Lower Timing Chain Cover Removal

[Jerry Scholder]

Hi everyone: (Chris)
Recently completed all steps of Besian Procedure involving replacement of timing chain guides on 2001 E38 740i. Using a cheap continuity tester with no audible signal I followed all instructions to the letter (turned ccw to the hard stop) and tested the continuity and was given a variety of numbers continuing changing with no number remaining the same but lower numbers appearing over a period of a few seconds. Is this sufficient to determine there is continuity? Pass side lower cover bolts (3) are not fitting; all will not seat properly into engine, (too long). I did label each bolt, but may have made a mistake along the way, so will get new bolts. Did not rotate the crankshaft after re-timing the engine the second time; first time showed no problems with turning, and no changes were made to tension of chain. There was some question whether I was supposed to leave the vanos solenoids in throughout the timing process, but I concluded it wasn't necessary.
Why is it the Sensor Wheel behind the hex nut has to be kept stable by the special tool when tightening the hex nut to 30 ft lbs? Before placing the special tool on the Sensor Wheel, doesn't the wheel have to be adjusted to fit the tool on it? Why is it important not to move before tightening hex nut? When does the zip tie come off and what is the best way to remove it? Thanks for any replies.

[MauiM3Mania]

Merged threads.

[MauiM3Mania]

Jerry, we ask again that you do not start a NEW SUBJECT when you have questions/information to add to your existing discussion of the same topic. Post your new questions/thoughts as a REPLY to the existing thread.

Doing otherwise makes it difficult for everyone that is trying to follow the discussion, including those offering assistance as well as members who later are looking to gather information. The bits and pieces of discussion spread throughout the forum would be without value.

For the techs to assist you with your problem, you are asking them to track down the previous discussion and details. How about you being the one that puts out the effort to locate the discussion? Then just hit the REPLY button, how hard is that?

[bmwdirtracer]

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/

These are the official factory directions, diagrams, etc., for your car, Jerry.

As for bolt length, first: make sure that you install all bolts for any item, before tightening any of them. Second: when you engage the first thread or two of any timing cover-like item, you should be seeing about half an inch of exposed bolt. If you're seeing more than that, or less than 1/4 inch, it's the wrong bolt.

I'm not quite sure what your question means, about the hex nut and the sensor wheel and the locking tool. I've never had to question the procedure; I just follow it carefully. I'd have to wonder if instructions to "stabilize the special tool" indicate a lesser quality tool?

WHAT ZIP TIE ? There's no zip tie involved that I know about/

[Jerry Scholder]

Jerry, we ask again that you do not start a NEW SUBJECT when you have questions/information to add to your existing discussion of the same topic. Post your new questions/thoughts as a REPLY to the existing thread.

Doing otherwise makes it difficult for everyone that is trying to follow the discussion, including those offering assistance as well as members who later are looking to gather information. The bits and pieces of discussion spread throughout the forum would be without value.

For the techs to assist you with your problem, you are asking them to track down the previous discussion and details. How about you being the one that puts out the effort to locate the discussion? Then just hit the REPLY button, how hard is that?

I respectfully disagree with your assertion that my question was a part of a previous thread. When was the last time you saw anything regarding the re-assembly of a timing chain guide repair and replacement? Contrary to those that say "just reverse the steps", I say not so fast. There's lots of stuff about everything until you have to put it all together again. When I want to ask a question about "bolts", do I have to be required to put that under this same thread as well? One of the questions was about a continuity test; why can't this be listed under a separate thread? Another question concerned "bolts" and lastly there was a question about a procedure involving the Sensor Wheel. All of these questions do not necessarily come under the original thread, and by doing so deprives the reader from understanding the nature of the question which might be of interest to them. This particular rule is highly subjective as to being part of the existing discussion of the "same" topic. I believe it is not. When I'm re-assembling every part that was dis-assembled and run into additional questions, am I to only use this thread which has nothing to do with a water pump, power steering pump, hose placement, valve cover assembly, spark plugs, etc. etc. The question regarding the Sensor Wheel should have been a separate thread in itself as one of your best and brightest BMW Tech Experts decided to not answer a question concerning a procedure due to never having a problem with it. Understanding the reason for it provides a better understanding of what problems could result if the smallest thing is not done correctly. Still not sure how this General Mechanical Help is tied in with the E38 forum. When I tried to not duplicate threads in each forum and suggested someone from "General Mech Help" look at the thread in the E38 forum so I wouldn't "break the rules", I was informed if I couldn't explain it, then someone wasn't going looking for it in another forum. Fair enough. Help me out here; what previous discussion would the techs need to track down to answer my questions concerning "continuity", bolt placement, and Sensor Wheel alignment? Are these all considered to be part of Timing Chain Guide Replacement? I'm supposed to know this is part of your protocol when developing questions and putting them in a specific thread? Maybe I should just not bother the nice people in the "General Mech Help" section. I've had one nice member on the E38 forum complain to me that I made it difficult for him to follow my thread; I said I was sorry and I think we were both able to move on. Another member thought I should just have "Jerry's Car". Nice.
I'm sure there must be people out there that our doing much worse things to "intentionally" break your rules; I'm sorry to be keeping you from helping them.
Lastly, as for your implication of my lack of effort, I have put in at least 20 hours into looking at videos and DIY write-ups of a variety of topics and many of the videos are cheats and shortcuts edited to create the appearance of someone who is easily accomplishing a difficult task. I've taken 4x the amount of time to complete projects because I was willing to make a mistake and go back and do it over again. Don't talk to me about lack of effort.

