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Thread: FS Ignition wires for M70 and M73 engine

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3

    FS Ignition wires for M70 and M73 engine

    Presently have them in black and a limited number in red colour available. Made in the EU by a company that produces ignition systems. Ignition cable isolation silicone/EPDM material and copper core. Heat resistance: -40 degree C. to + 220 degree C. Cable diameter: 7mm. Much softer than the OEM ones. Wire length: approx. length from end to end incl. the boot on each side, so one can double check on his car model and engine = M70/M73: the one which goes between ignition coil + distributor 54 cm/21.3", 44cm/17,3", 51cm/20", 60cm/23,6", 70cm/27,5", 77cm/30", 85cm/33" . Route the cable from ignition coil to distributor not thru the cable bracket, connect directly, easier for service.
    Why should you replace your original wires? Here is a few reasons: new spark plug wires provide better conductivity and more spark. Better conductivity and more spark means improved throttle response. Good plug wires are absolutely essential for reliable ignition performance and trouble-free operation. A bad spark plug plug wire may create so much resistance that the voltage never reaches the plug, or a break in the insulation may allow the spark to arc to ground. Either way, a bad plug wire will cause a spark plug to misfire. Bad spark plug plug wires can cause hard starting (particularly during wet weather), poor fuel economy, rough idle, hesitation when accelerating and increased hydrocarbon (HC) emissions. Spark plug wires should always be inspected if any of these symptoms are present, and when the spark plugs are changed. If wires show any obvious damage such as burned or cracked insulation, chaffing, loose plug boots or terminals, the wires should be replaced. Also, if visible arcing is present new wires are needed. Wires should also be replaced if their resistance measured end to end with an ohmmeter exceeds OEM specifications.
    Without the 2 donuts/speed sensors (can be used from the old set or separate buy/supply new ones) and without the funnel/bracket (use the old funnel/bracket installed in the car). No marten repeller included too.
    To add the donuts, see here the instructions in another post in this thread.

    set of black ignition wires consisting of 12 ignition wires between distributors and spark plugs + 2 wires between ignition coils + distributors = total 14 wires US$ 190 ex Japan+ shipping to contry of destination.
    set RED ignition cable sets consisting of 12 wires between distributors + spark plugs + 2 wires between ignition coils + distributors = total 14 wires US$ 210/set ex Japan + shipping to country of destination.
    Paypal o.k. Please contact me by PM with shipping address. Make sure your old plastic ignition wire tubes are not brittle.

    M30/M70 ignition system data accdg to Bentley: Coil primary, coil code # 02051118335 (round type, aka rod-type) terminals 1 (-) and 15 (+) resistance 0.50 ohm, Coil primary, coil code # 20510171101 (ring type ignition coil) terminals 1 (-) and 15 (+) resistance 0.37 ohm, Coil secondary, coil code # 2051118335 terminals 15 (+) and 4 (ctr.) resistance 6.0 kohm, Coil secondary, coil code # 20510171101 terminals 15 (+) and 4 (ctr.) resistance 9.0 kohm
    spark plug ends 5.0+/- 10% kohm, shielded plugs 1.0 +/- 20% kohm, spark plug wires 0 ohm (approx.), rotor 1.1 +/- 10% kohm

    M70 firing order: 1-7-5-11-3-9-6-12-2-8-4-10, crankshaft position/rpm sensor: 540+/- 10% ohm
    from workshop manual: distributor rotor 1+/-20% kohm, angled/shielded connectors 1+/- 20% kohm, spark plug connectors 5+/- 20% kohm, cylinder identification sender coil resistance at 20 degree C (68F) <1 ohm, pulse sender/crankshaft position sensor coil resistance 540 +/- 10% ohm, Donut/ cylinder identification M70, S70: Resistance at 3-pin connector. Measure plug between pin 1 + 2, ≤1 ohm, insulation resistance between pin 2 + 3: ≥ 10 MOhm, temperature switch for e-box cooling E32 750: switch on at 44 +/- 3 degree C, switch off at 36 +/- 3 degree C.

