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Thread: 1998 Z3 not shifting into first gear

  1. #1
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    1998 Z3 not shifting into first gear

    My 1998 Z3 with the 4 cylinder engine sometimes does not shift into first gear when I come to a complete stop. It stays in the upper gear and if I push the "A" button on the console then it will shift into first gear. It's an occasional problem and I'm wondering if anyone else has had this problem and is there a solution. Have you had this problem? any suggestions would be appreciated..

  2. #2
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    Fluid/Filter change would be my first attempt,
    followed by a BMW diagnostic scan for BMW EGS codes(NOT OBD2).

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by tr4guy View Post
    My 1998 Z3 with the 4 cylinder engine sometimes does not shift into first gear when I come to a complete stop. It stays in the upper gear and if I push the "A" button on the console then it will shift into first gear...
    What is the A button for, and where is it on the console? I don't see it in the manual. Could you mean the ASC button?

    Is the transmission warning light in the cluster on? From the manual:
    "If the indicator lamp does not go out, allselector lever positions can still be selected.
    However, the vehicle has limited
    performance in the forward drive positions
    because the transmission utilizes
    only 3rd gear (position 1 or 2) or 4th
    gear (position 3 or "D")."

    Maybe a problem with the transmission control module is affecting the gear selection and the stability control system.
    BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405

  4. #4
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    He has an automatic but didn't state so. The A/M button gives a choice between automatic mode and an early version of the auto-manual steptronic that appeared in the 2001-2002 models.
    Last edited by cngizbleevng; 07-18-2018 at 07:21 PM.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by cngizbleevng View Post
    He has an automatic but didn't state so. The A/M button gives a choice between automatic mode and an early version of the auto-manual steptronic that appeared in the 2001-2002 models.
    I could see that he had a 1998 automatic but could not find the A/M button shown or mentioned in the 1997 Owners Manual that I have. If his problem is affected by pushing the A/M button, it's simpler than my post suggests.
    BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405

  6. #6
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    Correct guys. It is an automatic transmission and the A& M button is to the left of the shift lever and switches the transmission from A automatic and M to shift the transmission manually. Slippery roads can be handled sometimes better manually. Thanks for the thoughts. I think the filter and new fluid is a good idea and first step. I'll post if it has a positive effect.

  7. #7
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    I hope, and will be glad when my suggested first step is successful,
    if not, we will attempt diagnostics.

  8. #8
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    How many miles are on the car ? I had a 99 with auto and never changed the fluid or filter just had the tranny topped off a couple times ( very little added ). I drove it to 197k before I sold it with no problems. If you have high mileage I'd be cautious doing a complete fluid change as it may make matters worse.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by tr4guy View Post
    ... sometimes does not shift into first gear when I come to a complete stop. It stays in the upper gear and if I push the "A" button on the console then it will shift into first gear...
    So, you must have been in "M", for which the manual says:
    "M – Manual program
    This program is for driving conditions
    under which the selected gear is to be
    retained. The transmission then remains
    in this gear both when starting off
    and during acceleration. With this program,
    you drive only in 4th gear when in
    position "D."

    You say your transmission is not coming out of 4th by itself when you stop.
    Did you just get the Z3 recently, and did it used to not do this?
    Maybe it is supposed to do this. The manual says that in A and Drive, it stays in 4th when starting off from a stop.
    And if you don't want this, push the A button.
    Do you have an Owners Manual? If not, I can send you one in PDF format if you PM me with your email.

    Last edited by Vintage42; 07-19-2018 at 10:22 AM.
    BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by z3forlife View Post
    How many miles are on the car ? I had a 99 with auto and never changed the fluid or filter just had the tranny topped off a couple times ( very little added ). I drove it to 197k before I sold it with no problems. If you have high mileage I'd be cautious doing a complete fluid change as it may make matters worse.
    it seems he has already made matters worse by NOT doing a complete fluid/filter change!!!

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by z3forlife View Post
    If you have high mileage I'd be cautious doing a complete fluid change as it may make matters worse.
    I've seen this statement a few times on this forum, but I've never heard an explanation for why it would be so. Any ideas?

  12. #12
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    Myth,
    unless performed on high mileage transmission.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by cngizbleevng View Post
    I've seen this statement a few times on this forum, but I've never heard an explanation for why it would be so. Any ideas?
    Draining the transmission removes and replaces less than half its capacity, but does not disturb anything. A complete fluid change requires a flush that circulates fluid out of the torque converter. Some say the force of the flush stirs up debris that may have settled or been caught in screens, and that some transmissions have more problems after a flush than before. That may be true of flushes using externally powered flushing machines.
    However most flushes these days are done with BG Co. equipment that uses the transmission's own internal pump and transmission cooler lines. The old fluid leaving the transmission is used to push the new fluid into it, with no extra pressure and no cross contamination. It is two chambers in a box connected to the transmission cooler lines, one chamber empty and the other chamber full of new fluid. As the empty chamber fills with old fluid, it pushes the new fluid in the other chamber into the transmission.
    BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405

  14. #14
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    Thanks Vintage42 for the local company plug �� They do make good products. Yes I was referring to replacement on high mileage units. I had a bad experience with a old Buick the only time I've ever had it done. Back to OP issue yes if it was in M mode it won't downshift to 1st on its own. M is manual both ways up/down.

  15. #15
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    Astounding... almost to the point of being hysterical.

