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Thread: 83 320is - The Mulligan

  1. #26
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    Pre/post Challenge plans have always been somewhat of a driving force on what this car will eventually be. My 318is is fun in autocross, but I have been held back on how far I can prepare it since it's my daily driver. The e21 gives me the opportunity to build to the rule book and not worry about comfort. Unfortunately after reading the SCCA rule book for the SM class 300+ times, it looks like I'm limited on what can be removed for weight, and the minimum weight allowed for my displacement is 1959.2 pounds. I was hoping to just gut the whole car, but I don't think I want to jump in the Prepared class for now at least until a turbo is added. Rear seats, a/c system, stereo equipment, headliner, sunroof cassette and controls, passenger side gas tank, spare tire, etc. can be removed. I'm thinking lighter front seats, fiberglass bumpers, and the previously mentioned stuff should put me close to minimum weight. If I can put together a rear disc setup that gives a proper brake bias there could be some pounds shaved there since brakes are wide open for SM. I "believe" the m42 is slightly less in weight than the m10, but won't know officially until I pull the m10/trans to see. I'll weigh the new lawn battery to compare to my existing one, but I'd guess it's quite a few pounds lighter. All of this is strictly related to pre/post Challenge stuff, but things I need to consider when modifying so everything is reversible. I'm also considering a lighter weight set of 13" or 14" wheels to reduce unsprung weight and only run the 14" weaves for the Challenge.

    Anyway, my closing date on the house got bumped to the 13th. I couldn't sit around anymore, so I chose to do a little parts swapping and weight reduction. The hood and fender were swapped for the better ones I got from the local U Pull It. The front bumper and shocks were removed, and now I can take some time to fit the fiberglass one.

    The hood first. I plan to use the sheet metal from the bent up one to patch the floor pan or anything else that requires sheet metal.

    Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

    Then the fender.

    Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

    Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

    It's got a decent bump that I may or may not try to lessen later on.

    Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
    With all the bumper stuff removed it's got quite the ugly overbite.
    Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

    And then a pic of all the parts I just got in from FCP Euro and CarID. I've got one more shipment coming in from ECS Tuning.

    Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
    Last edited by captain awesome; 09-27-2018 at 09:40 AM.
    91 318is
    83 320is

  2. #27
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    So Sunday morning I came to the realization that I ordered B6 GTI struts, which happen to be the HD version, not the B8 sports I was intending. It looks like I could still use these, just they won't be an optimal performance choice for dampening. I'm hoping someone has some used B8s they want to part with, and I can just sell these off to stay flush on cost. Anyone.....??

    Anyway, Sunday I had to spend a few minutes putting the e21 nose back together. I move to the new casa in a few days, so it has to be road worthy. I figured it made sense to do a quick fit up of the motorsport bumper to get some visual motivation as well as planning the necessary modifications to make it a permanent fixture. The side "wings that meet the bumper will require a captive nut bracket epoxied in place, and the lower valence area will need some sort of brace. That's about it. Future plans include some sort of splitter, but at the moment it's on the back burner.








    I have a new set of 225 50 14 A7s rolling in today, with the plans of running them on my e30 this Sunday at the next SCCA autocross. It's my first time running on real race rubber, so I'm excited to see how well my times improve overall. These tires will probably be my "free" set if I can manage to not use them all next season, but I highly doubt that's how things will shake out. I really want to develop a set of 13x8 wheels and 225 45 13 A7s, specifically because I lose 10-25 pounds depending on which wheels I choose and drop 1" without upsetting suspension geometry. The possibility of a sticky tire wheel package weighing only 106 pounds makes me giddy since it's only 2 pounds heavier than the stock 13x5.5 wheel and tire package.


