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Thread: Retrofit "Sport" Button from M5 onto 530i? [Also Instrument Cluster Dead Pixels]

  1. #1
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    Retrofit "Sport" Button from M5 onto 530i? [Also Instrument Cluster Dead Pixels]

    Does anybody know if it's possible / if it would work to some how retrofit the sport button onto a 530i? Every time I try to google it, I just get a million results about the E60 5 series having a hidden sport mode...

    Also, I need to repair the instrument cluster pixels very badly, and I know I need the one large ribbon cable, but it's not just the OBC that's messed up, the mileage thing is like super dark and hard to read, is that a bulb that needs replacing or will the new ribbon cable fix that too?

    Also, currently my brake pedal pretty much stops halfway, and then if you push really hard past that, it's like pulling the handbrake up and it stops instantly, the ABS trifecta is happening at the same time too, is this the reason or do you guys think there might be an issue with the master cylinder / brake booster? The only ABS code I've got as well is for a brake pressure sensor at the moment.

    Thanks guys!
    Last edited by 1823alex; 06-21-2018 at 01:39 AM.

  2. #2
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    Can't say I've heard of that option. It's a completely different DME

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1823alex View Post
    Does anybody know if it's possible / if it would work to some how retrofit the sport button onto a 530i? Every time I try to google it, I just get a million results about the E60 5 series having a hidden sport mode...
    Not possible without a completely custom ECU tune. The sport button just modifies the throttle mapping on the M5, so if you do a Shark Injector tune on a 530i you have a basically permanent Sport mode.

    I have the Shark Injector tune, btw. If anyone is curious about the raw data and can figure out how to tune their own MS43 DME, I’m not opposed to sending the file along.

    Quote Originally Posted by 1823alex View Post
    Also, I need to repair the instrument cluster pixels very badly, and I know I need the one large ribbon cable, but it's not just the OBC that's messed up, the mileage thing is like super dark and hard to read, is that a bulb that needs replacing or will the new ribbon cable fix that too?
    Pixel repair is a PITA. Unless you have immense patience and the steady hands and eyesight of a watchmaker, I recommend having someone who has done the repair many times do it for you. Forum member blackknight530i runs a business called “Fixels” (check them out on Facebook).

    Quote Originally Posted by 1823alex View Post
    Also, currently my brake pedal pretty much stops halfway, and then if you push really hard past that, it's like pulling the handbrake up and it stops instantly, the ABS trifecta is happening at the same time too, is this the reason or do you guys think there might be an issue with the master cylinder / brake booster? The only ABS code I've got as well is for a brake pressure sensor at the moment.

    Thanks guys!
    Are you scanning with INPA (or similar), or a generic scanner? Brake pressure sensor failures are rare, but possible. But you need to do some digging (i.e., googling).
    Nate J.

    (oOO\ (|||)º(|||) /OOo)
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    (eŌō\ (||||)º(||||) / ōŌe)
    Alpineweiss III/Black Merino Full 03-26-2007 E60 M5 Manual (CX08265). 157,000+. Dead starter -_-

    RIP, Seabiscuit. Black Sapphire/Schwarz 03-11-2003 530iA Sport (CK39185). T-boned 03-01-2017 at 155,861mi.
    Take 2 "Otto" - Toledo Blue/Sandbeige 04-25-2002 530iA Sport (CH98032). Sold 11-10-2017 at 147,743mi.
    Take 3 "Manuel" - Toledo Blue/Grau 10-29-2001 530i5 Sport (CE92358). Sold 02-01-2019 at 217,600mi. I regret that. Build Log
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  4. #4
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    Generally, a hard to depress brake pedal is a sign that the brake booster has failed or is failing. Obviously, have a good look around your brake system to ensure that there are no imminent mechanical disasters. You could have a leaky brake hose somewhere, which is extremely dangerous.