    coolant sensors: if the coolant and temperature sensors are not connected or bad, then the system will go to pre-set failsave values, which means it always uses data for a cold engine. Here are the test data which you can test on the DME pins, remove the cap on top of the DME -156 M1.2 connector and use a multimeter, the pins are marked with numbers http://www.europeantransmission.com/...out1988_90.pdf
    sensors from fender to middle of the engine: http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E3...g_system_pipe/
    # 8 12621710535 2-POL M14x1,5 , black 5000 Ohm, for temperature gauge sender, spec by Hella: M14x1,5, NTC-Sensor; resistance Ohm: 5000, 544 ; color: schwarz, V: 12.
    # 7 temperature sensor water 12621288158 M14X1,5 engine coolant temperature sensor for DME, (20 deg. C, 2500 Ohm.) (White Top)
    # 5 temperature sensor water, 13621707366 3-POL-2500-OHM , EML coolant temperature sensor
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by shogun; 04-28-2023 at 11:45 PM.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    1991 e32 750il
    Thanks for all your help shogun! I wasn't sure when the wires got here how they came apart. He went out of his way to send me some pictures of everything taken apart! Great set of wires, Great customer service, Excellent guy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Everyone needs a set of these for there 750!

    Thanks,

    Ryan

  3. #3
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    blue set I once sold back in 2009 looks like this http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/767718 cable - double layer of silicon with braid conductor,single copper wires 1mm ,tin plating silicon terminals with suppressor resistor (used boots and terminals are identical to the original) may be applied to vehicles equipped with LPG installation,will fit on the BMW tube ,outer diameter of the black cable version is (roughly) 6.90 mm =0.271 in
    I also have single cables with boots available, as I decided to sell one set part by part to help out some people here which just need one wire with boots. That are (at the moment, subject to prior sale) all wires with boots from cylinder 1 to 12, plus the wires with boots between ignition coils and distributor caps center. In case you need a single one, tell me by PM the number of the cylinder and also the length of the wire including the boots in Centimeters to avoid misunderstandings. Just for info the approx. length by cable/cylinder taken from internet info from end to end incl. the boot on each side: the ones which go between ignition coil + distributor 54 cm/21.3", others 44cm/17,3", 51cm/20", 60cm/23,6", 70cm/27,5", 77cm/30", 85cm/33".

    Important Note: Never pull on the ignition wire when you want to remove the boot from spark plug. Always pull, twist and wiggle on the boot. Or use a spark plug plier boot removal tool, there are special tools that perform well in difficult areas such as recessed and obstructed plugs. If you pull on the wire you might find a metal collar is left on the end of the spark plug – this is not a problem. This type of ignition boot uses a friction fit metal collar on one side towards the spark plug that is designed to separate from the boot if it gets stuck on the spark plug. The simplest solution is to remove the spark plug, remove the collar, and reinstall the collar into the plug. You can also try to remove the collar with the spark plug in place using long nose pliers but make sure you don't drop it; use a magnet, if required. Clean the inside of the collar and push it (small hole in first) down into the boot until it seats on the end of the wire. https://postlmg.cc/gwXDtg4w On the ignition wire side there is a woodscrew type connection, see how to repair in post 5 https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...park-plug-boot
    Last edited by shogun; 01-25-2024 at 09:59 PM.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    Orange Park FL
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    92 750iL 88 M6
    Thank you Shogun!! A set of new pretty blue plug wires just showed up =). So got new wires, new CI sensors and new plugs, just waiting on the new distributor caps and rotors to be delivered.
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  5. #5
    Join Date
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    '91 E31 850i,'05 E53 4.4
    Hi all. Has anyone measured the resistance for their wires AFTER they have installed the CID sensors?
    These are the values I got if you'd like to compare

    Side one:
    1) 5.62ohm (shortest wire)
    2) 5.82ohm
    3) 5.95ohm
    4) 5.97ohm
    5) 6.13ohm
    6) 5.78ohm (longest wire)
    Ignition wire) 2.05ohm

    Side two:
    1) 6.13ohm (shortest wire)
    2) 5.82ohm
    3) 5.73ohm
    4) 5.75ohm
    5) 6.10ohm
    6) 5.91ohm (longest wire)
    Ignition wire) 2.04ohm

    Do you know if these numbers prove good connectivity between ends?
    I was more curious about the 6.13ohm on the #1 wire on set two. I was playing with removing the wires from their wood screw connectors and heard a bunch of "crunching" as I kept twisting wires. I am worried I may have broke many wires inside the silicone sheath.
    I swear, my cars are like a girlfriend.
    Sometimes its a rough ride, sometimes its smooth motorin'.
    Sometimes she doesnt like how i treat her and sometimes i dont like how she behaves.
    BUT at the end of the day, she loves it when I am inside her.

