WTB: 2001 740i Sport

[Twistytee]

Looking for a 2001 740i sport in very good condition. Low miles preferred but will consider higher mileage examples (<150k) with full service history including timing chain guides and usual problem areas. No accidents or stories. Prefer one of the greys or silvers (Anthracite/Stratus over black, Titanium/Black) but condition and maintenance history more important than color. Mostly focused on original cars or lightly modified ones. PM me if you’re thinking of selling or can refer me to a good candidate. Budget is flexible and commensurate with miles and condition.

[canyonrunner1]

https://jerseyshore.craigslist.org/c...623868752.html

[Twistytee]

https://jerseyshore.craigslist.org/c...623868752.html

Very nice example. Still hoping to find a low mileage ‘01 with revised lights, body colored lowers, steering wheel and widescreen nav. But tempting alternative.

[Chamberlin]

My highly tuned E38 gut tells me that the Redding, CA and the Cincinnati, OH cars are the ones I'd go for first. I'm on the same hunt as you, but I'm looking specifically for an Oxford Green over beige 2001 sub 100K car. I missed one by a few weeks last year in NorCal.

https://lasvegas.craigslist.org/cto/...603267716.html

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto...631849141.html

https://portland.craigslist.org/nco/...618737121.html

https://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto...633837532.html

https://newyork.craigslist.org/stn/c...588333388.html

https://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto...635653983.html

https://cincinnati.craigslist.org/ct...633996137.html

https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/c...633905370.html

https://louisville.craigslist.org/ct...636827362.html

https://seattle.craigslist.org/est/c...637079638.html

https://houston.craigslist.org/ctd/d...628357799.html

https://redding.craigslist.org/cto/d...636122995.html

[Twistytee]

Thanks for the links. Saw most of these but I’m also trying to focus on finding a sub 100k 2001MY, ideally with a black or tan interior. Redding one does look the best of this bunch based on photos and description. I saw a green one listed in TN not too long ago but it was an ‘00 I believe.

[Chamberlin]

Thanks for the links. Saw most of these but I’m also trying to focus on finding a sub 100k 2001MY, ideally with a black or tan interior. Redding one does look the best of this bunch based on photos and description. I saw a green one listed in TN not too long ago but it was an ‘00 I believe.

Yea it does look really nice...too bad about the grey interior (I'm not much of a grey leather fan myself). If you want to do a tan swap there's a really nice one owner 740i sport here in Tucson (see my post in the F.S. section).! I don't think there were any silver over tan cars ever made, but maybe.

[Chris V]

Mine:

https://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto/6638614897.html

Higher mileage but all the stuff has been done, plus upgrades. No stories.

[Twistytee]

Yours is exactly what I’m looking for (right color combo, tasteful mods, known maintenance history). However, the high miles make me pause as I intend to use it for a daily commuter. Nice that the TCGs and vanos were done, but I’d soon be at 200k with my commute...

[Chamberlin]

If you're going to pile on the miles anyway, why not start off with a reasonably high mileage, but well sorted car and just enjoy the car? To me, I'd only be after a low mileage car, if I was going to keep it a low mileage investment/collector/carshow car.

[Twistytee]

It’s mostly a concern with the longevity of the ZF 5hp24. While I’m not looking for an uber low mile garage queen, I’m more likely to run into auto tranny problems on a car pushing 200k than one <100k. Grant it this is difficult to predict and depends on a lot of factors including drivng style and maintenance, but the main pressure valves do wear with age and mileage.

[Chris V]

Do a BG flush and the trans should be good for another 150k miles. I'm only selling because I'm getting my old Volt back to commute with and I have another BMW (330ci ZHP convertible) for weekend use. I don't want to see it deteriorate from sitting, which it will likely do a lot now.

But yeah, these cars can scare off a lot of people.

[Chamberlin]

It’s mostly a concern with the longevity of the ZF 5hp24. While I’m not looking for an uber low mile garage queen, I’m more likely to run into auto tranny problems on a car pushing 200k than one <100k. Grant it this is difficult to predict and depends on a lot of factors including drivng style and maintenance, but the main pressure valves do wear with age and mileage.

Twistyee, if that's your real concern, I have to tell you that the ZF5HP24 is a *fantastic* transmission and if taken care of will be the least of your worries on an E38. I'm not a full-on transmission expert, and I've never been into the top end of these gear boxes, but I do have a good bit of experience with the valve bodies and overall understanding of the weak points on this very common ZF box. Lots of spares and spare parts and rebuild kits out there too.

