Just don't overtighten hose clips, it cuts the pipes
No warranty of any kind implied or given and no liability for any loss, damage or injury, no matter how incurred accepted.
You are making me nervous, i thightened them as far as they would go.. or actually, as far as when the screwdriver started slipping out and a little more. I thought that was the function of flat screw drivers/screws, to limit the torque you can give it. The hose clamp screws have a bit wide opening so the slip out quite easily (new ones, oem).
Did this happen to you?
Would it help to loosen them slightly or has the clamp already made to much of a groove in the rubber so i would cause a leak because the rubber cant stretch back to a larger size?
I found this:
https://www.turbodieselregister.com/...clamps.223924/
"
The proper torque for screw type hose clamps is to tighten them until the rubber outer shell protrudes through the screw slot just enough to be even with the outside of the clamp. Any further is considered too tight and can cut into the hose, actually causing the hose to be loose after several heat cycles. If the hose is cut and has rubber sticking through the clamp, the hose should have the bad part removed and reinstalled. If not possible to shorten the hose, it needs to be replaced.
"
BTW, i basically went on the feeling that im tightening them on the plastic radiator mounts, as to not break them
Last edited by klaas; 07-18-2018 at 02:27 PM.
Yup I've done it a couple of times in the last 40 years...….oops
No warranty of any kind implied or given and no liability for any loss, damage or injury, no matter how incurred accepted.
And you didnt thighten the clamps with an impact gun?
Just joking, how did you tighten them, did you put pressure on the screwdriver so it wouldnt slip out and could torque it more?
Did you use OEM clamps?
Ow, and did it cut the hose right away, after a few days, or after months?
Last edited by klaas; 07-18-2018 at 02:32 PM.
I think you'll be fine.. Like you say, a screwdriver limits the torque quite a bit. And you were aware that the tube below it is made of plastic. So unless you really strained yourself I think it's OK.. Be careful with a socket/key, because then there is 'leverage' (not sure if that's the right word) and you can do serious harm then. Also with the spark plugs. Lots of people over-torque those.
1997 E36 BMW 323i (European) 275k km (171k miles), with following small mods:
- Chip tuned DME (190HP/257Nm); 328i dual pipe exhaust (plug&play); Meyle HD control arms, Bilstein B4 shocks
- Fan delete mod: Stock 92C thermostat, 80/88C temp. switch, 80/20% water/coolant; INPA says temps 100% OK
- Throttle body coolant hose delete mod; Comprehensive ASC Delete option list; Solved: -30 additive adaptation values
You mean with a rachet?
I dont know the word in english exactly, but it seems to be called this officially, moment arm:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque#Moment_arm_formula
Ha it seems to be called Moment just like in dutch.
I didnt strain myself, ive learned that lesson long ago, i even broke of a heater knob once at home by trying to close it to much
Btw, the old hoses had deep grooves from the clamps in it, as deep as that the metal of the clamps is deeper in the rubber then the outer edge of the rubber, no signs of any tearing or cutting. Could be from expansion of the rubber over time though.
Last edited by klaas; 07-18-2018 at 04:14 PM.
Were there any grill blanks in the front bumper to remove on your car to let more air to the lower half?
No warranty of any kind implied or given and no liability for any loss, damage or injury, no matter how incurred accepted.
Well you have a bigger radiator so may as well let the air through it.
328 Aircon car, big rad, no blanks in lower centre grills
325 non-aircon car, small rad, blanks in bumper lower centre grills.
Your cowling is already small so let the air in the bumper, if the nose grill are ducting is in place it won't get any air
No warranty of any kind implied or given and no liability for any loss, damage or injury, no matter how incurred accepted.
Or, you can take it out during the summer, and reinstall it during winter.
Modern BMWs have a grill flap that automatically closes when the cooling isn't needed, to improve air resistance (Cw value) and economy, and slightly faster warm-up time.
1997 E36 BMW 323i (European) 275k km (171k miles), with following small mods:
- Chip tuned DME (190HP/257Nm); 328i dual pipe exhaust (plug&play); Meyle HD control arms, Bilstein B4 shocks
- Fan delete mod: Stock 92C thermostat, 80/88C temp. switch, 80/20% water/coolant; INPA says temps 100% OK
- Throttle body coolant hose delete mod; Comprehensive ASC Delete option list; Solved: -30 additive adaptation values
I actually got a quote for the job from an indy garage excluding the idler/tensioner pulleys. Im not sure how much they would charge for it but i still must have saved around 200 euro's doing it myself. So thats not to bad. Main reason for this is that the parts were about 20-30 euros per part cheaper at AutoDoc! And i got the choice of which brands i used, and im pretty sure they would not use the brands i picked.
No warranty of any kind implied or given and no liability for any loss, damage or injury, no matter how incurred accepted.
I agree.. Not worth it.. You won't be able to measure the difference, unless using a laboratory setup.. When it's really cold, then it might be a few seconds or in really bad conditions perhaps even a minute.. The airflow to the outer block at minus 20 degrees C (it very rarely gets that cold in the Netherlands), and the little bit of heat/cold transmitted through the not-moving coolant (there is still a coolant connection between block and radiator, even with thermostat shut). And the modern BMW's close the entire grill instead of just a little portion of it, and even then it's difficult to measure except for the Cw value which improves a little.
actually got a quote for the job from an indy garage excluding the idler/tensioner pulleys. Im not sure how much they would charge for it but i still must have saved around 200 euro's doing it myself. So thats not to bad. Main reason for this is that the parts were about 20-30 euros per part cheaper at AutoDoc! And i got the choice of which brands i used, and im pretty sure they would not use the brands i picked.
