Hello, I currently bought a e39 540i 6 months ago... I have had 2 radiators within the 6 months that I have owned the car.
The first radiator was an OEM behr and the second was an o'riley's radiator (murray)
The question is: Should I use my warranty and replace the oriley's one or try an all aluminum ebay radiator?
I am sick of the plastic parts blowing up. Although, I believe the second radiator blew up within one of the cores.
Link:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ALUMINUM-RA...itleDesc=0%7C0
Thanks for reading this!
Use your warranty if they won't refund your money.
That all aluminum on on eBay may be better, but the price is pretty low. Hope the quality isn't low.
Machine welded probably straight out of china. Machine welds cant be too bad although, Chinese products can.
Question: Did I get a faulty radiator or is the orileys version junk? Can there be something wrong with my engine or thermostat? Possibly even motor mounts or radiator mounts?
Last edited by upbeatgfx; 07-17-2018 at 01:30 AM.
I don't know if Jim would agree with my assessment,
but due to the frequency of radiator failure, specifically the plastic components,
I would have to recommend a cylinder leakdown test.
The most likely culprit in my mind is that excessive combustion gases,
are infiltrating the cooling system, thereby increasing system pressure,
leading to plastic component failure.
Mikyzz4, that is a good possibility.
Upbeat didn't mention if he as loosing any coolant and having to add some.
It would be good to look at the KTMP to make sure the t-stat is controlling the temp properly too.
Hope the expansion tank wasn't filled to the top. I run mine about 1" lower than recommended to give more room for expansion.
One issue I found on mine was the upper radiator hose being too short. With the torque of the V8 pulling against it, it does stress the upper neck and left side tank more.
Not sure if that can be the problem, the first radiator cracked at the upper radiator hose neck. the second one looks like it blew up in the core because coolant is filled in the small holes. Ill have to pull the radiator tomorrow and see the problem. Although I do have a check engine light on, not sure if its just a vacuum leak or a different code. Ill check that tomorrow too. Hopefully the cylinders are fine, If not ill probably get rid of the car because of that and the timing chains that i have to do. How much does a leak down test cost?
The check engine light is probably the after market gas cap throwing a code.
- - - Updated - - -
is the KTMP the displayed temperature thought the instrument cluster at the bottom ( where my pixels are dead?) :LOL:
Last edited by upbeatgfx; 07-17-2018 at 10:17 PM.
Are you sure that you didn't overfill the expansion tank? Just get the O'Reilly replacement and leave plenty of airspace in the expansion tank so you can eliminate that variable.
Don't rule out the possibility somebody dropped that first radiator or smashed the box it was in, and pre-stressed the inlet neck.
You've said that a couple times but I'm not sure what you mean. You mean its leaking from the core/center of radiator? That's unusual and would normally be a real sign of manufacturing flaw, or, somebody dinging the core with a tool or something else during install. It should be nearly impossible to make the core leak without physically damaging it - unless its a total POS.
+eleventy although its now been said multiple times already.
My reaction would be to get a replacement warranty on the BEHR rad that you had originally instead of another cheapo generic.
I'd love it if that $130 radiator was a sneaky great deal but one warning sign comes from it having barbed fittings, not snap, yet they list it as compatible with all the later cars with no asterix or anything (yes yes you can take the snap fittings off a later hose and make it work but that's not usually what people expect when compatibility is listed without a note..). "We don't accept return verify before purchasing" is another warning sign.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
Yep, sa that that eBay special has no snap fittings, what? Cut the snap ends off your existing hoses? Don’t know about that. I have seen E39 hoses for sale with just the rubber hoses with no ends, you’d have to go that route I guess.
Set the controls for the heart of the sun
Well, actually the radiator does have snap fittings. I messaged the ebay seller and they said they updated the design of the radiator months ago and added the snap fittings. He even sent me pictures.
s-l1600.jpg
Don't note the Chinese phone provider from the seller LMAO!
Question: how much lower does the "red rocket" need to be than the suggested fill line?