    Speaking of weight, I have been weighing everything I plan to take off, and everything that makes it's way back on with a cheap bathroom scale. There are some losses and tiny gains so far, but just with the front bumper stuff, rear seat, front seats, and the lawn battery I shed ~130.25 pounds. SM minimum weight is 1959.2 lbs for my motor size, and I think I can get into the 2200 range without too much fuss. If I can employ some patience before tearing the car apart, a trip to the local dump would give me a good starting place as I see stock weight ranging in the 2500-2600 depending on who you ask. Removing the carpet padding/floor tar, sunroof cassette, rear bumper, lighter flywheel, rear sway bar, driver side gas tank, and a lighter exhaust could get me in the right place. I think. Unfortunately the m42 weighs ~30 pounds more than the m10 from my research. With all the accessories minus the alternator removed, I think I can get back to less than m10 weight.
    91 318is
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  3. #28
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    Can you do ballast weight to be legal? If so I'd strip down far as can go. You'll end up with the rear being lighter. Then do something like this in the spare tire well to bring back into compliance of minimum weight when scale balancing the car back out.



    B61G1994-M.jpg
    88 M3
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  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by autox320 View Post
    Can you do ballast weight to be legal? If so I'd strip down far as can go. You'll end up with the rear being lighter. Then do something like this in the spare tire well to bring back into compliance of minimum weight when scale balancing the car back out.



    B61G1994-M.jpg
    Ballast are allowed in SM, however I can't remove carpet, door cards, lights, etc. If I go into XP everything will be pretty unlimited for weight loss. I think a fiberglass hood, fenders, sunroof lid, and trunk lid would shed quite a bit of weight. There is a place in the Czech Republic that has all of those for a reasonable price.

    http://www.pesch.cz/en/category/bmw/bmw-e21

    I can put lighter weight mirrors on but the surface area must be at least 15 sq. inches in reflective surface. Not sure what the stock ones weigh, but I think mine are electric?
    91 318is
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  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by captain awesome View Post
    Ballast are allowed in SM, however I can't remove carpet, door cards, lights, etc. If I go into XP everything will be pretty unlimited for weight loss. I think a fiberglass hood, fenders, sunroof lid, and trunk lid would shed quite a bit of weight. There is a place in the Czech Republic that has all of those for a reasonable price.

    http://www.pesch.cz/en/category/bmw/bmw-e21

    I can put lighter weight mirrors on but the surface area must be at least 15 sq. inches in reflective surface. Not sure what the stock ones weigh, but I think mine are electric?
    Yeah a generic number thought process is about like (again don't quote) just rough guess

    hood - 30 lbs
    fenders - 15 lbs
    sunroof lid maybe 10 lbs ; entire sunroof with cassette is 40 lbs!
    trunk lid is about 20 lbs

    mirrors man just buy some off amazon; golf cart mirrors are light!
    88 M3
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    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  6. #31
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    If go unlimited i'd ditch the complete doors (glass and all) that's about 100 lbs. Then put a nice 1.5" tube roll bar behind the seat and minimal of diagonals down for door protection. Would be still less weight adding back 40 lbs or so. Ltw seats etc lots can do to lose weight further if go this route.

    Front end chop would be a priority though if no rules since it's past the front axle makes a good difference.
    88 M3
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    91 318i
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    08 X3 3.0si

    "If it flys, floats, or f*cks, rent it!"

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by autox320 View Post
    Yeah a generic number thought process is about like (again don't quote) just rough guess

    hood - 30 lbs
    fenders - 15 lbs
    sunroof lid maybe 10 lbs ; entire sunroof with cassette is 40 lbs!
    trunk lid is about 20 lbs

    mirrors man just buy some off amazon; golf cart mirrors are light!
    I think to shed that much weight for around $500 would be well worth it. I'd like to get an average weight of each part they sell before committing, but I imagine it would at the very least be a 75% reduction even if it included some sort of structure for the hood and trunk. I know there may be some here in the states making the hood and trunk that may be cheaper, but I think this was the first place I saw fenders and doors.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by autox320 View Post
    If go unlimited i'd ditch the complete doors (glass and all) that's about 100 lbs. Then put a nice 1.5" tube roll bar behind the seat and minimal of diagonals down for door protection. Would be still less weight adding back 40 lbs or so. Ltw seats etc lots can do to lose weight further if go this route.

