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Thread: What do you guys think is the best color?

  1. #26
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    Progress! I got these sent to me yesterday. The arrangement I have with the shop is he sends his guys to work on it as they get slow so this is taking a bit longer. That's giving me the chance to source and collect some parts. He's got the guys started but as you can see there are still a few parts to remove like some trim, door handles, etc.. But at least we have some progress!

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    Last edited by espoe; 08-29-2018 at 07:20 AM.

  2. #27
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    A few more I got today










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  3. #28
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    How is this coming along? Did you decide on a color yet? My vote is for Malachitgrun Metallic 205. I think that's what I'll go with when I finish the body work on my 745i.

  4. #29
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    Just got back from a work trip out of the country. I’m going by the body shop tomorrow. Haven’t decided yet but I would like a lighter color. I love the white one with the Alpina or Hartge wheels and the stripes that you see here and there.

    The engine is not out so the engine compartment being black keeps messing with my head. I’ll have to decide soon though.


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  5. #30
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    Not repainting the engine bay for a color change when you had the rest of the car stripped down to metal would be a mistake. Especially if you repaint the rest of the car a light color. This would be the time to get the engine bay painted too.
    Steve H.

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by BONDOSPECIAL View Post
    Not repainting the engine bay for a color change when you had the rest of the car stripped down to metal would be a mistake. Especially if you repaint the rest of the car a light color. This would be the time to get the engine bay painted too.
    I totally agree, it’s just another layer of cost and opens a few cans of worms. However I never really asked what it would cost as I am assuming that means getting the engine out, and all the parts off the fender well, wiring etc.

    Any ideas on cost or other ways to attack it?


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  7. #32
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    I have heard of people having engine bays painted by having the body shop scuff what they could get to and wrapping tin foil around ac lines and the like. I would never do this on a restoration-type build. I have seen (and owned) too many cars where previous owners' body shops missed scuffing areas and paint starting losing adhesion years later. On the car in my sig that I just bought, someone had a decent quality scuff and shoot paint job done but for some reason, the body shop did not scuff down into the body line across the tops of doors and fenders, and the paint has lifted in this area. I am guessing they ran a DA sander flat across the body line and did not either hand sand or use scuff gel to get in the depression.
    Steve H.

  8. #33
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    What do you guys think is the best color?

    Actually you just pointed out something I hadn’t yet considered. The previous paint job had some overspray and other things in the engine bay already. I’ll have to take another look to see how that effects thing since some of that may be peeling up already.

    I’m also realizing both sides of the hood will get painted and the nose piece. Where does the dividing line makes sense? I’ll have to go look at it again tomorrow. Trying to avoid a completely ridiculous overspend but I’m already too late on that one I guess


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    Last edited by espoe; 09-16-2018 at 02:53 PM.

  9. #34
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    I love your project, it is coming along nicely.

    I'll toss in my two cents for whatever it's worth to you...

    Pulling the engine out and taking the front end apart to paint everything is a ton of work. You could easily have the front end panels painted off the car so the engine bay doesn't need to be sprayed at this time. This is what I would do If I did my 745 over again.

    If you have enough cash and patience then have them pull the engine out and spray the bay at the same time. In my opinion this is opening a can of worms and could be done later. Things like fuel hoses and oil leaks and whatever else needs to be done to the engine could be done at this time in the future.

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by DevInAz View Post
    I love your project, it is coming along nicely.

    I'll toss in my two cents for whatever it's worth to you...

    Pulling the engine out and taking the front end apart to paint everything is a ton of work. You could easily have the front end panels painted off the car so the engine bay doesn't need to be sprayed at this time. This is what I would do If I did my 745 over again.

    If you have enough cash and patience then have them pull the engine out and spray the bay at the same time. In my opinion this is opening a can of worms and could be done later. Things like fuel hoses and oil leaks and whatever else needs to be done to the engine could be done at this time in the future.
    Thank Devin.

    Already changed the fuel hoses, fixed any leaks, and it had it running good along with the a/c working, all hoses replaced etc but no matter it would still be another hole to go down because I know how I am. I’m already down a cave much less a rabbit hole. Another is such is I would likely have to move the car to another place to take out the engine and tranny, and all the other parts, then back to the paint shop,

    I actually have another one in my driveway that I started to work on years ago but my job took me elsewhere so it has sat covered for about 5 years. As I was taking a few parts off of it for this car I realized that one is in excellent physical shape, Executive Buffalo that’s in 90% shape, carpet good etc.. So for that one I’ll pull the engine and tranny, make them beautiful. Give the engine a boost and a megasquirt or something. And just go through it and give its original color.

