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Thread: Doing My 1st Oil Change on BMW

  1. #1
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    Question Doing My 1st Oil Change on BMW

    so this is the first time i will ever be doing an oil change on my car, when i was at the store they sold me/ sold me 10w-30 Valvoline High Mileage oil, they said that it was the best oil at a decent price they had for my car. i have a 2004 525i with just under 120k miles on it, due to not having the car very long im unsure what oil they used the last time they changed it and it is due for a change which is why im planning to do it, i just wanted to make sure that the oil they sold me is ok for the car, it doesnt have to be the best as long as it is ok and wont harm the engine in any way then its ok with me. i dont know if that makes a difference but i live in mid-northern california.

  2. #2
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    Welcome to the forum, Nelson.

    No, that's not the best oil for your car. But no, you won't hurt it by putting that oil in it. If that oil doesn't say "full synthetic", you need to change it again in 3000 miles. A full synthetic is good for 6000 miles.

    Make absolutely sure that you use a top quality oil filter, made by Mahle, Mann, or Hengst. Crap oil filters sold by Autozone and Napa are not good.

    Also, make sure that you change the oil filter BEFORE draining the oil pan, or you will leave a quart of dirty oil in the engine.

    If you change the filter (and o-ring) first, then drain the oil pan (and put a new crushwasher on the bolt), you will need 7 quarts of oil.

    You should always use full synthetic oil.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  3. #3
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    Since your car has a relatively high mileage 10w30 should be ok, but I would still go with 5w30 or 5w40 instead. In any case it should be 100% synthetic and changed together with the oil filter.
    And if I were you I wouldn't look for a decently priced oil but rather for a really good one, because at the end of the day that's what protects your engine and affects the drivability of your car.

    Some nice Castrol Edge 5w40 platinum should do.
    "If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity, nothing else matters." Alan K. Simpson.
    5spd E46 "3XX": 328i engine, 330i Intake and exhaust, CAI, 323i diff.

  4. #4
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    Here is my top rated, pure synthetic, all season oil, that I go-to for all my family's vehicles(BMW or not):
    CASTROL-EUROPEAN FORMULA:https://www.walmart.com/ip/Castrol-E...&wl13=&veh=sem

    Easy to find, and at a great price too!

  5. #5
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    Nelson, you will find that motor oil is like religion on these forums. Everybody has a favorite oil and says all the others are crap. My opinion, since you did ask on the forum, is to do as others here have said and use a full synthetic motor oil. I also recommend you find an oil that is BMW LongLife01 (LL01) certified. The Castrol oil referenced above is LL01 certified. Mobil1 0w-40 European formula was previously LL01 certified but ExxonMobil reformulated the oil and as a result it is not currently LL01 certified.

  6. #6
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    Yup. I'm a Tibetan Buddhist, so my religion doesn't include specific brands of oil, as long as it's really good stuff. All the others aren't really crap, Now, that said, how do you know if they're really good stuff? Well, personally, I'd say that if they say BMW LL-01, they're really good stuff. If they say Mercedes or Porsche or Ferrari approve them, they're good stuff too. And if they're Group 5....like RedLine, they're better than good, they're great.

    Oops, I guess I just declared that my religion has an official oil too, huh? (Sorry, Dalai Lama)

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  7. #7
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    Yes, oil choice is personal,
    and I feel this stems from enthusiasts experiencing positive results,
    during personal use of a specific oil brand/viscosity,
    based on observations from their use in personally owned vehicles/engines.

    And quite frankly, that's all the proof they feel is needed to claim it is the "BEST".
    Enthusiasts grade oil based on their own personal experiences/results,
    which to me verifies the specifications on the oil label.

  8. #8
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    ok thanks, for some reason i didnt feel that the guy was selling me the right oil when i got the 10w-30, i actually thought i had read 5w-30 but ultimatly figured cuz he worked at an auto store he knew better than me. Will running 10w-30 hurt my engine at all? Im not sure where the receipt is but im sure i can take it and exchange it if using what they sold me is going to be harmful then i would definantly take the time to go attempt exchanging it for the right stuff.

  9. #9
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    The bottom line- most any good quality, fresh, new oil is better than old, contaminated oil.
    If you can't find the receipt for return, you'll be fine, just a shorter replacement interval.
    Next time take our recommendations and select only BMW LL-01 rated oil, like the Castrol in my link, LOL!

  10. #10
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    Wix also makes a very good filter, arguably better than the German brands we are taught to genuflect before. NAPA gold is Wix.
    Some "high mileage" oils contain additives intended to swell (ostensibly leaking) oil seals. I'm not a fan of this as I've seen it make things worse.
    Top shelf synthetic oil is what the designers of your engine intended. Pay attention the factory oil viscosity recommendations but ignore the service schedule and change more frequently.
    A rule of thumb I personally use is that any time an engine is down a quart, even if before a scheduled change, the oil gets changed.
    120k is not high miles for your engine, it is barely middle aged.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by MIKYZZ4 View Post
    Yes, oil choice is personal,
    and I feel this stems from enthusiasts experiencing positive results,
    during personal use of a specific oil brand/viscosity,
    based on observations from their use in personally owned vehicles/engines.

    And quite frankly, that's all the proof they feel is needed to claim it is the "BEST".
    Enthusiasts grade oil based on their own personal experiences/results,
    which to me verifies the specifications on the oil label.

    Yep, no tribologists here I know about, all anecdotal.
    Like you said, fresh good quality oil, proper viscosity and all is well.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  11. #11
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    Well, we DO have a tribologist or two here, I'll just let them introduce themselves, if they choose.

    I've opened up two WIX boxes and found filter labelled "Mann". Go figure.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  12. #12
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    [QUOTE=bmwdirtracer;30071151]Well, we DO have a tribologist or two here, I'll just let them introduce themselves, if they choose.

