Back in the E38 Game. Transmission Issues. $500 2001 740il Ressurection.

[capnmoench]

New player in the game. Ad on classifieds. I talked to him. No paperwork and it was done by someone that’s his landlord. I asked him if he could contact them for documentation. Very tempting, but I’m not touching it without proof of some sort. If I can get proof, maybe the car gods have shined down upon me. My luck isn’t this good for it to be legit. Stay tuned. Is the 96 pre facelift a direct swap? Anything different?

“I have a 1996 BMW 740il for sale needs some work has a Jasper transmission in it with a few weeks of driving then the head gaskets went bad on the engine and I got a imported engine and it's sitting in the engine bay ready to be bolted up just lost interest and don't have the time price obo or trade for nice mig welder set up or car trailer lmk what you got”

[951Dreams]

Is the 96 pre facelift a direct swap? Anything different?

The experts will chime in I hope, but from all I've read the answer is no. I think it will bolt up fine, but the computer/harnesses don't like to play nice from what I understand. There are several threads about this from the last few months, I'd look over those to get a better understanding.

[capnmoench]

From what I gather, the answer is “no” as well. It was too risky as well with no proof or documentation.

[purplecty]

For trans you want to stay within your year range which is late 96-98 and 99-01 and if its a 740i sport pkg it'll have the high stall TQ...

Sent from my SM-N910T3 using Tapatalk

[capnmoench]

For trans you want to stay within your year range which is late 96-98 and 99-01 and if its a 740i sport pkg it'll have the high stall TQ...

Sent from my SM-N910T3 using Tapatalk

Thanks. Yeah, I figured it out. I’ve been a bit on my own with this. It’s all good. I see a lot of the builds on here. My routine transmission rebuild isn’t going to be an S62 motor stuck in an E38. Hell, my hooptie isn’t even a sport. I still like it though. There was too much shadiness with that car. It even looked like it had been shot through the front bumper cover and headlight. Still getting to pulling the old one out. I want to see what’s wrong with it. New used bumper shows up for the E66 today. Will work that over the weekend. Then I’m doing some vacation and trimming all othe siding and painting the house. I will be working this as a side project.

[capnmoench]

Quick question: I has a 96’ 750il and I suspected the check ball issue before I traded it. I also did do it a disservice and put in a NAPA trans filter when it was acting up. It went well for a month before it started whining. On a side note, away from the “quick question” Everyone should whine about the whining and damage in a class action lawsuit. How many transmissions have died from people thinking they did the right thing? Aftermarket is supposed to copy the OEM standards. None of them do. They all collapse. Back to the “quick” question: Is there anything about checkballs in the 5HP24? All of the links from the “common e38 transmission” page go to the Xoutpost page and it says it’s under maintenance. Might just be broken links. I was trying to see where it was limited to.

I have one gear slippimg and one issue with a common torque converter lockup surging but no code for it. No codes in any driving condition except slipping in 2nd proven on in multiple ways by me. I can drive in M and any other gear and floor it till redline and no slip or message except in 2nd. Still trying to see if previous advice that it’s the A-clutch is even correct. I thought I saw it was E clutch in another thread, video, or forum. I never got any info on the solenoids at work for 2nd either. Does anyone know? Thanks.

[kouks]

just in case you wanted to rebuild the tranny from the bottom up, heres my thread from about 5 yrs ago. The trans is still running well with about 45,000 miles on it, however, the engine attached to it cracked a block at 211k miles. New engine is needed now.

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...light=my+5hp24

[capnmoench]

just in case you wanted to rebuild the tranny from the bottom up, heres my thread from about 5 yrs ago. The trans is still running well with about 45,000 miles on it, however, the engine attached to it cracked a block at 211k miles. New engine is needed now.

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...light=my+5hp24

Thanks for this. I remembered seeing a good tear down from a guy that had no special tools like me back when I had my 750il. I believe it was yours. I will be referring to it often. Unfortunately, my teardown is on the back burner still because my new trunk deck lid for the 750li was damaged in shipping. It’s either pay $600 to fix the $600 trunk or find another and force a refund on this one. If it weren’t for bad luck......

[capnmoench]

just in case you wanted to rebuild the tranny from the bottom up, heres my thread from about 5 yrs ago. The trans is still running well with about 45,000 miles on it, however, the engine attached to it cracked a block at 211k miles. New engine is needed now.

So, I was going to go into detail of the rebuild, but hell, your documentation is so good, I’ll mostly focus on fixing it and save the forum another rebuild thread. Sorry to hear about you block. How did It crack? Was there a mechanical issue, overheat, or did it just randomly decide it wanted to go back into the shop and get massaged by you again? That’s the risk I’m weighing. I have high miles. I’m looking to get another 50K-70K out of the car. If I can do that for $2000 total vehicle and parts cost, I’ve scored. It looks like the rebuild is doable, but detailed to do it right. I want to buy a VB rebuild kit and I want to try and focus on the channel or clutch that is giving me issues. This is a budget build on a budget buy. I’m no idiot though and I read through your entire thread. There were lots of unforeseen issues with the smallest of things you decided not to, or overlooked reworking. Think I will first get INPA working with this thing and look for more codes / errors and run some of the tests like you did after your rebuild. I had it working on my E66, then I used it on my dad’s E70 I found for him. Every time I have to shuffle files back and forth on this cracked version to get it to work on a different model. I doubt I will have the luck of plug and play on the E38, but that damn luck has to turn around sometime, right?

[kouks]

My entire trans rebuild was about $1500, that was 4 or 5 yrs ago. You will need a press. I used one at the auto hobby shop on the military base. If you don’t have a press I doubt you could do all the work. In one case I took the drum to a local trans shop and asked them to press in the spring and retaining rings and they did it for me, so that’s another option.