I think, at the Ekris dealer they charged close to 120 euro per hour (inc VAT), and they charge the official work times quoted by BMW, unless the job takes longer, then they charge even more. If it takes less time, they will charge the BMW quoted time anyways. So, with a 350 euro radiator, and the other parts, I think you'd pass the 1000 euro ;-) ..
1997 E36 BMW 323i (European) 275k km (171k miles), with following small mods:
- Chip tuned DME (190HP/257Nm); 328i dual pipe exhaust (plug&play); Meyle HD control arms, Bilstein B4 shocks
- Fan delete mod: Stock 92C thermostat, 80/88C temp. switch, 80/20% water/coolant; INPA says temps 100% OK
- Throttle body coolant hose delete mod; Comprehensive ASC Delete option list; Solved: -30 additive adaptation values
You mean with a rachet?
I use a ratchet like this and sockets that fit the hex fittings on the clamps. Usually 6mm or 8mm.
This set of sockets works great with a 15 cm extension. I put a fair amount of force on it and haven't cut or broken anything yet.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Last edited by jmo69; 07-19-2018 at 07:04 PM.
I actually think its more the clamps then the torque.
Clamps with rolled up edges prevent cutting. Here some kind of blogpost from a clamp ocd person:
https://motoiq.com/wrench-tips-28-qu...mps-for-cheap/
The oem bmw hose clamps have rolled edges.
Last edited by klaas; 07-19-2018 at 08:31 PM.
Is there such a thing as a maximum (outside) temperature rating for radiators ? From what kind of temps is for example a tropical version necessary?
Im asking this because we have a heat wave here and temps will get upto 35+ degrees (Celcius).
My 328is fine on the aircon rad and we're having the same heat wave and I haven't got the aircon auxiliary fan either because it burnt out.
Also I coded out the 20 odd degree C dead spot in the centre of the temp gauge so mine reads properly so I do see minor needle variations
No warranty of any kind implied or given and no liability for any loss, damage or injury, no matter how incurred accepted.
No, you should be perfectly fine, with the new viscous fan, new radiator, and, if I remember correctly, you don't have A/C, so no A/C radiator emitting a lot of extra heat AND blocking the air flow to the normal radiator.
If you want to be extra sure, just install the low-temp temperature switch in the radiator. Then the aux fan (although I know think you don't even have one, because you have no A/C) will turn on a lot earlier and help with the cooling.
The worst conditions will be at like 16.00 hours, when the sun has been heating up the road, and you've been driving under high load for some time, and then you hit a traffic jam.. The air just above the road will probably be close to 50 degrees C or even more, so your cooling system will have to unload the built-up heat in the engine (which got there while driving under high load), only using very hot air.. But, not to worry, BMW designed the system to work in very extreme conditions. I once saw a documentary on how they tested, I believe, the E31 8-series.. Suffice to say, it's German engineering.. Having said that, the cooling system of the E36 and many more BMWs of that period were not designed very well, quite unreliable.. But with your new parts, nothing to worry about.. You have better cooling capacity than virtually every other E36 on the road (especially in the VS, I think all of them had A/C) because your car has no A/C. If somehow the engine starts to heat up too much, then you can set the cabin heater to the hottest setting and highest fan speed, and open all windows. If the temp gauge does continue to creep towards the red zone, shut the car down immediately in a safe spot to prevent damage to the head or headgasket. But again, I'm 99% certain you won't need it.
Last edited by ed323i; 07-24-2018 at 05:46 PM.
1997 E36 BMW 323i (European) 275k km (171k miles), with following small mods:
- Chip tuned DME (190HP/257Nm); 328i dual pipe exhaust (plug&play); Meyle HD control arms, Bilstein B4 shocks
- Fan delete mod: Stock 92C thermostat, 80/88C temp. switch, 80/20% water/coolant; INPA says temps 100% OK
- Throttle body coolant hose delete mod; Comprehensive ASC Delete option list; Solved: -30 additive adaptation values
I am not really sure what the 'grill blanks' are.
There are two versions of the front bumper on realoem:
This one seems to have a closed panel:
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_3892
Number 8 : 51111960279
This one seems to have a open or a closed version:
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_2104
Number 8:
Closed grid: 51118165144
Open grid (japan/australia): 51118165150
Open grid (airco,automatic,tropical): 51118165145
Do you mean remove the closed grid one?
Cant just remove it right? Could get punctures.
Or am i looking at completely the wrong thing? Can you please show me the part nr ?
- - - Updated - - -
Discovered something:
The old radiator had a plastic bottom cover which i didnt transfer to the new radiator in the hurry to get the car finished before closing time.
underradcover.JPG
On the left the old radiator, on the right the new airco radiator. There is a connector on the new radiator to click this bottom cover in.
I assume this cover is to prevent radiator punctures when rocks hit the radiator at high speed.
Threw this radiator away at the garage so cant recover it anymore, hate that!
I cant find any BMW part number for it, cant find it on realoem.
1. is this cover important?
2. can somebody tell me what the part nr is or point me to a realoem page?
Only can find this:
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=17_0958
But that doesnt seem to be the same thing
thanks!
Last edited by klaas; 07-28-2018 at 01:38 PM.
^ Not sure what you mean there, I think my ones are missing various plastics, the 328 has ducting to the radiator from the front and the fan cowling, a lot of the other underside plastics have gone walkabout in the last 23 years
No warranty of any kind implied or given and no liability for any loss, damage or injury, no matter how incurred accepted.
Bumper may have covers on the grills on some plastic melted rivet things.
No warranty of any kind implied or given and no liability for any loss, damage or injury, no matter how incurred accepted.
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