    I've opened up two WIX boxes and found filter labelled "Mann". Go figure.[/QUOTE
    I've not seen a Mann in Wix box but it wouldn't surprise me to see them re-box a low volume (for them) item rather than tool up for it.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  13. #13
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    i dont think i can find receipt but i am still going to go to the store and see if they will let me exchange the oil, if not i will just remember the correct stuff to get and keep a close eye on my oil in between this change and the next. thanks again for all the different views.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwdirtracer View Post
    Yup. I'm a Tibetan Buddhist, so my religion doesn't include specific brands of oil, as long as it's really good stuff. All the others aren't really crap, Now, that said, how do you know if they're really good stuff? Well, personally, I'd say that if they say BMW LL-01, they're really good stuff. If they say Mercedes or Porsche or Ferrari approve them, they're good stuff too. And if they're Group 5....like RedLine, they're better than good, they're great.

    Oops, I guess I just declared that my religion has an official oil too, huh? (Sorry, Dalai Lama)
    And what if they say "European" but not LL-01, is it just for Yugos
    ?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by ross1 View Post
    Wix also makes a very good filter, arguably better than the German brands we are taught to genuflect before. NAPA gold is Wix.
    Some "high mileage" oils contain additives intended to swell (ostensibly leaking) oil seals. I'm not a fan of this as I've seen it make things worse.
    Top shelf synthetic oil is what the designers of your engine intended. Pay attention the factory oil viscosity recommendations but ignore the service schedule and change more frequently.
    A rule of thumb I personally use is that any time an engine is down a quart, even if before a scheduled change, the oil gets changed.
    120k is not high miles for your engine, it is barely middle agedl.
    Change oil when it's down a quart? So, every 1200 miles? Yeah my car leaks a little at the pan... Not enough to go after.

  16. #16
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    Now that BMW says it's okay for their engines to use a quart every 750 miles, I'm not going to recommend changing the oil QUITE that often.

    BMW says it's okay that my S62 uses that much oil.....thankfully, it doesn't use, or leak A DROP, even in full-tilt track use. I try to change the oil every 6000 miles. (That's 10 weeks, for me) RedLine or Lubro-Moly 10-60 in the summer track season, BMW LL-01 spec 5-40 European oils when I forget, and in winter. I've used RedLine, Motul, LubroMoly, and Arteca, all meet LL-01, not that I really care. Excellent full-synthetics....absolutely. (LL-01 I use, because that's what my shop buys and has in big drums...cover your ass, you know?)

    My 2 cents is easy: use excellent oil, and change it a lot.

    If your engine is a turbo, check and adjust the oil level every other fuel fill-up.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwdirtracer View Post
    Now that BMW says it's okay for their engines to use a quart every 750 miles, I'm not going to recommend changing the oil QUITE that often.

    BMW says it's okay that my S62 uses that much oil.....thankfully, it doesn't use, or leak A DROP, even in full-tilt track use. I try to change the oil every 6000 miles. (That's 10 weeks, for me) RedLine or Lubro-Moly 10-60 in the summer track season, BMW LL-01 spec 5-40 European oils when I forget, and in winter. I've used RedLine, Motul, LubroMoly, and Arteca, all meet LL-01, not that I really care. Excellent full-synthetics....absolutely. (LL-01 I use, because that's what my shop buys and has in big drums...cover your ass, you know?)

    My 2 cents is easy: use excellent oil, and change it a lot.

    If your engine is a turbo, check and adjust the oil level every other fuel fill-up.
    Im still using mobil 1 15W50 in my S38s after all these years . . . cant imagine I would need to switch to motul 15W50 simply for bmw certs, your thoughts?

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwdirtracer View Post
    I think that your choice of oils is absolutely fine and wonderful for the magnificent S38.... It's a great, tried and tested and highly respected full synthetic oil....and the car and owner are happy with it. Don't switch.

    As for the Macau Blue gorgeous E34 EURO '89...I have asked Tom for permission to fully cover the work I'm doing, on his thread. He richly deserves the joy of going beyond the painful 4 year waiting. He's a truly great guy....and....wait....my cell just beeped....

    Tom has just given me permission to reawaken his thread, and cover his build.

    Um, to the OP, and the other very fine people on this thread, I apologize....we have digressed very thoroughly, but with only the very best intent, and after thoroughly answering the questions, AND with continued respect to the original question. Thank you for your patience.
    Ill take your advice. Ive started buying oil for a mercedes TD V6 via FCP Euro with that interesting return plan (LOL) but I dont mind buying M1 15W50 in gallons at walmart.

    Saw your post on the macau, that color is beautiful. The blue has reflection and refraction of an oil slick when Ive seen it. Eager to see your work on it.

  19. #19
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    Yep, FCP is off the wall with their lifetime warranty stuff....I have told their CEO this. I recommend them very frequently on this forum, because they show you EXACTLY what you're buying, and where it was made. But WHAT, I'm going to return the several sets of brake rotors I've bought from them....when I know the brake rotors weren't the cause of the problems? SURE, the rotors are unusable...but they aren't the cause.

    Lifetime warranty oil filters and oil? Oh hell no, I am incapable of abusing a good company like that.

    Chris Powell
    Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok?
    Master Auto Tech, owner of German Motors of Aberdeen
    BMWCCA 274412
    German Motors is hiring ! https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...1#post30831471

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by marcva View Post
    Change oil when it's down a quart? So, every 1200 miles? Yeah my car leaks a little at the pan... Not enough to go after.
    A little? I refer to the wife's E39 as the Valdez, it doesn't drip anywhere near a quart in 1200 miles.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

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