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Thread: FS Ignition wires for M70 and M73 engine

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Japan
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    44,959
    My Cars
    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3

    FS Ignition wires for M70 and M73 engine

    My latest addition. Made on special order and available now. Presently have them in black and a limited number in blue colour available. No cheap cable 'rubber' and plug 'rubber', ignition cable isolation silicone/EPDM material and copper core. Heat resistance: -40 degree C. to + 220 degree C. So much softer than the OEM ones.
    Why should you replace your original wires? Here is a few reasons: new spark plug wires provide better conductivity and more spark. Better conductivity and more spark means improved throttle response. Good plug wires are absolutely essential for reliable ignition performance and trouble-free operation. A bad spark plug plug wire may create so much resistance that the voltage never reaches the plug, or a break in the insulation may allow the spark to arc to ground. Either way, a bad plug wire will cause a spark plug to misfire. Bad spark plug plug wires can cause hard starting (particularly during wet weather), poor fuel economy, rough idle, hesitation when accelerating and increased hydrocarbon (HC) emissions. Spark plug wires should always be inspected if any of these symptoms are present, and when the spark plugs are changed. If wires show any obvious damage such as burned or cracked insulation, chaffing, loose plug boots or terminals, the wires should be replaced. Also, if visible arcing is present new wires are needed. Wires should also be replaced if their resistance measured end to end with an ohmmeter exceeds OEM specifications.

    Here the blue ones http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=...EeToh4l5k2TGxc
    Without the 2 donuts/speed sensors (can be used from the old set or separate buy/supply new ones) and without the funnel/bracket (use the old funnel/bracket installed in the car). No marten repeller included too.
    To add the donuts, see here the instructions http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=...c#.V7Gpu-8kqUk

    Update 2018-07-18
    All blue ignition wires sold.
    Black ones on stock. Price per set of black ignition wires consisting of 12 ignition wires between distributors and spark plugs + 2 wires between ignition coils and distributors = total 14 wires US$ 190 shipped by airparcel from Japan.
    NEW: limited number of RED ignition cable sets consisting of 12 wires between distributors and spark plugs + 2 wires between ignition coils and distributors = total 14 wires US$ 210/set shipped by airparcel from Japan (spec same as the black wires, just the cable colour is different) , picture http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=...c#.W081ae8UmUk
    Paypal o.k. Please contact me by PM with shipping address. Make sure your old plastic ignition wire tubes are not brittle.

    M30/M70 ignition system data accdg to Bentley
    Coil primary, coil code # 2051118335 terminals 1 (-) and 15 (+) resistance 0.50 ohm
    Coil primary, coil code # 20510171101 terminals 1 (-) and 15 (+) resistance 0.37 ohm
    Coil secondary, coil code # 2051118335 terminals 15 (+) and 4 (ctr. resistance 6.0 kohm
    Coil secondary, coil code # 20510171101 terminals 15 (+) and 4 (ctr. resistance 9.0 kohm
    spark plug ends 5.0+/- 10% kohm
    shielded plugs 1.0 +/- 20% kohm
    spark plug wires 0 ohm (approx.)
    rotor 1.1 +/- 10% kohm

    M70 firing order: 1-7-5-11-3-9-6-12-2-8-4-10
    crankshaft position/rpm sensor:
    540+/- 10% ohm

    from workshop manual
    distributor rotor 1+/-20% kohm
    angled/shielded connectors 1+/- 20% kohm
    spark plug connectors 5+/- 20% kohm
    cylinder identification sender coil resistance at 20 degree C (68F) <1 ohm
    pulse sender/crankshaft position sensor coil resistance 540 +/- 10% ohm
    temperature switch for e-box cooling E32 750: switch on at 44 +/- 3 degree C, switch off at 36 +/- 3 degree C.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by shogun; 07-18-2018 at 09:05 PM.
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    raleigh nc
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    53
    My Cars
    1991 e32 750il
    Thanks for all your help shogun! I wasn't sure when the wires got here how they came apart. He went out of his way to send me some pictures of everything taken apart! Great set of wires, Great customer service, Excellent guy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Everyone needs a set of these for there 750!

    Thanks,

    Ryan

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Norway
    Posts
    5
    My Cars
    2010 Opel Zafira 1.9CDTi
    Thanks Shogun!