  6. #6
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    Bentley manual mentions as reference: spark plug ends 5.0 +/- 10% kOhm, shielded plugs 1.0 +/- 20% kOhm, spark plug wires 0 Ohm approx. ,
    workshop manual: angled/shielded connectors 1+/- 20% kohm, spark plug connectors 5+/- 20% kohm, so based on this all is o.k. within tolerances.
    The angled boots between the ignition coil and distributor center are each 1 kOhm, so 2 kOhm in total.
    Important for measurement is that the multimeter probe pins are usually too short for the long, straight spark plug boot, you need a pin at least 2 in or 5cm long to have good contact for measuring correctly.
    One has to push into the long booth the probe fully and wiggle a bit to get contact and read correct, just inserting the probe does not work, you have to hold the long boot, push the probe in and wiggle it, otherwise no good contact, that rubber is 2 in long up to the metal part inside. Easiest is to insert a screwdriver into the long boot + then hold the probe onto the screwdriver. That is valid for original + aftermarket wires.

    Importance of functioning donuts, cyl. identification sensors M70
    I read in the German forum about a case where someone changed on his M70 distributors, rotors, spark plugs and ignition wires on cyl. 6 and 12 and used the re-old donuts. Then he had trouble. Engine starts, runs short time with increased RPM and then dies. EML lamp goes on with ignition on and then goes out again as it should be. Diagnosis faults: fault ignition cylinder 1-6 and 7-12. That was 2 weeks ago. Today he fixed it. He noticed that he installed the cylinder identification sensors/donuts/pulse generators on ignition wires cyl. 6 and 12 the wrong way. Turned the donuts the correct way and engine runs starts and smooth.
    This is not the first time that I read that when donuts are not working properly or the ignition wires/plugs # 6 and 12 are not functioning, there will be engine problems. So if the M70 starts, idles for some seconds, then dies, also check the ignition wires, plugs and donuts from cylinder 6 and 12. The usual cause of running for a few seconds and then stopping is the lack of cylinder identification signals. These are provided by the inductive sensors on HT leads 6 and 12. When you get a fault with INPA ti-signal, this is the injection time signal, the base timing is derived from the cylinder identification signal. We had the same problem some years back on an 850: lack of cylinder identification signals. In our case the ignition wire boot of cylinder 12 was lose/not connected to the spark plug. Before we checked the usually subjects like fuel pumps, fuel pressure, ignition = distributors + rotors, crankshaft position sensors.

    The car is telling you what is wrong, the CID sensors... Make sure you have them plugged into the right plugs? Make sure they are actually any good? Bad "donuts" have been a common problem with some replacements...(aftermarket). Another comment: Friend had same sort of problem a while back, motor would start and then died shortly thereafter. He'd brought it used from out of state. I had a suspicion after listening to the motor start and die a few times that not all cylinders were firing. I took a look and found they were from a 3 series! Popped in a spare set from an M70 and the car fired up and purred like a kitten. Turns out original owner sold car because it kept shutting off. So important is, when you change ignition wires and re-use the old donuts, make sure the donuts are installed the same way as original, not flipped.
    -----
    if the CPS is not working = engine does not start. Donuts: Cold start control- official German language paper from BMW https://web.archive.org/web/20141031...DME11-735i.pdf

    see Kaltstartsteuerung = cold start control, translation below
    At the beginning of the starting phase, an increased quantity of fuel is injected 3 times per cylinder group up to 5 crankshaft revolutions. This depends on the engine temperature. During the start phase, the initial injection quantity is reduced depending on temperature and engine speed in order to prevent too fat mixture. In case of repeated start within one minute, the full start injection quantity is no longer allocated. After the start (from approx. 600 RPM) the injection takes place only 1 time per crankshaft revolution, per cylinder group. This means that at the first revolution, injection takes place into cylinders 2,4,6 and at the second revolution, into cylinders 1,3,5. In the warm-up phase up to 70 degrees Celsius engine temperature, the injection times are also extended accordingly, depending on the speed and temperature. The values are permanently programmed in the control unit.

