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Thread: Cool: Adding OBD2 connector to European E36, and logging all (MS41/M52) DME values

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    1997 BMW E36 323i

    Cool: Adding OBD2 connector to European E36, and logging all (MS41/M52) DME values

    I just found this great video:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NC2kJDoWTqg

    As European E36 cars never have the OBD2 connector, and the round 20-pin connector in the engine bay is sensitive to electromagnetic noise from the coils firing, this guy added a custom OBD2 interface to his E36. No more coil interference (currently, my INPA setup only works with engine off, due to this interference.. could probably be fixed by buying a better shielded interface cable though).

    Next, he uses a special program, called 'testo' to be able to log all engine/DME data.
    At least it works with the MS41 DME used in the M52 engines. But probably also other engines.

    I'll give it a try soon.
    Here you can find some more details on 'testo': http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ime-graph-view

    And then, with the MS41 DME you can tune the engine/DME yourself. Adjust idle RPM, disable EWS, adjust spark timing, adjust injector times, adjust warm-up cycle enrichment, etc, etc..
    Really cool stuff.

    Here are many more videos on the subject: https://www.youtube.com/user/sipasema/videos
    Search for the videos with "how to tune ms41" in the subject.

    The logging is a really great addition. Say, for example, your engine stumbles at a certain load/rpm range. With INPA you can be lucky, but the data is updates so slowly and not logged it's very difficult to find the cause. By logging all data, you have a lot better chance of discovering what's going wrong in the specific load/rpm range.
    Last edited by ed323i; 07-09-2018 at 01:20 PM.


    1997 E36 BMW 323i
    (European) 275k km (171k miles), with following small mods:

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    1997 328i
    You might be due for a new set of coils if your getting interference. I recently replaced my set of coils, I was getting cam sensor codes and tried three different brand sensors all of which were brand new. Put a new set of coils with the third sensor and the code went away. The coils had "treeing" on them which is dielectric break down.
    Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
    Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    OK.. Interesting..
    A coincidence, I bought a set of 6 new coils for only 12.50 euro a piece from the brand Stark (these: https://www.autodoc.es/stark/7587770 ). I hope they'll arrive this week and I hope they are good. I'll let you know if it resolved it.. Also, I have some cold misfires, while compression in all 6 cylinders is perfect at 11.0 bar +/- 0.2 bar. So you might be right I have a problem with the coils.


    1997 E36 BMW 323i
    (European) 275k km (171k miles), with following small mods:

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    1995 BMW 328
    I have never shielded the ADS interfaces built from the plans on here and they work fine.
    No warranty of any kind implied or given and no liability for any loss, damage or injury, no matter how incurred accepted.

  5. #5
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    They are a little sneaky with the pictures for those coils. The first picture shows the original design, which should be a high quality, but then you see the secondary pictures they have the rounded bottom that is the newer design. Just about all aftermarket coils have that rounded bottom design, they should be fine but how long the epoxy resin they used will last depends on the quality of that resin. I got my coils off ebay for just $40 for the set of 6! They have yellow resin so I think that's why the price was a little lower

    Quote Originally Posted by ed323i View Post
    OK.. Interesting..
    A coincidence, I bought a set of 6 new coils for only 12.50 euro a piece from the brand Stark (these: https://www.autodoc.es/stark/7587770 ). I hope they'll arrive this week and I hope they are good. I'll let you know if it resolved it.. Also, I have some cold misfires, while compression in all 6 cylinders is perfect at 11.0 bar +/- 0.2 bar. So you might be right I have a problem with the coils.
    Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
    Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Thanks for the feedback. Amazing price, 6 for $40.. You don't even buy one stock coil for that price.

    I think they'll be sending me the newer design coils. On some other language sites of the same retailer I only saw the round bottom photos..
    I'll let you know which one they sent me and if they improved the cold misfires and the interference problems with INPA. Would be great to be able to log while driving, and the fine-tune the tune I already have installed (bought complete DME with 190HP/260Nm 323i tune pre-installed) a bit, and see if it has weak spots (for example: too aggressive ignition advance, triggering knock sensor, or lean or rich spots in the map)..

    I really liked tuning my ex-528i M30B28 with Megasquirt (major improvement, a lot faster and much better pedal response due to deleted AFM and added MAP sensor and deleted distributor and added wasted spark semi-sequential ignition), so I know I'll have fun being able to do it now with the stock MS41 DME.. Alas, no wideband O2 sensor (yet) to really know what you're doing, but, as the MS41 is more advanced than Megasquirt (at least the MS2 I had), the logs will show where the DME interferes with the values in the fuel and ignition map (adaptation values and knock sensor feedback, the latter for every load/rpm-sector in the table). I already have a license for Tunerstudio, so that's nice too (a great tuning tool, that can be used with the 'testo' log files, I think, update: probably not).
    Last edited by ed323i; 07-10-2018 at 09:48 PM.