    The original ignition wires are now 24 years old and very ready for replacement.
    I'll probably order more of your goodies later. Just have to get the beast running again first.


    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    @trolav
    1 set M70 ignition wires in black will be sent to ┼krehamn in Norway. Thanks
    Still have more black sets and 2 blue sets on stock.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Japan
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    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    just to make it easier what woodscrew means I cut off a new wire and plug which is normally installed between ignition coil and the distributor, here the pics for better understanding
    http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=...8x9oh4l5k2TGxc http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=...dV8oh4l5k2TGxc
    http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=...EygYh4l5k2TGxc http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=...EiHoh4l5k2TGxc
    http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=...2BaYh4l5k2TGxc http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=...%2Foh4l5k2TGxc

    and this is OEM Beru to compare http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=...VKa4h4l5k2TGxc http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=...eTQoh4l5k2TGxc
    by set I mean for all 12 cylinders the ignition wires + 2 between ignition coils and distributors. Not only for one side as they are sold usually, that means for cylinder row 1-6 and another set for 7-12.

    info for Wizard: this is the procedure how to replace the old donuts, that means from old ignition wires transfer them to my new ignition wires with woodscrew connections http://produkte.bilder-speicher.de/0...-donut-on.html
    blue set looks like this http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=...EeToh4l5k2TGxc http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/767718

    cable - double layer of silicon with braid conductor,single copper wires 1mm ,tin plating silicon terminals with suppressor resistor (used boots and terminals are identical to the original) may be applied to vehicles equipped with LPG installation,will fit on the BMW tube
    outer diameter of the black cable version is (roughly) 6.90 mm =0.271 in
    I also have single cables with boots available, as I decided to sell one set part by part to help out some people here which just need one wire with boots. That are (at the moment, subject to prior sale) all wires with boots from cylinder 1 to 12, plus the wires with boots between ignition coils and distributor caps center. In case you need a single one, tell me by PM the number of the cylinder and also the length of the wire including the boots in Centimeters to avoid misunderstandings. Just for info the approx. length by cable/cylinder taken from internet info from end to end incl. the boot on each side: the ones which go between ignition coil + distributor 54 cm/21.3", others 44cm/17,3", 51cm/20", 60cm/23,6", 70cm/27,5", 77cm/30", 85cm/33".

    Important Note: Never pull on the ignition wire when you want to remove the boot from spark plug. Always pull, twist and wiggle on the boot. Or use a spark plug plier boot removal tool, there are special tools that perform well in difficult areas such as recessed and obstructed plugs. If you pull on the wire you might find a metal collar is left on the end of the spark plug – this is not a problem. This type of ignition boot uses a friction fit metal collar that is designed to separate from the boot if it gets stuck on the spark plug. The simplest solution is to remove the spark plug, remove the collar, and reinstall the collar into the plug. You can also try to remove the collar with the spark plug in place using long nose pliers but make sure you don't drop it; use a magnet, if required. Clean the inside of the collar and push it (small hole in first) down into the boot until it seats on the end of the wire.
    The arrangement is shown here; the rubber of the boot was cut away to show the parts better. The rubber can be moved back up the wire but some lubricant might be needed.
    http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=...c#.WfQWy-8UmUk
    http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=...c#.WfQW7O8UmUk
    http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=...c#.WfQXDe8UmUk
    http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=...c#.WfQXMe8UmUk
    Last edited by shogun; 02-25-2019 at 08:49 PM.
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Calgary, Canada
    Posts
    909
    My Cars
    '91 E31 850i,'05 E53 4.4
    Thanks Shogun
    I swear, my cars are like a girlfriend.
    Sometimes its a rough ride, sometimes its smooth motorin'.
    Sometimes she doesnt like how i treat her and sometimes i dont like how she behaves.
    BUT at the end of the day, she loves it when I am inside her.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Orange Park FL
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    743
    My Cars
    92 750iL 88 M6
    Thank you Shogun!! A set of new pretty blue plug wires just showed up =). So got new wires, new CI sensors and new plugs, just waiting on the new distributor caps and rotors to be delivered.
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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Calgary, Canada
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    909
    My Cars
    '91 E31 850i,'05 E53 4.4
    Hi all. Has anyone measured the resistance for their wires AFTER they have installed the CID sensors?
    These are the values I got if you'd like to compare