To Chis V, it's not as simple as just a BG flush and you're good to go, but in many cases that will help tremendously. The question to you is, have *you* ever done the transmission filter and flush on your car? If so, when? If not, I'd be somewhat concerned, as you apparently have done some engine performance mods, and from that, I assume you like to drive in a spirited manner. Any knowledge of the P.O. doing tranny fluid changes and at what mileage? Ignore the lifetime fill sticker on the transmission pan, and change the fluid and filter every 60K, period.

One of the biggest failure points in these transmissions is the hydraulic pressure regulator design, which over time can score the P.R. bore and allow high pressure fluid to go where it shouldn't. If you ever had heard of a 5HP24 fractured A clutch drum, it's not the weak drum that was at fault, it was the pressure regulator that caused the damage. I have successfully rebuilt two valve bodies using the TransGo updated pressure regulator kit (new design with scarf rings that seal properly even on a worn bore: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Transgo-5HP...4/112317082443). If your bore is really bad, you can just order a whole refurbed valve body from Sonnax (they also sell new oversized regulator kits, and even boring kits, not for the faint of heart though). https://www.sonnax.com/units/433-zf5hp24

Other problems in the 5HP24, the F clutch piston losing its bonded seal, or a cracked F circuit on the lower front valve body causing problems with reverse, or even more rare, the bushings on the sun wheel shaft on the C clutch (also affects reverse). You could also have a bad input or output speed sensor (easy fixes), or a bad solenoid or two (very rare) which are also easy fixes. There are other check balls and other small seals that can be problematic on the valve body, but it's fairly rare, and that's what rebuild kits are for.

Bottom line, if the hydraulic control section of this transmission is well taken care of, and there has been regular fluid and filter changes throughout the transmission's life, there's a VERY good chance the top end of the transmission is in fine shape for the long haul. If I buy another E38, the first thing I will do is overhaul the valve body, update the P.R. and flush and fill, with a fluid additive (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

Here are some pictures from my valve body work, which on the 2000, completely cured the major transmission problems I was having. On the 2001, I did it as preventative; it was running great before, and had even better shifting afterward.

[Twistytee]

If I’m honest with myself, a 17 y/o BMW V8 is not a practical choice for a DD. With proper preventative maintenance, their early straight 6 designs are darn near bullet proof, are easy to work on, and can handle regular commute duty quite admirably. I know because I DD my ‘94 E36 now and I’ve turned just about every bolt and fastener on the car. But it’s small, a bit slow (M50 convertible), and not great with passengers. For me, the E38 strikes the right balance of classic BMW styling, comfort & convenience, and performance. But it has its known weak points which include the TCGs (age and heat cycles) and the auto tranny (infrequent maintenance/pressure regulator & valve body wear). I won’t rehash the lifetime fluid prescription by BMW, but suffice it to say many of these cars never had regular fluid and filter changes. It wasn’t until problems crept up that owners started realizing these trannies need more frequent service - some would argue fluid/filter changes every 40k is prudent. Buying a low owner car with a full stack of maintenance records helps to mitigate the odds of experiencing severe engine or transmission issues, but it doesn’t eliminate the risk. I’d just prefer to enter ownership at a lower mileage point and minimize my odds for a rebuild job. And unfortunately I have limited garage space so the e38 needs to be more than an occasional use vehicle.

[Chamberlin]

If I’m honest with myself, a 17 y/o BMW V8 is not a practical choice for a DD. With proper preventative maintenance, their early straight 6 designs are darn near bullet proof, are easy to work on, and can handle regular commute duty quite admirably.

Agreed, and that's why I daily a 2001 E53 X5 3.0 Sport and a 2002 E39 525i Sport 5 speed. An E38 is certainly a daily driver possibility, but it would take a deeper monetary and time commitment. I have 5 cars to take care of (6 with my wife's X1), so an E38 would definitely be a weekend show car and not a DD. If you're going to go for it though, a well maintained E38 is a great place to start. But you'd be a fool to think it's not going to need *something* on a regular basis. Like you said, 17 year old BMW V8.

[Chris V]

Mine has been my daily driver for the past three years and only needed about $500 in repairs in all that time (window regulator, expansion tank, rear wheel well liners and a couple bulbs). My previous E38 (a '98 iL) was a daily driver for 5 years and only needed about a grand in repairs over a 5 year span. I paid more for well maintained, higher mileage models with all preventative maintenance done and they have served me well. I fully endorse a well kept E38 as a daily driver, other than the fuel mileage (Which is really the only reason I'm selling mine to get my Volt back). They don't have to be money pits.

In my case, the PO was a BMW tech and BMW club member I knew that was fanatical about doing services when needed, and had done all the major stuff, as well as a few of the mods (like the M60 intake when doing the TCGs and Valley Pan gasket). So when I bought it at 150k miles, it was like new under the hood.