    1997 E36 BMW 323i
    (European) 275k km (171k miles), with following small mods:

  7. #7
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    Received the coils today. They have the new round design. They feel okay and look okay, but after installing them, I noticed the metal lock-bracket wasn't designed very well. I first thought I had to return them as they just wouldn't lock in place, but upon closer inspection I decided to apply a lot of force and they snapped in place.. Doesn't feel like German engineering (not even testing the lock-bracket on a real connector is a bit sad, and not something you'd expect from German engineers).

    After applying a lot of force on all 6 coils, I started the cold engine, and, alas the cold misfire was there immediately.
    I then turned off the engine, unlocked the metal brackets, but kept connectors connected. Then restarted engine and disconnected the coil connectors one at a time. Every disconnected coil caused even more misfires, so I think the problem of the misfires isn't related to the coils, as the symptoms are exactly identical to how it was with the old coils (also did the test of disconnecting the coils 1 at a time, with same symptoms).

    Hopefully, I can now run INPA (and 'testo') without connection losses and perhaps see what's going wrong at the cold start.. Alas, no O2 sensor feedback at the cold start, so a bit difficult. I'm now thinking of (an) imbalanced or leaking injector(s). I replaced all rubber boots, all vacuum hoses, new CCV + hoses, compression test was perfect (11.0 bar all 6 with negligible 0.2 bar deviations).. I'll soon do a smoke test, just to be sure there are no leaks. It also already has another DME (as I installed one that was pre-chipped), which didn't change the symptoms at all.

    It has serious misfires when cold, with engine stumbling. Once warm it sounds and feels quite okay, but there is still this little unbalance that just shouldn't be there. I know how smooth it should run, having owned several M50 BMWs before, and I think the M52 should be even smoother. Additive adaption values are at +/- -13 for both banks, which equals to 0.13ms, so can be ignored I think, also according to BMW guidelines. Also those adaptation values seem to indicate there is no problem with vacuum leaks (in which case it should register relatively large positive additive values)..

    Tomorrow I'll try the INPA laptop and see if it works with the engine running. Would be great!
    Last edited by ed323i; 07-11-2018 at 07:09 PM.


    1997 E36 BMW 323i
    (European) 275k km (171k miles), with following small mods:

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    The coils are cheap chinese knockoffs for that price, I wouldn't expect much.
    '94 325i Sedan, Arctic Gray: UUC LTW FW, EVO 3 and DSSR, +.020 Maxsil pistons, ASC delete, Eibach shocks/springs, 16" contour reps 238k
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    '89 325i Vert, Alpine White: 5spd swapped. Sold
    '04 Toyota Sienna XLE Limited AWD, In progress swapping to M50/G250, http://www.wibimmers.com/board/index...nna-25i-build/
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    '85 Toyota LandCruiser: Lifted, gas hog. 205k

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by jc43089 View Post
    The coils are cheap chinese knockoffs for that price, I wouldn't expect much.
    I'm afraid you might be right.. Time will tell. On the other hand, if, somehow, the Germans would be able to enforce good quality controls, then, *theoretically* it might be good quality, even if produced in China for very low prices. The very poorly fitting metal brackets are a sign that that's not the case thought.. I would be ashamed if I was selling these coils.

    Haven't had the time to do some more tests (misfires, and INPA with running engine).. Tomorrow probably.


    1997 E36 BMW 323i
    (European) 275k km (171k miles), with following small mods:

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Seems to be running better with the new coils, especially when cold.. Haven't felt bad misfires the last few short, and cold engine, trips. Will check adaptation figures soon if they moved due to the new coils. And then also check if INPA will work with engine on. Oh, yeah, also spotted one of the old long rubber boots that go in between the coil and the spark plug was damaged where it touches the spark plug. So, that could have caused my misfires.. The boots of the new coils seem fine, so that's an upgrade in itself. Also noticed my old coils were 5x Bosch and 1x the more modern brand.. Bosches must be quite old by now and I think they had reliability issues.

    Also ordered another USB OBD2 adapter cable, as mine has the wrong chipset to work properly with EDIBAS/INPA. Will arrive in a few weeks, but that cable should improve the connection a lot by itself.


    1997 E36 BMW 323i
    (European) 275k km (171k miles), with following small mods:

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by ed323i View Post
    Received the coils today. They have the new round design. They feel okay and look okay, but after installing them, I noticed the metal lock-bracket wasn't designed very well. I first thought I had to return them as they just wouldn't lock in place, but upon closer inspection I decided to apply a lot of force and they snapped in place.. Doesn't feel like German engineering (not even testing the lock-bracket on a real connector is a bit sad, and not something you'd expect from German engineers).

    After applying a lot of force on all 6 coils, I started the cold engine, and, alas the cold misfire was there immediately.
    I then turned off the engine, unlocked the metal brackets, but kept connectors connected. Then restarted engine and disconnected the coil connectors one at a time. Every disconnected coil caused even more misfires, so I think the problem of the misfires isn't related to the coils, as the symptoms are exactly identical to how it was with the old coils (also did the test of disconnecting the coils 1 at a time, with same symptoms).