    Injection modes: one injection valve group each (2,4,6/1,3,5) is controlled by a power stage (current amplifier). This makes it possible to divide the injection cycle into cylinder groups. This also ensures limited engine operation in the event of failure of one group.
    Semi-sequential injection: starting at a speed of 600-800 rpm, injection is made only once per 720 degree crank angle into a cylinder group 2,4,6 or 1,3,5. this control can only work if the DME control unit receives a signal from the cylinder identification sensor CID = donut at ignition wire 6. 6 and 12 on the M70.
    Parallel injection: means simultaneous control of all injectors per crankshaft revolution and only occurs if the donut / cylinder identification sensor CID sensor does not provide a signal.

    comment by Bill R.: ... is talking about the sensor on the plug wire that controls the sequencing of the injection not the crank position sensor...If the inductive sensor on the plug wire fails then it goes into gang firing, since the m30 is a semi sequential design meaning that it triggers the injectors in 2 banks of 3 every other revolution, when it goes into the gang fire, then it triggers all six at the same time every revolution but decreases the volume of fuel by 50% .. And i would imagine that all six triggering at the same time would make a much louder noise...

    only the newest M1.7 Motronic has cat protection, my 11/1988 750 one is M1.2: If plug lead 6 or 12 (the ones with the inductive pickup donuts on them) are disconnected or short, a protection circuit embedded within the Motronic will severely clip the duty cycle of the injectors for that side to protect the catalysts from being drenched in raw, un-burned fuel.
    Catalytic converter protection function - Ignition circuit monitoring: The ignition circuit is monitored by the cylinder detection sender (pin 16) on ignition line 6 (or 12). If it detects no ignition signal on ignition line 6 (or 12) , the fuel supply to to the relevant cylinder bank is cut out by shortening the injection signal. The sender monitors the entire primary side of ignition, and cylinder 6 or 12 on the secondary side.

    theory and praxis: but there are many reports that the M70 goes into limp mode when the donut/ CID is defective, the aftermarket ignition wire has a too thick insulation so that the CID cannot receive the signal, or the sparks on cylinder 6 or 12 are not strong enough because of defective ignition wires, often also caused by defective / weak resistor in the 5kohm spark plug boot. Over time, the metal film resistor contained in the plug connector decomposes (oxidizes) and the ignition current becomes too weak.
    Last edited by shogun; 04-29-2023 at 06:59 AM. Reason: update
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    92 750iL 88 M6

    Shogun's Plug Wire Install Write Up

    Installing Shogun's plug wires.

    I did not take pics, sorry. I am the impatient type and taking pics takes too long plus I don't wear gloves so I would have to wash my hand every time to pick up my camera. So hopefully my write up will be good enough to understand and if you have questions please let me know.

    This will be in a semi bullet/step style write up with notes, I will not bore you will some hurdle details I needed to overcome just the fixes/work arounds.

    First off these wires are excellent quality!

    The "wood" screw type connector is traditional type i.e. if you are looking at the top of the screw it is clockwise on counter clockwise off. Righty tighty lefty loosey.

    I laid out all wires to get the groupings done and label all the wires with 1-12 by the distributor boot.

    I Installed the CI sensor on 6 and 12 wires. 1st hurdle, I could NOT unscrew the plug ends because the rubber boot was so tight and I could not verify removal unscrew direction at this point. I just pulled the boot off with force hoping it would not damage anything else. Once that was done and the plug end was cleaned of any remaining wire in the screw portion I was able to verify righty tighty lefty loosey. Installed CI Sensors. 2nd hurdle could not screw the ends back on due the rubber boot being so tight. So I removed the actual plug by prying it out. Once out I slid the boot over the wire and down a few inches then screwed the ends on and slid the boot over the ends. Be careful push/pull only on the plug itself (NOT THE WIRE) when doing this so you don't pull the wire out of the plug again. I used some dielectric grease to help.

    Installed the wires into the guides, this took some playing around to get the wires to lay nicely.

    Installed wires and guides into car, unplugged at this point.

    ** These wires do not self align to the spark plugs or the distributor cap plugs like the OEM wires/boots, more on this at end of write up**

    Started to plug wires on to plugs. 3rd hurdle, I could not get the boots to plug onto the spark plugs, see note above. This took a while but the fix was to wiggle the plug boot around till it lined up on the spark plug and push hard. Once I realized this it was not a big deal.