[shadowpuck]

what's being suggested is just keep the information relevant to a job in one thread - be that the assembly or disassembly portion of the job. starting multiple threads becomes very difficult to track and search.

the first thing i did when i saw your most recent thread as a new post was go and dig up your old posts to try and reconstruct what was going on. unfortunately, i don't have much v8 or e38 experience so i didn't have anything to offer. still though, it made it difficult for me to figure out what was going on. had it been a reply to your post about this procedure - which is now merged, i could simply scroll up and down to read what was going on, as well as what suggestions had already been made.

[MauiM3Mania]

Jerry,

Everyone seems to understand the concept of NOT duplicating threads and splitting up discussions besides yourself. You have been asked by several moderators and members to stop, but you insist on being 'that guy'.

Please read RULES, linked at the top of each forum page. As stated within that page, if you feel the need to discuss how the forum is being run, send me a Private Message so it doesn't continue to be a distraction.

[bmwdirtracer]

Yeah, seriously Jerry. I'm personally not talking about "rules" here....we're all trying to HELP you. I work on UMPTEEN cars every week, I make careful notes, and keep them all in the same file, so that if SOMETHING comes up, I can quickly refer to previously gathered information. The two guys above are two of the most helpful and understanding guys I know...hell, they even put up with ME, and I'm a real ass sometimes.

And, really, I've personally offered to mail you my tools, on loan, for free.

Nobody here's making any money for trying to assist you, we're just trying to keep all our $#!+ in piles, so we can help more effectively.

The bad guys are over there >>>>>>>
We're the good guys.
Just play along with the program, will ya?
I'm as non-conformist as they come, but in certain circumstances, it's beneficial to allow the people who are trying to help you to play on a field where they're comfortable.
Help us help you. Don't keep telling us we're doing it incorrectly.

[Jerry Scholder]

In the interest of placating the moderators, I will hope someone will see this as a worthy thread addition; while installing lower cover I broke a bolt on the passenger side, first up from the dowel. Tried to remove, but due to A/C compressor in the way it was tough to get a straight on access to drill a hole straight in. I may have to move the compressor out of the way, but bolt is not coming out regardless; I would have to drill thru it and then what? Question: can I do without it and maybe use a dowel to provide some additional strength to the area? Any additional sealant that needs to be used? Other options? Tried to send some pictures but keep getting messages "exceeds forum quota by ......". First time I ran into that problem.

- - - Updated - - -

zip tie has to do with chain tensioning, (attached around guide rail to primary chain to keep tension on until upper cover is placed on and the chain tensioner bolt is replaced.

[Jerry Scholder]

Thanks for the TIS link.

[bmwdirtracer]

Generally, if you break off a bolt in a location like the timing cover, you need to remove the timing cover, and try to get a grip on it with a pair of vice grips. Trying to drill the bolt is almost always a bad idea, because (1) you can't hit it perfectly straight, especially to do an initial punch in the center of the bolt, and (2) the broken bolt will be uneven, so a punch will be nearly impossible, and (3) the bolt is steel, and everything around it is aluminum, so your drill will just keep running off into the aluminum surroundings, and ruining that.



The front clip (front end) of the E38 is removable, by the way. It will, however, entail evacuation of the a/c system. Hopefully you had that done at a shop before beginning the work?