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Thread: Right side vanos

  1. #1
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    Right side vanos

    I am having a issue with the venos bolt coming loose. We retighten it last night and I drove the car home for my cousin shop. This morning I fired it up to port in the driveway to wash it and notice that it wasn't running right once again so I shut it off. I pulled out the knock sensor stuck my finger in a hole and I could feel it that it came loose once again. Anybody have any of these issues before and how to fix it?

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  2. #2
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    What kind of torque wrench are you using?
    E85 fueled, Eaton m112 supercharged 4.5L M62TU, TTV racing flywheel, Spec stage 2+ clutch, 88c thermostat, eibach sway bars, wavetrac 3.15 lsd, m5 steering box, Quantum 340lph fuel pump, Dinan camber plates, some powerflex bushings, Supersprint headers, M5 cats, 2001 gas pedal upgrade and many other things done. all diy by me

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1999 540i m View Post
    What kind of torque wrench are you using?
    All snap on., I have it all apart once again. Going to clean the parts and try a couple drops of red lock tight. It's left hand thread. So why is it coming lose, I am thinking it happens when I shut the car off. Do you have any other Solutions? Thank you

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  4. #4
    JimLev's Avatar
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    Knock sensor??? You can't get at those unless you remove the intake manifold.
    The vanos isn't held in with a bolt, it screws in.
    Are you talking about the cam sensor?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Knock sensor??? You can't get at those unless you remove the intake manifold.
    The vanos isn't held in with a bolt, it screws in.
    Are you talking about the cam sensor?
    Yes, cam sensor

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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99Bimmer540 View Post
    Yes, cam sensor

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    So does the hex screw you screw in to lock the Vanos and then the nut locks everything in place? I'm trying to figure this issue out and if you give me any insight would be greatly appreciated. We tightened everything back up just as we did last night which the car ran perfect afterwards we did it just a little bit ago and now it backfired and won't start at all. Lost at this moment, think the Vanos hex screw stripped out?

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  7. #7
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    With the nut loose the center bolt will tighten the vanos unit to the cam.
    Then when that's done the nut will hold the trigger wheel in place.
    If either one was loose you'll need to retime the engine.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    With the nut loose the center bolt will tighten the vanos unit to the cam.
    Then when that's done the nut will hold the trigger wheel in place.
    If either one was loose you'll need to retime the engine.
    So in order to do that I have to tear the whole front of the motor apart right?

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  9. #9
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    Take off the bank2 upper timing cover, put the cam lock blocks on (crank at TDC), and just time that side.
    You may get lucky.

    Was the center torx bolt loose? If so you could have bent a few valves if you ran or tried to start the engine.
    Last edited by JimLev; 06-23-2018 at 07:14 PM. Reason: fix typo

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    Take off the bank2 upper timing cover, put the cam lock blocks on (crank at TDC), and just time that side.
    You may get lucky.

    Was the center torx bolt loose? If so you could have bent a few valves if you ran or tried to start the engine.
    What's the best way to go about tighten that Vino's bolt does the right side of the motor come apart by itself or does the whole thing come apart as a unit?

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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99Bimmer540 View Post
    What's the best way to go about tighten that Vino's bolt does the right side of the motor come apart by itself or does the whole thing come apart as a unit?

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    Take the upper timing covers off, would be the next step
    E85 fueled, Eaton m112 supercharged 4.5L M62TU, TTV racing flywheel, Spec stage 2+ clutch, 88c thermostat, eibach sway bars, wavetrac 3.15 lsd, m5 steering box, Quantum 340lph fuel pump, Dinan camber plates, some powerflex bushings, Supersprint headers, M5 cats, 2001 gas pedal upgrade and many other things done. all diy by me

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1999 540i m View Post
    Take the upper timing covers off, would be the next step
    It's a 99 so does the covers come off separately on each side right-left , I'm going to run a digital scope down each cylinder to make sure I didn't score none of the Pistons before I do anything.

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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99Bimmer540 View Post
    It's a 99 so does the covers come off separately on each side right-left , I'm going to run a digital scope down each cylinder to make sure I didn't score none of the Pistons before I do anything.

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    Yes, each cover comes off separately.
    Doubt you'll see anything with a boroscope. Fix the timing and then see if it starts. If it doesn't check the compression. If a few cylinders are real low you bent some valves.

  14. #14
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    Those cam bolts have to be really clean— if you put in oily bolts that'll affect the torque values. I also torque the intake cam bolts to 90 ft/lbs instead of the factory 81 ft/lbs spec, as I once had the issue of the bolt coming loose and had to redo the timing (thankfully nothing went bad otherwise).
    1995 525i 5-speed - Thread

  15. #15
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    Weird that the exhaust sprocket bolt get torqued more than the vanos (intake cam) bolt.
    I also torque the vanos bolt more too.

  16. #16
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    Funny second attempt for my timing while performing my guide install, I also noticed theVanos bolt seemed a bit loose, I also tightened it an additional 10 lbs of torque.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mannyf540 View Post
    Funny second attempt for my timing while performing my guide install, I also noticed theVanos bolt seemed a bit loose, I also tightened it an additional 10 lbs of torque.
    To give a update on the vanos situation, I found a 99 motor with 102,000 miles. Decided to just swap the motor..

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