    Started to plug wires to distributor. 4th hurdle, once again you have to wiggle the boots around to get them to plug in.

    Plugged CI sensors in

    After install was done just a quick double to make sure I had correct order on distributor cap I started it up.

    **So more on the wire plugs. I cannot say for the spark plug side of the wire why it did not self align but the distributor side I can say it is because the portion of the plug that goes into the distributor is thinner then the OEM plugs so they will not self align. I am assuming that it is a similar issue with the spark plug side being that the boot is a bit too wide to align on spark plug. Either way you HAVE to wiggle the boot around till it seats properly and then push, this took some time the first go around. If/when I have to do it again it will be much faster.**

    Install time: 3hours, once again it would have been about 1-2 hours if I had the forehand knowledge of the screw direction and the alignment.
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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
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    '91 E31 850i,'05 E53 4.4
    I too have just done this task and agree with Dv8or. kind of a hard task to do, but very doable with patience and grease grease grease to lube the boot up to slide off and on again.
    I put them in my car tonight and I swear it seems like a new engine. So glad I bought the new wires and new cyl ID sensors (from BMW).
    thanks again Shogun.
    And just to let people know, I tried the aftermarket cyl id sensors sold by worldpac and they do not work. Have to use BMW brand cylinder id sensors (aka pulse generators). So yes I was "lucky" and got to do the job of removing/adding the boots twice.
    I swear, my cars are like a girlfriend.
    Sometimes its a rough ride, sometimes its smooth motorin'.
    Sometimes she doesnt like how i treat her and sometimes i dont like how she behaves.
    BUT at the end of the day, she loves it when I am inside her.

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    My igntion wires come without ID sensors. Please buy locally your ID sensors and put then on, I suggest in this case you buy genuine/original from BMW or online vendors. Genuine! Pulse generator 2 pieces # 12121725020, original BMW, not aftermarket. Part 12121725020 (Pulse generator) was found on the following vehicles: E31 850Ci, E31 850CSi, E32 750iL/i/iLS Sedan.Cylinder Identification Sensor (donuts) 12121725020, 12121725023.The second is ended and replace by 020 according to RealOEM.

    Note for E31 M70 owners: got this Q&A: I noticed while building the ignition cables up, the two coil wires were the exact same length and the ones that came off the car were a few inches different. The coil wire doesn't reach the coil on the left bank. Should one of them have been longer? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dfw...HyS8XLklZ/view https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dgm...o7NuF2iH6/view
    reply: they are always the same length from me, I recommend always not to route the coil wires thru the bracket/holder, just directly from coil to distributor. Or try adjusting the routing of the 2 wires. A E38 750 owners wrote a comment in my FS thread: On the M73 in E38 I noticed that the wires to the coils differ in length compared to the original wires, one is approximately 100 mm shorter and one is approximately 150 mm longer. A slightly different routing of the cables solves that issue. All the other cables are also a little shorter compared to the original ones but that is not a problem. Installation went smooth.

    Fits on BMW
    E32 750iL 1987-94 5.0 Ltr M70 B50
    E38 1995-01 5.0,5.4 Ltr M73
    E31 850Ci/i 1991-94 5.0 Ltr M70 B50
    E31 1995-97 5.4 Ltr M73
    E31 850CSi 1994-96 5.6 M70 B50
    Last edited by shogun; 02-24-2024 at 02:17 AM.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
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    UK
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    1988 BMW 750i
    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    @Triggsy
    1 ignition wire set for M70 will be shipped to U.K. this week.
    Arrived safe and sound this week. Thanks Shogun.

  11. #11
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    1992 850i, 2015 M5
    Got mine. Thanks Shogun!

    Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk

  12. #12
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    Blue 850/92 White 850/91
    Thanks
    Picked up cables at the Post today

    Regards
    //Per

  13. #13
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    Feb 2010
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    beaverton,OR
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    1989 750IL

    M70 plug wires from shogun. Very happy.

    While I'm waiting for new head bolts I decided to install the doughnuts and reference wire from the original bremi plug wires onto my new wire set from Shogun. The first wire was a real pain to figure out but the following 23 wires were a piece of cake so I thought I'd share what I discovered.

