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Thread: Another LS Swap... 1994 325is 4.8 build!

  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by C10 LS1 1968 View Post
    The really nice thing about the E36 is the front sheet metal and cross member all unbolt. Makes sliding the engine trans in and out a piece of cake. I did a LS swap into a 71 Corvette a couple of years ago. The front clip doesn't come off on Corvettes. It was pretty scary hanging an engine and trans over the newly painted front fender.
    I 100% would hate having to work over the body of any vette. No room in those as it is. Count me out

    Quote Originally Posted by RulyLSX View Post
    Man I would love to see a sequential setup!!! IF not that I would go t-56 magnum!
    I’d love to see it as well, tho I’ve never driven a sequential and not sure of the streetability. I’m accommodating with driveability annoyances because of cool factor, but I want reliability and parts availability too. I guess we’ll see! Listed my bike and some random parts from previous builds and sets of wheels laying around to fund this shit I think I’m going all in on this build. We’ll see how long the 4.8 lasts before I boost it or swap it with something else. I really wanna keep an NA setup but I really want 700 horse easy...


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  2. #27
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    I don't think he meant sequential - that would be like a $15-25k proposition. Pretty sure he meant a dog box - can be picked up for 3-5k used. No one mentions a sequential and a laughable CD009 in the same breath.

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Liquidity View Post
    I don't think he meant sequential - that would be like a $15-25k proposition. Pretty sure he meant a dog box - can be picked up for 3-5k used. No one mentions a sequential and a laughable CD009 in the same breath.
    I’ll just be specific, I’ve been looking at a G-Force GF-5R with the vertical gate shifter. Not sure what that classified as I’m an asshole in a garage not a race car builder.


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  4. #29
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    And now disregard what I just said I just did more homework and sticking with T-56 Magnum as my first choice.


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  5. #30
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    And now they make the "super" magnum. I had a T56 Magnum in my E36. I liked it a lot. I did need to cut a larger hole for the shifter but the stock console worked fine. I did make the shifter hole big enough so I could unbolt the shifter from inside the car. I made a plate to cover the large hole with a smaller round hole for shifter tower.

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by C10 LS1 1968 View Post
    And now they make the "super" magnum. I had a T56 Magnum in my E36. I liked it a lot. I did need to cut a larger hole for the shifter but the stock console worked fine. I did make the shifter hole big enough so I could unbolt the shifter from inside the car. I made a plate to cover the large hole with a smaller round hole for shifter tower.
    Yeah not worried about cutting holes, but did stumble across the fact that a TR6060 is basically a T-56 Magnum from front to back at half the price, so I’ll be looking for a beat up Camaro to take from...


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  7. #32
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    I've seen reference to the TR6060 has a different shifter that may be unsuitable.

    Our T56 Magnum was a very close fit to the OEM hole...very little was required...but does depend on your mounts.

  8. #33
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    I think the TR6060 has a remote shifter mount and the output is some type of flange mount for the drive shaft. Guys over at LS1 Tech would be able to help with those details.

  9. #34
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    Obviously $ is always the concern but if if you can I would say get a t56 magnum, I would rather have a NEW magnum than used TR6060, you don't know what you will get with a used model and it would suck to have it break after some power and you have to pull it again, that or deal with grinding gears etc...

    WIth that being said i don' tknow how well 6060's are used, I am just saying the tranny is not something i would want to buy the best possible.

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by RulyLSX View Post
    Obviously $ is always the concern but if if you can I would say get a t56 magnum, I would rather have a NEW magnum than used TR6060, you don't know what you will get with a used model and it would suck to have it break after some power and you have to pull it again, that or deal with grinding gears etc...

    WIth that being said i don' tknow how well 6060's are used, I am just saying the tranny is not something i would want to buy the best possible.
    Yeah the more I look into it it’s either t56 or cd009 with the Collins adapter but then I have a specific clutch kit and have to relocate the shifter and I’m at the price of the proven t56... there’s really only one option here. T56 it is. Got some more wiring done tonight motors about ready to come back out so I can lay some actual paint in the bay!


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  11. #36
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    I used the LS7 clutch and fly wheel kit. 2002 Fbody slave cylinder. Worked great. Fbody clutch line modded to plug in to the E36 clutch pedal. Tick speed bleeder line.

    I looked at number of used T56's rebuilt and they were within $500 of a new magnum. I bought a new one.

    The other thing to consider is if you really can get enough tire under the E36 to break a T56 Magnum? Not saying you can't.