    For this one I’ll make the call that makes the most sense. For example white exterior with a black under hood along the fenders might actually work if cut in properly. I still need to pay the paint guy a visit to talk about all this. I still haven’t decided a color yet.

    I see you shadowlined your trim, I am looking at options for mine as it’s pretty cloudy. Did you look into anything else?


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  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by espoe View Post
    Thank Devin.


    I see you shadowlined your trim, I am looking at options for mine as it’s pretty cloudy. Did you look into anything else?


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    I'm not sure what you mean, did I look into anything else?


    I did have all my trim painted black, and I wish it was done much better. As a few years have passed my trim is starting to chip all over the place. By the time my car is done I think i'll have to have it painted again... The chipping is on all the trim and on parts of the body also. Someone told me a year or so ago that all of the trim I had painted should have been dipped to remove a few layers before the painting was done.

  12. #37
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    What do you guys think is the best color?

    Quote Originally Posted by DevInAz View Post
    I'm not sure what you mean, did I look into anything else? .


    I was looking to see if you had considered other options to shadowline for the trim like chrome powder coating, vinyl wrap in chrome or another color, etc. I looked at new trim and it was pricey, around $1500.00 Give or take.




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    Last edited by espoe; 09-22-2018 at 02:13 PM.

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by espoe View Post
    I was looking to see if you had considered other options to shadowline for the trim like chrome powder coating, vinyl wrap in chrome or another color, etc. I looked at new trim and it was pricey, around $1500.00 Give or take.

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    ohh, sorry. Yes I have looked into everything that I know of:

    1. The wrap shops I've talked to said it won't last out here because of our UV index levels. They said it would only last a year or two... I've never wrapped anything so i'm going on what they said. I did find it interesting that 3 different shops all said the same thing. Maybe they all use the same products? I asked about black only.
    2. We don't have any anodizing here in this state and I didn't want to send all my stuff to California although I think this would be the best option. I have done some research on anodizing myself and there are a ton of videos on how to do this on youtube. I think i'm going to do this next.
    3. I don't want chrome and California is our closest option.
    4. Painting doesn't seem to last although maybe the guys I paid didn't prep it correctly and did a quick spray. I don't think i'll try this route again.
    5. I have a friend that owns a powder coat shop and he didn't think it would turn out good. After looking at the trims strips he was thinking its some kind of cast aluminum and mentioned that it might be really dirty and we might not get a good even coating over everything after it everything gets put in the oven and cooked. He said cast aluminum likes to outgas and the temps need to be watched really close. Also if it doesn't come out perfect to have these parts media blasted to try again would turn into a pain. I didn't do this option because it sounded like it was going to take awhile and painting it sounds so easy.

    Those are the only options I know of. Once this car is running i'll probably go the anodizing route on my own. I love the black trim as I think it adds a modern touch to a older classic looking car.

  14. #39
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    Thumbs up

    If you pull the engine and trans, may as well ship it to me. I am going to build two 091 EHs here this year before Christmas! One is for sure a 22/24 hybrid.
    I make E23 parts.
    09/1983 745i (stolen spring '13 around Houston, TX Achatgruen on nutria buffalo. 8481080)
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    Ford, MB, and GM round out the pack.



  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by DevInAz View Post
    ohh, sorry. Yes I have looked into everything that I know of:

    1. The wrap shops I've talked to said it won't last out here because of our UV index levels. They said it would only last a year or two... I've never wrapped anything so i'm going on what they said. I did find it interesting that 3 different shops all said the same thing. Maybe they all use the same products? I asked about black only.
    2. We don't have any anodizing here in this state and I........
    I like the black trim on some of.colors. The Sahara or Zoebel Braun’s look good with black IMHO. I can’t imagine the paint would stick well with the anodizing still on. Not sure how they deal with that but I will check in to it.

    I did already order a small roll of chrome vinyl to check it out. I would think our UV issues aren’t as bad as yours but I do live in New Orleans so it’s not like that’s much of a break.


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  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hit Man X View Post
    If you pull the engine and trans, may as well ship it to me. I am going to build two 091 EHs here this year before Christmas! One is for sure a 22/24 hybrid.
    I will be calling you. Might have a solution for your Bahama car.


