I'd be a bit wary of trying to turn the engine over before you know if the timing is out. You might just end up bending some valves which were not bent in the first place. Ross knows a good trick with cigar smoke to determine if valves which appear to be closed are not because they are bent. Try to find what is blocking the engine first and work from there?
https://ibb.co/jnd9kp
https://ibb.co/joBjJ9
Little update, this darn e torx does not want to cooperate. Just ordered some e torx wrenches, because the socket hasn't been working for me. Any tips on this one? (Yes I see the other bolt hiding at the very top, but I don't even want to think about it right now)
12 point 11mm wrench should work.
demet
Little update, bought a gearhead e torx ratcheting wrench. Was not easy, but by God I got both those bolts out. Would you guys believe me if I told you that I got all the bolts out of the transmission without moving it an inch? No lowering the tail end of the transmission required (thin hands mandatory). My hands hurt, but I can vouch for this tool!
Yet another question, one this time I know the answer to but don’t want to deal with.
So I got my “new” motor all buttoned up, new gaskets everywhere I could, new 4 pintle injectors, cleaned the top of the valves, cleaned the intake ports, painted the intake/valve cover. Did a lot of stuff basically. Now when I took off the upper timing cover to put in new gaskets/ inspect the timing chain, to my surprise two things have happened
1. The cam sprocket had I bolt missing, and the other very loose. Don’t know how that happened as those bolts won’t even budge on my old motor.
2. The timing chain guide (the plastic piece opposite to the tensioner) is MIA. I found what was left of it in the oil pan, along with a lot of sludge
My question is how important is the plastic timing chain guide, considering that side of the chain is always under tension?
I have already put in a new tensioner w/ spring, and filled it with oil and bled it. The drivers side of the timing chain (the part that runs along the rubber/metal guide) can barely move at all, the tensioner is working well. I know the answer is probably “BMW wouldn’t spend money putting a piece in there for no reason”, but perhaps the plastic guide is to compensate for slack produced by a worn old tensioner?
Even if if the answer is replace it, could this “new” motor already be toast? The shop ran a compression test, and all figures came back good, but I have yet to run the motor myself. I would rather know now, as I have a 6 month warranty on it, then later when I throw it in the car and have to take it right back out. Let me know what you guys think.
I'd be having a look at the bearings if this engine is sludged up. Is the cam worn?
The missing bolt went somewhere you'd think. The timing chain guide, as you suspect, is there for a reason.
Who sold you this chunk of shit?
If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue
From what I can tell everything looks clean up top. Still wondering about that missing bolt aswell, it’s not from the 4 bolts holding the cam sprocket on, but actually the two behind it. Not sure of exact function.
Got the engine from a seemingly respectable parts place here in California, but they did say they didn’t know the mileage/haven’t done an inspection. My warranty covers anything but overheating. Engine cost me $450. I looked up the mileage info from the vin on he block, 245,xxx last reported.
https://ibb.co/haVDv9
This is what is in my old engine's oil pan. Copper means bearings, yeah? What could have done this? Forgot to take a pic, but the oil pump in that engine has no round piece on the bottom, so someone was in there at some point.
Bumping my thread once again with a status report, and get this: MORE QUESTIONS haha
So I got my new old engine in, everything as buttoned up as I could tell, crank the car to fire and....
It fired right up! Very happy, thrilled actually, that the car is running. Sounds healthly too. But, it's not 100% quite yet. Two concerns:
Leaking fuel from somewhere, heres what I changed with the new motor. 19# Bosch Design 3, rebuilt with new orings of course (BMW oem o rings, which I feel like an absolute dunce for buying, but its oem) and a newish looking FPR (its painted black, if that help identify age), came with the motor. Now I have heard that some people go to the 3.5 bar regulator from a Porsche 944 when they go to the 19# injectors? Don’t know if that would cause a problem or not. Also if I put the input and return lines on incorrectly, the car would run at all correct? Doesn’t make sense to me why it is leaking, so excuse the stupid questions. Luckily out of all of this, there is only so many places where fuel goes into the motor, so I’m bound the find the problem.
Problem number two is that the car idles high (I’ll try cleaning the ICV), and then after starting begins to rev up on its own slowly. Could any potential vacuum leaks be to blame? I haven’t run the motor for longer than probably 10-15 seconds because of those two problems, so hopefully nothing else is hiding waiting to surprise me. Don’t even know how it drives yet. But I’m closer than ever!
Thanks for all the help so far, very excited to get back on the road.
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