Hey all (Edwin and Timm). Back on the Forum after a long stint because I just haven't needed any help lately. I just bought a 2001 740il. I have been using a 2007 750il for my daily for a few years now (love them 7s), but wanted to have a 3rd vehicle and a commuter for the wife since she's been driving an F350 to work for a couple years now. It's not a very economic thing. Car is clean with high miles (196K) and it's got a known transmission issue. I drove it to work yesterday and I'm getting the P0732 transmission code. I can make it do it around corners if I goose it into them. I can also prevent it gong into failsafe by taking it easy and driving civilized. She's slow to go into 3rd when I do it and it whips you back grabbing the gear. I can also get it to fail driving spiritedly in S 2. I get a shudder and can hold it hauling a hill in 2nd. It was in the transmission shop by the PO for a lock up solenoid, a fluid and filter change about 8 months ago that didn't resolve anything. I'm only out $500 into the car, so I think it's worth fixing. Absolutely everything works in the car. I do have the VANOS diesel sound at idle, so I think chains and guides are in order, but the PO had been running 10W30 and the cheapest oil available, so a proper weight oil change is in order first. Another thing that should be mentioned it it's only getting 20MPG and running rough at idle sometimes. My previous 96' e38 750li was getting 23. I think something is up with that. Also, the front control arms are toast since I just discovered he had been torquing them with weight off wheels. His comment was, "BMWs go through them fast. My 95' 740i went through three sets in 250K. This is the second set on this car". I think I could have a decent little commuter for cheap if I put some elbow grease and $ into it. I like my E66, but this thing is a blast to drive. Let's work through this transmission issue. I'm no stranger to a wrench and am willing to get my hands dirty. I did a mechatronics and bridge seal in the 750li to fix it's slipping and park failure. I was so disappointed in the last thread I read where the guy was talking about a solenoid change and asking how hard it was. It was recommended he not to bring it to the dealer because they won't break into the ZF and will just replace the entire transmission. He then updated that he found the problem because he went to the dealer and they said it was the whole transmission and it was an "internal thing going from 2nd to 3rd". Um yeah, the code already told you that. Ugh. DO people read the advice?
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Maybe a mod can move this to the e38 7 series forum. I forgot there were model specific groups.
Last edited by capnmoench; 06-27-2018 at 02:15 PM. Reason: Duplicate photo
Maybe not. I even PMed a mod. Hello? Echo.
I will move it to the E38 forum
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Thanks, shogun. That’s a name I remember from my E38 days too. So, I was looking at the ZF tech manual and the valve actuation for shifting. Looks like there’s MV1 that’s on in both 1st and 2nd. MV2 is on in 2nd and fully in control in 3rd. EDS solenoid 5 drops off there too. I would suspect those MV 2 and EDS5 solenoids to start with. Another note to add is at 70 mph it runs smooth then I feel a resistance then it smooths then slows. These happen about every 5-10 seconds. Closest thing I can compare the feeling to is a bearing that’s worn spinning freely then chattering. Think I’ll go drive it around again, simulate the RPM out of gear and make sure it wasn’t something under the hood. Hook me up with suggestions. This is a class project.
I’m not afraid to attempt a tear down of this transmission either. I was reading a thread on a Range Rover forum and I remember one I think on E38.org where it’s been done at home for ~$500 in parts. Of course, there is inflation since those were older threads.
The slight hesitation and 'slowing down' feeling every few seconds is the torque converter lock-up clutch - quite a common problem on pre-facelift models and detailed here:
https://www.meeknet.co.uk/E38/BMW_E3...dy_Misfire.htm
That won't be causing the problem in 2nd gear though, that could well require a valve-body cleaning to start with.
Last edited by Timm; 06-28-2018 at 01:54 PM.
Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i
My BMW Repair YouTube Channel
My Current 840ci Sport Individual
My Current 650ci Sport Individual
My E31 Repair and Information Website
My E38 Repair and Information Website
My E63/E64 Repair and Information Website
Chase - Heroes to a generation
Oh crap! I caught a guru! I went out and abused the car a bit just a few minutes ago. First $50 towards it went into the gas tank. I manually shifted a bit and I can get it to fail in 2 or 3 like 2nd is slipping. If getting on it hard in S 2, I can hear a squeal at the upper end as it shifts. It’s harder to get the failsafe prog in S 2. I can do it after a couple attempts because it’s hard to find a time with zero other vehicles so I’m not being a hazard, but it’s almost immediate in S 3. Good to know about the lockup. Makes sense, and now that you mention it, I’ve read that before. That solenoid was supposedly changed by a transmission shop that the PO brought it to.