    First off they were very similar in design so I waisted a bunch of time experimenting very carefully on the new when I finally realized I should start with the old. Working from the distributor cap end of the plug wires, I shoved a slim flat blade screwdriver in-between the rubber boot and the wire. Than squirted some WD40 along side the screw driver and worked that in. Than squirted more WD40 into the large end of the boot, the end that actually connects to the distributor. Work that in, The more the better. I was than able to simply unscrew the wire from the boot. Right tighty-left loosey style. Repeat on the new wires and swap over doughnuts and sensor. I noticed the new wires were slightly shorter and ended up cutting off a couple doughnuts because it felt a little tight when stuffing them back in the harness. Took me about an hour and a half.

    On a side note: normally with the old wires you'd want to cut a few mm's off of the plug wire before you screw the boot back on to ensure a good connection but with the new wires there is actually a brass fitting on the the end of the wire, so that takes that step out along with wondering if you have a good connection.

    Next is to install the Shogun chip set!

  14. #14
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    Thanks shogun.
    Desecrator of all things Sacred

  15. #15
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    Supercharged 850ci
    I have a question, I like your wire sets and everything, looked at them personally, but why not supply these wires with CPS sensor pre installed so the buyers don't have to do surgery on the wires?

  16. #16
    Join Date
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    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    My offer is to be understood as low cost DIY repair. Without new donuts, without new cable funnel/brackets. Also it would make it more difficult for me, some want their old, used CPS sensors installed again on the new wires, some want original new expensive BMW ones, other ones the cheap FACET, ERA, MEAT+DORIA, SIDAT or whatever version, so that is the reason why I offer the wires with boots only.
    In addition I would have to buy and stock these additional parts at my cost and shipping cost would also increase. So each one can decide on his own and make it DIY like he wants. Also as back-up to replace single wires in existing sets.
    Those who do not like this DIY should buy somewhere else a complete new ignition wire set right and left side including donuts and the new cable funnels/brackets + and marten repeller, of course that is then much more expensive than my low cost offer.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  17. #17
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    Sep 2017
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    1991 BMW 850I E31
    i know this is an older post but, when you mentioned to make sure the old donuts are not flipped, You mean that the CI sensor is put back on to the new wire the way it came off ? meaning the sensors are directional ?

  18. #18
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    Exactly, install same way as it was originally installed, see post # 21 https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ex-Sensors-M70
    The installation direction is determined by the shape of the donut. The bore is slightly conical on the inside and get's on the side, where the small 3 noses are located smaller in diameter and will not fit from this side onto the ignition wire. Thus, the side with the small lugs should be in the direction of the distributor and the more open side with the radius in the direction of the spark plug.
    example from Johan's site
    http://bmwe32.masscom.net/sean750/Re...rkPlugBoot.jpg
    http://bmwe32.masscom.net/sean750/Re...OfDistrCap.jpg

    How To Properly Use Dielectric Grease On Spark Plug Wires: This video show the proper us of dielectric grease on spark plug wires. It also shows where not to use the grease, and the problems you might experience with improper use of di-electric grease.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-542IYGBbpg
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  19. #19
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    52/61 E31 Platinum,GT350
    Thanks Shogun, I received the parcel in post today, great service really appreciate it.
    Last edited by shogun; 12-03-2019 at 08:18 PM.

  20. #20
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    1995 BMW 750
    Finally I found some time to install the wires

    On the M73 in E38 I noticed that the wires to the coils differ in length compared to the original wires, one is approximately 100 mm shorter and one is approximately 150 mm longer. A slightly different routing of the cables solves that issue. All the other cables are also a little shorter compared to the original ones but that is not a problem. Installation went smooth for being a task under the hood on the 750

    // Magnus

    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    @750 Swede: 1 set ignition wires in RED for your M73 shipped to Sweden

  21. #21
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    Here's a quick & simple write up by forum member sreten with pictures for installing cylinder identification sensors aka donuts on wires #6 and #12. These wires are identified by comparing length with the rest of the wires, them being the longest ones obviously. On the distributor boot end of the wire, get a slim flat blade screwdriver and slide it between the rubber boot and the wire. Use a lubricant of your preference, in my case WD-40, and spray it liberally. Follow up with more lubricant into the boot opening.



    Work it in and you should be able to simply slide over the rubber boot towards the inner part of the wire like this. Hold the wire and push on the boot, don't pull on the cable. Use more lubricant if necessary as you don't want to pull on the wire and stretch it.



