540i overheating

[upbeatgfx]

Recently I installed a new radiator along with an electric fan.

The cars KTEMP was running around 105 around town and 101 on the highway. Until today. While idiling at a mcdonalds it hit 119/120. I shut it right off.

The electric fan is always on VIA a switch and fastened straight to the radiator. It is a 16 inch 2500 CFM fan.


Any ideas?

At this point I just want to get rid of the car as it has 160k miles and needs the chains done. I can't daily this car any longer.

[JimLev]

Need more info........
What's your coolant level at when the engine is stone cold?
Sure you don't have any leaks?
Does you Aux fan work?
If you don't use the AC does it still overheat?

[theWalkinator]

Probably bleeding issue, try bleeding again.

[edjack]

Bleed Cooling System BMW method

On your I6, you need to raise the front end of the car up as high as you can to get the air to the front of the engine.

*********************************

Cooling system bleed procedure (E39)

- with cold car
- top up coolant to proper level (even slightly higher will not hurt at this stage)
- leave rad cap loose

This stage bleeds air trapped in the heater system.
- turn on ignition switch to position 2 (no start)
- set temperature selectors on the climate control to max temp.
- manually set the fan speed to low (lower end of speed range)
- start engine (check that climate settings have not changed)
- after 5-10 seconds of running rev the engine 3-4 times to about 2500 RPM - hold there for about 5 seconds each time.
- shut off engine (should not run for much longer than about 30 seconds - you just want to shut if off before it starts to generate any heat and expand the coolant).
- inspect the coolant level and top up again if necessary.
- tighten the coolant fil cap.

This stage bleeds air from the engine, rad and fill tank.
- now warm up the engine (drive a bit if you wish)
- with engine running CAREFULLY / SLOWLY open the bleed screw. Hold a rag around the area to prevent any excess splashing. Keep the screwdriver in the slot of the bleed screw so you can close it quickly.
- you should have some air/steam escape - progressing to some bubbles of coolant.
- as soon as it progresses to the stage where you are seeing liquid coolant come out then close the bleed screw. Do not over tighten - it is all plastic threads and you can easily turn too far at which point the screw jumps back a thread and you have to re-tighten. Just make it snug with all coolant stopped.
- when the car is cold again re-check the coolant level and top up again if necessary.

NOTE - some of the 6 cyl models have 2 bleed screws - the second one is near the thermostat. In that case you should bleed at both locations (one at a time)

You may have to repeat the bleed procedure 1 or 2 more times over the next week. Can "probably" skip the stage for the cold start bleeding of the heater system.

If the level continues to fall below the correct level then have the system fully pressure tested - explaining to your service manager what you have already done.

It is very important that all leaks be sealed so that the system can operate at full pressure. The engine computer is programmed to keep the coolant temp at about 108C at "most" times (there are exceptions) and the only way it can maintain that temp is if the pressure can be maintained - system fully sealed.

[upbeatgfx]

When its cold its a half inch below the fill line. The car keeps overheating when driving and then when i hit traffic or start city driving. The electric fan is stronger than the oem engine fan i believe. The fan seems to be blowing in the right direction. I bled the system and nothing but coolant comes out the bleeding hole. Very stuck here not sure what i should do. Could it be a thermostat problem? Should I try to put the engine fan back on?


- - - Updated - - -

I Have the m62tu.

[upbeatgfx]

Any other suggestions?

Update:

Bled the whole system again. I started it up and this happened: Is this normal?

Pictures:


When car is on

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1hu...a-1kZ2jj-Rvucj

When ignition is turned off:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=14q...xDx_6wVViEpLEJ

[StRaNgEdAyS]

Have you run the car with the climate control temperature set to max while you were bleeding it?

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk

[geargrinder]

Any other suggestions?

Update:

Bled the whole system again. I started it up and this happened: Is this normal?

Pictures:


When car is on

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1hu...a-1kZ2jj-Rvucj

When ignition is turned off:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=14q...xDx_6wVViEpLEJ

Not enough information. Are you saying...

A. First pic is when cold and second is after it gets hot and is shut down?
or
B. It goes to the full-red-rocket mode as soon as the key is shut off?
or
C. You shut it down, then after some span of time it goes red-rocket...?

Its normal for coolant to expand when hot. So A & C (post-shutdown heat soak mode) are kinda normal.

If your t-stat is stuck closed - or partially closed - or intermittently sticks partially etc. etc. - that easily could display such a symptom. Is the t-stat original? They crap out for sure. You can do the 88C non-MAP one but if you're really just going to dump the car soon you may not want to spend the cost / effort...

I like you mentioned fan direction BTW, there's def cases of e-fans being put in the wrong way causing all kinds of weirdness (typically stays perfectly cool standing still but at low speeds suddenly overheats...)

Radiator Brand? "Sketchy Joe's Discount House of Radiators"? Or dealer part?

[upbeatgfx]

Not enough information. Are you saying...

A. First pic is when cold and second is after it gets hot and is shut down?
or
B. It goes to the full-red-rocket mode as soon as the key is shut off?
or
C. You shut it down, then after some span of time it goes red-rocket...?

Its normal for coolant to expand when hot. So A & C (post-shutdown heat soak mode) are kinda normal.

If your t-stat is stuck closed - or partially closed - or intermittently sticks partially etc. etc. - that easily could display such a symptom. Is the t-stat original? They crap out for sure. You can do the 88C non-MAP one but if you're really just going to dump the car soon you may not want to spend the cost / effort...

I like you mentioned fan direction BTW, there's def cases of e-fans being put in the wrong way causing all kinds of weirdness (typically stays perfectly cool standing still but at low speeds suddenly overheats...)