The radiator looked to blow up from bad manufacturing maybe from a BAD weld.
Last edited by JimLev; 07-18-2018 at 11:38 PM. Reason: Watch the profanity
Tried to reply with information but I guess a moderator has to accept it first to show pictures.
Upper radiator hose mount failure is often associated with bad motor mounts allowing engine movement and stress cracking the hose connection to the radiator. Check your motor and transmission mounts.
Like others, I suspect other issues, the failing radiators is a sympton of something else likely going on.
2001 540 M-Sport (cdn), ST X (KW) coilovers, H&R 15mm spacers, Eibach anti roll bars (28mm/18mm), Beastpower rear antiroll bar brackets, M5 rear chassis reinforcements (traction rods), Strong Strut front upper strut bar, Dinan Stage 1 software, factory M-Audio subs, Bavsound speaker upgrade, Bluebus bluetooth integration, Stop Tech SS brake lines, ATE coated brake rotors, ATE ceramic brake pads.
Not sure why I couldnt Post a reply but, the radiator does come with the snap fittings. At least the eBay seller told me they updated the design.
The orileys radiator was junk, the inner welds where junk and cracked I believe. The plastic looked to be fine.
How much lower should the “red rocket” be in the expansion tank then factory specifications.
As far as motor mounts I’m going to replace them because they are only $60 and they are probably factory. I’ve heard of that before in other cars.
Last edited by upbeatgfx; 07-18-2018 at 09:32 PM.
Screw the damn O'Reilly radiator next time,
pick from only quality options here:https://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/54...002&m=20&e=188
Lucky spot, and lifetime warranty?,
DAMN!!
Seriously, much better quality than your previous replacements.
Great point. I’d forgotten about that poss.
You can go M5 for motor mounts - but beefier and stiffer.
Re: chino-seller - yeah... ok. They totally change the design but don’t bother to use the right pix? Says something about attention to detail. Again - hell maybe it’s a great deal... try it and let us know... I’m all for great bargain deal - just be pessimistic and then be surprised if it fulfills the promises...
Oh and yeah Stevie - the snap connector hard plastic ends are actually barbed under the crimp, so if you take the end off it’s ready to accept a barbed tube. That said of course it ends up slightly shorter by the length of the connector, but it could be used in a pinch in most locations. Or used in an hybrid-adaptation scenario. Next time you have a discard you can chop it apart and see for yourself...
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
Yep, of course it would make the hose that much shorter, I’ve always wondered why some places did sell E39 hoses without the plastic couplers. Funny thing about this thread and the other one lurking around here, I just had to swap the radiator out of my 528 for a lucky find from a junkyard, a new Mishimoto alloy radiator a couple of weeks ago, then my 540’s radiator popped a squirt last week, got the new Hella radiator from FCP, but been real busy at work, just have not had the energy to do it after hours, so..... I tried something I would not recommend.... I scuffed up the section around the leak, scuffed it with 320, then ran crisscrossed blade cuts, threaten the surface with 3M adhesive promoter, did the same to a rectangular piece of ABS, hit it with a nice slathering of 3M Rigid Epoxy, and splatted the piece of ABS over the epoxy, zero leaks, with speeds up to 135mph in 98 degree heat the other day, stupid radiator got a run on some new life. I don’t care if I blow the motor, that gives me a reason to go M5er... lol.
- - - Updated - - -
But.... I will swap it out this weekend with the new South Afrokan abehr Hella radiator. OH WHAT FUN IT IS....Be’emdubbalyou.... no wait, that was Toyota.
Set the controls for the heart of the sun
All it needs to do is to survive tomorrow's commute, it gets swapped out on Saturday. My Brother borrowed my wagon and has it in that crummy state of NudeJoisey, which is why I am driving the 5Farty to work. in this condition. Still not a drop!!!
- - - Updated - - -
Did it blow up everywhere? Or did your epoxy fix blow off the radiator?
Set the controls for the heart of the sun
Bookmarks