    Also, check the area under the driver’s side cabin air filter housing for water and leaf debris. If the area where the brake booster sits gets filled with water because the drains are blocked with leaves and other rubbish, it can ruin the brake booster and even hydro lock the engine.
    Nate J.

    (oOO\ (|||)º(|||) /OOo)
    Titanium Silver/Black Nappa Full 07-18-2001 E39 M5 Heritage (BZ99672). 198,000mi+. Increasing daily. Engine rebuild thread.
    (eŌō\ (||||)º(||||) / ōŌe)
    Alpineweiss III/Black Merino Full 03-26-2007 E60 M5 Manual (CX08265). 157,000+. Dead starter -_-

    RIP, Seabiscuit. Black Sapphire/Schwarz 03-11-2003 530iA Sport (CK39185). T-boned 03-01-2017 at 155,861mi.
    Take 2 "Otto" - Toledo Blue/Sandbeige 04-25-2002 530iA Sport (CH98032). Sold 11-10-2017 at 147,743mi.
    Take 3 "Manuel" - Toledo Blue/Grau 10-29-2001 530i5 Sport (CE92358). Sold 02-01-2019 at 217,600mi. I regret that. Build Log
    Reliable P.O.S. - Green/gray 1995 Camry V6 LE. 270k mi. Sold for space.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by computiNATEor View Post
    Not possible without a completely custom ECU tune. The sport button just modifies the throttle mapping on the M5, so if you do a Shark Injector tune on a 530i you have a basically permanent Sport mode.

    I have the Shark Injector tune, btw. If anyone is curious about the raw data and can figure out how to tune their own MS43 DME, I’m not opposed to sending the file along.



    Pixel repair is a PITA. Unless you have immense patience and the steady hands and eyesight of a watchmaker, I recommend having someone who has done the repair many times do it for you. Forum member blackknight530i runs a business called “Fixels” (check them out on Facebook).

    > I'll probably try it myself cause I'm cheap.


    Are you scanning with INPA (or similar), or a generic scanner? Brake pressure sensor failures are rare, but possible. But you need to do some digging (i.e., googling).

    > I wasn't using INPA but I was using BMW Scanner 1.4.0 which gives you errors from each different ECU of the car and lets you code simple stuff. I cleared all the codes on it but wrote down what they were first, so I'll have to see if they come back. However prior to when I drove the car, I did open the brake fluid reservoir since I got another code for brake fluid level, and it was above max so I siphoned some of the brake fluid out and it looked pretty normal to me. Could the loss of pressurization cause that though? Cause wouldn't driving the car around the block after that fix the pressurization or does it take longer?
    Quote Originally Posted by computiNATEor View Post
    Generally, a hard to depress brake pedal is a sign that the brake booster has failed or is failing. Obviously, have a good look around your brake system to ensure that there are no imminent mechanical disasters. You could have a leaky brake hose somewhere, which is extremely dangerous.

    Also, check the area under the driver’s side cabin air filter housing for water and leaf debris. If the area where the brake booster sits gets filled with water because the drains are blocked with leaves and other rubbish, it can ruin the brake booster and even hydro lock the engine.
    I'll take a look around the brake booster / reservoir area later today and report back w/ pics if I see something.

  6. #6
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    Update: the ABS issue error went from the brake pressure sensor to "108 - SN Control" & still a steering angle sensor and "Watchdog"

    Anybody know what SN control is?

  7. #7
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    Nope. It would seem to be a rare code. However, do the standard wheel speed sensor check to make sure you don’t have a bad sensor causing problems.

    I’m not sure the hard brake pedal and ABS errors are exactly related or if they're two separate problems.

    The fluid level in the in the brake reservoir should be pretty high. As long as it’s not spilling over when the cap and level sensor are put in.

    Have you replaced any modules lately? That’s the only info I see online related to this error.

    You our can try to recalibrate the steering angle sensor with PASoft (aka BMW scanner 1.4)
    Nate J.

