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Thread: Stainless Steel Clutch line

  1. #1
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    Stainless Steel Clutch line

    Looking to replace my stock rubber clutch line.

    Has anyone used the ECS line? https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part.../009535ecs02a/

    How was the fit on install? Would you recommend it?

    What other brands should I be looking at?

    Mahalo! (thanks) Jeff

  2. #2
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    I installed a Rogue Engineering SS Clutch line and it was a perfect fit 4 years ago. Used Motive power bleeder and worked well. UUC also makes one, but not sure of the fit
    Last edited by redlinealley; 06-27-2018 at 06:34 AM.

  3. #3
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    I twisted off the hard line while I was trying to replace mine. Make sure you're securing the hard line while trying to undo the coupling.

  4. #4
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    I've been using the Rogue SS line for over a year now with no troubles (2000 Z3 M Coupe). The line itself fits well and was easy to install. Getting to the slave and bleeding different story.

  5. #5
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    Just installed the same one a few weeks ago, not hard to do, especially if you can get Tim to do it for you!! Really not hard at all, depending on mileage, you might consider replacing the slave cylinder while your in there. I wish I had replaced mine when we had it all apart. We replaced my clutch line as I was having difficulty getting in gear with clutch engaged. Replacing the line helped a lot but I can still feel the transmission engage the driveline when I begin putting the car in gear. My next step will be to replace the slave and pray it works.

    Good luck, plenty of tutorials on the site!!!

  6. #6
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    I replaced my line about 16 months ago, much better feel. However, you WILL need a Motive Euro Power Bleeder, and the bevauto clutch bleeder tool, and a couple flare nut wrenches (11mm and 14mm, i think). Some people can bench bleed. There is a post somewhere by Randy that tells how to do this pretty damn well. The key is getting the air out, not as easy as it sounds. The #1 rule is if you bleed and your clutch petal is not rock solid, like will not budge, you have air in your line. So do it again! lol https://www.bavauto.com/bmw-clutch-slave-bleed-tool-cbttool

    Last edited by bubbafett; 06-26-2018 at 08:20 PM.
    Built S52 w/Dinan ISR-3 kit, NickG Stage 2+ Tune, Dinan Vortech V2 Supercharger, Dinan Air to Air Intercooler, Dinan CAI, Porsche 803 HFM, Buldogge 6" crank pulley, Griptec 2.90" blower pulley, Eurosport UD pulleys, Dinan 3.38 Diff, Dinan front/rear Swaybars, Dinan springs, Koni Yellow Sport Struts, Ground Control end links, South Bend Clutch Stage 3 Organic, AASCO Light Weight Flywheel 18.5#, Zionsville Radiator & Oil Cooler, Riot Racing BBTB, Schrick Intake Manifold, 42# Injectors, Schrick cams 264/256, Forged Wiseco pistons 9.0 comp., Forged Eagle rods, Supertech dual valve springs & valves, VAC crank & bearings, Supersprint mufflers, Euro Z3 midpipe, Raceland euro headers, Walbro 255, Bevauto ignition coils, Vortech Mondo bypass, Bailey Diverter DV30, Ireland Rear Subframe Bushings, Mason Engineering Strut Brace, Mason Engineering Clutch Petal, Apex 18" EC-7 Wheels, Full Custom Sound System, two trunk lids (with & without OE spoiler), Hardtop, Trunk full of AK's...

  7. #7
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    You definitely don’t need a power bleeder. ��

    I install everything but leave the slave loose in the transmission. When all of the lines are tightened pull the slave out position the bleed valve straight up, loosen it.

    With your free hand slowly push the plunger in until it is almost bottomed out. Tighten the bleed valve and let the slave return to the extended position. Repeat until there are no bubbles.