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  17. #42
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    http://autobodystore.com/forum/showt...-aluminum-trim

    This thread claims that anodizing can be stripped from trim with Lye. If you strip the weathered anodizing from aluminum trim, a good body shop will know what primer to use to make paint adhere to it. I think the old school of thought in painting aluminum was to use etching primer (phosphoric etchant) or zinc chromate primer. I believe modern direct-to-metal epoxy primers can be used over clean aluminum. Guessing this is what a body shop would probably use.
    Steve H.

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by BONDOSPECIAL View Post
    http://autobodystore.com/forum/showt...-aluminum-trim

    This thread claims that anodizing can be stripped from trim with Lye. If you strip the weathered anodizing from aluminum trim, a good body shop will know what primer to use to make paint adhere to it. I think the old school of thought in painting aluminum was to use etching primer (phosphoric etchant) or zinc chromate primer. I believe modern direct-to-metal epoxy primers can be used over clean aluminum. Guessing this is what a body shop would probably use.
    This is very interesting, thanks for sharing! I'll do some reading up on this right now.

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by BONDOSPECIAL View Post
    http://autobodystore.com/forum/showt...-aluminum-trim

    This thread claims that anodizing can be stripped from trim with Lye. If you strip the weathered anodizing from aluminum trim, a good body shop will know what primer to use to make paint adhere to it. I think the old school of thought in painting aluminum was to use etching primer (phosphoric etchant) or zinc chromate primer. I believe modern direct-to-metal epoxy primers can be used over clean aluminum. Guessing this is what a body shop would probably use.
    Well I have a can of Easy Off and some trim pieces; sounds like an experiment coming up.


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  20. #45
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    Hey CROUGHTONE32,
    I live in South Florida and will be repainting my '88 M3 the same color. What paint shop did you use for your car? Any other members who want to give me some shop recommendations would be appreciated.
    Thanks,

    Dan
    djm1450

  21. #46
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    What do you guys think is the best color?

    Progress. Ready for paint to start by Friday or Monday. Decided Azurite black was the way to go for several reasons. I was dead set against black for the reasons I said previously. But this one is a very interesting color, looks different in different lighting, and is black enough a color to make any of the existing black under the hood stuff that couldn’t be reached without me pulling the engine, make sense.

    I saw it on an M5 in the showroom yesterday and thought it was absolutely amazing. Carbon black was a close second so it ends up that despite my original intention, I’m going with a black color after all.















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    Last edited by espoe; 11-14-2018 at 10:43 PM.

  22. #47
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    My 550i is carbon black. It looks blue in the sunlight. Azurite is more metallic, but similar, right?

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    Last edited by motohunter4; 11-15-2018 at 06:25 PM.

  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by motohunter4 View Post
    My 550i is carbon black. It looks blue in the sunlight. Azurite is more metallic, but similar, right?

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    YOu are correct. The Azurite has a lot more blue in it though whereas the Carbon black has some blue but more of silver in it. The blue it gives off is a bit more subtle.

    Both look amazing and believe me, I have gone back and forth between the two and would be thrilled with either one.


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  24. #49
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    So an update on the chrome trim. I have looked into everything without a great solution. Wrapping the trim with chrome vinyl wrap will work for while but eventually will fade with the sun or get chipped up. NOt to mention a few of the pieces at the top of the door have a few different levels and are not just smooth.

    The next choice is to chrome powder coat it. Obviously it all has to be off the car, coated and put in the oven. there are a few pieces attached to plastic trim and I am not sure about that holding up in the oven. The chrome needs to get to 400 degrees

    After that comes shadow lining, which I am ok with, but what to do with the door handles? Leave chrome or paint the same color as the car? Also do I paint the trim a flat black and then a glossy clear, or a glossy black with a flat clear. I also checked on how they do it and besides the sanding of the trim, there is a bonding agent they use the help the paint adhere to the trim. R

    New Chrome trim is available for the front windshield, and only one of the pieces is available for the rear windshield. The other chrome pieces are the same. A couple are available others not. So replacing it with new is not an option.

    So for this car and for future paint jobs, this will be an issue along with trunk gaskets being NLA.


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  25. #50
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    I'm not sure how the plastic trim would come off the A pillar and C pillar pieces, but the plastic trim is just glued on the center sections. I've had several pieces come off and it is just fitted into the slot and glued on with some type of contact cement. I used a product called PLIO-BOND to reattach and it is firmly attached. It is an industrial strength contact cement. works great on gluing rubber gaskets back together; think the 'D' gasket on the on-body door seals, trunk gaskets, etc.

    If you could get the plastic off, then the chrome powder coat may be the way to go.

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