    (oOO\ (|||)º(|||) /OOo)
    Titanium Silver/Black Nappa Full 07-18-2001 E39 M5 Heritage (BZ99672). 198,000mi+. Increasing daily. Engine rebuild thread.
    (eŌō\ (||||)º(||||) / ōŌe)
    Alpineweiss III/Black Merino Full 03-26-2007 E60 M5 Manual (CX08265). 157,000+. Dead starter -_-

    RIP, Seabiscuit. Black Sapphire/Schwarz 03-11-2003 530iA Sport (CK39185). T-boned 03-01-2017 at 155,861mi.
    Take 2 "Otto" - Toledo Blue/Sandbeige 04-25-2002 530iA Sport (CH98032). Sold 11-10-2017 at 147,743mi.
    Take 3 "Manuel" - Toledo Blue/Grau 10-29-2001 530i5 Sport (CE92358). Sold 02-01-2019 at 217,600mi. I regret that. Build Log
    Reliable P.O.S. - Green/gray 1995 Camry V6 LE. 270k mi. Sold for space.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by computiNATEor View Post
    Nope. It would seem to be a rare code. However, do the standard wheel speed sensor check to make sure you don’t have a bad sensor causing problems.

    I’m not sure the hard brake pedal and ABS errors are exactly related or if they're two separate problems.

    The fluid level in the in the brake reservoir should be pretty high. As long as it’s not spilling over when the cap and level sensor are put in.

    Have you replaced any modules lately? That’s the only info I see online related to this error.

    You our can try to recalibrate the steering angle sensor with PASoft (aka BMW scanner 1.4)
    The fluid level was far past the "Max Fill Line" or whatever it was.

    Haven't replaced any modules, it's a brand new car (to me) and I'm the 3rd owner and the owner before me did pretty much 0 work to the car...

    How do I go about recalibrating the steering angle sensor? I do have that error as well. I don't have any wheel speed sensor errors, and every time I've had I've gotten an error on PASoft / BMW Scanner 1.4.0 on my 525i.

  9. #9
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    I thought there was a recalibrate button or something. Maybe that was in INPA.
    Nate J.

    (oOO\ (|||)º(|||) /OOo)
    Titanium Silver/Black Nappa Full 07-18-2001 E39 M5 Heritage (BZ99672). 198,000mi+. Increasing daily. Engine rebuild thread.
    (eŌō\ (||||)º(||||) / ōŌe)
    Alpineweiss III/Black Merino Full 03-26-2007 E60 M5 Manual (CX08265). 157,000+. Dead starter -_-

    RIP, Seabiscuit. Black Sapphire/Schwarz 03-11-2003 530iA Sport (CK39185). T-boned 03-01-2017 at 155,861mi.
    Take 2 "Otto" - Toledo Blue/Sandbeige 04-25-2002 530iA Sport (CH98032). Sold 11-10-2017 at 147,743mi.
    Take 3 "Manuel" - Toledo Blue/Grau 10-29-2001 530i5 Sport (CE92358). Sold 02-01-2019 at 217,600mi. I regret that. Build Log
    Reliable P.O.S. - Green/gray 1995 Camry V6 LE. 270k mi. Sold for space.

  10. #10
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    I had a bad steering angular sensor, potentiometer was worn out in the center position. My SnapOn SOLUS saw it, it let me reset it, but as soon as you turned the wheel to the right, it would go from 0, 1 degree, 3 degrees, 5 degrees.... it was shot, you reset it, as soon as you turn to the right, the traction control light lit up. Got a new sensor, all was good.
    Set the controls for the heart of the sun

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by computiNATEor View Post
    Not possible without a completely custom ECU tune. The sport button just modifies the throttle mapping on the M5, so if you do a Shark Injector tune on a 530i you have a basically permanent Sport mode.
    LOL. Yeah. The MS43 DME isn't going to have an input nor the code to process a sport-button-press. It has no way of knowing what a sport button is. The idea that you can install the button and have sport mode is pretty funny (sorry)..

    Would take some real assembly code hacking to create a sport-mode button for the MS43 DME.