    Side one:
    1) 5.62ohm (shortest wire)
    2) 5.82ohm
    3) 5.95ohm
    4) 5.97ohm
    5) 6.13ohm
    6) 5.78ohm (longest wire)
    Ignition wire) 2.05ohm

    Side two:
    1) 6.13ohm (shortest wire)
    2) 5.82ohm
    3) 5.73ohm
    4) 5.75ohm
    5) 6.10ohm
    6) 5.91ohm (longest wire)
    Ignition wire) 2.04ohm

    Do you know if these numbers prove good connectivity between ends?
    I was more curious about the 6.13ohm on the #1 wire on set two. I was playing with removing the wires from their wood screw connectors and heard a bunch of "crunching" as I kept twisting wires. I am worried I may have broke many wires inside the silicone sheath.
    I swear, my cars are like a girlfriend.
    Sometimes its a rough ride, sometimes its smooth motorin'.
    Sometimes she doesnt like how i treat her and sometimes i dont like how she behaves.
    BUT at the end of the day, she loves it when I am inside her.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Japan
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    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    Bentley manual mentions as reference: spark plug ends 5.0 +/- 10% kOhm, shielded plugs 1.0 +/- 20% kOhm, spark plug wires 0 Ohm approx. , so based on this all is o.k. within tolerances.
    The angled boots between the ignition coil and distributor center are each 1 kOhm, so 2 kOhm in total.
    DV8OR also just installed the wires in blue, maybe he also has measured them?

    Importance of functioning donuts, cyl. identification sensors M70
    I just read in the German forum about a case where someone changed on his M70 distributors, rotors, spark plugs and ignition wires on cyl. 6 and 12 and used the re-old donuts. Then he had trouble. Engine starts, runs short time with increased RPM and then dies. EML lamp goes on with ignition on and then goes out again as it should be. Diagnosis faults: fault ignition cylinder 1-6 and 7-12. That was 2 weeks ago. Today he fixed it. He noticed that he installed the cylinder identification sensors/donuts/pulse generators on ignition wires cyl. 6 and 12 the wrong way. Turned the donuts the correct way and engine runs starts and smooth.
    Apparently there no direction marks on the original ones, if I remember correct.pics from ECS website, original https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/12121725020/

    Aftermarket pics based on this website info
    Facet 9.0103
    https://boodmo.com/catalog/part-sens...ssion-2453507/ ERA 550277
    https://boodmo.com/catalog/part-rpm_...ement-2847082/ MEAT & DORIA 87418
    https://boodmo.com/catalog/part-rpm_...ement-2886417/
    no pics available from SIDAT 83357 + Hoffer 7517418

    This is not the first time that I read that when donuts are not working properly or the ignition wires/plugs # 6 and 12 are not functiong, there will be engine problems. So if the M70 starts, idles for some seconds, then dies, also check the ignition wires, plugs and donuts from cylinder 6 and 12.

    The usual cause of running for a few seconds and then stopping is the lack of cylinder identification signals. These are provided by the inductive sensors on HT leads 6 and 12. When you get a fault with INPA ti-signal, this is the injection time signal, the base timing is derived from the cylinder identification signal. We had the same problem some years back on an 850: lack of cylinder identification signals. In our case the ignition wire boot of cylinder 12 was lose/not connected to the spark plug.
    Before we checked the usually subjects like fuel pumps, fuel pressure, ignition = distributors + rotors, crankshaft position sensors.

    The car is telling you what is wrong, the CID sensors...
    Make sure you have them plugged into the right plugs?
    Make sure they are actually any good? Bad "donuts" have been a common problem with some replacements...(aftermarket).

    Another comment: Friend had same sort of problem a while back, motor would start and then died shortly thereafter. He'd brought it used from out of state. I had a suspicion after listening to the motor start and die a few times that not all cylinders were firing. I took a look and found they were from a 3 series! Popped in a spare set from an M70 and the car fired up and purred like a kitten. Turns out original owner sold car because it kept shutting off.

    So important is, when you change ignition wires and re-use the old donuts, make sure the donuts are installed the same way as original, not flipped.
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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Orange Park FL
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    92 750iL 88 M6

    Shogun's Plug Wire Install Write Up

    Installing Shogun's plug wires.