    Hopefully, I can now run INPA (and 'testo') without connection losses and perhaps see what's going wrong at the cold start.. Alas, no O2 sensor feedback at the cold start, so a bit difficult. I'm now thinking of (an) imbalanced or leaking injector(s). I replaced all rubber boots, all vacuum hoses, new CCV + hoses, compression test was perfect (11.0 bar all 6 with negligible 0.2 bar deviations).. I'll soon do a smoke test, just to be sure there are no leaks. It also already has another DME (as I installed one that was pre-chipped), which didn't change the symptoms at all.

    It has serious misfires when cold, with engine stumbling. Once warm it sounds and feels quite okay, but there is still this little unbalance that just shouldn't be there. I know how smooth it should run, having owned several M50 BMWs before, and I think the M52 should be even smoother. Additive adaption values are at +/- -13 for both banks, which equals to 0.13ms, so can be ignored I think, also according to BMW guidelines. Also those adaptation values seem to indicate there is no problem with vacuum leaks (in which case it should register relatively large positive additive values)..

    Tomorrow I'll try the INPA laptop and see if it works with the engine running. Would be great!
    I bought an Ebay coil and the locking mechanism has the same issue as yours. The seller offered a replacement and to notify the manufacturer. The tab didn't want to fit in the slot. It does work fine however. I know you're not in the states but this is the one I bought. https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-1998-BM...item48a8a3d271
    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    Last edited by jmo69; 07-18-2018 at 07:19 PM.

    Gave away my BMWs, driving a VW and an Audi now.

  12. #12
    Join Date
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    1997 BMW E36 323i
    Good news: I finally had time to use the new FTDI232 USB OBD2 cable. I had to adjust the obd.ini to set it to COM1, and after that it works flawlessly. While showing live data I can now start the engine, and no connection errors whatsoever. Even with the engine off, a major improvement compared to the CH340 chipset USB OBD2 cable I had before. The CH340 doesn't work nicely with INPA at all and gives connection errors all the time, and often needs complete computer resets to get it working again.

    So, I'm happy. It cost 10 or 15 dollar, so it was money well spent.

    I immediately gave the live data a look with the engine on. After resetting the adaptation values, the additive adaptation values quickly moved towards -30 again, both banks. I'll install the new pressure regulator soon. At higher loads (still relatively low, because tested with the car parked) I noticed the lambda correction would negate the additive adaptation values quickly with values of +10 or +20.. So, it all definitely points in the direction of the FPR not adjusting the pressure when there is vacuum in the manifold..

    Tuesday I have an appointment at the local BMW-specialized garage, at about 1-1.5 miles walking distance, do a good maintenance job on the car, including:
    * FPR
    * 4 new Bilstein B4 shocks
    * 2 new top shock bearings (or whatever they are called)
    * Meyle HD control arms
    * Stabilizer joints front
    * Outer steering joints
    * 2 new front brake discs and front pads
    * Oil refresh of engine, manual transmission and differential

    And perhaps also:
    * Electric window mechanism (scissor mechanism) of the driver side door
    * Plastic plate in the right front wheel well
    * 4 door handle seals (mine are crumbled)

    I can bring the car in the morning and pick it up in the evening.. I already bought all the parts over the last few months, so they only charge for installing everything. And they're really cheap (advantage of living in the not so rich areas of Spain). As I have no garage, and no way to pressurize the front springs, I decided to let them do all the work. I have already done it a couple of times in the past, but when I have to rent a garage and special tools, the price difference is very small.

    To finish it off it will need an alignment...

    I decided to go with the relatively soft (but stiffer than stock) Bilstein B4 shocks, because the roads are quite bad here. Lowering springs are also no option (I would have loved to put some Eibachs on), because in no time the E36 would wiggle on its floor with all four wheels in the air (very steep roads and garage entries here on the island).

    So, I'll let you know about the results once it's done.. Handling will improve a lot, because the control arm rubbers are shot, and (as a result) discs are warped. And hopefully the additive adaptation values will now move towards -5 to +5 range.

    Update: Also had a look at the live coolant temperature data with INPA, as I've installed a fan delete mod with the original thermostat and 80/88 degrees C temp switch in the radiator. The radiator has almost pure water in it. Will soon refresh it with clean distilled water, and I'll add probably even less than a liter of BMW coolant, to prevent corrosion. I think the fan delete mod works really great with pure water, because water can transfer a lot more heat than a 50% BMW coolant/water mix. It never freezes here, unless I would drive up the 3000+ meter 'Teide' volcano in winter time, which has a nice white snow top in the winter.

    Results: While idling for 15-20 minutes after a trip, I hear the low speed fan turn on a few times. Temperatures remained below 90 degrees C (86-89) all the time. So, it seems to work perfectly fine. Aux fan turns on when coolant reaches 86-88 degrees C. It was quite hot today, 28 degrees C. So, at idle, it seems there is a 2-3 degrees gap between what the aux fan allows the coolant temperature to be and the opening point of the thermostat. But it doesn't seem to harm anything, and adds a little safety buffer. Very happy with the fan delete mod.
    Last edited by ed323i; 08-28-2018 at 08:38 PM.


    1997 E36 BMW 323i
    (European) 275k km (171k miles), with following small mods:

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