    Quote Originally Posted by computiNATEor View Post
    I have the Shark Injector tune, btw. If anyone is curious about the raw data and can figure out how to tune their own MS43 DME, I’m not opposed to sending the file along.
    Pssst Hey Nate... "yer not supposed to say that out loud"

    (although with how he did the whole "SharkEdit" bait and switch vaporware, I have very little sympathy for Jim Conforti... Lotta guys bought Shart-Tunes back then based on idea it was coming out... Turner even sold USB cables to buyers of Shart-Tunes with the promise that "ShartEdit will be here soon!" for quite a while back in the day... then eventually had to let people know "errr no he's never gonna do that...")
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  12. #12
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    Install the button anyway, your butt dyno might make your brain think that you are in sport mode...
    Set the controls for the heart of the sun

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargrinder View Post
    LOL. Yeah. The MS43 DME isn't going to have an input nor the code to process a sport-button-press. It has no way of knowing what a sport button is. The idea that you can install the button and have sport mode is pretty funny (sorry)..

    Would take some real assembly code hacking to create a sport-mode button for the MS43 DME.

    Pssst Hey Nate... "yer not supposed to say that out loud"

    (although with how he did the whole "SharkEdit" bait and switch vaporware, I have very little sympathy for Jim Conforti... Lotta guys bought Shart-Tunes back then based on idea it was coming out... Turner even sold USB cables to buyers of Shart-Tunes with the promise that "ShartEdit will be here soon!" for quite a while back in the day... then eventually had to let people know "errr no he's never gonna do that...")
    Daniel F over on E46Fanatics is really working hard to create an actual tune for the MS43 cars that will allow things like ignition cut launch control, no lift shifting, and a whole bunch more. You can see where he’s at on MS43wiki.com. So who knows, it might be possible one day to have a functional Sport mode button.

    I can tell you exactly what a Shark tune does: it hurries the electronic throttle mapping, which is annoying in traffic. It adds timing to a dozen or so ignition timing maps, but it does so by simply scaling the maps up by 10% or so.

    And that’s it. The more aggressive throttle and increased timing (hence why 91 octane is required) do make the car feel significantly more torquey, but other than that, it’s not much of a tune.
    Nate J.

    (oOO\ (|||)º(|||) /OOo)
    Titanium Silver/Black Nappa Full 07-18-2001 E39 M5 Heritage (BZ99672). 198,000mi+. Increasing daily. Engine rebuild thread.
    (eŌō\ (||||)º(||||) / ōŌe)
    Alpineweiss III/Black Merino Full 03-26-2007 E60 M5 Manual (CX08265). 157,000+. Dead starter -_-

    RIP, Seabiscuit. Black Sapphire/Schwarz 03-11-2003 530iA Sport (CK39185). T-boned 03-01-2017 at 155,861mi.
    Take 2 "Otto" - Toledo Blue/Sandbeige 04-25-2002 530iA Sport (CH98032). Sold 11-10-2017 at 147,743mi.
    Take 3 "Manuel" - Toledo Blue/Grau 10-29-2001 530i5 Sport (CE92358). Sold 02-01-2019 at 217,600mi. I regret that. Build Log
    Reliable P.O.S. - Green/gray 1995 Camry V6 LE. 270k mi. Sold for space.

  14. #14
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    I suppose it could be done if you retrofitted an MS45... but that's a lot of effort for relatively little gain.

    You can do what some of the E46 guys do and connect the sport button to a sprint booster.
    Last edited by TerraPhantm; 06-22-2018 at 10:01 PM.

  15. #15
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    A guy in the northwest suburbs of Chicago sells the pixel repair cable on eBay. He also replaces them. Did mine while I waited. Took him about an hour and it is perfect. Yes, the mileage display is part of it. I didn’t want to risk having the cluster damaged or lost is shipping because that would be an incredible pain in the ass.

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    Where in the NW Subs? Can you pass along his info & how much does he charge?

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