    I did not take pics, sorry. I am the impatient type and taking pics takes too long plus I don't wear gloves so I would have to wash my hand every time to pick up my camera. So hopefully my write up will be good enough to understand and if you have questions please let me know.

    This will be in a semi bullet/step style write up with notes, I will not bore you will some hurdle details I needed to overcome just the fixes/work arounds.

    First off these wires are excellent quality!

    The "wood" screw type connector is traditional type i.e. if you are looking at the top of the screw it is clockwise on counter clockwise off. Righty tighty lefty loosey.

    I laid out all wires to get the groupings done and label all the wires with 1-12 by the distributor boot.

    I Installed the CI sensor on 6 and 12 wires. 1st hurdle, I could NOT unscrew the plug ends because the rubber boot was so tight and I could not verify removal unscrew direction at this point. I just pulled the boot off with force hoping it would not damage anything else. Once that was done and the plug end was cleaned of any remaining wire in the screw portion I was able to verify righty tighty lefty loosey. Installed CI Sensors. 2nd hurdle could not screw the ends back on due the rubber boot being so tight. So I removed the actual plug by prying it out. Once out I slid the boot over the wire and down a few inches then screwed the ends on and slid the boot over the ends. Be careful push/pull only on the plug itself (NOT THE WIRE) when doing this so you don't pull the wire out of the plug again. I used some dielectric grease to help.

    Installed the wires into the guides, this took some playing around to get the wires to lay nicely.

    Installed wires and guides into car, unplugged at this point.

    ** These wires do not self align to the spark plugs or the distributor cap plugs like the OEM wires/boots, more on this at end of write up**

    Started to plug wires on to plugs. 3rd hurdle, I could not get the boots to plug onto the spark plugs, see note above. This took a while but the fix was to wiggle the plug boot around till it lined up on the spark plug and push hard. Once I realized this it was not a big deal.

    Started to plug wires to distributor. 4th hurdle, once again you have to wiggle the boots around to get them to plug in.

    Plugged CI sensors in

    After install was done just a quick double to make sure I had correct order on distributor cap I started it up.

    **So more on the wire plugs. I cannot say for the spark plug side of the wire why it did not self align but the distributor side I can say it is because the portion of the plug that goes into the distributor is thinner then the OEM plugs so they will not self align. I am assuming that it is a similar issue with the spark plug side being that the boot is a bit too wide to align on spark plug. Either way you HAVE to wiggle the boot around till it seats properly and then push, this took some time the first go around. If/when I have to do it again it will be much faster.**

    Install time: 3hours, once again it would have been about 1-2 hours if I had the forehand knowledge of the screw direction and the alignment.
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  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Calgary, Canada
    Posts
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    My Cars
    '91 E31 850i,'05 E53 4.4
    I too have just done this task and agree with Dv8or. kind of a hard task to do, but very doable with patience and grease grease grease to lube the boot up to slide off and on again.
    I put them in my car tonight and I swear it seems like a new engine. So glad I bought the new wires and new cyl ID sensors (from BMW).
    thanks again Shogun.
    And just to let people know, I tried the aftermarket cyl id sensors sold by worldpac and they do not work. Have to use BMW brand cylinder id sensors (aka pulse generators). So yes I was "lucky" and got to do the job of removing/adding the boots twice.
    I swear, my cars are like a girlfriend.
    Sometimes its a rough ride, sometimes its smooth motorin'.
    Sometimes she doesnt like how i treat her and sometimes i dont like how she behaves.
    BUT at the end of the day, she loves it when I am inside her.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Japan
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    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    My igntion wires come without ID sensors. Please buy locally your ID sensors and put then on, I suggest in this case you buy genuine/original from BMW or online vendors. Genuine! Pulse generator 2 pieces # 12121725020, original BMW, not aftermarket. Part 12121725020 (Pulse generator) was found on the following vehicles: E31 850Ci, E31 850CSi, E32 750iL/i/iLS Sedan.Cylinder Identification Sensor (donuts) 12121725020, 12121725023.The second is ended and replace by 020 according to RealOEM.

    @Michael: 1 M70 ignition wire set for your E32 750iL was shipped out today to San Jose, CA
    @Triggsy: 1 ignition wire set for M70 will be shipped to U.K. this week.

