your mechanic messed it up by himself.
    Rock auto sells four different driers. I just bought another different brand from Rock Auto and the block is threaded deeper. Another Chinese import but I think this one will be fine. I am convinced it was defective and yes the mechanic did strip the threads. Now I have another issue. Is there a ground wire connected to the drier? When I took the defective drier out I found a heavy gauge wire with an eyelet terminal hanging down. What does that go to? It looks like a ground.

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