Hello,
I have a very loud whining noise coming from the rear end of my 1999 323i. It almost sounds like tire noise but much louder, and I notice a shudder at random times at any speed. I was thinking wheel bearing but I noticed a CV axle is not rotating evenly, what are your opinions? Is the uneven rotation of the CV axle normal or is it a CV joint or could the wheel bearing causing it?
First video is the shaft facing the diff, second video is the passenger side tire. Third video is drivers side, the shaft moves a bit but nothing compared to the drivers side.
Sounds a lot like a dust shield on the passenger side but I dont see any contact points with the rotor. I am going to do the brakes and rotors after I figure out what's causing this howl sound and shake. I'm putting quite a bit of force on the tires to spin them as well.
No knocking or ticking sounds, drives great otherwise.
Any insight is appreciated
Last edited by Duramax08; 07-04-2018 at 12:35 AM.
When were the wheel bearings last done?
ME:"I want to make my car faster and lighter"
THEM:" Get out and let someone else drive"
I had a bad rear bearing that went from sounding like tire noise to a howl.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_RQPipUzHSY
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Last edited by jmo69; 07-09-2018 at 05:02 PM.
Strictly based on the level of effort required to replace the wheel bearings and the age of your axles, it seems like a no brainer to do them at the same time. The only real question would be what axles to get. I see where some guys will only use OEM, I used some generic brand and they are fine so far but only have about 12K miles on them and my engine is stock. My rear wheel bearings were so loud it was unbearable to drive over 65 mph, sounded like really loud tires. They felt fine but were just really dry inside. The hardest part of the job is getting the splined axle free from the hub. A wheel bearing puller set is pretty much a necessity unless you are pulling the whole trailing arm off and using a press.
I agree. You could have a bigger mess than you plan. I have rebuilt cvs and it is not hard just messy. On my son's car I installed a set of aftermarket axles from cardone and they have held up for 6 years. New oem can be very pricey. I might have an old set laying around if you want them. Or pick yourself up a set and clean them up before you attack this. From what you are describing I would not be driving the car in that state. Best of luck with it.
ME:"I want to make my car faster and lighter"
THEM:" Get out and let someone else drive"
Yeah don't drive it!
Attn. NEWBIES: Use the search feature, 98% has already been discussed.
Click the search button, select "search single content type", select the "e36 sub forum" specifically, try the "search titles" then try the "search entire posts".
There is a guy in MD that part out e36's only. Good guy and has tons of parts. I have bought
hood
fenders
fuel tank
heat shield
steering rag joint
All in good condition good prices
Thread:https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...7#post30057257
These are what I put on my son's car 6 years back:https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...+assembly,2288
ME:"I want to make my car faster and lighter"
THEM:" Get out and let someone else drive"
There has to be some movement of the axle in and out, every time the wheel goes up and down it has to move in and out. When I did my wheel bearing I was able to push the axle in quite a ways after removing the nut. The inner joint has enough play to allow the axle to be removed from the diff and dropped out of the way.
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