The $1500 cost included a trans rebuild kit with all the seals and papers, no steels, a VB rebuild kit, a rebuilt TC, and all the fluids. I also replaced the A drum with the one from another trans I had sitting around and the oil pump too. If I had to buy those they’d be a boy $100 each on eBay.

My my engine broke an exhaust valve in the 8 cylinder and the pressures caused one of the head bolts to strip and crack the block. Looking for a donor engine for that e38 now.

[capnmoench]

Right on. I do have a press, so that’s not an issue. I’m looking at $750 - $1000 for everything including steels, VB rebuild, TC. Price difference is whether I need the A-drum or not. Then whatever for fluid. I’m still not sold on using anything but Lifeguard 5 as much as I’d like to save money though. I’m actually in a bit of a situation like you with my other car having the transmission acting up a bit. I did the giubo disk, bridge and mech seal at 70K. I’m now at 141K and it’s not bad, but I can feel it acting up again. I might try an adaptation reset, but I have a feeling I have to dig into it again. I saw online the suggested interval to change that bridge seal was 70K or something to keep the ZF6 happy for many miles.

[kouks]

Replace the A drum with the updated version. Otherwise you're just asking for it.

[capnmoench]

Replace the A drum with the updated version. Otherwise you're just asking for it.

Copy that. So, the A-drum was never updated in the later post facelift models?

[kouks]

A drum on the facelift version of 5hp24 is the updated version. If you have that should be good. Just inspect the retaining ring area for any cracks or deformation.

[capnmoench]

Well, I’m allowed to ressurect my own thread right? I found a car that has a working transmission and what I was led to believe was 106K miles. Well, the tamper dot is on and the engine sounds like it runs on marbles. Transmission is smooth though and was $350 for the whole car. $850.

[capnmoench]

I was thinking of mashing files around on my laptop I had working for my newer cars to try and get the actual mileage on this one. Or what I read was that the higher mileage will be displayed with a disagree. Or I can ignore everything and swap the transmission. I was initially stoked I could swap the entire drivetrain or maybe swap cars that I was rebuilding, but the engine noise is pretty bad.

[capnmoench]

Anyone know if there’s a way to interrogate the LCM and the IKE to get the mileage using NCS or INPA? I saw this PA soft thing people have brought up, but I’d like to use what I have if it’s an option. Both cars have the rattle and from what I can gauge, this new one has the lower guide smoked. The first car only has a diesel at idle. Now I’m trying to decide whether to swap the entire drivetrain and go at these guides while the engine is out, or just swap the transmission.

[rslifkin]

I'd be tempted to compression test both engines. Whichever comes up better or has indications (other than timing chain guides) of being healthier (or if one is significantly lower mileage) should get new guides and go into the car.

[capnmoench]

Well, I got the transmission in from the other car. I have no idea if it’s history, but it was definitely out of the other car at one point. Two reverse torx had heads that were a little marred from wrenching and difficult to get a socket on. The fluid was new and RED. Appears to be Max Life. Changed all of the gaskets and filters and she drove like a champ.....for 3 days and about 120 miles. It may have been rebuilt, who knows. Then I saw a guy I know that has an e38 as well. We did some spirited back and forth on the freeway and I parked it for the night. Woke up the next morning and the engine started well. Then the valvetrain got louder, and louder, then a check engine light. Code P0011 Bank 1 intake. She runs fine, but I’m not driving it like that. New project I was going to tackle, but at a later date.

[capnmoench]

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Yes, a lot more access if you rip the front clip out. It only took 2 hours to access like that and that was taking my time.

[capnmoench]

Oh, as far as the light knocking other than the valvetrain noise, I did find 1-3 plugs only finger tight. Moving to the other side tomorrow.... maybe. I have to get the E66 aligned after full control arm and bearing replacement. I also got all of the trans valve body work, driveshaft support bearing and CV joints done on that one. Stay tuned for valve stem seals , valve cover seals and alternator bracket seal.

So, the issue I’m having now with the 740il is after doing some washing of the motor, I found some roller bearings that fell out of something onto the ground. 2 of them. They are about 3/8” long and 1/8” in diameter. I don’t really know anything they could have come out of, but I want to replace it. Perhaps it’s the A/C clutch. The pulley is wobbly on the compressor. Any ideas? I could post some pics when I get back to the project. Thanks!

[capnmoench]

Well, my problem may have been answered. From the previous owner: the water pump seized on the car at one point in time and shelled out.

[clarkitect]

What did you do with the a/c condenser with the front end off? Just move it to the side?

I just completed chain guides on an engine while it was on a stand. Need to swap it into my car now.

[capnmoench]

What did you do with the a/c condenser with the front end off? Just move it to the side?

I just completed chain guides on an engine while it was on a stand. Need to swap it into my car now.

Yes, I flexed the plastic support on the side where the lines come out to remove it. It’s meant to slide on and is trapped by the block where they mount. With a flat screwdriver was able to get the track above the groove there and move the whole thing to the left (if facing towards the car from the front) without breaking anything. Then you can gently move it over to the side.

[capnmoench]

What did you do with the a/c condenser with the front end off? Just move it to the side?

I just completed chain guides on an engine while it was on a stand. Need to swap it into my car now.

9A1F19CD-8599-41AF-94B3-48729E758484.jpg

It should give you plenty of room to install the engine. I wouldn’t do it like all of the videos or forums I’ve seen without the front end removed. It’s only like 6 bolts to the frame supports and a couple more above, the hood latches and a couple connectors. Move the latches to the side, keeping the cable attached without pulling them off. It really wasn’t much at all. The only tricky part was what you asked about the condenser support and getting that rail above the track without disconnecting anything.