    Fits on BMW
    E32 750iL 1987-94 5.0 Ltr M70 B50
    E38 1995-01 5.0,5.4 Ltr M73
    E31 850Ci/i 1991-94 5.0 Ltr M70 B50
    E31 1995-97 5.4 Ltr M73
    E31 850CSi 1994-96 5.6 M70 B50
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  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    UK
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    1988 BMW 750i
    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    @Triggsy
    1 ignition wire set for M70 will be shipped to U.K. this week.
    Arrived safe and sound this week. Thanks Shogun.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Mclean, VA
    Posts
    306
    My Cars
    1992 850i, 2015 M5
    Got mine. Thanks Shogun!

    Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
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    My Cars
    "96 850
    I'm changing my plug wires... so these are better quality than OEM and cheaper? I'm definitely interested!

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Japan
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    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    Yes, and cheaper, but they come without the donuts/pulse generator #7 and without the ignition wire tubing # 2 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=12_1584
    You get 12 wires with sockets for connection to the distributor and the spark plugs, plus 2 wires and 2 sockets for connection between ignition coil and distributor = total 14 wires with sockets on each end.
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  16. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Sweden
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    113
    My Cars
    Blue 850/92 White 850/91
    Thanks
    Picked up cables at the Post today

    Regards
    //Per

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Napoleon, Ohio
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    94 740iL,91 850i,88 M6
    Shogun, I tried finding out how to DM you but I'm on a mobile device and I couldn't figure it out :p (and no, I'm not an old man who doesn't know how to use forums, just couldn't find it :/). I just bought two sets of wires from Bavauto for 199.99 a set. If your wires are cheaper/higher quality I would love to return mine and buy yours. Please let me know via a DM or reply. Thanks!

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Japan
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    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    From me you would get in total 14 wires with plugs for about half of that shipped by airparcel, but maybe you also have to pay import duty. Each wire with a plug/boot on each side, not included are the donuts/pulse generators and the plastic ignition harness/cable funnel, these you would have to use from the old ones. That means you get 12 wires for each cylinder and 2 wires between ignition coils and distributors with angled boots/plugs on each side.
    The price from bavauto is not bad (do not know the brand), they sell you the complete wiring with funnelsignition harness with donuts + wiring. Ready to install.
    In case of my wires you have to add on cylinder 6 and 12 the old donuts or buy new ones in case the old ones are bad, and if the cable funnel/harness is old and broken, the bavauto sets might be more $, but you get more too.
    So, if you do not want to DIY = add the donuts on the cyl. 6 and 12, and the 2 old cable funnels are broken, buy from bavauto, costs more, but complete sets. Always depends on the condition of the existing parts.
    My cables are for the DIYer which wants to replace the wires at low cost and is willing to do some work to add donuts and re-use the old harness.

    Wire length: approx. length from end to end incl. the boot on each side, so one can double check on his car model and engine =M70/M73: the one which goes between ignition coil + distributor 54 cm/21.3", 44cm/17,3", 51cm/20", 60cm/23,6", 70cm/27,5", 77cm/30", 85cm/33"
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  19. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    beaverton,OR
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    195
    My Cars
    1989 750IL

    M70 plug wires from shogun. Very happy.

    While I'm waiting for new head bolts I decided to install the doughnuts and reference wire from the original bremi plug wires onto my new wire set from Shogun. The first wire was a real pain to figure out but the following 23 wires were a piece of cake so I thought I'd share what I discovered.

    First off they were very similar in design so I waisted a bunch of time experimenting very carefully on the new when I finally realized I should start with the old. Working from the distributor cap end of the plug wires, I shoved a slim flat blade screwdriver in-between the rubber boot and the wire. Than squirted some WD40 along side the screw driver and worked that in. Than squirted more WD40 into the large end of the boot, the end that actually connects to the distributor. Work that in, The more the better. I was than able to simply unscrew the wire from the boot. Right tighty-left loosey style. Repeat on the new wires and swap over doughnuts and sensor. I noticed the new wires were slightly shorter and ended up cutting off a couple doughnuts because it felt a little tight when stuffing them back in the harness. Took me about an hour and a half.

    On a side note: normally with the old wires you'd want to cut a few mm's off of the plug wire before you screw the boot back on to ensure a good connection but with the new wires there is actually a brass fitting on the the end of the wire, so that takes that step out along with wondering if you have a good connection.

    Next is to install the Shogun chip set!