    Front end chop would be a priority though if no rules since it's past the front axle makes a good difference.
    I think giving SM a go next season will be my initial goal, and possibly XP if I'm able to secure a way to haul it to and from races. I did find that the Kirkey Pro Street seats weigh 11.9 lbs not including hardware or foam/seatcover.
    Last edited by captain awesome; 09-11-2018 at 12:22 PM.
    91 318is
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  8. #33
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    Last week I got my first set of Hoosier a7s in for $415 shipped in 225 50 14. I got them mounted up before moving into the new house Friday, and had enough time to still make it to the local SCCA autocross on Sunday.


    Daddy like!


    I'm hooked. So much so that I ordered another set for the same $415 shipped price so I have a backup set for the Challenge. I figure these are going to be toast by the time the Challenge rolls around and I want a set of fresh tires for that event. If they still have some in a month or two I may get a third set. From my math they knocked about 4 seconds off my time, with room for more I think.



    Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr



    Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr



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    Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr



    41992235_2325223454160511_3207281680284909568_o by hatchethairy, on Flickr
    91 318is
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  9. #34
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    I finally got the new garage sorted into a more usable space over the weekend, which means it's time to do work. I spent a little bit of time last night pulling the front seats, carpet, and a/c unit stuff so I could get a good look at the floor board rust. I weighed the Recaros with brackets, and they came in considerably heavier than I expected at 45 lbs ea. The Kirkey seats should help me drop about 60 lbs. The carpet and rubber material weighed in at 33 lbs, where the new lightweight stuff I found is 18oz per yard letting me drop about 30 lbs. The A/c evaporator, blower, and console stuff was another 15 lbs. I've still got the tar sound stuff to remove for another pound or two, but I'm betting overall from those items I'm losing at least 105 lbs. Tonight I plan to start removing the headliner and sunroof cartrige stuff. Once all of that's out it's time to patch my flinstone floors.

    Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

    The glovebox is going back in, but I'm probably going to try to make a fiberglass one that should be considerably lighter.

    Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

    Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

    And all the crustyness that lay beneath! The driver side needs quite a bit of metal put back, but I'll need to drop the fuel lines first. The passenger side is mainly by the jacking pad area and shouldn't be near as much work. I hate doing rust repair and sheet metal work. Hate. So that's what I'm going to tackle first so I can just rip the bandaid off and get it over with.

    Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

    Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

    Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

    Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
    91 318is
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  10. #35
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    Last night I started pulling the headliner to get a good look at the sunroof cassette. Hot damn! What did I get myself into? Looks like some is glued and some is welded, so it should require a bit of cutting and prying. I decided to pause on this until I could do a little research.

    So I started pulling the A/C lines, condenser, aux fan, etc. and weighed it all: 14.5 lbs plus the m42 A/C compressor and bracket at 17 lbs, then the m42 power steering pump at 4 lbs, and the fan clutch at 2.5 lbs. From what I understand the m42/trans weigh around 30 lbs more than the m10/trans. I'd like to think at this point I will have lost over 30 lbs, before even including what could be another 10 lbs from the flywheel swap, and 15 lbs from the battery. Unfortunately my garage is already a mess, I've run out of room to stack parts again, so it's time to assemble the wall mounted tire racks I bought and get another parts shelf so I can get back to work.
    91 318is
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  11. #36
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    Last night I jumped in with another easy parts removal task. The rear bumper including trim and shocks weighs 39 lbs! Trunk tools and carpet around 14 lbs, with another 27 lbs for the spare. Yesterday I did a bit of research on how to remove the sunroof, and it looked less daunting than the night before. Spent a few minutes drilling spot welds in a couple spots, and then an angle grinder to cut a few tabs. The glue pulls away pretty well, but around the lip of the front of the opening it stuck really well. Best option appeared to be to just cut around the lip with an angle grinder and follow up with a sawzall.

    SUCESS!

    Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

    Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

    Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

    Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

    So the full cassette including the lid weighs a lot less than what is commonly quoted. Like 6-10 plus pounds less than expected. Anyway, the whole assembly weighs 34 lbs and the lid itself weighs 7 lbs. I'm either going to gut the one I have or try to find a cheap fiberglass insert.
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  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by captain awesome View Post
    Last night I jumped in with another easy parts removal task. The rear bumper including trim and shocks weighs 39 lbs! Trunk tools and carpet around 14 lbs, with another 27 lbs for the spare. Yesterday I did a bit of research on how to remove the sunroof, and it looked less daunting than the night before. Spent a few minutes drilling spot welds in a couple spots, and then an angle grinder to cut a few tabs. The glue pulls away pretty well, but around the lip of the front of the opening it stuck really well. Best option appeared to be to just cut around the lip with an angle grinder and follow up with a sawzall.

    SUCESS!

    So the full cassette including the lid weighs a lot less than what is commonly quoted. Like 6-10 plus pounds less than expected. Anyway, the whole assembly weighs 34 lbs and the lid itself weighs 7 lbs. I'm either going to gut the one I have or try to find a cheap fiberglass insert.
    Nice! no turning back now keep going Yup the whole cassette is where the weight is over your head ie worse place on a great handling car. I used a hand held propane torch to keep the glue hot to pull the whole thing out easier. Far as covering can get fancy or yup just make a fiberglass panel, or even easiest just a piece of 3000 Aluminum (.040") rivet onto the roof. That's what we did using aluminum a lot of panel covers etc.

    Looking good now man.
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  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by autox320 View Post
    Nice! no turning back now keep going Yup the whole cassette is where the weight is over your head ie worse place on a great handling car. I used a hand held propane torch to keep the glue hot to pull the whole thing out easier. Far as covering can get fancy or yup just make a fiberglass panel, or even easiest just a piece of 3000 Aluminum (.040") rivet onto the roof. That's what we did using aluminum a lot of panel covers etc.

    Looking good now man.
    Damn. Should have thought of the heat thing. Oh well, just glad it's out. Riveting an aluminum panel is a good idea, but did you have any issue with the slight curve of the roof from keeping the panel flat? Caulk the seam from the inside to seal? I've also thought of doing a piece of lexan so it allow some light in and is fairly light on it's own.

    I think I've decided to build to XP rules and start removing more weight. At this point there aren't many SM cars that show up locally compared to XP, and I think I can be fairly competitive overall still. Once I go into turbo mode I'll have the power necessary to be top tier I think. Minimum weight without turbo is 1559.2 and with will be 1702.88.

    What weight is yours at currently?
    Last edited by captain awesome; 09-27-2018 at 11:17 AM.
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  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by captain awesome View Post
    Damn. Should have thought of the heat thing. Oh well, just glad it's out. Riveting an aluminum panel is a good idea, but did you have any issue with the slight curve of the roof from keeping the panel flat? Caulk the seam from the inside to seal? I've also thought of doing a piece of lexan so it allow some light in and is fairly light on it's own.

    I think I've decided to build to XP rules and start removing more weight. At this point there aren't many SM cars that show up locally compared to XP, and I think I can be fairly competitive overall still. Once I go into turbo mode I'll have the power necessary to be top tier I think. Minimum weight without turbo is 1559.2 and with will be 1702.88.

    What weight is yours at currently?

    Well we didn't exactly seal our anything actually on the car racecar. Just riveted over and shot when painted. If your like us the bigger weight is the nose of the car(anything over the axle line), followed by the entire doors. Moving the engine back far as possible helps a lot as well. Those are probably the main ones. It took all areas go get to 1743 lbs with full cage. Wouldn't even bother with a dash etc either. Just mount the cluster

    lbs/hp with a ltw turbo car would be a rocketship. Please build a cage to stay alive.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Smart cars are about 1600 lbs
    A guy in our club runs a completely chopped miata stock engine just cage no body only floor tub = 1600 lbs