Here are a couple videos I took.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=K9d5QG...ature=youtu.be
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=TyE_wv...ature=youtu.be
Is the lockup an issue on post facelift?
I'm afraid that is just a tired transmission! I would suspect that the friction material is on its last legs in the A clutch pack. A long shot would be to replace the pressure regulator, but, that behaves just like a manual clutch on its last legs.....
Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i
My BMW Repair YouTube Channel
My Current 840ci Sport Individual
My Current 650ci Sport Individual
My E31 Repair and Information Website
My E38 Repair and Information Website
My E63/E64 Repair and Information Website
Chase - Heroes to a generation
Thanks Timm. Yeah, I’m thinking it’s the clutch pack as well. Glad the video helped. Would the pressure regulator affect all gears? It shifts fine in everything else. Well, kinda. 1-2 is a little sharp at times. When it’s cold on first start up, there’s a delay of a couple seconds for it to go into gear. After the first shift it’s quick within a second from D to R and back.
Looks like I can get the drum for $100. This thing will be coming apart soon. I have some parts being shipped to me from getting rear ended in the E66 backing out of a parking spot. Trunk and will be repainting a bumper cover. Someone texting and not paying attention and flying into the parking lot out of nowhere. Of course, I’m at fault by the letter of the law because was backing out. I’m going to get that fixed first, then it’s on to the E38. Have you torn into the clutches on the 5HP24? Any special tools I should procure in the meantime?
Ok. That was just the drum. I can get the clutch pack and disks for $200 or a master rebuild kit with everything for $600. I might go that route. This thread shall be continued to resolution or failure. Or if it ends suddenly, I died. Send flowers.
Or I could find another transmission with 100K or under for $500. Risky.
I know it seems you might sorta be in an echo chamber, but I don't think I'm alone in saying I'm following your thread closely. See there are cars. Those are the engine, MANUAL transmission, rear end, brakes, steering, suspension, interior, etc... THEN there are automatic transmissions.... I work on CARS, those are not part of cars. Those are some evil masterminds plan to ensure world domination. I'm not sure what that plan is, or how it work, but that's what makes it so EVIL!!!
But seriously, I think only about 15% of car owners do their own work. I mean more than change the oil and brakes. Of that 15%, only about 5% will endeavor in rebuilding an automatic. Since the internet was born (Yes, I predate internet), I've watch time and time again transmission threads go silent aside from the 1 or 2 guys who are part of the 5%. Plus transmissions need "special" tools not everyone has. And the knowledge to know how to use them.
If I was in your shoes, and had a car I cared enough to fix (I always salvage my Fords..,er um cars, when the transmissions go out) I'd find a cheap working tranny to throw in, pull the busted one, and rebuild it in my spare time. I've always wanted to do it, just never had a car I cared enough about to have a spare transmission for. I don't know that a computer controlled 5 speed would be the best "starter" transmission in my case, but that's what I'd do. But keep in mind these are a pain to swap trannies in and get the computer to be happy. At least from all the treads I've seen about it.
Either way, I'm here for the journey, keep us posted!
2001 740iL "Silver Beauty"
1986 Porsche 951 "Silver Bullet"
1987 Porsche 944 NA Auto (rebuilding for my son's first car)
https://home.doonze.net/filepage.php <- BMW/Porsche doc's and files, work in progress
I’m very much a DIY type guy. I’m only into the car for $500 so I can play with it a bit. I really feel like taking on keeping the transmission and rebuilding it. From some posts and videos I’ve seen, it’s not the most complex thing ever built and the ZFs don’t seem to take much for special tools. This is off topic, but here are some photos from my last big DIY on another forum I regularly frequent. It’s not an automatic transmission, but I had some knowledge in the area and taught myself or asked for help on the rest. The feeling of accomplishment is a great one though. Just to show you I am a madman.
AD6F3E06-A2DC-4717-8741-920A2EAA63EB.jpegA6652090-85D7-4B69-B073-A3D22225DA4D.jpeg096427D4-5563-4BC3-8FDE-1A34BDACA201.jpeg8A157156-E3FB-4CEE-9062-28AAA9D49414.jpeg
You... Put a boat... On a boat?? Wicked cool!! I'm trying to imagine how that went down...
U: you know honey, I like our boat, but what it really needs is an upstairs...
Wife: upstairs? We ARE NOT going to buy a yacht!