    Grab and hold the wire with a microfiber cloth (for better grip) and start unscrewing the plug in anti-clockwise direction. It takes a decent amount of force to unscrew the plug so don't be afraid to use it as you can't really do any damage here.
    The plug simply unscrews and the woodscrew inside looks like this.




    Remove the rubber boot from the wire and it's time to install the cylinder identification sensor. The direction in which the sensor is installed matters. If you are reusing your old sensors, simply install them using your old wires as a reference.
    If you are installing new sensors, as I did, the 4 tips/prongs should be pointed in the distributor cap direction like this.




    Lubricate the rubber boot and slide it back onto the wire.



    Grab a pair of sharp scissors and cut off 3 mm of the end of the wire thus getting a fresh bit of the wire where the woodscrew will go in.



    Apply WD-40 on the end of the wire and reinstall the plug by screwing it back into place in the clockwise direction. Slide the rubber boot over the plug, if needed use more WD-40 to help boot slide easier without putting stress on the wire.




    Now we want to verify that we have a proper connection and installation was successful. Break out your multimeter and set it to measure resistance (Ω). Stick a test lead at each end of the wire and you should be getting a readout of around 6 kOhm. This goes for all 12 wires, spark plug boot is 5 kOhm and distributor cap boot is 1 kOhm. The wire for ignition coil to the distributor cap is 2kOhm.



    Additionally, you can wiggle and bend the wires slightly to make sure the connection is constant and doesn't drop.



    Job well done.
    Last edited by shogun; 12-15-2018 at 07:54 PM.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  22. #22
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    FS Ignition wires for M70 and M73 engine

    changing the original spark plug boot from a German forum regarding M70/S70 ignition wires, seems in most cases the long boot going to the spark plug is the problem, the resistor inside the long boot get’s bad over the years, German text
    Beim M70 werden Zuendkerzenhersteller 5000-OHM 12121710707 benoetigt. Ich mochte beim S70 Motor die Zundkerzenstecker wechseln. Ist es wirklich so aufwendig, wie es in der Original BMW Reparaturanleitung steht ? Laut dieser braucht man hierzu mehrere Spezialwerkzeuge....Lt. dem aktuellen BMW Ersatzteilkatalog finde ich folgende Teile, kann mir jemand sagen,ob das so vollstaendig ist + warum 3 Teile ausgewiesen sind:
    Kerzenstecker. 12121710707 , Isolierhulse 12121736142 , Rundstecker 12121705656
    --------------
    Zuendkerzenstecker Bosch / Bremi mit 5KOhm Innenwiderstand. Im Laufe der Zeit zersetzt (oxidiert) der im Kerzenstecker enthaltene Metallfilmwiderstand sich und der Zuendstrom wird zu schwach. Das Wechseln der Kerzenstecker ist denkbar einfach, solange die Kupplungshuelse noch fest mit dem Kabel verbunden ist. du schneidest das Gummi des Kerzensteckers am oberen Ende vorsichtig auf, damit die Keramik freiliegt. mit einem kleinen Hammer nun den oberen Teil der Keramik zerschlagen, bis die silberne Kupplungshuelse freiliegt. Die Kupplungshuelse kann nun mit einem Dorn entriegelt und abgezogen werden. Der Neue z.B. Bremi / Bosch Kerzenstecker wird nun am Kabeleinlass mit etwas Fett oder Vaseline geschmeidig gemacht. Nun einen kleinen Schraubendreher am Kabel entlang in die Huelse einstecken und durch das Kabelloch des Kerzensteckers fuehren bis er hoerbar einrastet. Hierzu gibt es ein Spezialwerkzeug, eine Ahle welches das Zuendkabel umschliest und auf der Kupplungshuelse aufsetzt.