    Yup ponder these lol
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  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by autox320 View Post
    Well we didn't exactly seal our anything actually on the car racecar. Just riveted over and shot when painted. If your like us the bigger weight is the nose of the car(anything over the axle line), followed by the entire doors. Moving the engine back far as possible helps a lot as well. Those are probably the main ones. It took all areas go get to 1743 lbs with full cage. Wouldn't even bother with a dash etc either. Just mount the cluster

    lbs/hp with a ltw turbo car would be a rocketship. Please build a cage to stay alive.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Smart cars are about 1600 lbs
    A guy in our club runs a completely chopped miata stock engine just cage no body only floor tub = 1600 lbs

    Yup ponder these lol
    I've been thinking on a 4 or 6 point cage, but they are spendy. I know I can make my own, just not ready to mess with it yet. For now I plan a simple harness bar as the car will be autocross only, but if I decide to do some lapping at a nearby track that will get installed beforehand. My actual weight goal is to be just at or slightly below 2k. I think that's a reasonable number that can be had without going too crazy. Keyword think. Next year if everything works out well with my "cheap" setup, I'll dump money into some fiberglass fenders, hood, and trunk lid. Those should drop a considerable amount of weight I think. Maybe even doors in fiberglass if funds allow.
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  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by captain awesome View Post
    I've been thinking on a 4 or 6 point cage, but they are spendy. I know I can make my own, just not ready to mess with it yet. For now I plan a simple harness bar as the car will be autocross only, but if I decide to do some lapping at a nearby track that will get installed beforehand. My actual weight goal is to be just at or slightly below 2k. I think that's a reasonable number that can be had without going too crazy. Keyword think. Next year if everything works out well with my "cheap" setup, I'll dump money into some fiberglass fenders, hood, and trunk lid. Those should drop a considerable amount of weight I think. Maybe even doors in fiberglass if funds allow.
    I think under 2k lbs is very reachable for what you want to do. Harness bar and autox only sure. All lexan windows drops some of the top end weight also, just keep the windshield if want. The 3000 Aluminum sheeting is about $40/(4x8)sheet. That's why used it instead of doors. Funny side note was last weekend I cross weighed it with Dad in the passenger seat (sandbags in driver seat). Figured see where it was for having a rider on lap days. He stepped out and the cross weights only changed 15 lbs. I rubbed my eyes went around pushed on the car front and rear in disbelief. Same. That's less than when consume fuel cause seats are centered of axles. Thought was neat. . . anyways. Keep on keeping on Sir. :o)
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  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by autox320 View Post
    I think under 2k lbs is very reachable for what you want to do. Harness bar and autox only sure. All lexan windows drops some of the top end weight also, just keep the windshield if want. The 3000 Aluminum sheeting is about $40/(4x8)sheet. That's why used it instead of doors. Funny side note was last weekend I cross weighed it with Dad in the passenger seat (sandbags in driver seat). Figured see where it was for having a rider on lap days. He stepped out and the cross weights only changed 15 lbs. I rubbed my eyes went around pushed on the car front and rear in disbelief. Same. That's less than when consume fuel cause seats are centered of axles. Thought was neat. . . anyways. Keep on keeping on Sir. :o)
    That's impressive with the cross weights. I've got a buddy with a nice set of scales, so hopefully I can make use of those when ready.

    Got another question for ya, I'm planning to ditch the driver side gas tank, did you ever do that? Just curious what people are doing to cap off the crossover hose/tube.
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  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by captain awesome View Post
    That's impressive with the cross weights. I've got a buddy with a nice set of scales, so hopefully I can make use of those when ready.

    Got another question for ya, I'm planning to ditch the driver side gas tank, did you ever do that? Just curious what people are doing to cap off the crossover hose/tube.
    Yes I've only the passenger side and a surge tank in the trunk. I had to wash out the tank and let dry, then welded a patch over the cross tube hole once cut out. Could plug it somehow with maybe tapping and use a large plug and gasohol sealer. I needed more room so trimmed it off. My driver side open tank area is where I ran the side exit exhaust and muffler.
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  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by autox320 View Post
    Yes I've only the passenger side and a surge tank in the trunk. I had to wash out the tank and let dry, then welded a patch over the cross tube hole once cut out. Could plug it somehow with maybe tapping and use a large plug and gasohol sealer. I needed more room so trimmed it off. My driver side open tank area is where I ran the side exit exhaust and muffler.
    Good idea on exhaust exit placement. I have a Flowtech muffler that was on closeout ordered. The whole cat back from the m42 is 51 lbs, and I'd like to remove half that weight if possible. I am going to put in a stainless resonator and remove the cats.