Radiator Brand? "Sketchy Joe's Discount House of Radiators"? Or dealer part?

Not sure if the thermo is oem, I bought the car with 140k on it, now at 160k

Im going to do valve cover gaskets and chains so ill replace the thermo maybe then?

Do you have a part number for that 88C or a thread?

For the electric fan i run a flex-a-lite it was $100 so not a cheapo.

link: https://www.jegs.com/i/Flex-A-Lite/4...xoC1A8QAvD_BwE

Radiator brand: orileys (I had a warranty.) I want to try an all aluminum radiator but cannot afford $500. I heard you can use the ebay aluminum ones and cut the clips off and use hose clamps.

At this point i need to keep the car and daily it because I dont have enoguh money for a new car (only 18.)

The car ran fine today until I got home off the highway and at city speeds it hit 106C, when i idled in my driveway it overheated at 117C Not sure what the problem can be. It slowly goes up. (not enough airflow?) when the aux fan and my custom electric fan is running i dont feel any air coming out of the grille (fan wrong way?) The temp isnt just shooting up randomly when driving but it creeps slowly when idling after driving.


When running in driveway after driving 3 miles:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Iv...I8-JrT8eWgO8jh

Another instance after driving 3 miles to work:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ab...1hu3Ka6fBQjRta

it cooled down though:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Ub...2LpXYTUhiTbSZW

Ignore the service light LOL!

[upbeatgfx]

car still over heating kinda. while driving on the highway (50 mph and up) coolant temp stays at 101C-105C. When going to a red light it can hit 106-110. After getting home from a drive and pulling into my driveway it hits 117 and wont cool down. Thinking it can be thermostat or the electric fan

[JimLev]

What are you using to turn on your Summit fan? That's a good fan, I'n using the straight blade version.
Is your Aux fan working and when your temp hits 115 or so is it running.
If you want to throw parts at it I'd start with the t-stat.

[upbeatgfx]

What are you using to turn on your Summit fan? That's a good fan, I'n using the straight blade version.
Is your Aux fan working and when your temp hits 115 or so is it running.
If you want to throw parts at it I'd start with the t-stat.

The aux fan runs whenever it wants.

Im looking to do the 88C thermostat conversion, what do you do with the heating wires since there is a dme block off on the 88c?

- - - Updated - - -

My fan is running through a switch, i basically always have it on. I also have a thermo switch that i need to install while i do the thermostat conversion. It will turn the fan on at 185C.

[upbeatgfx]

ordering the 88c thermostat today, any other reasons this can be happening? electric fan not strong enough??

[vinyldude]

I would pressure test the cooling system before buying anything.

[Mach540]

Did you replace the expansion tank when you changed the radiator?

I had an issue like this with an aftermarket exp tank. Put the original back on and no more issues.

A real head scratcher what was actually happening, but one symptom was when I took off the radiator cap on a cold engine, the bobber was down at the proper level, but would then slowly rise all the way up. Musta had some air trapped somewhere that I could not bleed out, no matter what.

Next time I won't cheap out on an unknown exp tank.

[CPHES]

Put the mechanical fan back in. We can’t tell if he has other odd wiring issues, but it occurs in traffic/still. he says 540 / m62, but someone chimed in I6. I have a v8, and a v12 e38, no cheap cooling parts - Nose up - like on ramps, heat on high, high fan, fill it slow, start and bleed.

[upbeatgfx]

didnt replace the expansion tank but the levels keep dropping but no viable leaks in the system.

Did you replace the expansion tank when you changed the radiator?

I had an issue like this with an aftermarket exp tank. Put the original back on and no more issues.

A real head scratcher what was actually happening, but one symptom was when I took off the radiator cap on a cold engine, the bobber was down at the proper level, but would then slowly rise all the way up. Musta had some air trapped somewhere that I could not bleed out, no matter what.

Next time I won't cheap out on an unknown exp tank.

- - - Updated - - -

the fan is always on so i know its running, and its running fast. ill put the fan back in to see what happens. the wiring is right i checked it 3 times just to make sure.

[geargrinder]

I think fans running wrong direction or blades on wrong way.

- - - Updated - - -

Try a puff of talcum powder while only the aftermarket fan is running. See which way it blows.

[upbeatgfx]

Fan is in the correct position, I put a tee shirt in front of the car, blew off the hood. with only my e fan running.

I think fans running wrong direction or blades on wrong way.

- - - Updated - - -

Try a puff of talcum powder while only the aftermarket fan is running. See which way it blows.

[geargrinder]

Fan is in the correct position, I put a tee shirt in front of the car, blew off the hood. with only my e fan running.

What?!? tee shirt in front of the car should be sucked into the grill. Did you put it on so it blows forward?! It needs to suck air from the front and blow it backwards!

[CPHES]

+1 GG is right

[CPHES]

Yes it has to pull air in thru the radiator. That is why not to mess with what the German magicians gave you, if you are a noob.

[juststeve]

I have found that this post to be highly entertaining...
please don't allow it to end so quickly.

What?!? tee shirt in front of the car should be sucked into the grill. Did you put it on so it blows forward?! It needs to suck air from the front and blow it backwards!

[geargrinder]

when the aux fan and my custom electric fan is running i dont feel any air coming out of the grille

Shoulda caught this before. Lol. Air ain’t supposed to come OUT the grille Beavis!

[upbeatgfx]

oh im retarded the wires where going to the power and ground to create a pusher fan not a puller fan.... I dont understand what I was thinking that day. I need to log off for a little to fix this embarrassment.