    TRANSLATION: The M70 requires spark plug boot 5000-OHM is p/n 12121710707. I would like to change the spark plug boot on the S70 engine. Is it really as difficult as it is described in the original BMW repair manual? According to this one needs several special tools ....
    Accdg to the current BMW spare parts catalog, I find the following parts, can someone tell me, if this is so complete + why 3 parts are shown: spark plug boot 12121710707, Insulating sleeve 12121736142, Round connector 12121705656
    --------------
    Reply: You will need spark plug boots Bosch / Bremi with 5KOhm with internal resistance. Over time, the metal film resistor contained in the plug connector decomposes (oxidizes) and the ignition current becomes too weak.
    Changing the plug connector is very easy, as long as the coupling sleeve is still firmly connected to the cable. Carefully cut the rubber of the plug boot at the top so that the ceramic is exposed. Smash the upper part of the ceramic with a small hammer until the silver coupling sleeve is exposed. The coupling sleeve can now be unlocked and removed with a mandrel. The new e.g. The Bremi / Bosch spark plug connector is now made flexible at the cable inlet with a little grease or Vaseline. Now insert a small screwdriver along the cable into the socket and guide it through the cable hole of the plug boot until it clicks into place.There is also a special tool for this purpose, which wraps around the ignition cable and attaches it to the coupling sleeve.
    -----------------
    The defective spark plug boot is now replaced. I bought the BERU tool EFS7 (introductory probe), so that you get the cable including the detent sleeve quite well into the boot. The engine is now running well again even at low speeds, unbelievable what effects a defective spark plug connector can have ... I have modified the tool handle by grinding a hollow line, so that the cable can run through better ....
    picture below of the spark plug side and the distributor side, I cut an original Bremi open. The genuine spark plug boot/socket is quite expensive, for example BREMI 13226/5 = 12121710707 regular price about $35.00/piece.
    Alternatively one can have from me the aftermarket ignition wires for M70/M73
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  23. #23
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    My cables are for the DIYer which wants to replace the wires at low cost and is willing to do some work to add donuts and re-use the old harness.
    Wire length: approx. length from end to end incl. the boot on each side, so one can double check on his car model and engine =M70/M73: the one which goes between ignition coil + distributor 54 cm/21.3", 44cm/17,3", 51cm/20", 60cm/23,6", 70cm/27,5", 77cm/30", 85cm/33"
    Important info about location and identification of crankshaft position sensors and cylinder identification and direction of installing the donuts/CI https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ex-Sensors-M70

    Important Note: Never pull on the ignition wire when you want to remove the boot from spark plug. Always pull, twist and wiggle on the boot. Or use a spark plug plier boot removal tool, there are special tools that perform well in difficult areas such as recessed and obstructed plugs. If you pull on the wire you might find a metal collar is left on the end of the spark plug – this is not a problem. This type of ignition boot uses a friction fit metal collar that is designed to separate from the boot if it gets stuck on the spark plug. The simplest solution is to remove the spark plug, remove the collar, and reinstall the collar into the plug. You can also try to remove the collar with the spark plug in place using long nose pliers but make sure you don't drop it; use a magnet, if required. Clean the inside of the collar and push it (small hole in first) down into the boot until it seats on the end of the wire.

    I also have some extra, new Ignition Coil Wires in black which attach between coil and distributor cap, BMW p/n for comparison 12121725038, original ones are MSRP $50.07/piece, can offer cheaper,my ones consisting of silicone cable copper core, 2 boots angled, each 1 K Ohm. Contact me in case of need with zip for shipping cost calculation, can sell single or as pair, whatever is needed. Limited qty available. Pic of black cable set and the connection shown between the spark plug boot/cable towards spark plug, extra cut one off to show that
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by shogun; 05-31-2023 at 07:12 AM.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  24. #24
    Join Date
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    '91 850i Calypso red, '9
    Received a set of Shogun’s excellent wires just recently, he saved me from spending more on lesser quality wires!

    My 2000 750iL M73 was woken up a little bit by these wires after only replacing one side (driver’s side is going on soon).


    I will be back for sets on my E31 projects for sure!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  25. #25
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    11/88 E32 750iL+98 E36M3
    @asianvenom: spark plug wire set and 2 ignition wires for E38 750IL shipped to Tracy, CA
    @Luis, 1 set ignition wires for M70 shipped to Montevideo, Uruguay
    @Samir, 1 set ignition wires for E31 850 with M73 engine shipped to Pickering, Ontario
    @Arian, 1 set ignition wires for M73 shipped to Hamburg, NY
    @Jackson: 1 set for 01/1990 E32 750iL shipped to Carrington, NSW, Australia
    Last edited by shogun; 06-21-2022 at 10:48 PM. Reason: shipping info merged
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

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