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Japan
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    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    Important info about location and identification of crankshaft position sensors and cylinder identification and direction of installing the donuts/CI https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ex-Sensors-M70

    @Sundancer: ignition leads with lengths 85cm, 77cm, 60cm shipped to Kinkardine based on this pic of ignition leads and positions of cylinders http://www.meeknet.co.uk/E32/V12_Distributor_Leads.htm
    The approx. length from end to end incl. the boot on each side, so you can double check on your car: the one which goes between ignition coil + distributor 54 cm/21.3", 44cm/17,3", 51cm/20", 60cm/23,6", 70cm/27,5", 77cm/30", 85cm/33"

    Important Note: Never pull on the ignition wire when you want to remove the boot from spark plug. Always pull, twist and wiggle on the boot. Or use a spark plug plier boot removal tool, there are special tools that perform well in difficult areas such as recessed and obstructed plugs. If you pull on the wire you might find a metal collar is left on the end of the spark plug ┬ľ this is not a problem. This type of ignition boot uses a friction fit metal collar that is designed to separate from the boot if it gets stuck on the spark plug. The simplest solution is to remove the spark plug, remove the collar, and reinstall the collar into the plug. You can also try to remove the collar with the spark plug in place using long nose pliers but make sure you don't drop it; use a magnet, if required. Clean the inside of the collar and push it (small hole in first) down into the boot until it seats on the end of the wire.
    The arrangement is shown here; the rubber of the boot was cut away to show the parts better. The rubber can be moved back up the wire but some lubricant might be needed.
    http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=...c#.WfQWy-8UmUk
    http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=...c#.WfQW7O8UmUk
    http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=...c#.WfQXDe8UmUk
    http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=...c#.WfQXMe8UmUk
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  21. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Whitney, TX
    Posts
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    My Cars
    97 850CI
    Thanks shogun.
    Desecrator of all things Sacred

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    N/A
    Posts
    2,934
    My Cars
    TT Cayenne / SC 850
    I have a question, I like your wire sets and everything, looked at them personally, but why not supply these wires with CPS sensor pre installed so the buyers don't have to do surgery on the wires?

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    44,959
    My Cars
    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    My offer is to be understood as low cost DIY repair. Without new donuts, without new cable funnel/brackets. Also it would make it more difficult for me, some want their old, used CPS sensors installed again on the new wires, some want original new expensive BMW ones, other ones the cheap FACET, ERA, MEAT+DORIA, SIDAT or whatever version, so that is the reason why I offer the wires with boots only.
    In addition I would have to buy and stock these additional parts at my cost and shipping cost would also increase. So each one can decide on his own and make it DIY like he wants. Also as back-up to replace single wires in existing sets.
    Those who do not like this DIY should buy somewhere else a complete new ignition wire set right and left side including donuts and the new cable funnels/brackets + and marten repeller, of course that is then much more expensive than my low cost offer.
    SHOGUN'S TRICKS AND TIPS FOR THE SEVEN SERIES
    http://twrite.org/shogunnew/topmenu.html

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Ontario
    Posts
    14
    My Cars
    1991 BMW 850I E31
    i know this is an older post but, when you mentioned to make sure the old donuts are not flipped, You mean that the CI sensor is put back on to the new wire the way it came off ? meaning the sensors are directional ?

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Japan
    Posts
    44,959
    My Cars
    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    Exactly, install same way as it was originally installed, see post # 21 https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ex-Sensors-M70
    The installation direction is determined by the shape of the donut. The bore is slightly conical on the inside and get's on the side, where the small 3 noses are located smaller in diameter and will not fit from this side onto the ignition wire. Thus, the side with the small lugs should be in the direction of the distributor and the more open side with the radius in the direction of the spark plug.
    example from Johan's site
    http://bmwe32.masscom.net/sean750/Re...rkPlugBoot.jpg
    http://bmwe32.masscom.net/sean750/Re...OfDistrCap.jpg

    How To Properly Use Dielectric Grease On Spark Plug Wires: This video show the proper us of dielectric grease on spark plug wires. It also shows where not to use the grease, and the problems you might experience with improper use of di-electric grease.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-542IYGBbpg
    SHOGUN'S TRICKS AND TIPS FOR THE SEVEN SERIES
    http://twrite.org/shogunnew/topmenu.html

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