    The system is gravity fed, and self bleeding if the slave cylinder has no air in it.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirtsquirt View Post
    The system is gravity fed, and self bleeding if the slave cylinder has no air in it.
    That's true. However, the bleed screw is located in a way that air is easy to get trapped in that corner, that is why there is dozens of pages on how to bleed it.
    Last edited by bubbafett; 06-26-2018 at 09:06 PM.
    Built S52 w/Dinan ISR-3 kit, NickG Stage 2+ Tune, Dinan Vortech V2 Supercharger, Dinan Air to Air Intercooler, Dinan CAI, Porsche 803 HFM, Buldogge 6" crank pulley, Griptec 2.90" blower pulley, Eurosport UD pulleys, Dinan 3.38 Diff, Dinan front/rear Swaybars, Dinan springs, Koni Yellow Sport Struts, Ground Control end links, South Bend Clutch Stage 3 Organic, AASCO Light Weight Flywheel 18.5#, Zionsville Radiator & Oil Cooler, Riot Racing BBTB, Schrick Intake Manifold, 42# Injectors, Schrick cams 264/256, Forged Wiseco pistons 9.0 comp., Forged Eagle rods, Supertech dual valve springs & valves, VAC crank & bearings, Supersprint mufflers, Euro Z3 midpipe, Raceland euro headers, Walbro 255, Bevauto ignition coils, Vortech Mondo bypass, Bailey Diverter DV30, Ireland Rear Subframe Bushings, Mason Engineering Strut Brace, Mason Engineering Clutch Petal, Apex 18" EC-7 Wheels, Full Custom Sound System, two trunk lids (with & without OE spoiler), Hardtop, Trunk full of AK's...

  9. #9
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    ...it depands
    UUC also makes the clutch line. I haven't had any leak since the install 5 years ago. And I took the easy way (Motive bleeder).

    If you need to replace the clutch line, I would also recomend inspecting the brake lines and replace them with SS as well so you can save on bleeding...
    2000 Z3 M Titanium Silver / Imola Red+Black Nappa
    2011 328i E92 Space Gray Metallic / Leder Dakota+Oyster
    Since 1987 12 euros / 2 kdms / 2 jdms
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  10. #10
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    Thank you everyone!

    I’m going to give the ECS a try. They have a sale and with shipping it will be less than the others.

    Fingers crossed install won’t be to bad or I should say the bleeding.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by bubbafett View Post
    That's true. However, the bleed screw is located in a way that air is easy to get trapped in that corner, that is why there is dozens of pages on how to bleed it.
    Which is why I outlined a simple, no frills way of bleeding that doesn’t require a helper or special equipment.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveG66 View Post
    We replaced my clutch line as I was having difficulty getting in gear with clutch engaged. Replacing the line helped a lot but I can still feel the transmission engage the driveline when I begin putting the car in gear. My next step will be to replace the slave and pray it works.
    I've replaced several clutch master cylinders on Z3's and E36es for this issue. Including my own car(s). I actually have an S54 roady right now that wouldn't even go into gear once it was hot. Replaced the master and the worn out clutch pedal, problem solved. Just something to think about.
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  13. #13
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    Tim, good to know, thanks. I'm going to try to get through the summer as it is, unless you'd advise against it. I've spent more time underneath the car than in the driver's seat.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveG66 View Post
    ... was having difficulty getting in gear with clutch engaged. Replacing the line helped a lot but I can still feel the transmission engage the driveline when I begin putting the car in gear. My next step will be to replace the slave and pray it works...
    Quote Originally Posted by Tim95M3 View Post
    I've replaced several clutch master cylinders on Z3's and E36es for this issue... Replaced the master and the worn out clutch pedal, problem solved...
    I have had a shop replace the clutch line with a stainless from UUC, bleed the clutch fluid and install a Mason pedal. The shifting is fine, however getting into Reverse or 1st from Neutral at a dead stop is usually not as smooth and easy as I would like.
    And on cold morning starts in the garage, I can feel the transmission trying to engage the driveline when I begin putting the car in Reverse. The resistance going into gear causes the car to move a fraction of an inch.
    Are these posts suggesting that I should replace the slave, or master, or both?
    Last edited by Vintage42; 06-29-2018 at 09:51 AM.
    BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vintage42 View Post
    Are these posts suggesting that I should replace the slave, or master, or both?
    Does your clutch engage right off the floor?
    96 320i Touring
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  16. #16
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    If it's as you describe when cold, but fine when hot, I would look first to air in the line. Air contracts when cold, thus possibly not moving the slave as far.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim95M3 View Post
    Does your clutch engage right off the floor?
    No, I think the clutch engages at a normal height off the floor.
    BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkr View Post
    Thank you everyone!