    From what I understand I can drop in an e30 fuel pump assembly into the e21 tank. Not sure if there is a proper return line, but I'm thinking that's a nice drop in solution that will cut out half of the e21 stuff that's not needed anymore with the m42. I'm running a Deatschwerks dw200 pump on my 318is and I'm happy with it. Fairly inexpensive, quiet, super reliable, and best of all good flow.
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  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by captain awesome View Post
    So the full cassette including the lid weighs a lot less than what is commonly quoted. Like 6-10 plus pounds less than expected. Anyway, the whole assembly weighs 34 lbs and the lid itself weighs 7 lbs. I'm either going to gut the one I have or try to find a cheap fiberglass insert.
    A e30 insert would work. The sunroofs are interchangeable between some e30s and e21s.

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thecatmilton View Post
    A e30 insert would work. The sunroofs are interchangeable between some e30s and e21s.
    I was thinking the same thing. Going to measure mine when I get a chance, unfortunately people want a lot more than I would have guessed.
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  22. #47
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    More parts removed, another 35 lbs lost. Going to start wire wheeling the floor pans this week, and start the process of welding in metal from the hood I pulled off. First I need to remove or drop the fuel lines directly where I need to cut it out.

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  23. #48
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    91 318is - 83 320is
    Some methodical cutting of the driver side floor pan has commenced. Unfortunately I'm making too much noise, so it will wait for the weekend. Instead of sitting on my thumbs I decided to go ahead and start prepping the m10/trans to be pulled. Tonight I'll disconnect the driveshaft and have everything out.

    Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

    Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

    Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

    Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

    Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
    91 318is
    83 320is

  24. #49
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Bentonville, AR USA
    Posts
    497
    My Cars
    91 318is - 83 320is
    Last week I was hoping to get the motor/trans pulled, but didn't quite make that happen. The driveshaft and exhaust were pulled, and then I noticed the K&N sticker on the airbox. I don't know how it's gone unnoticed up until then, but at least I get to throw a few bucks back in the budget, so that's nice. This Friday I have a vacation day scheduled so I can focus on patching the floor pans. All this week leading up to "patch day", I plan to focus on getting the drivetrain pulled, dropping the fuel tanks and lines, and generally anything necessary to aid in floor pan work. In a perfect world I would be dropping the m42 in place to fabricate motor mounts Friday afternoon, but I know that's not going to happen. I hate sheetmetal work, I'll be using flux core, and I really hate sheetmetal work. It's almost guaranteed I'll want to burn the car to the ground about 2 minutes into getting started.


    Saturday I did get to do about 30 minutes of laps in at the Tulsa Xtreme cart place. It was fun lapping some friends and the wife. After that session it had me plotting a 4 point cage for some HPDE at Hallett, and the wife assured me it made sense. It sure is nice to have a supportive wife.


    Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
    Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
    Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
    91 318is
    83 320is

  25. #50
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Bentonville, AR USA
    Posts
    497
    My Cars
    91 318is - 83 320is
    I made a mess last night. The m10/trans are out now and I've started pulling the flywheel stuff to see if I can manage to use it for a lightweight option for the m42 that's taking it's place. The internet says it should work, and yet it also says it can't. I should know for sure tonight, once I clean up my tools and mess. Either way I'll at least need a pressure plate because this one has some interesting wear marks. I'm hoping the throwout bearing from the m42 is still good, but my guess is that I'll need to order one to be on the safe side. I'll get some weights for everything later. There is some concern about the flywheel being on the small size. I've read that they will hold around 200(I think). I'll probably be in the 175 range with the smaller turbo I plan to run, so hoping it will be okay.



    Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

    Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

    Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

    Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

    Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

    Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

    Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr
    91 318is
    83 320is

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