20/50 is the generalized rule, Curb Idle Speed should be 800-900, car running bad when O2 sensor is connected you have a problem in closed loop operation. Is your timing set at 25 deg BTDC at 2200 rpms ?
What is the Voltage range of your O2 sensor using wide band ? With one wire O2 sensor I know its 0 to 1 Volt and goal at .45V. What is Ve of the O2 sensor when fully warmed up at idle ?
stoichiometric 14.7 to 1 parts- air/fuel ratio is 100 % burning of gasoline, it cant go higher than 100% if it does there is an error in the measurements.
Randy
Last edited by 320iAman; 08-16-2018 at 11:39 AM.
Not sure what you mean by 20/50.
I went and drove the car then sat in the sun letting it idle till my temp gauge was dead center.
In park its at about 1100rpm.
It reads 13.6 to 13.8 AFR on the wideband. The narrow band voltage is .79 to .80 volts.
If i put it in drive with the ebrake engaged it drops the rpm to about 800.
The wideband reads 14.6 to 14.8 AFR. The narrow band voltage is .77 to .45 roughly as is swings back and forth quickly staying more toward the .7 voltage side of the swing.
I plugged the narrow band back in to see what i would do.
Same as before it swings from low 14 to high 15 AFR rapidly. You can hear the motor go up and down with the swing.
I will have to check the Timing pretty sure its what you listed but i set it back several months ago. Wouldn't hurt to check.
I will try and get the idle speed a bit lower as well.
Last edited by osburn383; 08-16-2018 at 02:30 PM.
Cold control pressure 20 psi / Warm Control pressure 50 psi, High idles--vacuum leaks, O2 sensor-not good- so long as O2 sensor swings in Voltage high to low-low to high its working, when it gets stuck at a reading its spent. Motor idle seeking like your saying is normal.
Randy
Last edited by 320iAman; 08-17-2018 at 10:48 AM.
WUR cold 31psi at 90F°
WUR warm is 49psi.
Couldn't check the timing. When using my timing light it starts breaking up past 1k rpm.
The car runs decent...
Just wish it would idle smoother.
Even put a new o2 sensor in but is the same.
I set the voltage of the new sensor to .6 volts.
It just swings up and down on idle more than i would like. Plus randomly it will have what feels like a miss stumble at idle.
Also i did notice i can get some of the up down fluctuation to go away by turning the idle mixture 3/4 quarter a turn richer.
This stops the AFR swings and it idles at 14.5 plus or minus 0.2 AFR. Plus no stumble miss.
Without the o2 plugged in its smoother and no miss. Only stumble it has is if its in drive and stopped the AFR goes too lean causing a stumble.
The hot start still isn't very good.
If i unplug the thermo switch it starts great.
Starts great cold.
I usually just tap the throttle pedal a couple of times when starting hot and starts right up.
Last edited by osburn383; 08-27-2018 at 02:38 PM.
The timing jumping around can be a sign of needing to oil the distributor shaft among other things unless I'm mistaken
-John
Maybe. I will need to test it with another timing light.
I went through the distributor a year ago and cleaned and oiled it.
It's not like the car feels like it has ignition break up.
It seems to drive fine cruising and down shifting full throttle.
Just the timing light starts freaking out not giving a clean steady flashing light.
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