U: no no, see I've been thinking. You known that big boat we have?
W: yeah....
U: and you know that smaller boat we have...?
W: uh huh.... I'm not liking thi.....
U: see what I'm going to do is put the little boat ON TOP of the bigger boat!!!!
W: ....
U: ...
W: your crazy!! Your going to wha....
U: here, hold my beer....
The pictures you posted follow.....
By the way... Are you, or are you closely related to, Florida Man???? LOL
But seriously, that's soooo cool.
Now I want to see you put a Miata on top of a 740iL...
W: it's a nice day, we should put the top down...
U: Hold on while I go upstairs.....
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
2001 740iL "Silver Beauty"
1986 Porsche 951 "Silver Bullet"
1987 Porsche 944 NA Auto (rebuilding for my son's first car)
https://home.doonze.net/filepage.php <- BMW/Porsche doc's and files, work in progress
Ha!, no. Not exactly. That was me lowering the top of the boat back onto the hull. It was another bargain buy. Not nearly as cheap as the $500 Bimmer, but what I thought was a good deal. Turns out all of the aft structure and the transom wood were rotten to the core. The fuel tank was also corroded and leaking. The best way in my opinion to access for repair was to split the upper cap from the lower hull. 5 months, all new structure, tank, wiring, pumps and $5K later, I had me a boat.
5 outings later, the outboard motor blew due to a faulty aftermarket oiler. Replaced that blown powerhead with a rebuilt one from another boat I found on Craigslist. It was 2/3 the price of a bare bones rebuilt block. I certainly didn’t score on the boat deal, but it’s definitely mine and I know it like the back of my hand.
Don’t worry, I kept the wife happy by remodeling the downstairs bathroom and recroom from tearing down to studs to building it back up at around the same time over the last 2 years. If projects were money, I’d be rich. Unfortunately it’s the opposite.
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Last edited by capnmoench; 06-29-2018 at 11:26 AM.
Back to the $550 Bimmer. I was on YouTube and there’s a guy that posts a lot of videos of rebuilding transmissions. He was doing a 5HP24 and someone was asking about 1-2 shifting and 2nd being weak or shifting late. Certainly sound similar to my problem. He suggested it may be the E clutch piston is cracked. Any thoughts?
New emissions, plates and sales tax. They tried to ding me on fair market value of the vehicle instead of sale value. Got out of it though. This is now the $700 Bimmer. I’m not going to include fuel in this count. I messed around with the shifting again. It’s definitely 2nd gear. In manual hold and liberal throttle application, she slips like a mofo. Weirdly, it’s hard to get the failsafe unless it’s trying to go to another gear.
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Getting some quotes for shipping a used transmission. Base price $550 on one from an 01’ 740i with 82K. Going to need fluid, gaskets, filter anyways, so that’s already up to $700. Rebuild kit is $550 and I’d just need time and fluid. That’s if in fact the 2nd gear slipping is an A-clutch wear issue. Clutch pistons for the other clutches are like $70.
Took the car to a couple towns for a weekend shopping trip today. The wife drove her new ride while I tried to “use the force” to feel the life and sickness of the transmission. I get the lockup in and out feeling in 3rd gear on a hill. Car pulls and lets go pulls and lets go. Not severely, but you can feel it. Could this be caused by a torque converter? I can’t get any slip in 3 manual. I can floor it till near redline from 30 mph and it’s solid. I will do some more research and try to find what makes it all tick. If anyone has any technical knowledge of what part or parts could be at fault to cause all of these symptoms, I’d love to hear those suggestions. I won’t really know until it comes apart, but it helps with which direction I focus most of my part hunting energy towards. Thanks.
Also, part of the shopping trip was to pick up a second floor jack and 2 more 6 ton jackstands. I like that they’re much taller. I never did hear back on shipping for the used transmission, but gauging freight, it’s going to be $200+. I can get a master rebuild kit with all clutches and steel for $400 and an A clutch drum for $120. Torque converter will be about $250, updated pressure regulator valve $50. Pricey for an old car either way. On a reinforcing note, my neighbor stopped by wanted to buy the car. I told him the issues, high mileage and he still said, “Well, if you decide you want to sell it. Call me first.” I told him he had to talk to the ol’ lady. She said, “No!” Guess that makes that decision easy for me. I was considering throwing out a number of say, $1500.
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I found this awesomeness online too: http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...r%20Manual.pdf
Last edited by capnmoench; 06-30-2018 at 08:56 PM.
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