Hello friends,
As someone said 9/10 times TRANS FAIL PROG error shows up is due of battery problem.
To my understanding; the DME and/or the AGS fail/s while starting the engine as the voltage drop below a critical voltage.
I was thinking if there's a way to keep the modules with steady 13.8V even while starting the giant V12 engine.
and I came with this:
https://www.powerstream.com/dc2.htm
It's a 12v (9v-14) input to 13.8v output regulator, 20A continuous and 50A peak.
My idea is to connect in-serial the power supply from the battery to the input of the regulator and supply 13.8v via the output directly to the modules.
Should I give it a try?
Please share your thoughts :-)
Greetings,
Tomer
It's an interesting band-aid but it's a band aid that could cause a worse peoglem.
Usually a low voltage at start problem is caused by either a weak battery or a worn out starter.
A worn out starter can pull double the current of a properly function one. Image what that means. If it pulls 300 normally (guess) it would pull 600A when worn out.
Not only does that mean double the internal voltage drop in the battery it means double the voltage drop on the supply cables.
You could easily go from 11 v to 9v on a fully charged brand new battery. Many people replace their battery and alternator before they determine it's actually the starter at fault the whole time
I agree, an electric motor can pull crazy amps toward the end of its life. I once had a blower motor pulling over 20amps.
The car already has load reduction during the start.
Hook up a volt meter and see what the voltage drops to.
Trevor
01 749i sporty, build 12/00 "Sports Barge",S62
92 VW Corrado VR6,AAA
81 Delorean,B28F
81 VW Rabbit Pickup 1.8T,AWW
03 VW Passat wagon 4.0 W8 6spd
What's the best way to diagnose a starter? The engine starts so the starter isn't dead.
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