[clarkitect]

Mine has been my daily driver for the past three years and only needed about $500 in repairs in all that time (window regulator, expansion tank, rear wheel well liners and a couple bulbs). My previous E38 (a '98 iL) was a daily driver for 5 years and only needed about a grand in repairs over a 5 year span. I paid more for well maintained, higher mileage models with all preventative maintenance done and they have served me well. I fully endorse a well kept E38 as a daily driver, other than the fuel mileage (Which is really the only reason I'm selling mine to get my Volt back). They don't have to be money pits.

In my case, the PO was a BMW tech and BMW club member I knew that was fanatical about doing services when needed, and had done all the major stuff, as well as a few of the mods (like the M60 intake when doing the TCGs and Valley Pan gasket). So when I bought it at 150k miles, it was like new under the hood.

I love your car and want it. If I could jump on in right now I'd be flying to BWI and pick that bad boy up and bring it to VT. I'd need to clear out some space first though.

[EnVe46]

I’m also in the market for a sport and cos dieting Chrisv and the silver one posted inCraigslist previously, came across it in my own search.

The fact Chrisv is on here, is well documented with a caring owner is highly appealing but there’s also something about a silver E38 or E39 sport that looks so damn good.

Separate question, would anyone think about buying one without a PPI? Kinda nerve racking to me as every bmw I’ve bought including my E90 M3 I wouldn’t even bother without doing one but for a 5k mike car with good pics, is it even worth it?

[Chris V]

A PPI is always a good idea, even if it's really only telling you what's wrong with it right now and not what will happen in a month. It'll give you an idea of overall condition. *I* don't usually do a PPI because after 40 years of it and owning over 130 cars, I'm able to get a pretty good idea of condition and areas that will need addressing in an initial walk around and drive. But it's a great suggestion for the more casual enthusiast and for a long distance car where you want to know before you make the trip. Hard part is finding a qualified person/shop to do the PPI when looking at a car long distance.

[EnVe46]

A PPI is always a good idea, even if it's really only telling you what's wrong with it right now and not what will happen in a month. It'll give you an idea of overall condition. *I* don't usually do a PPI because after 40 years of it and owning over 130 cars, I'm able to get a pretty good idea of condition and areas that will need addressing in an initial walk around and drive. But it's a great suggestion for the more casual enthusiast and for a long distance car where you want to know before you make the trip. Hard part is finding a qualified person/shop to do the PPI when looking at a car long distance.

Thats the thing as well. I honestly wouldn't hesitate to buy your car without a PPI. I feel when buying from an enthusiast at this level of price point, you're buying the person as well as the car. That said, the silver one Im also considering, he said he's to busy to take it someone but encourages me to come look at it. Sent me numerous pics but says its a $5500 car not a $50000, which to me doesn't matter, I just want to know what Im buying. Not trying to beat anyone up on their asking price but it'd be nice to know if it needs a control arm or center link etc...

[clarkitect]

BMW dealer will do a very thorough PPI. Not suggesting anyone get work done there, but they will pick the car apart. You can take or leave what they tell you, but you'll know.

[Twistytee]

Agreed, and that's why I daily a 2001 E53 X5 3.0 Sport and a 2002 E39 525i Sport 5 speed. An E38 is certainly a daily driver possibility, but it would take a deeper monetary and time commitment. I have 5 cars to take care of (6 with my wife's X1), so an E38 would definitely be a weekend show car and not a DD. If you're going to go for it though, a well maintained E38 is a great place to start. But you'd be a fool to think it's not going to need *something* on a regular basis. Like you said, 17 year old BMW V8.

Thanks for everyone's help/suggestions. I ended up buying a relatively low mile '03 530i Sport 5MT. I still love the body lines on the E38, but decided the inline six was better suited to my DD needs, and finding a manual car was an added bonus.

[Chamberlin]

Thanks for everyone's help/suggestions. I ended up buying a relatively low mile '03 530i Sport 5MT. I still love the body lines on the E38, but decided the inline six was better suited to my DD needs, and finding a manual car was an added bonus.

Congrats! I actually went and looked at a 2003 5spd sport in Topaz Blue last weekend myself. I had a 2001 530i sport manual last year and even with 211k miles, it was still a strong runner. I think you've made a great choice--now pics!

[SpeedyE38]

What would a 2001 E38 silver w/50K miles be worth?

[Chamberlin]

What would a 2001 E38 silver w/50K miles be worth?

If it's a sport model and in excellent original condition with no "history", then I'd say $7500-$9000. Color will hold it back unfortunately. What color silver is it exactly? Maybe it's not the usual Titanium silver. And is the interior black or light grey? Throw the last 7 digits of the VIN up so we can see the build sheet and build date for any other interesting facts.