    I’m going to give the ECS a try. They have a sale and with shipping it will be less than the others.

    Fingers crossed install won’t be to bad or I should say the bleeding.

    This is another issue I need to address with my Roadie I had off the road for 4 years. A couple of years before I pulled it off the road, I replaced the slave and I think the master as well (IIRC). I'm pretty sure because I remember it being a PITA getting to it.

    So, following up here, how did you make out with the ECS line? Good thread, but like so many, it's left hanging without the follow up answering the original question. I will probably be ordering the line in the next week or so. Not sure if I'll install it during the Thanksgiving break (that depends upon how well my oil pan gasket replacement goes in my E46).

    And, to continue other side conversations, my clutch currently takes up RIGHT off the floor. Disengagement is OK when cold, but problematic when warm. At times, I've had the gearbox in gear and the clutch fully depressed and the car will move a little. Clearly some drag on the clutch. I'm hoping the line will solve this for me, given the master and slave have been replaced once already. If the line doesn't do it I guess I'll just have a potty mouth and readdress the master and slave.
    George Roffe
    98 M Roadster
    01 325iT


  19. #19
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    Your symptoms are exactly caused by a ballooning line. I had the same experience until I replaced it.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by z3forlife View Post
    Your symptoms are exactly caused by a ballooning line. I had the same experience until I replaced it.
    Outstanding! Thanks!
    George Roffe
    98 M Roadster
    01 325iT


  21. #21
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    One more question if I may....

    Rogue Engineering makes a big deal about the hard line they have at the end of the hose, and matching the factory line. Is this a big deal or a non-issue? The prices of ECS, UUC, and Rogue are all close enough that if it is a real issue, then Rogue it is, otherwise, I can order either the ECS or UUC from ECS along with some other parts and save on shipping.
    George Roffe
    98 M Roadster
    01 325iT


  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geo31 View Post
    ...Rogue Engineering makes a big deal about the hard line they have at the end of the hose, and matching the factory line. Is this a big deal or a non-issue?...
    As for me, I went with the less expensive option (like the one shown in the comparison from the site) 3-4 years ago. And it appears to be fine.

    But the Rogue Engineering one looks very impressive, and it certainly justifies the higher pricing in my mind.
    2000 Z3 M Titanium Silver / Imola Red+Black Nappa
    2011 328i E92 Space Gray Metallic / Leder Dakota+Oyster
    Since 1987 12 euros / 2 kdms / 2 jdms
    - Zach

  23. #23
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    I've used the Bimmerworld line (with CDV delete) without issue. I think the UUC line from ECS needs a separate CDV delete.

  24. #24
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    Didn't I read the CDV is not used on the M?

    All 4 are close enough in price that price is not an issue. OK, the ECS is $10 cheaper, but that is not an issue for me if one of the others is truly a better choice. My big question is related to Rogue making a big deal about the angles on the end of the line. Is that a big deal or something to more or less not worry about?

    Oh, and I was reading another thread that talked about a special tool to bench bleed the slave. Is it out of favor to bleed it by pressing the shaft against the bellhousing? That was the recommended method back when I replaced the slave.

    Sorry for all the noobish questions (definitely not a noob, but just back here after a 4 years absence), but I'm just trying to do my homework. I've got a lot of maintenance projects to do on both cars.
    George Roffe
    98 M Roadster
    01 325iT


  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geo31 View Post
    One more question if I may....

    Rogue Engineering makes a big deal about the hard line they have at the end of the hose, and matching the factory line. Is this a big deal or a non-issue? The prices of ECS, UUC, and Rogue are all close enough that if it is a real issue, then Rogue it is, otherwise, I can order either the ECS or UUC from ECS along with some other parts and save on shipping.
    I'm a Big Fan of this! Historically, I have always__when needed__replaced the clutch hose using the OE 3.0 hose (21 52 1 159 714) as it eliminates the additional short steel tube (potentially another fitting to leak, or seize) and bracket. The Rogue hose duplicates the 3.0 setup, and it's Teflon/braided stainless.

    My recommendation is to use the Rogue product.

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