    Vintage. You need to sit down with the hydraulic flow charts of a transmission and figure out the flow pattern, and where the cooler fits in the picture. You will find that there is no such thing as "high pressure" and "low pressure" flushing machines. There is an absolutely amazing amount of crap out there pushed by non-technical sales sleaze trying to push flushing machines to shops, and shops pushing unneeded flushes on the poor public.


    Matthew, changing the fluid on a trouble free transmission will do no harm. It won't do any good. Not a bit of good, but won't hurt. If the transmission is failing, changing the fluid will not fix it, and may well kill it. The line about the new fluid (fresh detergents) washing the debris loose and gumming up the filters is partially true. The point is, there should be no debris. If there is, the transmission has already failed and is just waiting for a proper time to leave you stranded. Therefore, changing the fluid as a first diagnostic step, popular as it is, is the dumbest thing possible.

    As far as the OP's problem. It needs to be diagnosed by someone that has the correct scanner and KNOWS HOW TO USE IT. His problem could be as simple as a failing range sensor or mismatched front tires. But every time he is told this, he clams up and then starts a new thread on the subject. What. four, maybe five times now.


    /.randy

  16. #16
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    Point taken randy,
    but from my observations, It is more of a crapshoot,
    as I have observed a simple fluid change improve transmission functionality,
    roughly 50% of the times attempted, which accounts for the popularity of use,
    as a first step in diagnostic procedures. Your results may vary.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by rf900rkw View Post
    Astounding... almost to the point of being hysterical. Vintage. You need to sit down with the hydraulic flow charts of a transmission and figure out the flow pattern, and where the cooler fits in the picture. You will find that there is no such thing as "high pressure" and "low pressure" flushing machines...
    I did sit down (at the computer) and examine BG's flow, years ago, when considering a flush for my Forester. I described how it worked in Post #13. It is better described here:

    "... flush machine connects into the transmission cooler lines. BG makes this kind and here is how it works. The line going from the transmission to the transmission cooler is disconnected and connected to the machine line in. The line out from the machine carrying new fluid is connected to the line going to the cooler. There is a chamber on the machine that has a diaphragm in it. The top part of the chamber above the diaphragm is filed with new fluid. The engine is started which turns the torque converter and the input shaft on the transmission. The input shaft turns the transmission pump and it makes hydraulic pressure. This causes fluid to flow through the cooler line. As fluid leaves the cooler line it enters the chamber on the flush machine. As the old fluid side of the diaphragm fills it pushes the diaphragm up and forces new fresh fluid into the transmission. After a while the old fluid is collected in the machine and it is replaced by new fluid. Now the transmission has been flushed. Really pretty simple. As you can see the machine cause no pressure and all fluid transfer is done by the transmission’s own pump."
    http://www.gadgetonline.com/TransFlush.htm

    It was my understanding that at one time, flushing the transmission with pressure from externally-powered machines was detrimental, and that the BG machine solved the problem. Perhaps you are saying that the BG method has always been the only method, and there never was any pressure flushing to cause problems.

    I do not mean to be hysterical, and only try to provide good information.
    Last edited by Vintage42; 07-20-2018 at 12:51 PM.
    BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405

  18. #18
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    As I said, there is a lot of crap out there. And BG, at least my local salesman, is a main purveyor of it. He would have you believe their magical machine hoses down the insides of the transmission like a little man with a pressurewasher, and can backflush the filter, eliminating the need to drop the pan.

    Anyway, I said to look at the hydraulic diagram for the transmission, not the two hose connection for the machine. What path does the oil take getting to the cooler? What pressures? What flow rate? Leaving the cooler going back to the trans, where does it go? Anything that would cause pressure? what limits flow? Any pressure regulation? When you get your head wrapped around this in detail, you will understand how the machines work and the pitfalls.


    Screw it, I'll give you the answers. On this transmission, a GM 4L30, the cooler feed is waste from the torque converter. The converter is pressure limited to 80 psi. The return oil becomes lube oil. It is not just dumped into the pan. It goes into small galleys that pressure feed the bearings and gears. There is a lube feed safety valve that is set to 50psi.


    /.randy

  19. #19
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    The BG diaphragm tank does replace all the old fluid with new, doesn't it? That is all people want from a flush.
    BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405

  20. #20
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    I can agree with randy concerning flushing,
    as just a money making procedure attempting to replicate,
    a proper fluid/filter change.

    This does not replace a proper change,
    consisting of dropping the pan,
    draining fluid along with contaminants,
    allowing easy inspection of condition and particulates,
    along with removing and replacing old filter with new.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by MIKYZZ4 View Post
    ... a proper change, consisting of dropping the pan, draining fluid... along with removing and replacing old filter with new.
    Does dropping the pan change more fluid than draining the pan? Does it release the fluid in the torque converter, which can be over half the total? Is there a replaceable filter inside?
    Are you sure that there is anything wrong with simple replacement of all the fluid with the BG diaphragm tank, if if all you want to do is change the fluid?
    Last edited by Vintage42; 07-20-2018 at 04:39 PM.
    BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405

  22. #22
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    You must drop the pan to replace the filter,
    why would you replace with new clean fluid,
    to be filtered by a possibly filthy clogged filter?

  23. #23
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    I have approximately 82,00 miles....not high.

  24. #24
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    Definitely too high for a first time fluid/filter change on a 20yrs old-82,000mi transmission!

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by MIKYZZ4 View Post
    You must drop the pan to replace the filter...
    Is there a replaceable filter? Or a permanent screen?
    BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405

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