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by C10 LS1 1968 View Post
    I used the LS7 clutch and fly wheel kit. 2002 Fbody slave cylinder. Worked great. Fbody clutch line modded to plug in to the E36 clutch pedal. Tick speed bleeder line.

    I looked at number of used T56's rebuilt and they were within $500 of a new magnum. I bought a new one.

    The other thing to consider is if you really can get enough tire under the E36 to break a T56 Magnum? Not saying you can't.
    Car is being built to not hook up, so the answer to that last question is no hahaha. I’ll look into that setup sounds legit


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  13. #38
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    ABC Clutch makes an adapter to use a BMW transmission. However it only uses a tilton clutch - 7.25" metallic multi-disc - not really streetable. The kit was $1,400 and $900 for a 3-disc clutch pack and cover so it was a bit spendy - but being able to use a $200 BMW transmission instead of $1,500 T56 does have its perks. But if it's something you plan to drive on the street a lot - I don't recommend it. It sucks. Metallic clutches are on or off, they really don't like slipping, near impossible to get off the line without a ton of drama.

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by C10 LS1 1968 View Post
    I think the TR6060 has a remote shifter mount and the output is some type of flange mount for the drive shaft. Guys over at LS1 Tech would be able to help with those details.
    Jake used a TR6060 in his E36/LS3 swap. His is the build that inspired me. Not being a BMW guy, at the time, I didn't know E36 from E=mc2.

    Below are links to how he fabricated a shifter solution.

    TR6060 Shifter 1

    TR6060 Shifter 2

    TR6060 Shifter 3

    TR6060 Shifter 4

    TR6060 Shifter 5

  15. #40
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    It would have to be a pretty good discount to not to have to deal with the TR6060 shifter issue...compared to a $3200 T56 Magnum with as delivered shifter position like this:



    Then again, I have nearly no fabrication skills so I'm limited in abilities/interest.

    Additionally, I have a car with a 6060 in it OEM...and the shifter is a disappointment. The T56 in the M3 with an 8 inch stick is about the best shifter I've used since I can remember!

  16. #41
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    Yeah that’s beautiful. I would have no issues fabbing that shifter up but if it breaks or something fails... I have to make parts for it. Trying to keep everything fixable by a trip to an auto parts store or an order from a website to keep the downtime to a minimum.


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  17. #42
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    Oops...mistyped: Should have read: "It would have to be a pretty good discount to have to deal with the TR6060 shifter issue"



  18. #43
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    Base coat one, not mad at it!






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  19. #44
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    And done.






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  20. #45
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    base coat looks BOSS!

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by RulyLSX View Post
    base coat looks BOSS!
    Thanks man! I wish I prepped the firewall some more there’s some orange peel going on back there from my poor primer lay down ain’t mad any any of it. Chilly here in CT and back to work tonight for me so giving the paint some time to cure, back at it on the weekend time for final install stuff.


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  22. #47
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    Harness and PCM are in place, everything else is running thru the firewall as needed, will be running the power for everything, tach, MIL, OBD2 etc behind the dash to fuse box or wherever it needs to go. Still need to extend the sensor/injector/coil pack power wires but making some progress at least!




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  23. #48
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    Well it’s been a month, a busy month at work. Managed to get all of my new brake lines run, proportioning valve in place, harness almost completely run, repainted and cleared some of the engine I wasn’t happy with, cleaned up a ton of stuff, sandblasted and painted some suspension parts, and picked up a T-56 today! We’re in the home stretch now. One or two more big orders and hopefully have a runner soon.


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  24. #49
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    Some think an engine swap is just about sticking the long block into the chassis and bolting it up...that ends up being the easiest/quickest part of the deal. In other words, your last post likely took considerable effort!

    All the ancillaries is what takes so long - home stretch now!

    Post more images!

  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Mc View Post
    Some think an engine swap is just about sticking the long block into the chassis and bolting it up...that ends up being the easiest/quickest part of the deal. In other words, your last post likely took considerable effort!

    All the ancillaries is what takes so long - home stretch now!

    Post more images!
    There’s more truth to this than I can actually speak on. I’m taking extra steps all over the place I don’t “need to.” Decided to change the color on the timing cover to match the block, ended up “polishing” all the bolts for it on the wire wheel, and decided I should do the same for the valley cover right after I got done. End results:



    Tremec as mentioned, thinking either Hawks or MGW shifter, if anyone has any experienced input (not “I read on the forums”) recommendations are welcome.



    And modified the factory coolant crossover and slapped some paint on that little fella. I’m not paying $150 for something that does the same thing but has bulky AN fittings on it.






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