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Thread: Clicking in front suspension

  1. #1
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    Clicking in front suspension

    My front end of my 01 540i had made a clunking noise ever since I got it, but recently the steering wheel would turn when going over bumps and the noise has now become a click. I’m pretty sure it’s coming from the deiver’s side but when I took the wheels off to change my pads I didn’t see anything off. Any suggestions? I want to only fix what’s wrong and not buy a whole kit like I did for my. Rear suspension

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by fedisrico View Post
    My front end of my 01 540i had made a clunking noise ever since I got it, but recently the steering wheel would turn when going over bumps and the noise has now become a click. I’m pretty sure it’s coming from the deiver’s side but when I took the wheels off to change my pads I didn’t see anything off. Any suggestions? I want to only fix what’s wrong and not buy a whole kit like I did for my. Rear suspension
    The clunk is probably the sway bar end links. Not sure about the clicking sound

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    2013 Ford F-150 FX4 Ecoboost
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    1994 318i/5 (Up for sale Soon)

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by mebjr12 View Post
    The clunk is probably the sway bar end links. Not sure about the clicking sound

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    Thanks, this might be it as I did notice a lot more body roll and loose steering too. This is the part right?

    https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...9-31351095664l

    I orerdered 2, it didn’t say they were side specific...
    Last edited by fedisrico; 07-15-2018 at 06:29 PM.

  4. #4
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    You won't know for sure what is actually needed to be replaced,
    until you, or someone knowledgeable concerning BMW suspensions,
    actually get it up on a lift or floorjack & jackstands,
    and perform a thorough inspection.
    Last edited by MIKYZZ4; 07-15-2018 at 06:48 PM.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by fedisrico View Post
    Thanks, this might be it as I did notice a lot more body roll and loose steering too. This is the part right?

    https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...9-31351095664l

    I orerdered 2, it didn’t say they were side specific...
    My wife's Ford Flex started making a clunking noise a few months ago. Changed out the sway bar links and it solved the problem.

    While MIKYZZ4 has a great point, hopefully this will cure your problem. If not, at least you didn't spend a lot of money.
    2000 528i sport
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  6. #6
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    Whatever happened to getting under the car and checking and wiggling the part before you guys go sending him to order the swaybar links??? What if that wasn’t it..... ?
    Fredisreeco, get the wheels off the ground, using a small pry bar, see if you can get stuff to wiggle. As a matter of fact, wiggle the wheels both at three and nine o clock, side to side, if there is play, see where it is coming from, the 12 and 6 o clock position will show play if your bearings are bad. Wedge the prybar under the joints, without ripping the rubber dust shields, see if you can get the ball joints to move up and down. Same with the torsion arm links, those are what these guys are suggesting is bad. Clunking can also come from bad upper strut bearings. Check your tie rod end links, the ball joint on the pitman arm, the steering arm, check it all. Check the bushings on the torsion bars too. There are only so many joints to check, it’s stupid to go ordering parts willynilly just because guys on the forum claim that that was what it was on their wife’s Yugo. Two weeks ago. You gotta learn how to check all this crap before running to the forums for God’s sakes, you start threads left and right, how do you get a sense of accomplishment if all you do is start a thread when a bulb goes out??? Haven’t you ever figured out how to figure things out.... on your own???
    Last edited by BimmrMeUpSnotty; 07-15-2018 at 07:17 PM.
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  7. #7
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    Big thanks to mebjr12, there’s still the same clunk, but now the steering wheel doesn’t move over bumps and the steering is a bit tighter.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by MIKYZZ4 View Post
    You won't know for sure what is actually needed to be replaced,
    until you, or someone knowledgeable concerning BMW suspensions,
    actually get it up on a lift or floorjack & jackstands,
    and perform a thorough inspection.
    It's time for THIS!

  9. #9
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    Ok I get the fact we are discussing a 17 year old suspension system on a E39 540 application and the poster is asking for "what is causing my noise?". The answer to this ever frequent posting is the following:
    - Has a BMW experienced tech, DIYER, ever looked at this car before in came in to your ownership?
    - life expectancy on E39 suspensions range from 80k to 150 K depending on driver and road conditions.
    - Everything is worn on the suspension. Replace part A always exposes slop in everything attached to it.
    - Solution to ownership of high end cars with delayed maintenance to the next owner are Parts and labor.
    Can you as a owner replace one part at a time to keep cost down? You bet. Is it smart? No just cheap. Many of the parts will require alignment after replacement, so doing everything will be cheaper in the long run.

    A visit to the FCPEuro.com website will allow you to see what the costs are for a complete suspension overhaul parts. cost.$1200 with YOUR labor. Most shops will charge $800-1200 to install. Add shocks and stunts to the list too.
    Note: E39 are very sensitive to out of balance/loose suspension parts that will drive you nuts until everything has been refreshed.

    Now to answer your post, the little suspension arms with BIG bushing ON THIER ENDS, are more than likely worn out and allowing movement within the eye banging away on metal to metal. You can actually see the movement under braking or with a large pry bar. Any competent shop can spot it for you if you have limited DIY skills, tools, and knowledge. All of which you are going to need during your ownership unless you plan on high pains in the wallet.
    there are multiple postings on this process posted above.

    There are hundreds of posts going back YEARS that have all the short cut efforts that provided pain and crying on the attempts until resolution. So with that in mind a few questions. How many miles? Driven hard or garage queen? Any unusual tire wear?


    We are here to help anytime.
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  10. #10
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    I am gonna get under there and investigate more, but I already know that everything will be worn considering the age of the car, I’m sure you guys can help me narrow down the annoying clunk/click.

    Some other symptoms are the car wobbling while I’m going slow on a very smooth road, and when I wiggle around in my seat the whole car moves left and right, also a groan in the suspension when the car switches into reverse. I already have all new components for the rear suspension, and I already know all 4 shocks are crap as there’s a loud hiss over bumps and the car has so much play when I push down on it.

    So any guesses as to what the noise could be? I will check everything but everything will be worn, so I want to know what to really look into or any special tests to do to narrow down my search

    Thanks, and no whining about me not checking myself bc I will and have multiple times, just trying to get help from people with experience

  11. #11
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    All you need is a large pry bar to see the movement and a flashlight to look into the rubber bushing large end to see the torn rubber. #1 cause of clunking over bumps and will create a "shimmy" under braking and at speeds at 45 MPH.
    The wobbling you feeling can be cause by multiple parts failing creating play in the steering and suspension parts. The big image above is a 60-100K life span. Heavy footed drivers see a 40K life span along with rear tires lasting 15-20K.
    Last edited by StephenVA; 07-23-2018 at 04:44 PM.
    Current Garage Highlights
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  12. #12
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    I do feel like it might be the lower control arm, but nothing looked torn when I checked, I’ll try The pry bar

  13. #13
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    From your description I would say that you require a total system refresh,
    not a piecemeal approach, so a total kit would be best. Let's start with the front kit options:

    1.BMW=https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...40e3922pieceoe
    2.LEMFORDER=https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...40e3922piece-l
    3.MEYLE=https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...0e3922piece-my

  14. #14
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    I know that’d be best, but the first kit is what I paid for the car and I’m not going to keep it for years, I’m okay with some worn suspension parts, I just don’t want the clunk, most likely going to buy the lower control arm for the drivers side and just install it myself, anyone see anything wrong or have anything to add to this diy? Seems good to me

    https://youtu.be/e4MyOSZ2bYI

  15. #15
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    At least buy the left and right side.....
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